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Old 07-18-2021, 10:15 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Mikeytheb View Post
Quite often I have found when someone is right (both wheels secured the same lug nuts) they are picked first.
Even 18 wheelers only one set of lug nuts per wheel.
Well that’s not exactly true. 18 wheelers have an inner and outer lug nut on every stud on the rear duels.
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Old 07-18-2021, 10:51 AM   #22
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Next time your near a truck stop take a close look. Both wheels mount face to face on stud and one wheel nut to secure, changed many a tire.
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Old 07-18-2021, 11:06 AM   #23
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I have had a lot of experience in the trucking industry and can not stress how important it is to do a visual inspection of wheels and tires. it is called a pre- trip inspection and done every time before heading out on a trip on commercial vehicles regardless of size. It is the law where I live.

My motorhome has shiny wheel covers which I remove and then inspect wheels for loose lugs nuts, cracked rimes. This is done at least every time before heading out on a long trip and sometimes during the trip. Takes just a few minutes.

I would strongly encourage everyone to take the time to do this.
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Old 07-18-2021, 02:02 PM   #24
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The wheel studs on my Cedar Creek broke and my wheel went flying across the highway. The tech who repaired and put on a new hub, said the stud broke as a result of manufacture defect.
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Old 07-18-2021, 02:52 PM   #25
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I have had a lot of experience in the trucking industry and can not stress how important it is to do a visual inspection of wheels and tires. it is called a pre- trip inspection and done every time before heading out on a trip on commercial vehicles regardless of size. It is the law where I live.

My motorhome has shiny wheel covers which I remove and then inspect wheels for loose lugs nuts, cracked rimes. This is done at least every time before heading out on a long trip and sometimes during the trip. Takes just a few minutes.

I would strongly encourage everyone to take the time to do this.
You raise a few important issues: Not all RV hub caps can be easily removed. the Isata 5s are beasts and do not always go back the way they come off. And then there is the need for a Torque wrench that can do at least 150 ft lbs and a deep socket to clear the wheel hub. An extension is also a possibility but putting 130 lbs through an extension creates lots of variables in the actual torque setting. With a good TQ wrench thats about $200 in mandatory tools that I doubt these new Covid RV arrivals have even considered or even advised by their dealer or manufacturer. I have never seen anything in any OM about this other than to "check" or "retorque" the wheel nuts. Like its supposed to just happen or that any shop will drop tools and come out an do it for you. This does not happen these days. Make an appointment is all I hear.
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Old 07-18-2021, 06:00 PM   #26
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You raise a few important issues: Not all RV hub caps can be easily removed. the Isata 5s are beasts and do not always go back the way they come off. And then there is the need for a Torque wrench that can do at least 150 ft lbs and a deep socket to clear the wheel hub. An extension is also a possibility but putting 130 lbs through an extension creates lots of variables in the actual torque setting. With a good TQ wrench thats about $200 in mandatory tools that I doubt these new Covid RV arrivals have even considered or even advised by their dealer or manufacturer. I have never seen anything in any OM about this other than to "check" or "retorque" the wheel nuts. Like its supposed to just happen or that any shop will drop tools and come out an do it for you. This does not happen these days. Make an appointment is all I hear.
Not all of us rv owners are up to doing this ourselves. As a woman in her 60’s who travels solo in my Solera. I don’t intend to carry a torque wrench. I see the younger, strong men have a tough enough time removing the dually’s, and the spare tire underneath is a b*tch to remove, horrible design.
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Old 07-19-2021, 09:00 AM   #27
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Not all of us rv owners are up to doing this ourselves. As a woman in her 60’s who travels solo in my Solera. I don’t intend to carry a torque wrench. I see the younger, strong men have a tough enough time removing the dually’s, and the spare tire underneath is a b*tch to remove, horrible design.
I hear you but this means one of 2 things: either you are fatalist and will allow the inevitable tire failure to be what it will be and trust in all; or else you have to do some things to prepare for it that does not involve heavy lifting. Some of these are:
1) Take the vehicle to a tire store and have the spare checked regularly (probably twice a year at least) for age, condition and inflation and that the release bolts have not seized/rusted.
2) Have at least 2 and possibly 3 recovery services subscribed.
3) Have at least 3 and possibly 4 emergency triangles to place behind your vehicle while awaiting the long delayed recovery team
4) Identify the place you will store your blown tire/wheel that is not the spare holder. When these things implode they usually take on proportions that will not fit in the cozy storage well. Moving Blankets are a help here.
5) Always travel with the fuel to run your generator/furnace for up to 12 hours while waiting for the recovery person in extreme temperatures.
6) Replace your tires at 5 years irrespective; check inflation (including the spare) every day and inspect the tread for cupping and the sidewall for cracks especially where the tread meets the sidewall.

Some of this stuff is basic but being immobilized on either an Interstate or a 2 lane is dangerous and if you have physical restrictions, your options decline. And the longer you are there the more dangerous it becomes. I have had someone try to detach my trailer while I was immobilized!
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Old 07-19-2021, 09:25 AM   #28
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+1 What Mike wrote.

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Old 07-19-2021, 10:01 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by mtnlvr View Post
Not all of us rv owners are up to doing this ourselves. As a woman in her 60’s who travels solo in my Solera. I don’t intend to carry a torque wrench. I see the younger, strong men have a tough enough time removing the dually’s, and the spare tire underneath is a b*tch to remove, horrible design.
I strongly agree with what others have indicated about inspecting the tires, wheels, lug nuts (torque), tire pressure, etc prior to taking a trip. Cheap insurance that can help to avoid lots of problems, delays and complete disasters in some cases...

If you are unable to do the inspection yourself, I would highly recommend finding a qualified shop that can do this for you on a regular basis.

As for the spare tire location on many motorhome chassis manufacturers, everyone has an opinion on the location, I guess. For me personally, I was glad to see where the spare was when I first got my MBS based Isata 3. Having owned Ford trucks all my life, having the spare located underneath is second nature, but IMO there are many benefits.

It keeps the weight down low and centered on the wheels just back from the axle, it's out of the way and not getting blasted by UV 24/7, it's very secure, doesn't interfere with the use of the trailer hitch as is the case with some mounted on the back, etc.

I agree that it is more difficult to get to, but it is probably something you will rarely if ever need to get to if you change your tires every 5 or 6 years. Since it sounds like you won't be changing the tires yourself anyway, getting to it will be the job of the roadside repair person.
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Old 07-19-2021, 10:31 AM   #30
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I do a pre-trip inspection on my coach and trailer that includes lug nuts, tire pressure’s and so on. Especially on the trailer including wheel bearings.

As far as having a flat tire on the road I would never consider changing it myself even though I’m capable and have the tools and equipment to do it. It’s just to dangerous, especially these days with all the distracted driving going on out there. Also I would do my best to limp to the nearest exit for safety reasons. I figure the damage is done a little and a little more is better than getting killed.
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Old 07-19-2021, 11:01 AM   #31
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Loose lug nuts can stress the lugs to the point they break. In this case it seems the old or low pressure or overloaded tire blowout was the trigger and the jammed wheels sheered the bolts.

On my trailer I can easlily check he lug torque. I recall it's 90 lbf-ft. On my Expedition, though it's somewhere around 160 lbf-ft which is beyond my ability other than standing on the end of a 12 inch breaker bar.

No excuse for old tires. 6 - 8 years and they're aged out despite plenty of tread. I learned this the hard way.

No excuse for running ST trailer tires at less than maximum cold pressure as embossed on the side of the tire. There is no advantage running them at lower pressure even if they'll support the trailer's weight at a lower pressure.

Morning of every trip I verify lug torque and tire pressure.

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Old 07-19-2021, 02:07 PM   #32
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I hear you but this means one of 2 things: either you are fatalist and will allow the inevitable tire failure to be what it will be and trust in all; or else you have to do some things to prepare for it that does not involve heavy lifting. Some of these are:
1) Take the vehicle to a tire store and have the spare checked regularly (probably twice a year at least) for age, condition and inflation and that the release bolts have not seized/rusted.
2) Have at least 2 and possibly 3 recovery services subscribed.
3) Have at least 3 and possibly 4 emergency triangles to place behind your vehicle while awaiting the long delayed recovery team
4) Identify the place you will store your blown tire/wheel that is not the spare holder. When these things implode they usually take on proportions that will not fit in the cozy storage well. Moving Blankets are a help here.
5) Always travel with the fuel to run your generator/furnace for up to 12 hours while waiting for the recovery person in extreme temperatures.
6) Replace your tires at 5 years irrespective; check inflation (including the spare) every day and inspect the tread for cupping and the sidewall for cracks especially where the tread meets the sidewall.

Some of this stuff is basic but being immobilized on either an Interstate or a 2 lane is dangerous and if you have physical restrictions, your options decline. And the longer you are there the more dangerous it becomes. I have had someone try to detach my trailer while I was immobilized!
I always have the tire shop check/fill my tires ( and spare) before every trip. I replace my tires on a regular basis ( I don’t ever risk going on the cheap hoping to get some extra mileage from them.) After that I pray for a safe trip. I just completed a three week trip with over 3,000 miles without an issue, thankfully.
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Old 07-22-2021, 08:18 PM   #33
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FYI-When I got new tires for my F150 at Costco, they have you come back after the first 25 miles to check the torque on each lug nut. So , I suspect it is a good practice to do it yourself if your tire shop does not do this.
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Old 07-22-2021, 08:30 PM   #34
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Well that’s not exactly true. 18 wheelers have an inner and outer lug nut on every stud on the rear duels.
This would be incorrect. The lugs you see on the outside wheel are the only lugs on tractor trailer duals.
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Old 07-22-2021, 08:33 PM   #35
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Last I checked both dually were held on with the same lug nuts
Yes you're right they are
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Old 07-22-2021, 09:00 PM   #36
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Sidewall separation won’t cause wheels to come off, if the nuts hadn’t come off the wheels would still be attached to the axle. 5000 miles after installing and a re-torque should normally be sufficient, makes you wonder what really happened.
Can’t remember if it was said the condition of the studs, or if they sheared off?
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Old 07-22-2021, 10:28 PM   #37
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This would be incorrect. The lugs you see on the outside wheel are the only lugs on tractor trailer duals.
Actually he is correct, to some degree. Budd rims use 2 lugs, an inner and an outer. I have changed a few in my time, and it takes a very BIG impact wrench and socket set to do it, 1" drive at the least.



The inner rim is secured with the inner nut, then the outer rim is secured to the inner nut with an outer nut. The nuts have reversed threads to each other.

I doubt many trucks still use this system, I think Oshkosh still does, but they are out there, just not for the trucks we drive.


For the OP, one thing you should do if not too late is inspect the sheared studs. If you see any sort of corrosion on the face where it was sheared off, then it is possible the studs were either over torqued and stretched or damaged in some way. Corrosion will form where the stud becomes cracked from stretching, usually at the base where it meets the hub.
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Old 07-23-2021, 01:29 AM   #38
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ss door pushed out, etc. Side Note, after incident we discovered Continental Fourseason Vanco tire had sidewall separation - second time we've had sidewall failure with these tires!



In over 50 years of driving I've never lost a wheel like this. Has anyone else had an unexplained wheel failure similar to this on their Sprinter?
The Vanco is also used in Europe often, so I am interested in the reason of your sidewallfailures.
Was there a bulge on sidewall?
Can be that something went wrong with mounting, and the sidewall was damaged.

In Europe some sises have higher maxload then the American LT version, strange , because to laws of nature it should be the same. I am still trying to figure out why the difference
For instance 225/75R16
LT loadindex 115/112 AT 80 PSI
C- tyre loadindex 116/114 AT 69 PSI
LI 118/116 AT 77 PSI, LI 121/120 AT 83 PSI.

Will you give me your sises and loadindex or maxload and loadrange or pressure behind AT?
Mayby overheating if " european " could gave played a part.

Then also look for 2 pressures, AT pressure( called reference-pressure) direct behind Service-descriptions ( loadindex and speedcode), and behind long maxload story " max inflation pressure" of 10 psi higher ( is also cold pressure)
This is what Continental groop often gives on sidewall in Europe.
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Old 07-23-2021, 05:54 AM   #39
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This would be incorrect. The lugs you see on the outside wheel are the only lugs on tractor trailer duals.
When did they quit using inner and outer lug nuts? My 73 Kenworth and my Great Dane trailer both used them. I didn’t know that they still didn’t. It’s been a while since I was an owner operator.
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Old 07-23-2021, 07:49 AM   #40
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This is why you are the last pick in kickball.
OK, that's just too funny!
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