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Old 05-11-2021, 11:33 PM   #1
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How to permanently fix your door keypad power!

So, on my 2018 DX3 the door keypad is powered by contacts in the door jam that come together when the door shuts. The contacts are made of steel, not stainless, and as soon as it rains they instantly rust. Ive seen it go from working fine in the AM (rain that day) to being rusted and not working by that night.

What a complex system with spring loaded contacts, why this was ever done and made so complex and inferior! I did it the way the factory should have.

Solved it using a a securitron TSB-C. Its a stainless steel wire loom with nice clean end caps. Its used on commercial doors for alarm and mag lock wiring.

The wire is secured to the footwell wall, and to the bottom of the screen door plastic. There are 2 loops that have slack to allow the doors to move. One is between the screen door and main door and the other is between the screen door and the footwell. There is enough loom in the TSB-C to do both loops if you cut it. Personally i just used it in footwell to screen door loop, and used some black mesh loom between the storm and main door. I then used push through bushings on the door and footwell to protect the wire from damage and clean up the ends.


My keypad will work perfectly every time now!
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Old 05-12-2021, 01:22 PM   #2
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Pretty neat!

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Originally Posted by johndjmix View Post
So, on my 2018 DX3 the door keypad is powered by contacts in the door jam that come together when the door shuts. The contacts are made of steel, not stainless, and as soon as it rains they instantly rust. Ive seen it go from working fine in the AM (rain that day) to being rusted and not working by that night.

What a complex system with spring loaded contacts, why this was ever done and made so complex and inferior! I did it the way the factory should have.

Solved it using a a securitron TSB-C. Its a stainless steel wire loom with nice clean end caps. Its used on commercial doors for alarm and mag lock wiring.

The wire is secured to the footwell wall, and to the bottom of the screen door plastic. There are 2 loops that have slack to allow the doors to move. One is between the screen door and main door and the other is between the screen door and the footwell. There is enough loom in the TSB-C to do both loops if you cut it. Personally i just used it in footwell to screen door loop, and used some black mesh loom between the storm and main door. I then used push through bushings on the door and footwell to protect the wire from damage and clean up the ends.

My keypad will work perfectly every time now!
Pretty neat! Another option is to use a magnetic reed relay, which is what the supplier should have used. This mature technology has been around for over a century. One part is has a wire entering each end of a hermetically sealed tube. Under the influence of an external magnetic field the wires come in contact and conduct. Here are some images:
https://www.littelfuse.com/products/...-switches.aspx This part mounts on the door frame. Any magnet could be mounted to the door itself. Here are some from the same company:
https://www.littelfuse.com/products/...actuators.aspx

(Some reed relays come with a coil wrapped around the tube for electrical activation. That is not required for this application--just the contacts in the sealed tube.)
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Old 05-12-2021, 02:41 PM   #3
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Well yes and no. A reed switch would work awesome for detecting the door is closed but this connection was to feed 12V power into the door to power the keypad.

—john
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Old 05-12-2021, 03:33 PM   #4
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Oops!

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Originally Posted by johndjmix View Post
Well yes and no. A reed switch would work awesome for detecting the door is closed but this connection was to feed 12V power into the door to power the keypad.

—john
Oops!
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Old 05-13-2021, 08:12 AM   #5
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Humm—- I have had no problems with the push button type contacts, i just clean them with sand paper then apply some gun oil.
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Old 05-13-2021, 09:50 AM   #6
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The 12 v power is for the keypad and the locking solenoid. that solenoid pulls approx 50 watts of power when actuated 4 amps. So a reed relay would not survive very long. Also your wire size has to be large enough so that there is no voltage drop.
There are other options of spring loaded contacts that are made of brass which IMO would be a better option over the plain steel contacts.

John, you implementation of the wire loom is nicely done. However, seems that it may be an opportunity to catch something on it and rip it out. There are trade offs for everything.

Ken
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Old 05-13-2021, 10:40 PM   #7
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Hey ken,

I thought about catching somthing in it before doing the mod. The thing is, with the door open, the wire is stretched flat against the door, so very little chance. It sticks out when closed but when you walk down the stairs I find everyone is on the right side, so you come no where near it.

I could have put it at the top of the door but didn’t feel like fishing the wire all the way up.

—john
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Old 05-14-2021, 05:01 AM   #8
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Used to have the same problem after it rained.

We just put some dielectric grease on the contacts (plate and pins) and haven't had a problem since - almost 6 months now.
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