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Old 10-18-2020, 03:35 PM   #21
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I upgraded my 2019 ISATA 3 last month. You may not need to upgrade your PD 4060 Converter/Inverter. I purchased the upgraded PD4060 LICSV as was recommended. However when I removed my original PD 4060, I discovered that there was a small dip switch on the motherboard labeled LI / AGM. I contacted Progressive Dynamics and they said that there was no difference between the PD 4060 with the Lithium switched on and the PD 4060 LICSV unit. I had already installed the PD 4060 LICSV so I now have an extra unit.
I also replaced the stock BIM and solenoid with the LI-BIM 225. The installation is a bit difficult due to the large diameter wires (2-0) and the small space. Be prepared to struggle with this a bit.

Finally, I installed the Victron Smartshunt 500amp/50mv to monitor SOC, etc. This unit is a must and works flawlessly.

I just returned from my first trip after the installation. We were on the road for 3 weeks and covered 2,500 miles. We camped mostly off grid. The Lithium batteries are a significant functional upgrade. I use CPAP with a heater/humidifier at night which draws up to 80 watts, and we commonly run the furnace at 54 degrees backup. We did not need to run the generator to charge the batteries and we were easily able to make it 2 nights before the SOC would get down to 20%. Also, the batteries do charge very quickly when plugged in or on generator power. They charge while driving as well, but a bit more slowly.

I live in a cold climate (NE Washington) but I do not use my Coach in the winter. Since the lithium batteries take 4 to 6 months to discharge and prefer to be stored in a partly discharged state (40- 60% DOD), I plan on installing a battery isolation switch and just disconnecting them for the November - March storage period. There is no need for heating the batteries while in storage. If for some reason charging is needed, I will warm them up above 32 degrees or pick a warm day.

I purchased two Safari UT 1300 105Ah LiFeP04 batteries from COSTCO on sale with lifetime warranty for $1,400. Highly recommend this upgrade..
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Old 10-18-2020, 03:49 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens View Post
We have had so many questions from people about upgrading. Many think you can just drop a couple of batteries in place of lead acid and its not so simple (at least not if you want to take full advantage).

So we did a little video explaining what goes into it.

PS. We oversimplified this by design as it is intended to just be a "primer"



Very usable explanation - thank for posting this
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Old 10-18-2020, 05:02 PM   #23
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Dynamax Lithium Battery Option (Video)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barch View Post
I upgraded my 2019 ISATA 3 last month. You may not need to upgrade your PD 4060 Converter/Inverter. I purchased the upgraded PD4060 LICSV as was recommended. However when I removed my original PD 4060, I discovered that there was a small dip switch on the motherboard labeled LI / AGM. I contacted Progressive Dynamics and they said that there was no difference between the PD 4060 with the Lithium switched on and the PD 4060 LICSV unit. I had already installed the PD 4060 LICSV so I now have an extra unit.

I also replaced the stock BIM and solenoid with the LI-BIM 225. The installation is a bit difficult due to the large diameter wires (2-0) and the small space. Be prepared to struggle with this a bit.



Finally, I installed the Victron Smartshunt 500amp/50mv to monitor SOC, etc. This unit is a must and works flawlessly.



I just returned from my first trip after the installation. We were on the road for 3 weeks and covered 2,500 miles. We camped mostly off grid. The Lithium batteries are a significant functional upgrade. I use CPAP with a heater/humidifier at night which draws up to 80 watts, and we commonly run the furnace at 54 degrees backup. We did not need to run the generator to charge the batteries and we were easily able to make it 2 nights before the SOC would get down to 20%. Also, the batteries do charge very quickly when plugged in or on generator power. They charge while driving as well, but a bit more slowly.



I live in a cold climate (NE Washington) but I do not use my Coach in the winter. Since the lithium batteries take 4 to 6 months to discharge and prefer to be stored in a partly discharged state (40- 60% DOD), I plan on installing a battery isolation switch and just disconnecting them for the November - March storage period. There is no need for heating the batteries while in storage. If for some reason charging is needed, I will warm them up above 32 degrees or pick a warm day.



I purchased two Safari UT 1300 105Ah LiFeP04 batteries from COSTCO on sale with lifetime warranty for $1,400. Highly recommend this upgrade..


I did the exact same thing. My 2018 Isata 4 did not have the switch, guess that’s the break year for lithium switch. Oh well you have a backup charger. Love the Lion batteries! Group 24 and more amp hours than the bigger lithium batteries. I really like the design of these batteries, prismatic cells!
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Old 10-19-2020, 12:29 PM   #24
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Can any one out there tell me if my 3500 Mercedes Sprinter 220 amp alternator is capable of charging lithium iron phosphate batteries?
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Old 10-19-2020, 12:34 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by djbiz1 View Post
Can any one out there tell me if my 3500 Mercedes Sprinter 220 amp alternator is capable of charging lithium iron phosphate batteries?
Read my post above (as well as many others - see Lithium is calling thread). You need to replace the OEM BIM and solenoid with the Progressive Dynamics Li-BIM - 225.
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Old 10-22-2020, 07:05 PM   #26
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Great job Brian. Simple to understand the benefits and the extra steps needed to switch to LiFePO4. Evaluation of Lithium chassis battery going well. No issues after a year and 18000 miles. Great job by your team.
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Old 10-23-2020, 10:48 AM   #27
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Lithium upgrade

Helpful, yes, but I have an r-pod 179 with 2 solar panels and a 12V 100Amp Hour Battleborn Lithium battery. They recommended the Progressive Dynamics PD4045KV Inteli-Power 4000 Series Converter with 45 Amp Charge Wizard to be combined with a VertaMax Pure SINE Wave 1500 Watt (3000W Surge) 12V Power Inverter. Otherwise, I can't use the outlets or the microwave.

However, according to this video do I also need a new battery charge monitor? This r-pod is pre-wired for solar so I'm not sure if or why I have to change out this unit. Is the r-pod's unit capable of monitoring a Litium battery? I've attached a photo of the unit.



Also, there was mention made of a phone app to monitor the battery charge, but no link for it.

Thanks for any advice in this matter.
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Old 10-23-2020, 12:10 PM   #28
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Welcome to the Dynamax Forum. The Go Power battery charge monitor you show in the picture appears to be for AGM batteries, not lithium. It will display voltage which is all you need to follow the state of charge of an AGM battery. The problem is that unlike AGM batteries, the state of charge of a lithium battery cannot be reliably assessed by looking at voltage alone as the voltage remains very constant until right before the battery is completely discharged. You need a monitor that gives you State of Charge. That is why a Victron Shunt or other brand of battery charge monitor is recommended for Lithium. The Victron products come with a very convenient phone app which gives numerous battery parameters including state of charge.
A 100 amp Hr 12 volt battery bank will power a small microwave, but I would not recommend one larger than 1000 watts. A 1000 watt microwave will consume 83 amp/Hr. That means that with a 1000 watt lithium battery you will discharge the battery by about 10% every 6 minutes you run it. Short runs would be OK. Longer runs not so good. Also, make sure you install the inverter near the battery or you will need to use large 2 gauge or greater wires.
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Old 10-23-2020, 01:37 PM   #29
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Please address any fire hazards that Lithium batteries pose. We have all seen the skate boards and devices that catch on fire and airlines which do not allow them in cargo.
If you have remedied, or greatly reduced, the fire hazard then please bring me up to date.
Thank you.
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Old 10-23-2020, 02:05 PM   #30
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Please address any fire hazards that Lithium batteries pose. We have all seen the skate boards and devices that catch on fire and airlines which do not allow them in cargo.
If you have remedied, or greatly reduced, the fire hazard then please bring me up to date.
Thank you.
You are referring to Lithium Ion....those are in small consumer electronics.

These are Lithium Iron Phosphate, very different chemical makeup.

Our goal was to keep it simple, you can find more about the differences here...
https://blog.epectec.com/lithium-iro...and-advantages
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Old 10-23-2020, 03:15 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tahoe John View Post
Please address any fire hazards that Lithium batteries pose. We have all seen the skate boards and devices that catch on fire and airlines which do not allow them in cargo.
If you have remedied, or greatly reduced, the fire hazard then please bring me up to date.
Thank you.
I would add to Brian's comment that the density of the consumer variation of Li battery technology is many times greater than that being employed in the LiPo4 Lead Acid/AGM replacement. Its the density combined with a very tightly wrapped storage requirement that has substantially contributed to the overheating and flammability issues of Li Ion technology in its cheapest iterations. Li Ion is being superseded by Li Polymer and Li PO4 and here is something that details its evolution:
https://www.epectec.com/batteries/li...hnologies.html
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Old 12-12-2020, 03:13 PM   #32
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Hi neighbor. We live in Valley. I think I saw your RV drive by on 395. We were pleasantly surprised to finally see another Isata on NE WA roads!
Thanks for describing your convert to lithium batteries. We're about to do the same.
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Old 12-17-2020, 05:08 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barch View Post
I upgraded my 2019 ISATA 3 last month. You may not need to upgrade your PD 4060 Converter/Inverter. I purchased the upgraded PD4060 LICSV as was recommended. However when I removed my original PD 4060, I discovered that there was a small dip switch on the motherboard labeled LI / AGM. I contacted Progressive Dynamics and they said that there was no difference between the PD 4060 with the Lithium switched on and the PD 4060 LICSV unit. I had already installed the PD 4060 LICSV so I now have an extra unit.
I also replaced the stock BIM and solenoid with the LI-BIM 225. The installation is a bit difficult due to the large diameter wires (2-0) and the small space. Be prepared to struggle with this a bit.

Finally, I installed the Victron Smartshunt 500amp/50mv to monitor SOC, etc. This unit is a must and works flawlessly.

I just returned from my first trip after the installation. We were on the road for 3 weeks and covered 2,500 miles. We camped mostly off grid. The Lithium batteries are a significant functional upgrade. I use CPAP with a heater/humidifier at night which draws up to 80 watts, and we commonly run the furnace at 54 degrees backup. We did not need to run the generator to charge the batteries and we were easily able to make it 2 nights before the SOC would get down to 20%. Also, the batteries do charge very quickly when plugged in or on generator power. They charge while driving as well, but a bit more slowly.

I live in a cold climate (NE Washington) but I do not use my Coach in the winter. Since the lithium batteries take 4 to 6 months to discharge and prefer to be stored in a partly discharged state (40- 60% DOD), I plan on installing a battery isolation switch and just disconnecting them for the November - March storage period. There is no need for heating the batteries while in storage. If for some reason charging is needed, I will warm them up above 32 degrees or pick a warm day.

I purchased two Safari UT 1300 105Ah LiFeP04 batteries from COSTCO on sale with lifetime warranty for $1,400. Highly recommend this upgrade..
Barch, can you post a picture of your installed LI-BIM? We’re getting ready to install ours and would like to see how you fit it in that space and which wires you used. This is our ‘before’
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Old 12-17-2020, 07:26 PM   #34
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Quote:
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Barch, can you post a picture of your installed LI-BIM? We’re getting ready to install ours and would like to see how you fit it in that space and which wires you used. This is our ‘before’
Here you go. See attached below. It was a bit challenging getting those big wires in there. If I had to do it again, I think I would get some strips of bendable copper or aluminum and cut/bend them to size.

Unrelated to the lithium upgrade you will note that the large blue wire on the fuse board has been moved from the left side to the right side. By doing this, you are able to run your slide with the motor running as long as the parking brake is engaged

Hope this helps.
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Old 12-17-2020, 08:33 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Barch View Post
Here you go. See attached below. It was a bit challenging getting those big wires in there. If I had to do it again, I think I would get some strips of bendable copper or aluminum and cut/bend them to size.

Unrelated to the lithium upgrade you will note that the large blue wire on the fuse board has been moved from the left side to the right side. By doing this, you are able to run your slide with the motor running as long as the parking brake is engaged

Hope this helps.
Hey Barch, I noticed the emergency start fuse is missing from your panel. It goes in F1 along with J1 (gray wire). Mine was missing when I installed the LI-BIM 225 also. I think it takes a 15A, mine works good now. Didn't even notice it was missing for the first two years I had my Isata

I did the Slide Wire Mod also.
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Old 12-17-2020, 08:51 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by mlmay12 View Post
Hey Barch, I noticed the emergency start fuse is missing from your panel. It goes in F1 along with J1 (gray wire). Mine was missing when I installed the LI-BIM 225 also. I think it takes a 15A, mine works good now. Didn't even notice it was missing for the first two years I had my Isata

I did the Slide Wire Mod also.
Thanks mlmay12. I have your installation picture on file. I see what you are referring to. I will get a 15 amp fuse and install it. Thanks as always for all of your help. I was going to post the pic of your slick Li-Bim installation for GardenMom, but I wasn't sure if that was kosher.
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Old 12-17-2020, 09:20 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Barch View Post
Thanks mlmay12. I have your installation picture on file. I see what you are referring to. I will get a 15 amp fuse and install it. Thanks as always for all of your help. I was going to post the pic of your slick Li-Bim installation for GardenMom, but I wasn't sure if that was kosher.
Thanks, yours looks good too. I also have been very happy with the way it works. I wish the Lock Downs would go away, just got cancelled on a 5 day camp site at a premium beach spot. My BIM Picture didn't have the fuse in it yet either. You will see it works well with your Monitor and hear the satisfying connection of your LI-BIM.
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Old 12-19-2020, 08:41 PM   #38
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Thanks, yours looks good too. I also have been very happy with the way it works. I wish the Lock Downs would go away, just got cancelled on a 5 day camp site at a premium beach spot. My BIM Picture didn't have the fuse in it yet either. You will see it works well with your Monitor and hear the satisfying connection of your LI-BIM.


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Here is my install on an Isata 4 31DS.
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Old 12-22-2020, 10:33 AM   #39
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Next generation of battery technology

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Old 12-22-2020, 03:34 PM   #40
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Thanks for the photo, Barch. Finished the changeover to lithium batteries. Your photo helped. Especially when the LI-BIM arrived with absolutely no documentation. My husband made a few modifications to keep that box tidy. By removing the heavy copper studs and reversing their direction (so the head was on the outside), he was able to get the LI-BIM connected by reshaping the bus bars. Had to move the green wire on the left over an inch or so to make it all fit.
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