Dynamax Isata 3 turn signal problem

[Streetglider1]

I have only had my 2018 Dynamax Isata 3 for about 2 months. Tonight we were headed out for a nice weekend and 10 minutes into the drive I noticed my right turn signal camera would not turn off. When I pulled over to check it out I discovered that my right rear turn signal (2 circular led lights) remain lit (solid not flashing). They remain lit even when the vehicle is turned off. The right front turn signal flashes and the entire left front and back work as should. When you turn on the left turn signal the camera turns to the rear camera. When you turn off the left signal the camera go back to the right turn signal camera. To top it all off I cannot locate a fuse to pull to turn off the light. I hope I don’t have a dead battery in the morning. Other than a request for troubleshooting I am asking if this is something I should take to the RV dealer or the Mercedes dealer? Thanks for any help

[slimetime]

Had this happen to me last year, rain got into the connectors and caused signal feedback. Both my taillights would not shut off and rear camera was stuck on. Dealer replaced camera and connectors.

[Streetglider1]

Originally Posted by slimetime

Had this happen to me last year, rain got into the connectors and caused signal feedback. Both my taillights would not shut off and rear camera was stuck on. Dealer replaced camera and connectors.

Thanks for the quick reply. I finally gave up trying to troubleshoot and shut everything down and locked it with the key fob. I just looked out the window and the right light is off. Not sure if the battery has an auto shutoff timer. Hopefully it will fix itself. I wonder if others have expierienced this.

[bclemens]

It would be a Dynamax issue. We use a controller to handle the rear LED taillights as the Mercedes is only set up for incandescent. That controller can sometimes get a little goofy. What do you tow? That has been known to cause issues as well, if you are towing stuff that is incandescent it wants to overload the controller.

[milkman55]

Originally Posted by bclemens

It would be a Dynamax issue. We use a controller to handle the rear LED taillights as the Mercedes is only set up for incandescent. That controller can sometimes get a little goofy. What do you tow? That has been known to cause issues as well, if you are towing stuff that is incandescent it wants to overload the controller.

That would be good info to know BEFORE we setup the Toad. I bought a separate Blue Ox incandescent bulb kit for my CR-V because it was the simplest implementation that didn’t involve touching the factory wiring. So far no issues, but I could have bought an LED separate bulb system if I had known about this concern.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by milkman55

That would be good info to know BEFORE we setup the Toad. I bought a separate Blue Ox incandescent bulb kit for my CR-V because it was the simplest implementation that didn’t involve touching the factory wiring. So far no issues, but I could have bought an LED separate bulb system if I had known about this concern.

We agree. Nothing was said to us either and it doesn't appear to happen all the time. I think in most cases it is with lots of incandescents like a trailer. Where it might overload the rating. Could just be a bad controller.

[Streetglider1]

Originally Posted by bclemens

It would be a Dynamax issue. We use a controller to handle the rear LED taillights as the Mercedes is only set up for incandescent. That controller can sometimes get a little goofy. What do you tow? That has been known to cause issues as well, if you are towing stuff that is incandescent it wants to overload the controller.

Thank you for your reply. I was towing a 2018 Jeep Wrangler. It’s the new JL body style and I’m pretty sure it has led tail lights as well. Could you tell me where the controller is or what fuse controls it so I can get the rear light off or reset if this ever happens again and I’m not close to home?

[bclemens]

Controller is bundled up with an in-line fuse. Middle of the bumper area, up under the chassis.

[Streetglider1]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Controller is bundled up with an in-line fuse. Middle of the bumper area, up under the chassis.

Dumb question but I am assuming that’s the rear bumper since we are talking about the tail lights?

[scoval]

Had similar issue found out it was the pulse modulation box.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by Streetglider1

Dumb question but I am assuming that’s the rear bumper since we are talking about the tail lights?

Correct

[Streetglider1]

We went on our first long trip over the week of 4th of July. We were towing our new Jeep headed from Tennessee to Galveston Texas. We were pumped up and planned on Boondocking for the very first time on our way. We left Friday evening and when it started to get dark I turned on my lights which I had checked prior to leaving after attaching the Jeep. They came on but at some point after we entered Arkansas a trucker started blowing his horn at me and I soon discovered that I had no taillights on the Isata or the Jeep. The turn signal and brake lights worked but no taillights. When I pulled over I also noticed a steady, heavy drip from my fresh water tank. The lights would come on if I would shut them off for about 30 seconds and then turn them back on. They would turn off and on by themselves if I were driving slow and hitting the breaks or turn signals. I discovered that if I turned them off for about 30 seconds at a steady interstate speed they would stay on for about an hour before turning off. After arriving at the RV resort the next day I started checking out the water leak on the fresh water tank. It appears as if they somehow attached one of the load resistors that goes to the led lights directly to the plastic water tank and that is where it leaks from. As I drive the water travels all the wires. I drained the tank and was hoping that after a week in the Texas heat I would have better luck for my 14 hour trip back home. I did not travel with any water in the tank and decided I would test the taillights during the day light as I traveled because I can see the rear marker light. Sorry for the long story, but I’m frustrated and the taillights would still cut off after being on for about an hour. I can’t figure out how or why they attached the load resistor to the plastic water tank. Headed to the dealer this weekend. Has anybody else had a similar problem.

[bclemens]

Picture? Are you sure that is not a tank probe?

[bclemens]

PS. all of that is related to your original post. Did you not take it in to have the module replaced?

[Streetglider1]

Originally Posted by bclemens

PS. all of that is related to your original post. Did you not take it in to have the module replaced?

In your words the controller sometimes gets a little “goofy” so after it reset I was hoping it was a fluke. Trip for service at my dealer is a 2.5 hour drive and they are always covered up in work.
I’m pretty confident it’s a load resistor, all the sensors are on the other side of the tank. I wonder if the heat they create fused it to the side of the tank. There is a second one that is just free floating by its wires. I’ll get s picture tomorrow and post it.

[Streetglider1]

This is the picture and it is stuck to my fresh water tank, right where it leaks. There is another one that looks the same that is only held up by the wires attached to it.

[scoval]

Here we go again with pulse modulation,now the right back passenger side light stays on .Already replaced it once. Has anyone else had this problem after replacing the modulation box .What next?

[Streetglider1]

Originally Posted by scoval

Here we go again with pulse modulation,now the right back passenger side light stays on .Already replaced it once. Has anyone else had this problem after replacing the modulation box .What next?

Good morning Scoval. I was curious, were you towing a vehicle when this happened? I was both times I had my issues but never really drove any distance or at night without a vehicle in tow.

[scoval]

Are you still having the problem if not what was the fix .I already replaced the pulse modulation box

[Streetglider1]

Originally Posted by scoval

Are you still having the problem if not what was the fix .I already replaced the pulse modulation box

It’s at the dealer now. Will let you know what they do and if it works. Were you towing when your turn signal acted up?