Home at Last!

[RV Randy]

Picked the rig up today and took it home after about a 4 hour final PDI with the dealership.

Overall they did a pretty good job and the interior/exterior was great. They fixed all of the things on my previous list.

On the drive home the coach was very quiet as far as squeeks and rattles except for the coach door and it rattled like a box of empty beer cans. Looks like the striker bolt needs to be adjusted in about 1/8". The striker plate for the deadbolt is loose and needs to be adjusted.

I can't get the AquaHot to fire up. I am plugged in to shore power, the electric heating element in turned on, both thermostats and set to 75 degrees, mode is heat and the furnace button is turned on. When I look at the control board in the AH bay there are no lights lit up on it though it appears there is 1 LED for "electronic heating element status" that should be lit. Is there a master power switch somewhere that could have gotten turned off? Where is the breaker located that controls the 110v AC to the AH?

SAT system won't work with the DISH box. I read through the manual and the dip switches are set default for DirecTV so it looks like I will need to get on the roof and set those correctly.

The adjustments to the seat they made are great, I have plenty of leg room now.

They did say they found the water pump was defective, leaking around the pump head I think, they replaced it so all is good.

Our driveway is slightly downhill and pretty level side to side. But the auto leveler can't seem to get it figured out. It always ends up with a slight lean to the drivers side. I tried it with air bags filled/dumped, slides in and out, makes no difference. Not sure what is going on because when I checked it the dealership last weekend, it seemed to work perfect.


And we have the pink stain on the ceiling issue, we'll wait to see what the factory comes up with.

Overall not too many issues to deal with at home. Let the fun begin!


PS-Drove the rig home in a stiff 35-40 mph crosswind, high wind warning for the big rigs. It held the road really well, much better than the previous class A.

[halla]

Glad it went well. Nice to be home.

The level issue probably needs calibrated, but that is why I manual level.

[rskeans]

Originally Posted by RV Randy

I can't get the AquaHot to fire up.

Check the coolant level in the expansion bottle. I had to add significant amounts of the special type of anti-freeze before the level stabilized.
My other problem was the diesel burner would not re-fire. I called a mobile-tech who was very familiar with Aqua-hot. He was an authorized repair guy. He replaced a module inside the Aqua-hot and it fixed the problem. This was handled by the Aqua-hot warranty, but I did have to pay the guy for a service call that was not a warranty item.

[MasterBlaster]

Like Halla I always manual level just seems to be much easier and more accurate for me. Enjoy figuring everything out, that is half the fun. If you run into problems the forum is excellent help, I have solved many problems just by asking others. Safe travels and hope to see you on the road soon.

[sseaner]

Congrats on the new rig. Lets see some more pics.

[milkman55]

All the Wingard satellites are set to Direct TV at the factory. Once you change the dip switches, the software download took about 30 min and I had to be in a very open area to get a strong enough signal to download. I used a Wally receiver for my Dish.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by RV Randy

Picked the rig up today and took it home after about a 4 hour final PDI with the dealership.

Overall they did a pretty good job and the interior/exterior was great. They fixed all of the things on my previous list.

On the drive home the coach was very quiet as far as squeeks and rattles except for the coach door and it rattled like a box of empty beer cans. Looks like the striker bolt needs to be adjusted in about 1/8". The striker plate for the deadbolt is loose and needs to be adjusted.

I can't get the AquaHot to fire up. I am plugged in to shore power, the electric heating element in turned on, both thermostats and set to 75 degrees, mode is heat and the furnace button is turned on. When I look at the control board in the AH bay there are no lights lit up on it though it appears there is 1 LED for "electronic heating element status" that should be lit. Is there a master power switch somewhere that could have gotten turned off? Where is the breaker located that controls the 110v AC to the AH?

SAT system won't work with the DISH box. I read through the manual and the dip switches are set default for DirecTV so it looks like I will need to get on the roof and set those correctly.

The adjustments to the seat they made are great, I have plenty of leg room now.

They did say they found the water pump was defective, leaking around the pump head I think, they replaced it so all is good.

Our driveway is slightly downhill and pretty level side to side. But the auto leveler can't seem to get it figured out. It always ends up with a slight lean to the drivers side. I tried it with air bags filled/dumped, slides in and out, makes no difference. Not sure what is going on because when I checked it the dealership last weekend, it seemed to work perfect.


And we have the pink stain on the ceiling issue, we'll wait to see what the factory comes up with.

Overall not too many issues to deal with at home. Let the fun begin!


PS-Drove the rig home in a stiff 35-40 mph crosswind, high wind warning for the big rigs. It held the road really well, much better than the previous class A.

1. The coach door is an automotive style rotary latch...meaning it is 2 stage. It will latch and you think it is fine (which it is), but then if you put on the door you will hear a 2nd click. Just a like a car door, you can close it, but it is still a crack open. Make sure you have it pulled all the way to the 2nd stage. That is what puts all the pressure on the seal.

2. Did you turn on the Aquahot at the electronics tower? Up front in the tower you will have (2) buttons. Burner and Electric. Electric "as the manual says" is supplemental heat only. Temps above 50 degrees or just to keep it above freezing if you are plugged in. For complete heater and water, you must have the burner on as that is the most efficient way to heat.

3. Sat, correct.

4. If you open up the leveling jack manual you will find instructions to set the "null point". There is not an actual level that tells the jacks what perfectly level is...you have to tell it that. So you manually level and then set the null point. That way if you decide you like the coach to lean a bit to the driver side to shed AC condensation...then you can make that "your" level condition. As others have said...manual is best until you figure out what your level is.

[RV Randy]

The SAT works now following dip switch settings. For those that haven't been on their roof, and you don't have an over cab bunk, this is what it looks like. Open at the rear and open in the front, this is good because it offers less wind resistance. PS-Brian - You guys need to put a protective strip somewhere on the edge of the roof as an access point to lean your ladder against so you don't scratch up the paint with your ladder. I used the spot on the passenger side rear between the decorative edge of the roof and the farthest right marker light. About the same spot that factory installed ladders are usually located. I have a telescoping 16' RV ladder and I just taped some roll bar padding to the area of the ladder where it touches the roof, but then you cant collapse the ladder.

House door- I moved the striker bolt outwards to see if it was a double lock type mechanism, it locks solidly but the door would still move in and out 1/8 to 1/4 and rattle. I tried moving the bolt fully inwards. That reduces the door movement but still enough left to rattle. I removed the striker bolt and used my dremel tool with an aluminum grinding bit to grind out a very small half moon shape in the rear of the door frame (which prevents the striker bolt moving any further inward. Its about 1/2 the diameter of the threaded portion of the striker bolt. I moved the striker bolt back into this half moon and its just enough to make the door seal tightly without any movement. All of the locks still work OK, I did re-adjust the striker plate for the deadbolt to align with the new door position. All of the door rattles are now gone (driving on a bumpy gravel road) except the top of the screen door rattles a bit against the exterior door. The bottom of the screen is quiet because it has this little rubber bumper screwed into the screen door frame.


I am going to contact Brandon and see if I can buy another one of these bumpers and put it on the top, then it will be dead silent. Also, I only received 1 key for the outside TV lock, I think it is a CH507.

Still no joy on the AquaHot electric burner. The diesel part works great, the heat exchangers warm the coach up quickly. You touch the clear hose on the top of the AH unit and it gets really warm fast. But if you turn diesel off and turn on only the electric element, you get a green light by the wall switch but nothing else. I waited 4 hours in that mode with the thermostat in the furnace mode set to 75 (42 degrees outside), checked the clear hose (ice cold), heat exchangers never fired up. The thermostats work the heat pumps in the AC units just fine, so its not that. When the system is cold, the anti-freeze level is halfway between the COLD mark and the HOT mark, so its not a low fluid issue. I did notice this morning there are 2 blue wires not connected to the outside control panel plugs, I don't know if that is the issue or if those are for a 3rd zone. I noticed AH is located in Ft. Lupton, CO so I will give them a call on Monday.

How high is the big screen TV supposed to come out of the table top? After the tech readjusted it several times to get it level, it looks OK. The word "Sanyo" is just barely above the top of the counter. Discovered that if you are sitting in the recliner and try to use the TV remote, it only works 50% or less of the time. If you hold the remote right in front of the TV and point it down into the table top opening, it works fine. I'll try new batteries to be sure, but do you know where the IR sensor is on that TV? It may be partially blocked by the counter top.

And, according to Freightliner, the blue/grey tube sticking out of the firewall into the engine compartment is a condensation drain for the interior windshield/dashboard area.

[RV Randy]

Originally Posted by halla

Glad it went well. Nice to be home.

The level issue probably needs calibrated, but that is why I manual level.

I checked it again this morning, jacks were in the lowered position and it was still unlevel. So I aired up the suspension and without raising the jacks, initiated the auto level sequence again. It made very small moves and was done in 30 seconds, and now the rig is perfectly level. I moved it into the shop this afternoon since it is supposed to snow tonight. That floor is perfectly level side to side and a slight forward downslope for drainage. I left the suspension aired up and did the auto level again. Only the front jacks came down and the rig is perfectly level in all directions.

I think they set the null position at the factory with the suspension aired up. That may be an issue if the rear suspension leaks down very much.

I also had a chance to get started installing my Calibre 9 grill. I got the mid grill and the air intake grill installed and the main grill out. Then it started getting cold and the race was going to start so I put it inside.


Then I saw my decal kits laying there and couldn't resist temptation. You have to do some of the fun stuff every now and then.

[halla]

Looking good. Cant wait to install my grille.

[RV Randy]

Originally Posted by halla

Looking good. Cant wait to install my grille.

So far its going really easy, only took 30 minutes to do the air intake, mid-grill and remove the main grill. The main grill is a very straight forward bolt-in. Getting the existing guard out for the lower grill will be the most involved. Then you have the wiring but that is also pretty easy.

I was halfway thinking of removing the yellow halogen fog lights since the LED's fogs are so bright. That is the same spot factory tow hooks are installed so I was thinking about installing some of those instead.

[JRM63]

You may want to inspect the 120v connection at the AH terminal inside the access panel. Mine was not connected correctly.

[Ender]

Congrats on the new rig! Looking good!

[RV Randy]

Originally Posted by JRM63

You may want to inspect the 120v connection at the AH terminal inside the access panel. Mine was not connected correctly.

When you say "not connected correctly" does that mean poor connection no continuity or wires connected to the wrong terminals?

I just got off the phone with AH's tech support. They say if the diesel part works well i.e burner lights, pumps pump, etc, then the primary 120V wiring to the unit is correct. Next trouble shooting step is to pull the cover off and verify 120V to the input side of the high temp limit thermostat, then check the output for the same voltage. If no output voltage, there is a red reset button on top of the thermostat. They say those sometimes get bumped and tripped during install. If that doesn't work they gave me the number for an AH authorized mobile tech who is only 15 miles away, but they don't cover travel costs or labor unless a defective part is found and replaced. So I will schlep my voltmeter and tools out to the RV barn and begin testing.