Go Power Solar Expansion

[TheF1sh]

Now that I've spent some time boondocking in our 2021 Force HD 37 BH, I'm realizing that the 200 watts of solar that came on the RV is just enough to run the refrigerator and small electronics during the day but not enough to put a meaningful charge on the batteries with those loads present. If I go into an evening with a full charge, the combo of the lights, propane heater, and refrigerator drain the stock batteries to around 12.1 volts by morning. On a sunny day, with the refrigerator and small electronics running, I can get it up to 12.2 volts (maybe 12.3, if I'm lucky) by the end of the day. Given this, I'd like to expand the solar capacity a bit.

For simplicity, I'm inclined to max out the existing GP-PWM-30-SQ controller and wiring, which I'm told by Go Power would be 3 additional 100 watt panels for a total of 500 watts and 28.4 amps... (https://gpelectric.com/products/sola...att-expansion/) That appears to be easy enough but I have a few questions for those of you with experience:

1. Is it accurate that the existing wiring in the coach can handle 28.4 amps without issue?
2. I see that the factory installed panels are screwed into the roof. Is it necessary or recommended to penetrate the roof to mount flex panels or would it be sufficient to mount the panels with Sikaflex-252 and cover the perimeter with Dicor 501 self-leveling lap sealant?
3. If I were to mount the panels with screws, do I need to align with roof joists somehow or is there a substrate that will hold the screw?
4. The tech that I spoke with at Go Power mentioned that they generally recommend 100 watts of solar per 100 amp hours of battery. He wasn't keen on adding this much solar without adding at least another 100 amp hours of battery. I will almost certainly upgrade to lithium in the near future so I don't see this as a long term issue but I'm struggling to see how it would be an issue with my existing 200 amp hour bank, given the intelligent charge controller and the loads that I'm running. What am I missing?
5. Anything else that I should be aware of before I dive into this?

Thanks in advance for your help on this. If there's another post containing this info, feel free to point me there. I did spend several hours searching and reading but sometimes the right keywords allude me.

[bclemens]

1. I believe we run 10ga standard which is sized for the controller
2. No..we actuallly stopped putting screws in as it was just "extra" precaution. Today we use 3M VHB tape and then dicor to prevent lifting at the edges.
3. No, 1/2" plywood, but see 2 anyway.
4. don't you have (2) 4D batteries? Those should be 198 Amp Hours each....unless they are only counting 50% which would be usable?

[TheF1sh]

Originally Posted by bclemens

1. I believe we run 10ga standard which is sized for the controller
2. No..we actuallly stopped putting screws in as it was just "extra" precaution. Today we use 3M VHB tape and then dicor to prevent lifting at the edges.
3. No, 1/2" plywood, but see 2 anyway.
4. don't you have (2) 4D batteries? Those should be 198 Amp Hours each....unless they are only counting 50% which would be usable?

Awesome - Thank you! I'll order up some 3M tape. Correct on the batteries. Somehow I managed to get my wires crossed. I should have poked my head back in there to confirm my recollection. My memory isn't what it used to be.

[Doug5m5]

Ill pick up our new 2021 DX3 BH next week with an electric/gas frig. I added 3 more solar panels (total 5), hoping 5 will work! Ill let you know May 1st when I'm boondocking in Monterey at the race track.

[TheF1sh]

Originally Posted by Doug5m5

Ill pick up our new 2021 DX3 BH next week with an electric/gas frig. I added 3 more solar panels (total 5), hoping 5 will work! Ill let you know May 1st when I'm boondocking in Monterey at the race track.

Please do report back on it. I ordered my panels, wires, and adhesives today. If they get here in time, I'll install them this weekend. We'll be boondocking for a mountain bike race the following weekend, so I'll be able to put them to the test. I'm curious to see how the batteries react. I'm still anticipating the need for a lithium upgrade but will wait to see how this performs.

Enjoy Laguna Seca! You may be able to test those panels out with some fog.

[Tom in Ohio]

Originally Posted by TheF1sh

Now that I've spent some time boondocking in our 2021 Force HD 37 BH, I'm realizing that the 200 watts of solar that came on the RV is just enough to run the refrigerator and small electronics during the day but not enough to put a meaningful charge on the batteries with those loads present. If I go into an evening with a full charge, the combo of the lights, propane heater, and refrigerator drain the stock batteries to around 12.1 volts by morning. On a sunny day, with the refrigerator and small electronics running, I can get it up to 12.2 volts (maybe 12.3, if I'm lucky) by the end of the day. Given this, I'd like to expand the solar capacity a bit.

For simplicity, I'm inclined to max out the existing GP-PWM-30-SQ controller and wiring, which I'm told by Go Power would be 3 additional 100 watt panels for a total of 500 watts and 28.4 amps... (https://gpelectric.com/products/sola...att-expansion/) That appears to be easy enough but I have a few questions for those of you with experience:

1. Is it accurate that the existing wiring in the coach can handle 28.4 amps without issue?
2. I see that the factory installed panels are screwed into the roof. Is it necessary or recommended to penetrate the roof to mount flex panels or would it be sufficient to mount the panels with Sikaflex-252 and cover the perimeter with Dicor 501 self-leveling lap sealant?
3. If I were to mount the panels with screws, do I need to align with roof joists somehow or is there a substrate that will hold the screw?
4. The tech that I spoke with at Go Power mentioned that they generally recommend 100 watts of solar per 100 amp hours of battery. He wasn't keen on adding this much solar without adding at least another 100 amp hours of battery. I will almost certainly upgrade to lithium in the near future so I don't see this as a long term issue but I'm struggling to see how it would be an issue with my existing 200 amp hour bank, given the intelligent charge controller and the loads that I'm running. What am I missing?
5. Anything else that I should be aware of before I dive into this?

Thanks in advance for your help on this. If there's another post containing this info, feel free to point me there. I did spend several hours searching and reading but sometimes the right keywords allude me.

I Have 5 panels on my Isata 5 30FW with a 6 battery bank. The Go Power unit work fine with that setup. A few times I pushed a high reading of 32.3 amps in Florida with no issues regarding the controller.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by Tom in Ohio

I Have 5 panels on my Isata 5 30FW with a 6 battery bank. The Go Power unit work fine with that setup. A few times I pushed a high reading of 32.3 amps in Florida with no issues regarding the controller.

By code, I believe that controller is maxed out at 4 panels. It is not about what you will get, but what the panels are rated for (as they can get that in perfect conditions). So proceed at your own risk.

[TheF1sh]

Originally Posted by Tom in Ohio

I Have 5 panels on my Isata 5 30FW with a 6 battery bank. The Go Power unit work fine with that setup. A few times I pushed a high reading of 32.3 amps in Florida with no issues regarding the controller.

That's interesting. Those 100 watt flex panels are rated at 5.68 amps in ideal conditions. They must have under-rated them a bit.

Is your battery bank lithium or AGM? How many amp hours? How long does it take you to recharge the batteries from full depletion with solar (or 50% if AGM)?

[TheF1sh]

Originally Posted by bclemens

By code, I believe that controller is maxed out at 4 panels. It is not about what you will get, but what the panels are rated for (as they can get that in perfect conditions). So proceed at your own risk.

Is that a different controller in his Isata or are you saying that code requires operation at a lesser % than what the wiring is rated for?

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by TheF1sh

Is that a different controller in his Isata or are you saying that code requires operation at a lesser % than what the wiring is rated for?

It could have been the flex panel we were running before. When we looked at what is stamped on the panel (as opposed to what is listed on their specs) it had a higher "rated amperage". In looking at their solar controller, they say it can accommodate up to 600 watts....but the solar kit they have with 500 watts, has a 60 amp MPPT controller. So who knows.

[Tom in Ohio]

Originally Posted by TheF1sh

That's interesting. Those 100 watt flex panels are rated at 5.68 amps in ideal conditions. They must have under-rated them a bit.

Is your battery bank lithium or AGM? How long does it take you to recharge the batteries from full depletion with solar (or 50% if AGM)?

AGM from SAM's Club which are made by PENN in PA. Exact same specs as the 2 that came with my unit.
Don't worry about damage to your 30 amp Go Power controller being exceeded by a few amps on rare occasions as the design will handle that fine. Remember though any amps over 30 that might be generated won't be passed onto your battery bank.

[mjbenedict]

I increased my panels to 5 by buying three additional panels on amazon, 2 pairs of three way combiners, a 10ft cable, and the 2 dicor tubes to seal them up. Used stainless screws to screw them down and for the cable clamps. Put sealant in the screw holes then screwed down, sealed the whole way around and over the screw heads. Pretty much everything listed here is what you need: https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post2259179

Oh, and a 300ah LifeBlue lithium battery is now in the place where my two factory agms were.

[TheF1sh]

Originally Posted by mjbenedict

I increased my panels to 5 by buying three additional panels on amazon, 2 pairs of three way combiners, a 10ft cable, and the 2 dicor tubes to seal them up. Used stainless screws to screw them down and for the cable clamps. Put sealant in the screw holes then screwed down, sealed the whole way around and over the screw heads. Pretty much everything listed here is what you need: https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post2259179

Oh, and a 300ah LifeBlue lithium battery is now in the place where my two factory agms were.

Great detail. That's helpful. Thank you!

[backdoctor]

As my coach won't be built for a while I have time to consider options on our new 34DS. I've installed solar on our current unit (Solera 24R) so I'm not unfamiliar with the process. But I'm starting to think that "from the factory" may reduce drilling holes and stinging wires. Is the stock unit prewired for solar? I know the cost is about $1309 in other reading I've done. Does this include the victron DOC monitor?

I haven't seen the cost of the lithium conversion in my reading. What is the list for that? I think they use the relion 100ah low temp batteries, correct?

[bclemens]

Stock is "not prewired" per se. While the wires may be in the harness, we do not currently make them "easily accessible". Factory option would include (2) 100 watt panels, 30A Go Power PWM controller and 10ga wire.

Solar is likely going standard for 2022 MY.

Lithium is $2393 MSRP as of today, though I will be updating 2022 pricing soon and all options will be reviewed.

The only way you get the Victron is with Lithium (for BM) and/or Xplorer package (for solar)

[TheF1sh]

Originally Posted by backdoctor

As my coach won't be built for a while I have time to consider options on our new 34DS. I've installed solar on our current unit (Solera 24R) so I'm not unfamiliar with the process. But I'm starting to think that "from the factory" may reduce drilling holes and stinging wires. Is the stock unit prewired for solar? I know the cost is about $1309 in other reading I've done. Does this include the victron DOC monitor?

I haven't seen the cost of the lithium conversion in my reading. What is the list for that? I think they use the relion 100ah low temp batteries, correct?

If you're going to boondock much at all, I would highly recommend the factory battery upgrade. With the price that Brian mentioned, you won't be able to beat that doing it on your own. If I were ordering ours (rather than having bought it off the lot) I would have done it for sure.

[backdoctor]

Yes. The price is about what you'd pay for 2 Relion batteries alone! A great deal!

[backdoctor]

We often boondock. And guerrilla camp on streets in towns as we're passing through. And the lake where our coach gets parked much of the summer is unpowered. Solar and Genny are the only way to go for us. My current coach has 90 hrs on the Genny after 6 yrs, entirely from exercising it monthly.

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by TheF1sh

Now that I've spent some time boondocking in our 2021 Force HD 37 BH, I'm realizing that the 200 watts of solar that came on the RV is just enough to run the refrigerator and small electronics during the day but not enough to put a meaningful charge on the batteries with those loads present. If I go into an evening with a full charge, the combo of the lights, propane heater, and refrigerator drain the stock batteries to around 12.1 volts by morning. On a sunny day, with the refrigerator and small electronics running, I can get it up to 12.2 volts (maybe 12.3, if I'm lucky) by the end of the day. Given this, I'd like to expand the solar capacity a bit.

For simplicity, I'm inclined to max out the existing GP-PWM-30-SQ controller and wiring, which I'm told by Go Power would be 3 additional 100 watt panels for a total of 500 watts and 28.4 amps... (https://gpelectric.com/products/sola...att-expansion/) That appears to be easy enough but I have a few questions for those of you with experience:

1. Is it accurate that the existing wiring in the coach can handle 28.4 amps without issue?
2. I see that the factory installed panels are screwed into the roof. Is it necessary or recommended to penetrate the roof to mount flex panels or would it be sufficient to mount the panels with Sikaflex-252 and cover the perimeter with Dicor 501 self-leveling lap sealant?
3. If I were to mount the panels with screws, do I need to align with roof joists somehow or is there a substrate that will hold the screw?
4. The tech that I spoke with at Go Power mentioned that they generally recommend 100 watts of solar per 100 amp hours of battery. He wasn't keen on adding this much solar without adding at least another 100 amp hours of battery. I will almost certainly upgrade to lithium in the near future so I don't see this as a long term issue but I'm struggling to see how it would be an issue with my existing 200 amp hour bank, given the intelligent charge controller and the loads that I'm running. What am I missing?
5. Anything else that I should be aware of before I dive into this?

Thanks in advance for your help on this. If there's another post containing this info, feel free to point me there. I did spend several hours searching and reading but sometimes the right keywords allude me.

I have an Isata 5 with the same Solar controller. I have upgraded to 3x 160watt Renogy rigid panels. Obviously, that puts me at 480watts total. In a theoretical, laboratory conditions type of environment, that should be something around 29.25amp (Renogy says that each panel should be capable of 9.75amp). In reality, in clear, high noon, Rocky Mountain sunlight, I’ll see 27amps, but that’s pretty rare. It’s usually around 23-24amps in good light. So, I suspect you’ll see the same/similar results.

I cannot speak specifically to your Force HD, but our Isata 5 has 10awg wire from the cable entry on the roof to the controller and then 8awg wire from the controller to the batteries. There is also a 30amp auto-resetting circuit breaker in-between the controller and the batteries. So, I would assume anything that exceeds 30amps would trip that breaker.

[TheF1sh]

Closing the loop on this... I installed the extra panels and spent the weekend dry camping with my son. I found that the 500 watts is enough to cover the refrigerator and other minor loads while bringing the AGM batteries back to a nearly full charge before sunset.