Europa Quality Control

[MoJoe1003]

The exterior light switch should light up the grab bar and the light over the entry door.

[AZFoxes]

Re. Cover over water tank… We bought a flat better grade of plywood, covered it, and swapped it out for what came with the coach. We didn’t find the need to secure it down with screws as it doesn’t budge. We did the same thing for the 2 covers/lids in the overhead bed compartment. One is screwed down but other than a single wire running lengthwise it is completely open. The other cover was just sitting over an open compartment but the wood was warped bad so it needed replaced. We bought, again, better grades of plywood, covered them, hinged the top one so we had access to the space and left the other one unsecured. It doesn’t go anywhere either.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by gremlin

So I just got outside and tried to reset the slide outs, they were going all the way out, I can still get my fingers behind the frame quite easily, there’s actually a wire back there so I don’t think they can go out any further. I’ll have to investigate if there’s something missing in the rubber department that needs to be placed, my previous 3 rigs didn’t have that big a gap around a slide anywhere so that’s sort of worrying.

Is the handle on the outside mid entry door supposed to be illuminated if so under what circumstances? There’s a wire that goes through the wall and it looks like it’s right about where the top of that handle is so I’m not sure, if it’s supposed to light then nothing I’ve done so far has made it light up.

Your fingers can get behind the frame as the rubber seal is only designed to compress about 1/3 of the way....it will not be tight with nom gap, nor is it designed that way....that is the difference between an "in wall" slide and a "hydraulic slide".

The handle only lights from the top...and mostly only visible at night.

There is a known issue of the supplier sending them with cut gaskets at the top. We have since corrected, but if the gasket was cut it can let water in at the top.

[gremlin]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Your fingers can get behind the frame as the rubber seal is only designed to compress about 1/3 of the way....it will not be tight with nom gap, nor is it designed that way....that is the difference between an "in wall" slide and a "hydraulic slide".

The handle only lights from the top...and mostly only visible at night.

There is a known issue of the supplier sending them with cut gaskets at the top. We have since corrected, but if the gasket was cut it can let water in at the top.

It was pitch black when I was looking at the handle, there's no light on there, I'll check that wiring, the way it's installed is a little awkward.

I'll look around for the rubber seal to see, what I was doing was standing inside and putting my fingers behind the frame. I'll measure with caliper and see what that depth is but I can easily get my fingers around it and wiggle them. I did do the recalibration and let it run out until it stopped, so I'm guessing it's correct. On the supplier cut gasket sounds liek you're talking about the top of the slide I've not gotten on a ladder up then, do you have a date they were corrected I can go look at mine. I'm going to see if I can't figure out something else to do to block up the air gap on the bottom corners.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by gremlin

It was pitch black when I was looking at the handle, there's no light on there, I'll check that wiring, the way it's installed is a little awkward.

On the supplier cut gasket sounds liek you're talking about the top of the slide I've not gotten on a ladder up then, do you have a date they were corrected I can go look at mine. I'm going to see if I can't figure out something else to do to block up the air gap on the bottom corners.

No, I am referring to the lighted handle. The top and bottom mounting plates have a gasket. On some, the top gasket was cut and it allowed water into the handle which might be why it is not lighting up.

[gremlin]

Originally Posted by bclemens

No, I am referring to the lighted handle. The top and bottom mounting plates have a gasket. On some, the top gasket was cut and it allowed water into the handle which might be why it is not lighting up.

Ahh okay, i'm going to check power at the cable first inside, if that's all good I'll likely just warranty the issue.

[NewToTheForce]

Originally Posted by gremlin

Ahh okay, i'm going to check power at the cable first inside, if that's all good I'll likely just warranty the issue.

Ours was the same. It was so dim we couldn't tell it was even on unless it was very dark. We took a look, and it had the cut seal on the top. We checked and it had rusty water in it.

[gremlin]

I think I'll leave this one to a dealer to warranty.

Found the problem with the external TV and Sound bar, wrong audio format (it was set to Auto and the soundbar didn't like it). Pro-tip there are two separate sets of setting pages, and an Audio page in each one of them!

The internal main TV's optical cable wasn't plugged into the TV end or the sound bar end.... sigh..

Brian thanks for the image on that wire under the bed, I was able to drill a hole and remove the wire from the splice and put it through the hole and back into the splice, much happier with that routing.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by gremlin

I think I'll leave this one to a dealer to warranty.

Found the problem with the external TV and Sound bar, wrong audio format (it was set to Auto and the soundbar didn't like it). Pro-tip there are two separate sets of setting pages, and an Audio page in each one of them!

The internal main TV's optical cable wasn't plugged into the TV end or the sound bar end.... sigh..

Brian thanks for the image on that wire under the bed, I was able to drill a hole and remove the wire from the splice and put it through the hole and back into the splice, much happier with that routing.

We shouldn't even have an optical cable on there (unless it is an older sound bar). We connect via HDMI with ARC (Audio return channel)

WITH HDMI, the sound bar will turn on automatically with the TV...optical cable will not do that. It might be in the harness...but we should not be using it. (thus why it was unplugged)

[gremlin]

Originally Posted by bclemens

We shouldn't even have an optical cable on there (unless it is an older sound bar). We connect via HDMI with ARC (Audio return channel)

WITH HDMI, the sound bar will turn on automatically with the TV...optical cable will not do that. It might be in the harness...but we should not be using it. (thus why it was unplugged)

The optical cable was unplugged, there is no HDMI Cable going from the TV to the sound bar (or the switchbox either, not sure where the cable would be). The coach is a 2023 Europa from the paperwork (and no board ceiling) so I don't know when you made that change in production but this one wasn't done. Also as it was unplugged at both ends, it's clear no one at either the factory or the dealer checked to see if it worked.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by gremlin

The optical cable was unplugged, there is no HDMI Cable going from the TV to the sound bar (or the switchbox either, not sure where the cable would be). The coach is a 2023 Europa from the paperwork (and no board ceiling) so I don't know when you made that change in production but this one wasn't done. Also as it was unplugged at both ends, it's clear no one at either the factory or the dealer checked to see if it worked.

Well, I know they check them for sound, they are often playing off someone's phone running down the line. But yes, clearly they did not try to play the TV sound through the sound bar....

That is a "management" issue. We were likely not clear in our testing request.

"Does the sound bar work"? Yes, it works

Needs to be a few more details on that testing requirement.

[gremlin]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Well, I know they check them for sound, they are often playing off someone's phone running down the line. But yes, clearly they did not try to play the TV sound through the sound bar....

That is a "management" issue. We were likely not clear in our testing request.

"Does the sound bar work"? Yes, it works

Needs to be a few more details on that testing requirement.

Makes sense. I may take a look at what it takes to get an HDMI cable run anyway to take advantage of the ARC stuff, I did figure out how to reprogram the remote already so it's turning on the sound bar and controlling the volume no problem.

How does one remove the external TV? I've done some searching and can't find any information. I'd like to wire in an in-line switch to make sure it doesn't come on when the inverters on and waste power, I've opened the hatch and found it on three times already, and I'm not entirely certain how that's happening.

[bclemens]

On most M2's, the TV is on an articulating arm (If you have the JBL sound bar outside, then it is articulating arm). I am not sure the Europa is set up that way...it might be like the 30FW it mimic'd and there is not enough depth to do that. In that case, you have to unbolt it from inside. Those will have the Connex soundbar outside as it is smaller)

While the remotes are "paired" to each TV, I think with the close proximity of them, one TV can end up turning on another.

[gremlin]

I'd hoped it was on an arm, but if it is I couldnt' figure out how to release it. From inside? interesting I'll poke around the bathroom and see if I can find a panel that would let me do it.

For the remotes, these are RF? I thought they were IR if the outside cabinet is closed I'm not sure how it could see it to turn it on.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by gremlin

I'd hoped it was on an arm, but if it is I couldnt' figure out how to release it. From inside? interesting I'll poke around the bathroom and see if I can find a panel that would let me do it.

For the remotes, these are RF? I thought they were IR if the outside cabinet is closed I'm not sure how it could see it to turn it on.

Most Firestick remotes can do both.

[gremlin]

So we finally got to go out tonight to try and spend the night in the new rig and test everything out and we've run into two other issues I can't seem to solve

1) When trying to fill the fresh tank it appeared to fill the grey, the grey went to 65% full while the fresh wasn't filling, although I could hear water going in. We dumped the grey out and water came out it didn't feel like 25+ gallons but some amount

2) And this is the worst one, it appears the charger doesn't work at all. The rig has been plugged into 50 amp service the entire 6 days we've had it here at the house. The house batteries (we had the factory one swapped for two 300 a/h lifepo batteries) were showing 11 volts. The charge status reads "Bulk" on the fire-fly and the green light is blinking on the inverter/charger unit which according to the manual indicates "charging", however the firefly is also showing no amperage draw on either leg of the 50 amp service. A check with the volt meter at each battery shows 11.0 volts too, so it's definitely not pushing out the 14.4 volts the config page says for charging. Not sure what more to debug this as there's nothing in the manual that helps. I checked all cut off switches I can find are in the on (green) position.

[bclemens]

Unplug from shore power and cycle the 12V disconnect. (Turn off then back on). That should reboot the Firefly.

The same thing happened when we lost power at Tampa. Also check the breaker on the 50A service.

Once back up, you may need to turn on the inverter where you saw the blinking light.

[gremlin]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Unplug from shore power and cycle the 12V disconnect. (Turn off then back on). That should reboot the Firefly.

The same thing happened when we lost power at Tampa. Also check the breaker on the 50A service.

Once back up, you may need to turn on the inverter where you saw the blinking light.

I'm not sure why you're still up checking Forums at this time of the night for your Brian, but thank you so much. The 50A service was good as all 110 appliances had power. I unplugged it, flipped the battery switch near the door off, counted to 10 and turned it back on, then plugged it back in, and it started charging the batteries.

Not sure what went wrong there, but I'll have to watch for it to happen again and make sure not to leave it too long without validating it's holding voltages. As we have a parking spot for it at the house with power, we just usually leave them plugged in and don't turn off the batteries except over the winter.

I only wish my dealer was providing the level of service you are personally, again thank you.

[CyberShanks]

I think it's likely safe to say that no dealer will ever get to the level of support Brian provides with Dynamax. He is one of the primary reasons my wife and I went this route vs a different vendor. Positive there are many others on the forum that share this perspective.

Hopefully your problems are close to being resolved so you can just enjoy your new rig. We sure are enjoying ours.

Jim

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by gremlin

I'm not sure why you're still up checking Forums at this time of the night for your Brian, but thank you so much. The 50A service was good as all 110 appliances had power. I unplugged it, flipped the battery switch near the door off, counted to 10 and turned it back on, then plugged it back in, and it started charging the batteries.

Not sure what went wrong there, but I'll have to watch for it to happen again and make sure not to leave it too long without validating it's holding voltages. As we have a parking spot for it at the house with power, we just usually leave them plugged in and don't turn off the batteries except over the winter.

I only wish my dealer was providing the level of service you are personally, again thank you.

At Tampa, I think what caused it, is that we were plugged into shore power, but the Tampa Show lost power. The batteries drained down. I used the battery boost to connect the batteries while running the chassis. I was able to finally start the gen, both nothing changed.

I finally unplugged from shore (thinking it was seeing voltage on shore but not amperage???) cycled the 12V and everything just powered right up. I am unsure if cycling the inverter/charger was the key or cycling the Firefly was the key since they both happen at the same time.

I do have the question out to both, to see if we can figure it out.


As for the dealer, I also wish they could provide great customer service...but I also don't expect it. They are tasked with having to know far too many products. (their own fault really), but that is why we are here to bridge that gap until we can get the dealers developed to know what we know.