Dynamax storage bay reinforcement

[houstonstroker]

I noticed that on one of my longer storage bays that the rotocast was sagging. I usually let my mother-in-law ride there with her two cats. Maybe she has picked up some weight or maybe the roads are getting worse.

Anyway probably not a problem structure wise, but when loading say milk crates that work better on a flat surface it is a problem.

I had some leftover plywood and indoor outdoor carpet. I cut a piece of plywood the exact size of the floor of the bay. I even notched it for the strut. I practice measure once cut two or three times. The board would not fit through the opening. So I uncovered the board halfway and cut it in two pieces. A trip to Home Depot and one cheap piano hinge later. Fold the board in two place in the bay.

Now it appears that I have spread the load over the surface of the bay however the board is only touching on the edges because the rotocast is deformed.

I bought three super struts I think they are called at Lowes. Used in hanging electrical stuff. I notched one end to make a flat surface. Slid this end on the bottom between the frame and rotocast.

Rotated the struts up against the rotocast. I effectively sandwiched the rotocast between the strut and new plywood board. Six bolts with locking nuts, I now have a perfectly flat bay.

The carpet does not give much cushion to the MIL, so I might add a 1/2 inch memory foam so I won't hear her when going over the bumps.

[halla]

nice job. looks nice and makes it easier to stack.

[sconnors11]

I really like that. Job well done.

[joet19711]

Nice looking job...

I have a couple that are doing that, so may have to do

that to them.

[milkman55]

Your Mother-In-Law will appreciate the memory foam. Don’t forget to get her a pillow to go with it

[houstonstroker]

No pillow, she can lay her head on one of her useless cats.

[Rick50]

Nice looking job!

[Thebackpacker]

Allow me to add my plaudits to your neat job. I face a similar problem, but I have a greater concern about the bays than their sag.

Bclemens has stated in a post on another thread that the bays are designed for a maximum of 200 pounds. Given the generous load carrying capability of the Freightliner chassis, it would be nice if the bays could support more than 200 pounds.

A design of angle iron, or similar, which hangs from the chassis and passes under the bays to support loads greater than 200 pounds might be a consideration, should you find yourself with a need to carry more than 200 pounds in a bay.

______________________
2016 DX3

[RV Randy]

Also try using a heat gun (not a blow dryer) and see if the rotocast will return to shape a bit when heated.

You really do have too much time on your hands now that you are retired.

Between upgrades like this and adding wine racks, you will have the Gross weight of the vehicle so high you will have to leave your mother-in-law behind to not overload the axles

[halla]

Originally Posted by Thebackpacker

Allow me to add my plaudits to your neat job. I face a similar problem, but I have a greater concern about the bays than their sag.



Bclemens has stated in a post on another thread that the bays are designed for a maximum of 200 pounds. Given the generous load carrying capability of the Freightliner chassis, it would be nice if the bays could support more than 200 pounds.



A design of angle iron, or similar, which hangs from the chassis and passes under the bays to support loads greater than 200 pounds might be a consideration, should you find yourself with a need to carry more than 200 pounds in a bay.



______________________

2016 DX3

If you search, someone on this forum added angle iron carriers from the frame, then hooked them together under the rotocast. I would love to have some pull out trays in mine, especially the few that have tools in them.

[houstonstroker]

I use the very last bay on the passenger side for tools, propane and heavy stuff. On this bay I was able to use beam hangers so the weight is carried by the frame.

I believe the GVW for this beast is 33,000. If I have to choose between the wife's wine, my beloved Corona Light or the MIL, well lets just say that is not a hard choice at all.

[Thebackpacker]

Halla,

I constructed a wood frame in the forward right bay to position a multi-drawer tool box to contain tools. The tool box had to be positioned high enough for the bottom drawer to open unimpeded and to prevent the tool box from sliding around. Unfortunately, a good multi-drawer tool box without tools will use up approximately 25% of the 200 lb. load carrying capacity of the bay. I used the right forward bay for tools for ease of access when I need tools inside and for emergency equipment such as reflectors, flares, extra fire extinguisher, etc.

Houstonstroker has the right idea. His selection of the right rear bay has an advantage. Houstonstroker, thank you for your contribution.

Another good reason for loading up the bays on the right side, especially right rear, is the imbalance of weight on the chassis. Before the addition of the tool box, but as loaded for an extended trip, including occupants, the wheel loads for my DX3 were:
L Front = 4,500 llbs.
R Front = 4,050 lbs.
L. Rear = 9,000 lbs.
R. Rear = 7,200 lbs.
Vehicle Total = 24,750 lbs

Compare axle totals and vehicle total to:
Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR), Front = 12,000 lbs
Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR), Rear – 21,000 lbs
Goss Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) = 33,000 lbs

Given the foregoing weights, you should load up the right bays with wine, beer, tools, in-laws, and anything else, as long as you do not exceed the load carrying capability of the bays. Loading both sides of an axle equally will improve handling.

I paid the big bucks for a motorhome on a Freightliner chassis so I would not have to worry about exceeding the axle and vehicle weight ratings. Instead, I worry about the weight ratings of the bays!?
_______________________________________________
2016 DX3, Model DX 35 DS

[halla]

My tools etc are pretty much in the same bays for the same reasons. I dont have much on the drivers side, on the bh model there is really only one open bay.

[mookieblaylock]

Just wanted to bump this thread to say thanks for the 'super strut' idea. Went through about 70' of 2" strut to add supports to each free storage bin on our DX3. Suspended each with all thread from beam clamps on the frame. Added cargo tie downs to each corner and bolted the bottom of the bins to the strut.

Not sure if we'll store the MIL down there, but the bins will hold a hell of a lot of weight now.

Thanks again!

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by houstonstroker

I use the very last bay on the passenger side for tools, propane and heavy stuff. On this bay I was able to use beam hangers so the weight is carried by the frame.

I believe the GVW for this beast is 33,000. If I have to choose between the wife's wine, my beloved Corona Light or the MIL, well lets just say that is not a hard choice at all.

That is a nice and simple design.

As for the 200 lbs rating. They can and will hold more. The issue is, I have said in the past, there are so many different variables that in lieu of common sense, a nice low number is best. We have a steel angle iron frame that surrounds those boxes and they are attached at the sides, top and face. The issue is getting anyone to give a number. Because even as we test certain weights, there is no way to test shifting loads and the effects. That rating covers 90% of the people using them. For the other 10% I think they have enough commons sense and DIY skills to address just the specific area they need specific requirements.

I'll see if I can get a number from the box maker. Of course then the attachment is the 2nd variable...but we control that.

[caseymyers]

I had these same boxes in my last coach. I don't think it's rating so much as heat. I'm in 100 degree plus weather for 5 months out of the year and with tools and such stored in there they get soft in the heat and sag. In the past I put a sheet of plywood in there to help. On my new rig I'll probably find some beam hangers, I really like that solution.