Force Cabover Squeaking

[Sailing Hawks]

Originally Posted by DieselBurn

Have the same annoying. Issues on our 2020 XL 37RB - cabover and door. The wife is about to stop traveling. Can this issue be addressed under warranty Mr. Clemens?

I have same problem on a new 37rb. Did DieselBurn find the problem??

[DieselBurn]

No i have not found or corrected the issue. Winter has caught up with us and “Rosie” had to go to storage. Not looking forward to Spring and i am not sure what to do next. The wife is not interested in continuing our adventures under these conditions. I was not expecting these types of issues in such a new and premium product.

[RV Randy]

Originally Posted by DieselBurn

No i have not found or corrected the issue. Winter has caught up with us and “Rosie” had to go to storage. Not looking forward to Spring and i am not sure what to do next. The wife is not interested in continuing our adventures under these conditions. I was not expecting these types of issues in such a new and premium product.

You're in Evergreen and I'm in Franktown, not too far away. Pick a warmer weekend and bring your rig to my place. We'll figure it out.

[me262]

I was considering ordering a new 2020 Dynaquest XL 37RB. After reading this thread and willing to spend close to 300k, do I want to listen to the cab-over and main coach door squeaking? Sounds like a design flaw to me.

[Jpheifer]

Originally Posted by me262

I was considering ordering a new 2020 Dynaquest XL 37RB. After reading this thread and willing to spend close to 300k, do I want to listen to the cab-over and main coach door squeaking? Sounds like a design flaw to me.

I have a dx3 it’s fine - different people get different units and have different issues and different tolerances - I can assure you if you want to have a great unit with great support dynamax is where it’s at - good luck if you think your going to get a perfect unit even if you spend 1,000,000 on a coach - proper expectations are needed !

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by me262

I was considering ordering a new 2020 Dynaquest XL 37RB. After reading this thread and willing to spend close to 300k, do I want to listen to the cab-over and main coach door squeaking? Sounds like a design flaw to me.

I understand! I've always had towables, but was thinking about switching over to some sort of MH. Over the last few months I have driven three MHs for family/friends for various reasons. About 3000 miles total, two with toads.
Here is what I found.
You have to pack differently because everything rattles, from your stuff in the cabinets, to the MH itself. True, after awhile you learn to ignore it or fix it, but I really didn't like all that constant noise.
The larger MH (class A) seemed to handle much better on the road, after you get used to the 'lean'. The two class Cs on an F450 chassis were terrible. Had to chase them all over the road. One had some suspension upgrades, one did not. I couldn't tell much difference.
Turning radius was atrocious with all of them, and forget about backing very far with a toad. Manuvering to fuel pumps was much more difficult than my 35' fifth wheel. But that could be because I don't have a lot of experience driving MHs.
Setup time and ease was comparable to my fifth wheel with levelup. Advantages and disadvantages to both in this area, so to me, it was a draw.
Conclusion is that I am no longer entertaining even a thought of switching to any kind of a MH

[Jpheifer]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

I understand! I've always had towables, but was thinking about switching over to some sort of MH. Over the last few months I have driven three MHs for family/friends for various reasons. About 3000 miles total, two with toads.
Here is what I found.
You have to pack differently because everything rattles, from your stuff in the cabinets, to the MH itself. True, after awhile you learn to ignore it or fix it, but I really didn't like all that constant noise.
The larger MH (class A) seemed to handle much better on the road, after you get used to the 'lean'. The two class Cs on an F450 chassis were terrible. Had to chase them all over the road. One had some suspension upgrades, one did not. I couldn't tell much difference.
Turning radius was atrocious with all of them, and forget about backing very far with a toad. Manuvering to fuel pumps was much more difficult than my 35' fifth wheel. But that could be because I don't have a lot of experience driving MHs.
Setup time and ease was comparable to my fifth wheel with levelup. Advantages and disadvantages to both in this area, so to me, it was a draw.
Conclusion is that I am no longer entertaining even a thought of switching to any kind of a MH

Perhaps consider a class c - our freightliner chassis is AWSOME

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by Jpheifer

Perhaps consider a class c - our freightliner chassis is AWSOME

Actually, I do want to drive a Freightliner chassis, just to compare, but our next RV will still be a fiver. But the Dynamax always grabs my attention!

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by me262

I was considering ordering a new 2020 Dynaquest XL 37RB. After reading this thread and willing to spend close to 300k, do I want to listen to the cab-over and main coach door squeaking? Sounds like a design flaw to me.

If you read the threads, if it was an issue, most people have been able to correct it. And most have no issue at all. You only read about the ones that do.

[Sailing Hawks]

Originally Posted by bclemens

This has been corrected before...They took the panels off that cover the transition. I don't recall who, but you might be able to search this forum for "squeak" and "cab over". Or whoever did it will come along and maybe post a link.

2020 Dynaquest xl 37rb with 3567 miles with a loud noise in overhead cab,no bunk, above driver and passenger seats. Driving me crazy. My wife will not travel with me until I repair this. Can anyone tell what is behind the CB and small storage cabinets above the seats? This is the area where the noise is coming from.

[Dick Skeers]

we had annoying rattles and squeaks obove the driver's seat. removed the trim and:
1. a bolt that holds the floor up was about a 1/2" short. adjusted it.
2. there were layers of materials that we used a combination of spray foam and caulking glue at suspicious places.
rattles all gone, squeaking mostly gone.

[BBC Cobra]

RV Randy, I have a 2018 DX3 with a squeaky coach door also, I have the striker adjusted as tight as is practical, I’m going to try WD-40 but would like to see a picture of the rubber bumpers you mentioned, I’m not seeing them on mine, might want to add them too. Thanks

[RV Randy]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

Actually, I do want to drive a Freightliner chassis, just to compare, but our next RV will still be a fiver. But the Dynamax always grabs my attention!

5th wheels are a great solution, as long as you don't need to tow anything else substantial. Some states allow you to pull doubles, like here in Colorado. A friend has a 5th wheel but also needs to haul his RZR without converting to a toy box trailer. So he has a hitch on the back of the 5th wheel and pulls a small trailer for the RZR. Works OK but is impossible to back up, and he could not tow anything heaver than this.

As far as turning radius, I suggest you are just used to the 5th wheel and need to learn to drive the super C as a long straight frame rig like this handles differently. I can get it into any place my friends 5th wheel will go with no additional effort. And I can tow 30' trailers that weigh more than 10K that you could not tow with a 5th wheel. It all depends what your needs are as far as determining what is best for you.

[RV Randy]

Originally Posted by BBC Cobra

RV Randy, I have a 2018 DX3 with a squeaky coach door also, I have the striker adjusted as tight as is practical, I’m going to try WD-40 but would like to see a picture of the rubber bumpers you mentioned, I’m not seeing them on mine, might want to add them too. Thanks

These bumpers go on the outside of the screen door, so between the screen door and the outer door.

Mine came from the factory with only 1 on it, near the top of the screen door. I got another one from Dynamax parts and put it near the bottom of the door. This helps ensure there is no rattle gap between the screen door and outer door. I would also suggest having a total of 3 and putting 1 in the middle of the screen door too.

The squeaking can usually be eliminated by adjusting the striker bolt inwards further. If you are already at the limit you can remove the striker bolt and grind a small amount out of the slotted bolt hole so the striker can move a little further inwards. Thats what I had to do on mine. Takes a solid push now to close the door but it is now totally silent.

[Riverbend]

Different MH, but maybe a similar fix. Our Isata 3 24FW squeaked like crazy over the driver's and passenger seat. I removed the trim and stuffed some clean white rags, bought in bulk for painting, in the void, paying particular attention to areas where the metal framework and the headliner and overhead storage touched, or were likely to touch. Squeaks gone, took maybe 15 minutes, and our ride is much quieter.

[BBC Cobra]

RV Randy, thanks, I’ll give that a try...

[mookieblaylock]

Originally Posted by M T Pockets

I had the same issue with my 2018 37TS. Remove the transition panels on both sides, undo the screws that hold the platform to the frame work around the walk-thru opening. There is a flat metal framework in there that the plywood rests against that is causing the squeak. I cut some strips of adhesive felt that I had, pryed up on the plywood enough to get the strips layed in and stuck to the metal framework running forward and across towards the outside wall and the squeak is now permanetly gone. Now if i could just get the coach door to stop. It is fine when it is warm outside, but in the cold it is brutal. Have adjusted to the max and still squeaks.

I've had this thread opened in separate tab on my phone since December to remind myself to give this a shot. About a year ago I read the other thread on this issue and tore into this area with plans to repeat what was documented there. Mine didn't look exactly like the posted pics, and I couldn't see how the drilling and foam back filling would help in my case. This suggestion to add felt between the plywood and the square tube frame, however, was exactly what mine needed...I can't believe how quiet things are now.

Thanks for posting your solution!

JT

[dannko]

Originally Posted by MoJoe1003

I have both issues on my ‘18 XL. The door is the worst of the two. It makes a racket so loud and annoying even radio volume can’t cover it up. When it is cold mine gets worse as well. I’m going to try the WD-40 in the lock and see if it works. I believe it is the rubber door seal gasket that presses against the metal door frame causing the problem. When underway my wife can pull inwards on the door handle and the squeak goes away. I have adjusted the striker as much as possible at this point, but to no avail.

You can probably adjust that strike plate more than you think, plus the main post can be adjusted. I added weatherstrip around the entire perimeter, it comes with one downside, to fully close the door where you get that second "snap" of the lock requires a heavy tug from the inside, or a flat palm outside pushing on the lock to get that final lock snap. Door noise was majorly reduced when I insulated the stairwell, you would be surprised how the noise from the doorway was reduced, as that stairwell is a tin can.

[dannko]

Originally Posted by mookieblaylock

I've had this thread opened in separate tab on my phone since December to remind myself to give this a shot. About a year ago I read the other thread on this issue and tore into this area with plans to repeat what was documented there. Mine didn't look exactly like the posted pics, and I couldn't see how the drilling and foam back filling would help in my case. This suggestion to add felt between the plywood and the square tube frame, however, was exactly what mine needed...I can't believe how quiet things are now.

Thanks for posting your solution!

JT

When Dynamax fixed mine, they basically bolted the frame to the plywood/bed base. They drilled thru the bed grey carpet base, but for them they have little matching plugs to cover the screw holes, maybe they sell those.