Floating Fridge

rvsparky · 10-12-2016, 08:57 AM

On my 16 DX3 the refrigerator is not bolted down rigid. There are metal stops that keep it from coming out of its space but it can move front to back and side to side.
I want to bolt it solid from the bottom front.
Any reason why this is a bad idea ??

**bclemens** · 10-12-2016, 09:41 AM

Just the typical CYA from the fridge supplier that if you put holes in their fridge it will void the warranty.

Philos3 · 10-12-2016, 10:02 AM

General approach not specific to Dynamax:

I would start by either going to look at another similar unit and/or calling Dynamax to discuss the normal installation of your refrigerator and your concerns and/or calling the refrigerator mfg to discuss it with them.

You may (should?) be able, from outside your unit, to access the rear of the refrigerator. You could then put a couple of screws from the bottom of the metal refrigerator frame into what may be a plywood floor.

I think that would be better than a couple of screws in the front unless you use two front and two back.

There are probably height adjustment rubber feet in the front of the refrigerator.

Would a hole in the bottom metal frame void the warranty, not sure, mfgs use all kinds of excuses to get out of their warranty obligations.

I have installed three refrigerators in non-Dynamax units. We did not screw them down as they fit securely in their slot. I have seen videos of DIY install where they installed refrigerators that were smaller than original and they used a couple of screws in the bottom back aluminum frame to secure it. I don't think they considered the warranty.

rvsparky · 10-12-2016, 11:02 AM

There is an existing hole in the frame where the front wheels are. Looks like I can fasten through them. Just wanted to make sure there wasn't a reason to having it "loose"
Thanks for all the input

**bclemens** · 10-12-2016, 11:02 AM

These are residential fridges, so no access from behind.

Philos3 · 10-12-2016, 11:13 AM

My residential fridge has an access panel on the rear, low down. If I remove that panel, a lot of the key refrigerator components are accessible, as well as the frame.

Access to the refrigerator from outside the unit should be available by removing the refrigerator air flow panel.

halla · 10-12-2016, 01:18 PM

The access panel on the front lower side covers the furnace. No access to fridge. Mine does not move around luckily. Looking forward to seeing what options are offered.

2016 Dynamax Force. Just-Rite2

rvsparky · 10-12-2016, 01:34 PM

I drilled through the metal stops on the bottom front of the fridge, then placed a wooden spacer then bolted to the bottom frame of the fridge. It's very solid now. Just don't want to rip up the bottom piece of wood that the front stop is screwed to. ��
I feel pretty good about it though.
My problem now is I'm out of projects to fix on the unit. ��

Philos3 · 10-12-2016, 02:46 PM

Halla,
I took a look at some pictures of a new Force via the internet, and I was surprised not to see a couple of louvered vents for the refrigerator. I'm guessing that if they put in a residential refrigerator it may not be required.

Maybe the vents related to the multi fuel sources on the non-residential refrigerator...the propane to be specific.

I'm guessing the chance of a refrigerator fire is minimized with a residential refrigerator.

**bclemens** · 10-12-2016, 03:49 PM

No need for vents because there is no burner. Only a gas absorption fridge requires that. Residential just needs proper air flow around the coils.

Philos3 · 10-12-2016, 08:30 PM

Something to think about, not being able to reinstall a traditional RV refrigerator. If one wants to do some boon docking off the grid, where electricity is at a premium...

halla · 10-12-2016, 09:05 PM

Solar panels for boondocking could help.

2016 Dynamax Force. Just-Rite2

**bclemens** · 10-13-2016, 08:06 AM

Solar panels would be the answer. We try to avoid putting any holes in roofs and sidewalls that aren't absolutely necessary. Plus, depending on fridge mfg...the vent spacing is different per mfg and size of fridge and then you have to figure out how to seal them up for a residential fridge.

WolfWhistle · 10-13-2016, 09:22 AM

I'm trying to figure out how much PV solar array a residential self defrosting fridge by itself would require.

Not sure the duty cycle to use since there are so many variables, but if the typical fridge is 615 watts, that is probably drawing 52 amps of 12 volt DC real-time. If it ran 25% duty cycle for 24 hours a day... that is 312 Ah/day. You would need 624 Ah of battery just for the fridge, so not to discharge past 50% ... to be kind to the batteries and have enough array to put that 312 Amps back every day. If you had 7 hours of "peak" sun you would have to have 45 amps - real-time; based only on my 450W making 22 Amps on a very sunny day; possibly 154 Ah/day (could be better if tilted). So, 312 Ah/day would take close to 912 watts of array; just for the fridge; not considering the inherent loss in the inverter and anything else you are running off those batteries. Many / most RVs don't have enough roof surface for 9 or 10 100W panels or 6+ 150 watters. What about days of autonomy? My head hurts!
WW

Philos3 · 10-13-2016, 10:02 AM

If I was going to take any super C out boon docking/dry camping for more than a day or two at most I would:

1) upgrade the quality and number of batteries.
2) add high quality/high capacity solar
3) focus on using more propane and less electricity: for example, change out the residential refrig for a traditional rv refrig, and pay Dynamax to put in the traditional breathing panels on the exterior.

I would probably want to pull a 3/4 ton truck as well for the additional storage and capabilities.

**bclemens** · 10-13-2016, 10:22 AM

We're looking at an RV fridge for the 5 as an option...but it would probably only be 9 or 10 cu ft. The 12 won't fit.

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