Isata 3 Freedom Edition - Upgrades and Modification Thread

[Judge64]

One last post about my Starklink installation.....


I decided that I didn't want to remove the bike rack or to bar if towing the Jeep to put up the FlagPole Buddy Pole Kit for my Starlink Dish.

I decided to install a Camper Bumper Mounted RV Hitch to the Isata 3 Hitch. This allows me to use Starlink without taking anything off the hitch. I did have to go to Tractor Supply to buy some shorter Grade 8 bolts because these bumper hitches are meant to be installed on a 4" x 4" bumper and the ISata 3 hitch is 2.5" x 2.5".

I did get lucky and everything just fit with the spare tire carrier installed. The ethernet port I mounted in the tank drain box also works out perfectly. As soon as I get the adapters I posted previously, I am going to order an exact length of ethernet cable that will run from the ethernet port to the Dish on the pole so I don't have all the excess coiled up on the ground.

Here is the link to the Bumper Hitch that I installed.......

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00174ZHGU...roduct_details

[Judge64]

I'm thinking about another potential modification with the fresh water tank.

We are on a short 3-day trip and staying at an Army Corps Campground and have 30A but no water or sewer. I filled the fresh water tank to full..... until it started coming out the vent / overflow. We went through some small mountains in southwestern PA so there were a lot of steep inclines. When we got to the campground, I noticed the fresh water level was down quite a bit.

I noticed this a few wakes ago during a boondocking trip to my inlaws but not as pronounced since there were few hills then on the hour drive.

Having the overflow / vent at the top of the tank and then exiting through the floor is allowing the tank to drain when going down inclines. In my Super C the vent was higher than the tank and exited out the side of the coach with the gravity fill port.

I'm tempted to put another 1/2" electric ball valve into the vent / overflow line w/ a wireless switch so I can close it while traveling and then open it when parked. The vent has to be opened because of the vacuum effect when pumping water so the 1/2" electric ball valve might be the best solution to temporarily close it while traveling.

We don't do a lot of boondocking but our first couple of trips have been that way and I have noticed this happening. I may just live with it the way it is but the 1/2" electric ball valve would be a solution. US Solid makes ball valves that are normally closed and normally open. I got a normally closed valve for the fresh water tank drain so I would get one that is normally open for the vent / overflow and then close it when traveling.

[Judge64]

Well..... I have decided to install another 1/2" electric all valve and wireless switch in the fresh water tank vent / overflow drain.

We camped 3 days with electric only. I mentioned in the previous post that I filled the tank full and until it came out the overflow. When we got to the campground the fresh water tank was down to 75 - 80%.

We actually ran out of water this morning right when breaking camp. The grey tank was at 55% and the black tank was at 45%. That puts the water usage range around 30 - 35 gallons. That means I lost about 15 - 20 gallons of water during the hilly commute with it coming out the vent / overflow drain.

We are camping with full hook-ups the next two weekends but I ordered the hardware to install so I can close the vent / overflow drain while traveling and open it once we get to our destination whenever I need a full tank of water. I'll post pictures once I get it installed.

[Judge64]

I just completed the installation of my Powered Ventilation System for the battery compartment on the Freedom Edition and I am very pleased with how it turned out. It couldn't be much cleaner than if it came from the factory the way I installed it.

I cut a ~3" hole in the battery compartment under the Solar Disconnect Switch using a 3" hole saw for cutting steel. I then installed a 3" soffit vent with a built-in bug screen into the hole and used adhesive sealant to fasten it in place and help prevent water intrusion. I then connected it to an Attwood bilge blower with a section of 3" aluminum vent hose. I was able to mount the bilge blower using one of the screws holding one of the batteries in place.

Then under the bed I installed a 12V Thermostat Controlled Switch. I tapped into the power for the CO Detector since there is nothing else on that circuit and the wiring was the gauge that could easily support the application. The bilge blower draws about 2.5 - 3 amps. The switch also comes with a temperature sensor with long leads that easily went into the battery compartment through the ventilation hole under the bed for monitoring the temperature of the compartment. I have the temperature sensor attached to the outside battery with some adhesive and dangling in the air. It reads within 1 degree of my wireless temperature monitor so close enough for government work.

The 12V Thermostat Controlled Switch that I used has some very flexible programming. I first set the target temperature to 90F. I then set the ON temperature to 95F. So once the temperature reaches 95F, the bilge blower will run until the temperature reaches 90F again. I may need to adjust those settings a bit since this system is designed to remove hot air from the battery compartment and not necessarily provide cold air to significantly cool the compartment. Although if there is cool air inside the coach, some of that will get pulled into the battery compartment by the bilge blower.

To test the system I turned off shore power and started the A/C. I had the coach in the garage and the ambient temperature was about 80F. The battery compartment door was closed and the starting temperature of the compartment was about 87F. Once the A/C was running the temperature rose to 95F in about 10 minutes.

I recorded a video showing the switch turning the bilge blower on at 95F and then cooling the compartment down by almost a degree in less than 2 minutes:

https://youtu.be/_7OnQjaoSfg


Here is a video showing a pretty good airflow through the vent in the battery compartment when the bilge blower is running:

https://youtu.be/QNSyAa3ej1o




Now I will say the bilge blower is a bit noisy. You will hear it kick on in the video when the temp hits 95F even though the A/C is running with a low fan speed.... but I did have the bed compartment open as well for the video. I'm not sure you will want it running at night since it is under the bed area. But hopefully at night things are cooler and the compartment doesn't need the powered ventilation. If anything there now an opening to the outside so hot air can escape or cooler air can enter on its own. And now that I have this completed I will use spray foam to seal up the egress where the wiring runs out of the battery compartment.

Yesterday on the ride home from a trip it was 80F and cloudy. I had the A/C running while we were driving and when we got home to unload. The battery compartment was about 107F so I am hoping this ventilation system will keep the temps under 100F most of the time and well under 105F - 110F in very hot climates..... but time will tell. We have a trip planned the next two weekends in OH and PA. We'll have full hookups but it is going to be near 90 and humid according to the forecast so I'll get some run time over the next couple weeks running the A/C while driving and when the batteries are charging after we plug into shore power.


Here are the components I used for this project:

Attwood Bilge Blower

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O0DE9E...roduct_details

3" Insulated Aluminum Duct Hose w/ Hose Clamps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WCY715H...t_details&th=1

3" Soffit Vent with Bug Screen

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077HJC5T9...roduct_details

12V Thermostat Controlled Switch

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011VGAPOC...roduct_details

2-15/16" Hole Saw for Metal

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3XL2BX9...roduct_details




Here are a few pictures of the project as well:

[bclemens]

What about putting a small round vent in the bed base? Then the bilge pump in theory could draw air through the vent hole, from the conditioned space?

Let the bilge pump draw air from the living space into the top of the compartment. Then just leave the open soffit vent as passive (to let air escape)

[Judge64]

Originally Posted by bclemens

What about putting a small round vent in the bed base? Then the bilge pump in theory could draw air through the vent hole, from the conditioned space?

I don't think it is necessary but it couldn't hurt. The Attwood Bilge Blower draws 120CFM at 12V and 145CFM at 13.6V. With the LiFePO4 batteries, the voltage should be about 13.6V most of the time.... at least on shore power, in the sun or when driving.

A vacuum should be created by the blower since the compartment is relatively small.... if you watch the second video you will see and hear the airflow moving at a good clip. Since the hole under the bed is the only open place, it should pull cooler air from the living quarters and into the battery compartment.

At least that is my theory!

Now some of the guys have put a 12V computer fan over the hole under the bed as a temporary way to keep things cooler. It certainly wouldn't hurt.

In my case, I have so much other electrical stuff under the bed now, I'm not sure I could fit a 3" 12V fan there!!!!

I did this project for about $80 and it wasn't too difficult for the peace of mind.

[bclemens]

I like the concept...now I am going to google some large format liquid cooled PC's.

[bclemens]

We ccan have heated tanks in the winter...what about cooled bay in the summer?

https://www.amazon.com/Thermoelectri...1&gad_source=1

[Judge64]

Originally Posted by bclemens

I like the concept...now I am going to google some large format liquid cooled PC's.

And I just proved my vacuum theory.....

Took a small piece of tissue paper and dropped it near the hole under the bed and it got sucked right into the hole.

And this test just resulted in my first improvement to the system. I need to put a screen on the intake of the bilge blower to prevent anything from getting sucked into the fan and / or sucked through and blocking flow through the bug screen!

[Judge64]

Originally Posted by bclemens

We ccan have heated tanks in the winter...what about cooled bay in the summer?

https://www.amazon.com/Thermoelectri...1&gad_source=1

That is an excellent approach!

You just spawned an old memory from my days in the Chemistry lab where we used Peltier (thermoelectric) Coolers.

Installing that under the bed to feed cool air with my bilge blower concept would likely cool that compartment down several degrees.

And your find would only take the project up to ~$115!

[llwill]

Is the 12A power draw worth it?

[Judge64]

Originally Posted by llwill

Is the 12A power draw worth it?

You misread it.... it says 12V..... not 12A.


Here is the section in my writw-up that talks about the current draw of the bilge blower. It is only 2.5A -3A



I tapped into the power for the CO Detector since there is nothing else on that circuit and the wiring was the gauge that could easily support the application. The bilge blower draws about 2.5 - 3 amps.

[llwill]

12A for the solid state cooling. They are very power hungry.

[Judge64]

Originally Posted by llwill

12A for the solid state cooling. They are very power hungry.

Ahhhh..... my bad..... and missed that in the specs..... and its a fair question.



The most heat will be generated when the Inverter is generating AC or the Charger is charging. That is when my bilge blower will run most.... and when a cooler would also activate. The batteries will generate some heat but not as much as the Inverter / Charger.

If Inverting while driving, then the 12A shouldn't be much of an issue with the 280A alternator charging. When the batteries are charging under shore power, the current draw would also be a non-issue.

Now when boondocking and running the A/C... or stove.... or oven, the 12A could come at a cost. If it is a sunny day, solar would help some. Depending on how a thermostat was setup, the cooler and bilge blower should cycle.... especially if there is cool air being sucked into the battery compartment. That would help if they are not running continuously for long periods of time.

It also comes down to the climate you operate most. I spend 9 months a year in Florida but I try to escape north during the hottest months. But I have also camped in Phoenix when it was 105F and there was no shade.

In the spring and fall, my system should run minimally.... same if a cooler was added. It probably would run more in the southern states because we can be pretty warm in the spring and fall too. So we're probably looking at the 80-20 theory.... this is something people would only need about 20% - 30% of the time.



I'll be getting some real-world data over the next couple weeks and be able to see how much cooler the battery compartment runs and how much the bilge blower runs. Perhaps supplemental cooling won't be needed. My system has been cycling since I turned it on a couple hours ago so it is working as designed so far.

All that being said..... the batteries are happiest at a max temp of 77F according to Xantrex. But 131F is the magic number where the BMS will disconnect the cells. I'd like to think my system can keep temps under that number...... even in Florida, Texas and Arizona in the summer when ambient temps can routinely be 95 - 105F.

Getting them and keeping them down around 80F might be a bit tougher to achieve.

[bclemens]

that was the double. I also looked at a single. 6A still seems like a lot, but refrigeration is always a big draw.

[burtbick]

Originally Posted by Judge64

I just completed the installation of my Powered Ventilation System for the battery compartment on the Freedom Edition and I am very pleased with how it turned out. It couldn't be much cleaner than if it came from the factory the way I installed it.

I cut a ~3" hole in the battery compartment under the Solar Disconnect Switch using a 3" hole saw for cutting steel. I then installed a 3" soffit vent with a built-in bug screen into the hole and used adhesive sealant to fasten it in place and help prevent water intrusion. I then connected it to an Attwood bilge blower with a section of 3" aluminum vent hose. I was able to mount the bilge blower using one of the screws holding one of the batteries in place.

Then under the bed I installed a 12V Thermostat Controlled Switch. I tapped into the power for the CO Detector since there is nothing else on that circuit and the wiring was the gauge that could easily support the application. The bilge blower draws about 2.5 - 3 amps. The switch also comes with a temperature sensor with long leads that easily went into the battery compartment through the ventilation hole under the bed for monitoring the temperature of the compartment. I have the temperature sensor attached to the outside battery with some adhesive and dangling in the air. It reads within 1 degree of my wireless temperature monitor so close enough for government work.

The 12V Thermostat Controlled Switch that I used has some very flexible programming. I first set the target temperature to 90F. I then set the ON temperature to 95F. So once the temperature reaches 95F, the bilge blower will run until the temperature reaches 90F again. I may need to adjust those settings a bit since this system is designed to remove hot air from the battery compartment and not necessarily provide cold air to significantly cool the compartment. Although if there is cool air inside the coach, some of that will get pulled into the battery compartment by the bilge blower.

To test the system I turned off shore power and started the A/C. I had the coach in the garage and the ambient temperature was about 80F. The battery compartment door was closed and the starting temperature of the compartment was about 87F. Once the A/C was running the temperature rose to 95F in about 10 minutes.

I recorded a video showing the switch turning the bilge blower on at 95F and then cooling the compartment down by almost a degree in less than 2 minutes:

https://youtu.be/_7OnQjaoSfg


Here is a video showing a pretty good airflow through the vent in the battery compartment when the bilge blower is running:

https://youtu.be/QNSyAa3ej1o




Now I will say the bilge blower is a bit noisy. You will hear it kick on in the video when the temp hits 95F even though the A/C is running with a low fan speed.... but I did have the bed compartment open as well for the video. I'm not sure you will want it running at night since it is under the bed area. But hopefully at night things are cooler and the compartment doesn't need the powered ventilation. If anything there now an opening to the outside so hot air can escape or cooler air can enter on its own. And now that I have this completed I will use spray foam to seal up the egress where the wiring runs out of the battery compartment.

Yesterday on the ride home from a trip it was 80F and cloudy. I had the A/C running while we were driving and when we got home to unload. The battery compartment was about 107F so I am hoping this ventilation system will keep the temps under 100F most of the time and well under 105F - 110F in very hot climates..... but time will tell. We have a trip planned the next two weekends in OH and PA. We'll have full hookups but it is going to be near 90 and humid according to the forecast so I'll get some run time over the next couple weeks running the A/C while driving and when the batteries are charging after we plug into shore power.


Here are the components I used for this project:

Attwood Bilge Blower

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O0DE9E...roduct_details

3" Insulated Aluminum Duct Hose w/ Hose Clamps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WCY715H...t_details&th=1

3" Soffit Vent with Bug Screen

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077HJC5T9...roduct_details

12V Thermostat Controlled Switch

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011VGAPOC...roduct_details

2-15/16" Hole Saw for Metal

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3XL2BX9...roduct_details




Here are a few pictures of the project as well:

Looks good. I just ordered the parts so that will be a project to complete before our next trip. With the small fan I secured over the hole they cut when at Dynamax it has helped quite a bit, but this should really step it up a lot.


Drawing that hot air out will really help. And as you point out if the coach air is running it will draw some cooled air from inside the coach.


I'll be sealing up the cable area at the battery box soon as well, but I'm still thinking about relocating the Xantrex remote to the step area of the coach so want to leave my option open to feed the cable without needed to dig foam insulation out to do it.

[burtbick]

I have several of the Peltier devices kicking around, a spare large heat sink and small 12V fan. So I might lash together a single cooler and test that.


But I'm not sure that there would really be enough cooling from a single device to make a significant difference in the battery compartment.


Still it is worth testing to see. But it is a big current draw, so I would want to see a decent return for adding the cooler to the mix.


Most likely between the bilge fan and the small fan I added under the bed enough conditioned air would be drawn in to help. But then again the bilge fan may draw most of the air in and immediately exhaust it. So I'm not sure how much impact it would have on the temperature in the box.



Testing will be required to see how that works long term for sure.

[Judge64]

Originally Posted by burtbick

I'll be sealing up the cable area at the battery box soon as well, but I'm still thinking about relocating the Xantrex remote to the step area of the coach so want to leave my option open to feed the cable without needed to dig foam insulation out to do it.

I was thinking hard about running it over to install it next to the eGen Display.... just because that is where it was on my Super C and it really is where it belongs. But I would need to order a 50' data cable and then it would need to be run under the chassis and up to where the Truma Combi drain is located through the back of the passenger side compartment. Then fed up through the floor and over to the area under the sink. The exact location will also depend on where the G12 is mounted and then cutting the panel.

When Dynamax does it at the factory, I'm sure that is where they will put it. But with the Xantrex app there is almost no need to access the panel itself. It also adds one more light at night the wife will surely complain about.

The only reason to access it is if I have to power-cycle the Inverter and I have only had to do that once a few months ago during some testing. If push came to shove and I didn't want to lift the bed to access it, I could easily move it to the compartment next to the bed where I installed my EMS. I have the display for the EMS laying inside that compartment already as well.

In any case...... I think you will find my approach the best way to ventilate the battery compartment..... and it was a huge win not needing to uninstall the batteries. The location also makes it virtually impossible for there to be any water intrusion inside the compartment as well.

I did order a couple screened vents to try and install on the blower input. The fan blades are exposed and it i creating enough vacuum that debris could get sucked into the fan or the big screen on the exhaust vent.

I'll let you know which vent I may work and post some pictures of it.

[Judge64]

Originally Posted by burtbick

Most likely between the bilge fan and the small fan I added under the bed enough conditioned air would be drawn in to help. But then again the bilge fan may draw most of the air in and immediately exhaust it. So I'm not sure how much impact it would have on the temperature in the box.


Testing will be required to see how that works long term for sure.

That blower is creating some serious airflow. I dropped a small piece of tissue above the hole and it got sucked right down into the compartment.

That's why I want to install another screen vent on the intake. I don't think that will hurt the flow too much and it will protect the fan..... and fingers... and keep debris out of the ventilation system.

[burtbick]

Originally Posted by Judge64

That blower is creating some serious airflow. I dropped a small piece of tissue above the hole and it got sucked right down into the compartment.

That's why I want to install another screen vent on the intake. I don't think that will hurt the flow too much and it will protect the fan..... and fingers... and keep debris out of the ventilation system.

I was planning on adding some screening on the intake to the blower for the same reason. I'll wait on that until I see what you find.



I think you are probably correct about relocating the Xantrex remote. It does add one more LED to that area, and I hadn't looked at the options for routing the cable yet.


And, the app does let you do most everything you needed to do, with a few exceptions.


If I needed to power cycle the inverter and couldn't access the panel (say the slide is in) I would just go outside and power cycle it on the Inverter, so that should be an option as well.