Install light on back wall

[bclemens]

My personal thoughts? I carry a Dewalt work light that uses the same batteries as my tools so I can take it/place it/direct it where ever I need it. I also prefer LED's.

Seems like a lot of effort already...but then I don't know what you are using it for.

[SSweet]

Originally Posted by distracto

Yes, I figured as much. Keeping it tight to the back on the roof would eliminate any cut off or shadowing from the roof line. There would be plenty of beef there to mount to as well.

Neat looking light though, haven't seen a remote controlled one before.

There is the element of "pick your poison" so to speak. Drill in to the roof...you really have to ensure they are sealed and stay on top of those seals. With a shroud, it is even more holes on the roof.

With the back corner...it will be a few holes, but I won't have to worry about it getting torn off by a limb or such...and sealing is much easier/reliable.

The light I actually have is an LED, wide angled and VERY bright. It is great for what I need. The remote is very cool. Only thing..they are very expensive.

[SSweet]

@bclemens...would you put the light on the roof or the back wall in the top corner?

[bclemens]

I would do neither.

[kenandterry]

Originally Posted by bclemens

I would do neither.

Brian has offered his input from within Dynamax.
Post #7 showed where there is supposedly some bracing on the back wall.
You seem determined to mount your light, so with what you’ve gathered here, it’ll be your final decision.

Good luck.

[FOURWHL]

I'll offer one other suggestion:

Maybe instead of trying to hang a heavyish light bar off of fiberglass it'd be better to look at led strips or tail lights that can be either affixed to or in the fiberglass. I have some standard round tail lights from a trucking supply on my jeep that can easily light a dark trail when I put it in reverse.

[SSweet]

Originally Posted by kenandterry

Brian has offered his input from within Dynamax.
Post #7 showed where there is supposedly some bracing on the back wall.
You seem determined to mount your light, so with what you’ve gathered here, it’ll be your final decision.

Good luck.

Ken, with all due respect, I don't know you nor do I understand why you are the controller of the flow of ideas on this forum - especially since that is the genuine purpose of it. I am not violating any rules or guidelines of this forum, but simply inquiring on ideas and the best recommendations from the factory representative who has so kindly provided his input...which I asked for and appreciate greatly. I just purchased this new rig, customizing it to my personal needs and want to do so in the best proper way.

I have used this light for my purposes for over 15 years. It works quite well and serves many purposes while I am alone and in the dark including backing in to campsites, launching my boat and working on my boat. As a side note, perhaps others might find this idea useful for them.

If you have some genuine input - terrific...please feel free to chime in. As for control, I don't think it is your prerogative or responsibility.

Perhaps some others have ideas that I have not thought of...and I appreciate that input.

Have a great weekend.

[SSweet]

Originally Posted by FOURWHL

I'll offer one other suggestion:

Maybe instead of trying to hang a heavyish light bar off of fiberglass it'd be better to look at led strips or tail lights that can be either affixed to or in the fiberglass. I have some standard round tail lights from a trucking supply on my jeep that can easily light a dark trail when I put it in reverse.

Thanks...that is a great idea! The 28ss has some pretty bright LED lights near the hitch that can be turned on with a switch in the cab. I hope to give those a try to see if they do what I need when I am in boat launching situations.

I inquired about ideas like yours before taking delivery...but decided to wait to see if i really need them.

I use this light when I need to back in to campsites with my boat at night as well. When I back in, it allows be to light up the entire area while in cab. It has saved my bacon a few times when swinging the boat.

Thanks for the idea!

[johndjmix]

Get a clear Dunarri Pierce XL from Dunarri. Set it to steady. Can be attached with VHB tape and is insanely bright. Problem solved.

—john

[gw1800]

I agree with Seadog. A surface mount LED floodlight.

https://www.etrailer.com/Work-Lights...s/OPT64FR.html. Only weighs 1lb. Could be mounted with VHB.

How do you plan on wiring the light?

[Stingingfork]

Originally Posted by SSweet

I have a Zircon stud finder...don't know if that is what you mean by "good" though...

Zircon does make one that will work with aluminum since not just any stud finder will pick up non-ferrous metal (Non-ferrous metals are alloys or metals that do not contain any appreciable amounts of iron). I purchased Zircon's H4 which works with aluminum and I was told by a FR rep. that on my particular camper (NoBo) the aluminum studs are only placed where they are structurally required and not spaced on certain centers like my home studs are.

[gw1800]

Originally Posted by Stingingfork

Zircon does make one that will work with aluminum since not just any stud finder will pick up non-ferrous metal (Non-ferrous metals are alloys or metals that do not contain any appreciable amounts of iron). I purchased Zircon's H4 which works with aluminum and I was told by a FR rep. that on my particular camper (NoBo) the aluminum studs are only placed where they are structurally required and not spaced on certain centers like my home studs are.

Sounds like the FR rep was trying to justify the fact that they put the studs wherever they feel like. When I had my FR toy hauler, the ramp cracked right in the middle. FR told me they don't reinforce the ramp to save weight . Just thin plywood and foam construction and then rated the ramp at 1500 lbs.

Warranty wouldn't over it since I "overloaded" the ramp. An 800 lb motorcycle and a 175lb rider. Less than 2/3 of the rated capacity.

Some of the interior wall panels did not line up with the studs.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by gw1800

Sounds like the FR rep was trying to justify the fact that they put the studs wherever they feel like.

Some of the interior wall panels did not line up with the studs.

Um, no. I can't speak for all divisions, but a vacuum bonded wall does not need the wall board to line up with a stud.

Unlike traditional residential construction, these walls are glued in a sandwich (like plywood) and put in a press. You could literally build it WITHOUT studs in many cases. There is metal framing (primarily for windows and doors) and some structural loads, all of the voids are filled with block foam and then its all glued together. Because there are no staples/nails to attach the panels there is no need for a stud at the seams.

At about the 4 minute mark you can see some of this. Any laminated product is built the same way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CBS-DuO5-U&t=9s

[dedobias]

I've used the following to mount a back up camera on my rear door in the middle where there is no framing and it has held well. After I drilled the specified holes, I buttered the holes with dicor with a little excess around the pattern I marked the holes with showing the outer outline of the bracket. Just inside those lines across the top and sides . I laid a bead so the water that drains across it is shed away from the holes and the bracket. Once the rivits were put in I wiped the excess for nice smooth bead across the top and sides. You could also use butyl tape. I've had a couple of people bump into it and it hasn't budged. The weight was obviously not as high as yours. If you could get one rivit (two would be best near the top) through the framing with more through the fiberglass, I think you would be good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-551LSD-...802853&sr=8-18

[gw1800]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Um, no. I can't speak for all divisions, but a vacuum bonded wall does not need the wall board to line up with a stud.

Unlike traditional residential construction, these walls are glued in a sandwich (like plywood) and put in a press. You could literally build it WITHOUT studs in many cases. There is metal framing (primarily for windows and doors) and some structural loads, all of the voids are filled with block foam and then its all glued together. Because there are no staples/nails to attach the panels there is no need for a stud at the seams.

At about the 4 minute mark you can see some of this. Any laminated product is built the same way.

That may be true on the higher end units. Stick and tin models do not have laminated sidewalls.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by gw1800

That may be true on the higher end units. Stick and tin models do not have laminated sidewalls.

Correct, that is why I mentioned "any laminated" product.

[Danhikeski]

I would suggest a few small 4LED “off-road” lights. I added 2 of them to the outside of my pop up. Any automotive parts store have them. Well worth it and less power drain and much smaller/lighter. Only requires a ~1/2” hole for mounting and another even smaller hole for power…