I5 28SS XP - Worst Solar Panel Install Ever?

AZCreeker · 11-02-2021, 02:37 PM

Our first dry camping experience left me underwhelmed by the performance of the solar installation, especially the rear group. When we got home I got out the ladder to have a look at the panels & wiring. As soon as I stuck my head over the roof line it was immediately obvious why the rear panels were so anemic. Some genius at the factory apparently thought it was a good idea to install a panel *under* the Maxair fan hood! Anyone familiar with solar panels knows that a permanently partially shaded panel effectively becomes an open circuit and generates no significant power. What makes this install even worse is that the panels are wired in series so not only is the shaded panel useless but it kills the output of the other unshaded panel in the series string.

The spec for these panels calls for a Short Circuit Current (Isc) of 6.28A. I measured the Isc of this panel with a Clear sky, at Noon, in Phoenix Arizona at a paltry 630mA.

There is lots of room to the rear of these panels so they could be relocated *IF* it were possible without damaging the roof and/or the panels. The panels are screwed down and the entire perimeter is glued down with some very nasty adhesive.

My question for Forum readers is has anybody had experience with removing flexible panels from an I5 roof?

TitanMike · 11-02-2021, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZCreeker

Our first dry camping experience left me underwhelmed by the performance of the solar installation, especially the rear group. When we got home I got out the ladder to have a look at the panels & wiring. As soon as I stuck my head over the roof line it was immediately obvious why the rear panels were so anemic. Some genius at the factory apparently thought it was a good idea to install a panel *under* the Maxair fan hood! Anyone familiar with solar panels knows that a permanently partially shaded panel effectively becomes an open circuit and generates no significant power. What makes this install even worse is that the panels are wired in series so not only is the shaded panel useless but it kills the output of the other unshaded panel in the series string.

The spec for these panels calls for a Short Circuit Current (Isc) of 6.28A. I measured the Isc of this panel with a Clear sky, at Noon, in Phoenix Arizona at a paltry 630mA.

There is lots of room to the rear of these panels so they could be relocated *IF* it were possible without damaging the roof and/or the panels. The panels are screwed down and the entire perimeter is glued down with some very nasty adhesive.

My question for Forum readers is has anybody had experience with removing flexible panels from an I5 roof?

Considering most solar panels today have bypass diodes that route power around shaded groups of cells it may be a bigger issue than just the fan shoud covering some of the cells.

Regardless this totally wrong and I'd be looking to whoever installed this for a remedy, Factory or Dealer.

I believe the panel can be removed but it will take the patience of a Surgeon and perhaps some of the same skill. May require removal of the roof membrane in that area and replacing with new with reinforced seams.

Good luck.

BTW, what was SOC for batteries at the time of the test? If full and controller was in Float Mode this may be normal current. If using an MPPT controller current into batteries is usually about 3x the current from the PV panels.

**bclemens** · 11-02-2021, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZCreeker

Our first dry camping experience left me underwhelmed by the performance of the solar installation, especially the rear group. When we got home I got out the ladder to have a look at the panels & wiring. As soon as I stuck my head over the roof line it was immediately obvious why the rear panels were so anemic. Some genius at the factory apparently thought it was a good idea to install a panel *under* the Maxair fan hood! Anyone familiar with solar panels knows that a permanently partially shaded panel effectively becomes an open circuit and generates no significant power. What makes this install even worse is that the panels are wired in series so not only is the shaded panel useless but it kills the output of the other unshaded panel in the series string.

The spec for these panels calls for a Short Circuit Current (Isc) of 6.28A. I measured the Isc of this panel with a Clear sky, at Noon, in Phoenix Arizona at a paltry 630mA.

There is lots of room to the rear of these panels so they could be relocated *IF* it were possible without damaging the roof and/or the panels. The panels are screwed down and the entire perimeter is glued down with some very nasty adhesive.

My question for Forum readers is has anybody had experience with removing flexible panels from an I5 roof?

Why don't we just send you a new panel so you can bypass the old one altogether? (assuming it was not a dealer add)

It's really not the solar installers fault, but whoever installed the fan...we have had major MaxxAir shortage. What likely happened is that we installed the roof and panels WITHOUT the fan. We had not even been cutting the hole in the roof out since we did not know how long it would be before we got the fan and it was just an added step to seal the hole.

So the solar installer put on the panels (without a physical fan or hole to guide him), forgot about the fan. It was probably all done just waiting on the fan. Guy helping catch up shortages hopped up on the roof, installed the fan and never gave it any thought. Tested the fan, fan works. More people than you think do not understand how solar panels work. In fact, I just sent some pictures this morning to production as we had some sealant covering a tiny part of a few panels and I wanted to educate them that ALL of the black needs to be exposed.

If that is the worst thing that can happen this year, Ill take it.

Just shoot me the last (6) of your VIN and a shipping address.

AZCreeker · 11-02-2021, 06:26 PM

BClemens, Thanks for your response and explanation of how it came to pass. I fully understand the environment when it was being built and can now see how that could have happened when installs get out of normal sequence. I clearly have to retract my harsh comment about the panel installer.

PM Sent with VIN.

Capacitor · 11-02-2021, 07:37 PM

It seems it would be easier to remove the max air and install the old school crank up with fan.

**bclemens** · 11-03-2021, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZCreeker

BClemens, Thanks for your response and explanation of how it came to pass. I fully understand the environment when it was being built and can now see how that could have happened when installs get out of normal sequence. I clearly have to retract my harsh comment about the panel installer.

PM Sent with VIN.

No worries...you can post harsh statements...but I would put them towards the fan installer.

Certainly, the solar installer could/should have installed to the print (if we gave them dimensions)...but certainly if the fan is covering the panel it should at least raise a question.

We'll add some education and get you squared away.

As for the new panel, I guess I would want to see the rest of the roof. Is there another spot it can go?

**bclemens** · 11-03-2021, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capacitor

It seems it would be easier to remove the max air and install the old school crank up with fan.

True...but then you loose the MaxxAir built in cover.

toshu · 11-03-2021, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bclemens

Why don't we just send you a new panel so you can bypass the old one altogether? (assuming it was not a dealer add)

It's really not the solar installers fault, but whoever installed the fan...we have had major MaxxAir shortage. What likely happened is that we installed the roof and panels WITHOUT the fan. We had not even been cutting the hole in the roof out since we did not know how long it would be before we got the fan and it was just an added step to seal the hole.

So the solar installer put on the panels (without a physical fan or hole to guide him), forgot about the fan. It was probably all done just waiting on the fan. Guy helping catch up shortages hopped up on the roof, installed the fan and never gave it any thought. Tested the fan, fan works. More people than you think do not understand how solar panels work. In fact, I just sent some pictures this morning to production as we had some sealant covering a tiny part of a few panels and I wanted to educate them that ALL of the black needs to be exposed.

If that is the worst thing that can happen this year, Ill take it.

Just shoot me the last (6) of your VIN and a shipping address.

BC, last week I went up on a ladder to wash my panels for the first time. In any event, I did find a few panels that had sealant/Dicor on them. Let me know what the best/safest way is to remove the sealant???
Tks

61Tele · 11-03-2021, 03:57 PM

The cable management leaves a little to be desired doesn't it, especially when you take into account what one of those rigs sets you back. Not sure I'd want that wiring flapping around in the wind while tooling along down the highway. It would be fine on the roof of your garage, but on a vehicle not so much?

**bclemens** · 11-04-2021, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toshu

BC, last week I went up on a ladder to wash my panels for the first time. In any event, I did find a few panels that had sealant/Dicor on them. Let me know what the best/safest way is to remove the sealant???
Tks

Lots of sources for that, all mostly the same.

In the case of new, that you are not re-applying. Heat gun (if necessary). I would just use a small putty knife, plastic ID card, or those little brown "baking stone" scrapers from Pampered Chef to push it back.

If there is a little residue, I would try something like Goo-Gone or denatured alcohol (sparingly) on a rag.

https://upgradedhome.com/how-to-remo...%20new%20layer.
https://farmihomie.com/how-to-remove-dicor-lap-sealant/

toshu · 11-04-2021, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bclemens

Lots of sources for that, all mostly the same.

In the case of new, that you are not re-applying. Heat gun (if necessary). I would just use a small putty knife, plastic ID card, or those little brown "baking stone" scrapers from Pampered Chef to push it back.

If there is a little residue, I would try something like Goo-Gone or denatured alcohol (sparingly) on a rag.

https://upgradedhome.com/how-to-remo...%20new%20layer.
https://farmihomie.com/how-to-remove-dicor-lap-sealant/

The dicor is not extra on the edge but rather in the middle of the panels....as though it dripped from the application. So....which of the methods would be best so as not to damage the cells?
Thanks

**bclemens** · 11-04-2021, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toshu

The dicor is not extra on the edge but rather in the middle of the panels....as though it dripped from the application. So....which of the methods would be best so as not to damage the cells?
Thanks

same

Heat gun (if necessary). I would just use a small putty knife, plastic ID card, or those little brown "baking stone" scrapers from Pampered Chef to push it back.

If there is a little residue, I would try something like Goo-Gone or denatured alcohol (sparingly) on a rag

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