Isata 3 - 7 Way Tow Plug

[milkman55]

Has anyone hooked up their towing and used the #4 12V connector or the #2 Trailer Brake connections? I assume the 12V is connected and hot? Where is the Trailer Brake terminated on the RV? Some have used this line to hardwire a brake light to indicate the towed car brake system is engaged. Was thinking about doing the same.

Starting the install tomorrow of all the components on my 2014 Honda CRV.

[Sandiegodoug]

Dealer put in controller
Plugs into isata 3 just like solera
Works perfect
Runs the jeeps electric brake booster too

[xgarys]

Originally Posted by milkman55

Has anyone hooked up their towing and used the #4 12V connector or the #2 Trailer Brake connections? I assume the 12V is connected and hot? Where is the Trailer Brake terminated on the RV? Some have used this line to hardwire a brake light to indicate the towed car brake system is engaged. Was thinking about doing the same.

Starting the install tomorrow of all the components on my 2014 Honda CRV.

It's not terminated. It's laying loose under the drivers seat. The color is blue as I recall and the end is insulated with electrical tape.

The 12V is indeed hot.

[milkman55]

Originally Posted by xgarys

It's not terminated. It's laying loose under the drivers seat. The color is blue as I recall and the end is insulated with electrical tape.

The 12V is indeed hot.

Just the info I needed xgarys, thanks!

I got the baseplate on today and plan to start on the light wiring and the SMI Duo brakes tomorrow. I was hoping the blue wire was laying around in the cab as I wanted to hardwire an indicator light for the cab to come on whenever the toad brakes are engaged. The SMI has a light that hangs on the rear view mirror, but I don’t want to have to look in my camera to see if the brakes are engaged.

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by milkman55

Has anyone hooked up their towing and used the #4 12V connector or the #2 Trailer Brake connections? I assume the 12V is connected and hot? Where is the Trailer Brake terminated on the RV? Some have used this line to hardwire a brake light to indicate the towed car brake system is engaged. Was thinking about doing the same.

Starting the install tomorrow of all the components on my 2014 Honda CRV.

I get confused easily. I get that you are modifying the CRV to be a toad. What brake system are you going to use such as Patriot. Roadmaster? And how are you planning to run the brake, turn, and running lights to the back of the toad?

I believe the blue wire mention is for a brake controller that would be mounted on the TV dash. This would be used if you planned to tow a trailer with electric brakes.

Your TV is already wired to the 7-pin for what I believe you are trying to do. Be aware that the center pin feeds 12 volts to what is being towed. The center pin is only powered when the TV ignition is on. You will be using a 7-pin to 5-pin adapter umbiical cord to the toad. This is where we need a bit more info as to what system you anticipate using on the CRV

A toad brake controller is most often powered by the toad battery. There is a remote that goes on the TV dash that tells the driver what the Patriot brake system is doing and it can manually apply the toad brakes. A battery tender can be added and wired to the center pin of the 7-pin connector. That would keep the toad battery charged. I used a RVBrake battery tender. It was reasonable and simple install.

[pickeljr]

Originally Posted by PenJoe

I get confused easily. I get that you are modifying the CRV to be a toad. What brake system are you going to use such as Patriot. Roadmaster? And how are you planning to run the brake, turn, and running lights to the back of the toad?

I believe the blue wire mention is for a brake controller that would be mounted on the TV dash. This would be used if you planned to tow a trailer with electric brakes.

Your TV is already wired to the 7-pin for what I believe you are trying to do. Be aware that the center pin feeds 12 volts to what is being towed. The center pin is only powered when the TV ignition is on. You will be using a 7-pin to 5-pin adapter umbiical cord to the toad. This is where we need a bit more info as to what system you anticipate using on the CRV

A toad brake controller is most often powered by the toad battery. There is a remote that goes on the TV dash that tells the driver what the Patriot brake system is doing and it can manually apply the toad brakes. A battery tender can be added and wired to the center pin of the 7-pin connector. That would keep the toad battery charged. I used a RVBrake battery tender. It was reasonable and simple install.

I towed a 24 ft boat and trailer for 3000 miles and did nt have any trouble by using a 7 pin connection thru the trailer with electric brakes and the system worked great. I could feel the trailer brakes working when I put on the brakes. Isata 3 2018

[milkman55]

I am using the SMI Stay N Play Duo which is a permenant install. It will use some 12v to power the vacuum assist. I got an RVI Battery Charger to hook to the 12v feed from the MH.

The idea on the trailer brake controller blue wire is to repurpose that as a brake monitor light coming from the SMI brakes on the toad. Nothing to do with trailer brakes, just a wire that is already ran to the 7 way plug.

For toad lights I used separate bulbs in the taillights and ran the wiring harness underneath the chassis. I didn’t want to tie into the Honda wiring via diodes, just keep it simple.

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by milkman55

I am using the SMI Stay N Play Duo which is a permenant install. It will use some 12v to power the vacuum assist. I got an RVI Battery Charger to hook to the 12v feed from the MH.

The idea on the trailer brake controller blue wire is to repurpose that as a brake monitor light coming from the SMI brakes on the toad. Nothing to do with trailer brakes, just a wire that is already ran to the 7 way plug.

For toad lights I used separate bulbs in the taillights and ran the wiring harness underneath the chassis. I didn’t want to tie into the Honda wiring via diodes, just keep it simple.

Though you may already have these schematics, here they are. Make sure you are following the back side of the plug schematic for the toad plug. Our setup for the Jeep Liberty used the 7-pin to 5-pin configurations, We used the Blue Ox wiring kit to add the lights within the Jeep OEM tail lights as it appears you are doing. Once again, remember that the 12 volt center pin on the TV activates with the ignition. Ignition off, no power.

I'm not acquainted with the permanent toad brake setup and if there is a reserve tank, vacuum or compressed. So, this suggestion may not pertain. Locate the power wire that activates the power booster when the brakes are being applied and then the blue wire to an LED dash light on the TV. If you want to be certain the toad brakes are being applied. you may want to run the wire to the brake pedal switch provided the wire is still active with your system. It would seem, though, that if the brake light switch worked, the toad's original brake lights would come on. Or, you may be able to mount a separate switch at some mechanical point to indicate the brakes are being applied.

Determine below which umbilical plugs you have. I would think it would be the heavy duty.

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q...tion&FORM=IGRE

[FFred]

Breaking on towed trailers is done with electric, tho some have a surge cylinder that uses hyd on usually boat trailers.

Many towds use a pendulum in a box that then adjusts an electric motor to push from the seat (where the box is mounted) against the brake pedal.

Any DC from the towing vehicle simply recharges the towds battery , so the system can operate and not run down the towd battery.

These can be setup with a break away sensor , so a loose toad will stop it self..

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by FFred

Breaking on towed trailers is done with electric, tho some have a surge cylinder that uses hyd on usually boat trailers.Many towds use a pendulum (

accelerometer senses the degree of braking and adjusts the toad braking proportionally)

in a box that then adjusts an electric motor to push from the seat (where the box is mounted) against the brake pedal. Any DC from the towing vehicle simply recharges the towds battery , so the system can operate and not run down the towd battery.

These can be setup with a break away sensor , so a loose toad will stop it self..

These must be set up with a break away switch at the base plate.

Ran across this which is pretty informative as to differences in the portable units.

https://www.hitchweb.com/blog/post/2...ter-even-brake