Europa tips, tricks and mods

[firedude2]

I thought I would start a thread and see if it takes. There are a few of us taking delivery now and some who have had them for a while that have some great tips. I hope they play along and keep this going.

I will start it off with some very basic tips for those who change their own oil. I have owned a 6.7 in my truck for over 13 years now. I have learned a couple things that make oil changes easier. I know this is going against what we all normally do but it works very well.

First drive around until you are at operating temp. Pull your rig into the spot where you will do oil change and the vehicle can stay over night without moving it. Drain the oil. You will need a container that holds 4 plus gallons. I use this one from amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q69590...roduct_details. Replace drain plug and fill with 4 gallons of oil. Do not change filter at this time. Let vehicle sit over night. After sitting over night go ahead and drop the old filter. I highly recommend this tool or one like it. Here is one from amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UD0CTQ...roduct_details You will notice its not hot and dripping oil everywhere. Fill your new filter with a quart of oil, (a little oil on the new seal) and install after checking to make sure the old filter seal is not stuck to the housing and the surface is clean. Tighten by hand as tight as you can get it by hand. I do not use a tool to tighten. Start and run the engine and check oil level.

Total oil needed is 17 quarts with filter. Filter I used is Fleetguard LF3970. Cummins filter is 3937736, pretty sure they are the exact same.

I think once you have done it this way you will not go back to the old way. Very clean and no burns or mess.

Here is a pick of items used.

[M_I_A]

I'll add my take to the oil change process:

I found this filter removal tool much better at gripping than the three prong version:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is unfortunate but the Fleetguard LF3970 filter has smooth sides and no ribs to grip it. You will need a long reach and a removal tool to get at it. The factory filter is on tight!

I'll also add that after I break the filter free I tie a plastic bag around the filter so when it falls loose it stays in the bag and doesn't make a mess.

[firedude2]

Originally Posted by M_I_A

I'll add my take to the oil change process:

I found this filter removal tool much better at gripping than the three prong version:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is unfortunate but the Fleetguard LF3970 filter has smooth sides and no ribs to grip it. You will need a long reach and a removal tool to get at it. The factory filter is on tight!

I'll also add that after I break the filter free I tie a plastic bag around the filter so when it falls loose it stays in the bag and doesn't make a mess.

Interesting tool. Should work well with the Fleetguard also. Not sure why Fleetguards are not ribbed. I have used them for years and not had problems though. I do not over tighten my filters but have seen some brutally tight like the factory. The three prong has not failed me yet but I might give that one a try also. I do a lot of oil changes.

[CyberShanks]

For the stubborn filters, I've found that the ones that just slip over the end are worthless, until.. I went and drilled a 3/16" hole in my filter wrench, then just blast a self-tapper bolt into the filter itself, amazing how it doesn't even think of slipping afterwards.

I don't over-tighten myfiltes either, but, always seem to find a stubborn one that first time..

Jim

[halla]

Another owner in the group gave me a suggestion a few years ago, take a long screwdriver and a hammer, poke a hole in the filter to drain it first, much easier and less mess.

[firedude2]

Originally Posted by halla

Another owner in the group gave me a suggestion a few years ago, take a long screwdriver and a hammer, poke a hole in the filter to drain it first, much easier and less mess.

Thats why i do the overnight deal. Oil has time to settle and its down about a inch from the top. No spillage and not hot. Win win.

[firedude2]

Here is another quick tip most already know but maybe helpful to those that are new to I/C's. If the I/C ever looses power ( battery cut off switches etc. ) always power on your inverter/charger first before hooking to a outside power source or generator. If you plug in or run your generator then power up the I/C it may not allow pass through or charging of batteries.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by firedude2

Here is another quick tip most already know but maybe helpful to those that are new to I/C's. If the I/C ever looses power ( battery cut off switches etc. ) always power on your inverter/charger first before hooking to a outside power source or generator. If you plug in or run your generator then power up the I/C it may not allow pass through or charging of batteries.

Yes, we learned of this from GoPower that the 12V relays can lock up when AC is applied without 12V (as the transfer relays that allow pass-through are 12V powered).

[gremlin]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Yes, we learned of this from GoPower that the 12V relays can lock up when AC is applied without 12V (as the transfer relays that allow pass-through are 12V powered).

Also if you turn off the inverter to save power when you're running on batteries only you must turn it on when you plug into shore, or the charger won't charge the batteries.

[Bill Davis]

Originally Posted by gremlin

Also if you turn off the inverter to save power when you're running on batteries only you must turn it on when you plug into shore, or the charger won't charge the batteries.

I believe that’s incorrect. The converter will charge the battery’s if the inverter is on or off.

[bclemens]

The GoPower Inverter is a bit weird.

[gremlin]

Originally Posted by Bill Davis

I believe that’s incorrect. The converter will charge the battery’s if the inverter is on or off.

I can tell you that according to the very informational gentleman at GoPower I chatted with today and my experimentation this is very much true on my rig.

If it's not supposed to be true then I have something that's failed, I don't have the GOPower Remote yet so I can't validate anyway but my looking at current flow shown on the firefly but here's what I did:

1) un plug rig from shore power
2) turn off the inverter (inverter shows disabled on fireflye)
3) validate #2 by trying to poke buttons on the microwave, it's off
4) plug the rig back into shore power
5) observe that inverter shows "Disabled" and no current is flowing.
6) turn on inverter, firefly now indicates inverter is in "passthrough"
7) see now that there's a jump of current flowing to battery and the battery voltages spike up as it attempts to start charging.

I can tell you that when my rig is plugged in and all 110 appliances work off shore that the batteries will run down on charge unless the inverter is in that pass-through mode.

I'd love for everyone to check this, because if you can show me that even with the inverter not inverting, you plug in and get a charge (which is how all my other coaches worked) then I'd love to know that because there's something wrong with mine.

Page 36 of the manual here: https://forestriverinc.help/#/dynama...ltiple-1419481 seems to indicate to me that this shouldn't be the case but the person I spoke with at GoPower told me that it is For those that don't want to click the text I'm referring to says

Warning: the ON/OFF switch does not turn the battery charger on ore remove AC pass-through mode. If AC power is connected to the AC input, this AC power will also be available on the AC output and it not controlled by the Power ON/OFF switch. If the button is pressed it will start to flash. Once shore power is removed, the inverter will turn off. If the ON/OFF button is not pressed and shore power is removed the inverter will stay on and start to pick up the load.

So please do test and let me know

[gremlin]

One other thing on that GoPower inverter not being on thing that just occurred to me. If you enable AGS but don't leave your inverter on it won't do anything. The generator would auto-start but not charge, or presumably even maintain the batteries.

I'm actually now contemplating starting a separate thread on this, as I'm sure the Europa isn't the only Dynamax equipped with this inverter. I sort of want a poll of how many people are seeing it behave this way and if it is by design. in my previous rig I had a Magnum Pure-Sine 3000 watt inverter and I know it did not behave in this way, but I asked in multiple ways when I chatted with the guy at GoPower yesterday and he kept saying it had to be on to charge, where On meant that it was inverting when not plugged in.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by gremlin

One other thing on that GoPower inverter not being on thing that just occurred to me. If you enable AGS but don't leave your inverter on it won't do anything. The generator would auto-start but not charge, or presumably even maintain the batteries.

I would wait and see what happens with the remote panel. Some of it is the communication bridge...it is trying to translate to the Firefly and by removing that, it may solve a few items.

[gremlin]

Originally Posted by bclemens

I would wait and see what happens with the remote panel. Some of it is the communication bridge...it is trying to translate to the Firefly and by removing that, it may solve a few items.

Hmm, **** okay.

I was hoping when the remote showed up i could plug it in and check the programming I wasn't planning on leaving it in place, because I didn't want to chase a wire all the way up through the rig to put it somewhere I could see it, I was planning on checking programming and status and then plugging back into the firefly so I could manage it all through there, did not think it did not work well enough to use the bridge full time, that's very disappointing.

[bclemens]

I'm not saying that is the case either....I would just see how/if the remote changes things.

[NewToTheForce]

Originally Posted by gremlin

Hmm, **** okay.

I was hoping when the remote showed up i could plug it in and check the programming I wasn't planning on leaving it in place, because I didn't want to chase a wire all the way up through the rig to put it somewhere I could see it, I was planning on checking programming and status and then plugging back into the firefly so I could manage it all through there, did not think it did not work well enough to use the bridge full time, that's very disappointing.

You may want to plan on it. I posted this in another thread, but incase you don't read it, I'll drop it here as well. The difference between what the remote reads and what firefly reads.

Edit: I think running the shore/DC disconnect power cycle clears this up, at least until next charge cycle. I just plug my remote in because cycling every recharge does not appeal to me.

[gremlin]

Originally Posted by NewToTheForce

You may want to plan on it. I posted this in another thread, but incase you don't read it, I'll drop it here as well. The difference between what the remote reads and what firefly reads.

Edit: I think running the shore/DC disconnect power cycle clears this up, at least until next charge cycle. I just plug my remote in because cycling every recharge does not appeal to me.

Thanks again interesting, can you have the firefly and the remote attached at the same time. It feels like if the system as design can't accurately show status and needed information, or allow proper function of the system. Then installation of a system that works should really be a warranty item no?

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by gremlin

Thanks again interesting, can you have the firefly and the remote attached at the same time. It feels like if the system as design can't accurately show status and needed information, or allow proper function of the system. Then installation of a system that works should really be a warranty item no?

Not exactly.

The GoPower remote would provide that function if it is not workable through the Firefly system.

Some items are simply limitations of the Firelfy system...IE lithium batteries. We still have those readings on the Victron app...we would do that up until we can get that capability on the Firefly system that would be as thorough as the Victron app is.

The GoPower remote, if truly needed, would be covered under warranty (I think I have a thread, where if you request it, we would sent it at no cost...so if you purchased, you can get reimbursed).

The only thing it really solves is the ability to turn on the inverter from inside (if it is routed there) vs. turning it on at the inverter after power cut.

[gremlin]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Not exactly.

The GoPower remote would provide that function if it is not workable through the Firefly system.

Some items are simply limitations of the Firelfy system...IE lithium batteries. We still have those readings on the Victron app...we would do that up until we can get that capability on the Firefly system that would be as thorough as the Victron app is.

The GoPower remote, if truly needed, would be covered under warranty (I think I have a thread, where if you request it, we would sent it at no cost...so if you purchased, you can get reimbursed).

The only thing it really solves is the ability to turn on the inverter from inside (if it is routed there) vs. turning it on at the inverter after power cut.

Thank you Brian, I actually got a UPS shipping notification just now that my remote is out for delivery today.

I guess I'm a little confused about what the remote can do then, I had a bunch of questions in my main thread to clarify what components handled what, that I never got a response to so maybe no one know.

My thought was all the remote was going to allow me to do was to validate that the lithium's were programmed correctly for voltages and to disable equilisation, but once that was done it didn't provide any other functionality related to the type of battery installed. The only other thing the remote would do was allow me to turn on the inverter from inside the coach when all power had gone away 12V too. You made a suggestion that if we took the bridge out of the equation that it might not require the inverter to be on for charging to take place, I don't see how that is related to the type of battery at all, so it has nothing to do with lithium.