Holding Tank Valve/Cable system troubles

[pgeraghty]

I have a 2016 Isata 3 with 30k miles. The cable system for the black/grey holding tanks has been a worsening problem. The cables are not well routed, use of zip ties with sags that are ripe for water to collect in and cause rusting. The cables are increasingly hard to pull out/push in from the panel.
The latest issue is with the black water cable - it melted in in 2 sections from contact with the generator exhaust pipe, making the cable inoperative, so I have to crawl under the tank area and pull the cable in/out from there. I need to replace it - but can not find any documentation for the cable/valve system. Ant help finding something on it would be appreciated.

We are planning a trip to Alaska - need this fixed...

Patrick Geraghty
Minneapolis, MN

[bclemens]

It's a Valtera cable black/gray valve.

The issue is they come in pre-set lengths. At one time there was a type we could cut to length and it gave you more flexibility. I'll have to check the materials list to see what length we use. I have been trying to figure out an electric valve, but they don;t fit, The other option is to put a straight pull on the passenger side...but no one likes that.

[milkman55]

I would vote for the pull on the passenger side vs the long cables. They tend to stick and are hard to push closed. Seems like the pulls could go in an expanded door where the low pressure propane and water line drains are located?

Not sure what having the pulls on the drain side adds to the usability. I do know this is pretty much industry standard and hard to break the mold.

[FFred]

You might try to lubricate the cables.

Motorcycle shops have cable lubricatirs and special oil.

I simply use green antifreeze on a slobbering paper towel with plastic wrap to lubricate .

Leave it in place during a day , but remove it at night when an animal might attempt to eat the sweet antifreeze which is a poison.

[changing it up a bit]

I posted a thread awhile back. To change the valve is not a big job. Use the Valtera valves. You will just need to measure the cable lenght. My only suggestion is that when you install the two seals on each flange of the drain pipe, apply a light coat of flex seal, let it stand for awhile. This will ensure that the seal stays in place and does not fall off when you install the valve. If it does it causes the contents of the tank to leak past the valve. Other than that not a big deal.
Oh you may have to cut the underbelly to get access to the valve. Any questions you may message me or post again.
good luck

[dsimo7]

If you're going to get under there and replace the valve, you might consider replacing the manual valve with an electric one. It eliminates the cable issues. I did mine two seasons ago and love it.

[Bill Davis]

Originally Posted by dsimo7

If you're going to get under there and replace the valve, you might consider replacing the manual valve with an electric one. It eliminates the cable issues. I did mine two seasons ago and love it.

You have an Isata 3?

[Wlasota]

I just replaced my black tank valve & cable with an electric valve. It is fantastic. Unfortunately I would not be able to do the same with the other 2 grey water valves because of the way the piping was installed. It took me about 5 hours to do. That includes plumbing & wiring. I wish I had did this before.

[cfiowa]

Originally Posted by Wlasota

I just replaced my black tank valve & cable with an electric valve. It is fantastic. Unfortunately I would not be able to do the same with the other 2 grey water valves because of the way the piping was installed. It took me about 5 hours to do. That includes plumbing & wiring. I wish I had did this before.

Replace all mine with electric, on my cedar creek. Glad I did best thing I did

[wanderer44]

I have a 2019 isata 3 24fw. It looks like our valve is a Bristol valve but I could be wrong . The cable to the valves are run too tightly bent and bind also! If these could be cut to length, it would





almost a straight shot across the span.

[pgeraghty]

Thank you for all the responses - I had thought that an electric valve is the way to go. That's what I'll do for the black water valve. Any help on what brand to use and wiring tips would be great!

Pat

[pgeraghty]

Yep

[pgeraghty]

I found this electronic valve opener - Barker Auto-Drain 3" (#24130)

https://www.barkermfg.com/auto-drains.html

It looks like it will work to replace the cable system for the black water valve on my Isata 3.


Before I dig into this, I'm looking at the existing cable system at the valve, see the bracket holding the cable needs to be removed. Do I simply loosen the 4 bolts and slide that bracket out?

[cfiowa]

What you have there are valterra valves. Had these on my cedar creek.
The 4 bolts do not hold the clip on. The clip snaps on and the top of the clip is a screw you remove then the cover comes off then you take an Allen wrench to remove the cable from the rod, then the clip will come off.

[cfiowa]

I ended up buying valterra electric valves. Took some modification for these to fit since these only come in 3inch hole. Works great for black tanks but my grey was 1.5 size and I had to reduce the size in order to fit.

[pgeraghty]

Thanks for this info - Took another look where the auto drain unit needs to go, everything looks doable. Ordered the 3" unit - will install Friday. Not sure where to wire to a power source, any suggestions?


Pat

[milkman55]

I would run the wiring over to the utility bay where you have power to tap into room to mount the switches. Also places the switches over by the drain.

I printed out the brochure on these valves and it sure looks like a winner. Will be following to see how your install goes. Please post lots of progress pics we can follow.

BC commented they didn’t have room for electric valves, but those look pretty compact? Interested to know if there is room for the grey tank valve as well.

[pgeraghty]

Good idea on running/hooking up the wires - and I was going to install the switch where the old cable pull handle was.

One more thing - I removed the old cable/bracket and tried pushing/pulling the rod that moves the valve directly - it goes in/out, but takes a bit to push in and pull out. I'm thinking there may be some crud around the valve/guides causing the resistance, but don't want to take the valve out and clean or replace it if I don't have to. I won't know if the electric unit will have the force to do this until I install it. Anyone have experience with this?

Here's a pic of what the valve (it's Bristol) looks like ready for the Auto-Drain:

[milkman55]

I bought some Camco drain valve lube to put in the tanks after draining to help keep the valves moving freely. I have not used it long enough to give a review, but in principle it seems like it should help.

[AWF1945]

I agree, electric valves are the way to go. Valtera cable valves are nothing but trouble.