dx3 upper cab clearance lights

[KRedburn]

Searched forum but did not find

need vendor and part number for dx3 clearance lights. Dynamax parts is closed at this time of day.

Any help would be great!

Thanks,

[KRedburn]

Another question.


how does one access the cabling for the clearance lights?

[halla]

Sorry, cant help with that. Hopefully someone will chime in.

[KRedburn]

Originally Posted by halla

Sorry, cant help with that. Hopefully someone will chime in.

With all the mods you have done Halla , I thought you might be the source for the clearance light part number.

Anyway, I may have found the part number and vendor.

I think it is

6 LED Freightliner Cascadia Cab Light - Amber LED Freightliner/Amber Lens

Part number 37554

vender is United Pacific




Maybe BC or someone at Dynamax can verify.

Still need answer to second post/question.

[halla]

That looks right, our Force HD has clear LED ones on the cabover. I put silicone around them every spring when I wax the cabover, they get a lot of wind and sun up there.

[Sunset beast]

Originally Posted by KRedburn

Another question.


how does one access the cabling for the clearance lights?

I was able to pull off the speakers covers their just Velcro on and then unscrew the speaker panel and pop it out, I had a hard time with the driver side but give you great access, Enjoy.
David

[bclemens]

I don't have access to BOM's at home...so it'll have to wait until Monday.

[KRedburn]

Originally Posted by Sunset beast

I was able to pull off the speakers covers their just Velcro on and then unscrew the speaker panel and pop it out, I had a hard time with the driver side but give you great access, Enjoy.
David

Tried going that route. My hands are 4 inches across. Speaker hole is around 3 inches. I could not see the lights from there.

I hope BC has another idea.

Brian, just a suggestion here. Coach construction is great but there needs to be serviceability in place also for all areas.

My center driver side light has no power to it. Center passenger is only half lit up. The light I show above is supposed to have a 10 year warranty.

[EdandShelley]

Following. Have several LEDs our in ours.

[Sunset beast]

Originally Posted by KRedburn

Tried going that route. My hands are 4 inches across. Speaker hole is around 3 inches. I could not see the lights from there.

I hope BC has another idea.

Brian, just a suggestion here. Coach construction is great but there needs to be serviceability in place also for all areas.

My center driver side light has no power to it. Center passenger is only half lit up. The light I show above is supposed to have a 10 year warranty.

Ken, the wood panel that the speaker is mounted in should have a screw in each corner so the entire panel can be removed. If I remember when I get home I’ll go up into the beast cave and get some pictures of what I have yours maybe different.

[bclemens]

What we buy today is a clean sense, amber LED. We get it from ABC Marketing. Their part number is 37555, but I am guessing many people build this.

The inner panels are removable...but also, if you pull the lens there should be enough wire to pull through the hole. Its' a surface mounted light.

[KRedburn]

Yes, pulling the light has some wire pigtail. Problem I have is the center left light has no power to it. So, my thinking is there is and issue in the wire bundle behind the upper cowling.

I was hoping that I would not have to remove "appearance" paneling but it appears that the ceiling panel will have to be removed. I have to find the location of the screws from the cabinetry to the ceiling and remove the trim strip between the ceiling panels. sigh!

I have been in contact with CJ (new west coast rep) with many questions.

Brian, that part number is the same as United Pacific's 5 light set.

[KRedburn]

I received this from Dynamax:

This was from engineering.

"I take it this unit is a Non-Cab Over unit, the D/S has a couple screws on top panel and a few screws under the fabric shelf. The P/S is in back of the TV, there are several screw in the Plywood panel that you take off and then you can get to the cleats top and bottom which you take out the screws and remove. Once cabinets are removed the panel can be taken off and get to the wiring to the lights.

It appears that the 3 cabinet assemblies need to be removed to get the ceiling panel out.

There is no TV in the overhead above the driver area. Mine is open. With storage cabinets 3 one large across front 2 on the sides. One has the satellite receiver, media distribution and antenna controls. The other is storage. Looks like a major project.

[KRedburn]

I am getting very frustrated with this issue.

Near as I can tell there are no screws in the top panel near the side cabinet backs. The panel at the seam with the next ceiling panel does not flex at all. Front cabinet top screws have been removed and the panel flexes there. Side cabinet on driver side has a glued floor and solid glued top under the appearance liner. There was one screw under the fabric in the center of the bottom. That subpanel is glued in.

Back to the center cabinet. two screws at the lower corners have not found any others. 3 screws on top each corner and center. Ceiling panel seems to be loose there.

I think the side cabinets need to be removed but it is not clear on how to get to the mounting clips referenced by engineering without breaking the cabinet due to it being glued.

Pictures:







Any suggestions from here guys?

[Jpheifer]

Originally Posted by KRedburn

I am getting very frustrated with this issue.

Near as I can tell there are no screws in the top panel near the side cabinet backs. The panel at the seam with the next ceiling panel does not flex at all. Front cabinet top screws have been removed and the panel flexes there. Side cabinet on driver side has a glued floor and solid glued top under the appearance liner. There was one screw under the fabric in the center of the bottom. That subpanel is glued in.

Back to the center cabinet. two screws at the lower corners have not found any others. 3 screws on top each corner and center. Ceiling panel seems to be loose there.

I think the side cabinets need to be removed but it is not clear on how to get to the mounting clips referenced by engineering without breaking the cabinet due to it being glued.

Pictures:

Attachment 224040

Attachment 224041

Attachment 224042

Any suggestions from here guys?

Have you removed a light from the outside ? As BC Suggested to see if you really need to remove all the inner cabinets and ceiling - if there is enough wire you could avoid all this and BC seems to be of the opinion that there should be enough excess to pull through the hole ( he is Usaually spot on !

[bclemens]

My suggestion is, don't take the ceiling panel off.

I am pretty sure taking the cabinet out and the front panels would be enough and certainly much easier. I'll get with Greg and see what he suggests.

[GTinsman]

I would definitely pull the lights from the outside first,removing all the cabinets is quite a process,by removing the lights from the outside you can check the wiring for any faults,plus if necessary,you could jump a couple wires from hole to hole,bypassing any breaks in the wiring.

[KRedburn]

I have pulled the light from the front outside. That is when I discovered that there was no power to that light. All others work.

Removing the cabinets is not possible due to the glued joints without breaking the cabinets to get to the "clips".

Wife has suggested that we just remove the existing speakers and replace with larger. Sounds like this will be easier solution. Put 6.5 in. speakers in and then I can access through those holes since I cannot reach thru a 2.5 inch opening.

Like I mentioned in past post. Serviceability has to be designed in not an after thought. this goes for all areas in the MH.

Anyway, it is what it is. I'll deal with it.

[Sunset beast]

Ken,
I see your front it a little different than mine I have a TV in the center and speaker on each side. Here’s a picture of how I can gain access behind the TV I removed a little Velcro in the corners were the screws are underneath not sure about your cabinets.
[ATTACH]

[KRedburn]

Sunset

Thanks for the photo.
I have no TV in front cabinets.
Front cabinets are closed backs.
Have been unable to remove any of the cabinets due to (near as I can tell) glued joints. Bottoms and tops will not come loose. Even after removing screws that were under the fabric inside.
I have received additional messages from engineering/tech support. They say that the upper ceiling has to be removed to gain access to the back of the clearance lights.
The ceiling panel is captured by the back edge of the side cabinets and the ceiling to wall molding. I am not going to tear apart a quarter of the interior to fix one clearance light.
Wife suggested installing bigger speakers in place of existing 2.5 inch ones.
Looking at putting in 2 ea 6.5 inch speakers that will allow a hand to get into the void behind the cab cap.
IMO there is/was a failure to consider serviceability of the clearance lights in units that have closed back cabinetry in the front.
Yes, the lights are surface mounts but the wire hole is smaller than my 3 yr old grand daughter's pinky so using a butt splice crimp is not an option in replacing any of these lights.
much less even repairing a wiring issue which is what I am dealing with.

I'll have it fixed by end of next week.

It is almost 5pm I need a beer