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Old 04-02-2020, 02:23 PM   #141
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I stumbled across this, which seems to be helpful.

https://static1.squarespace.com/stat...with+Chart.pdf
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Old 04-02-2020, 02:24 PM   #142
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It takes a certain level of understanding and changes to make that work. So my official response is still, NO, its not set up for lithium...but it can be.
Fair enough. Agreed, it is not set-up for lithium.
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Old 04-02-2020, 02:26 PM   #143
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I stumbled across this, which seems to be helpful.

https://static1.squarespace.com/stat...with+Chart.pdf
Brian, earlier in this thread I posted an updated version of that doc that has the specs that are specific to the Relion batteries as provided by Relion's tech.

The bottom of post #28
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Old 04-02-2020, 02:31 PM   #144
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Brian, earlier in this thread I posted an updated version of that doc that has the specs that are specific to the Relion batteries as provided by Relion's tech.
Ah good. I missed that.

I do have my guys researching with Magnum about the AGS and lithium. Online, I read that 11.5 to 11.8 is the trigger. I feel like that is too low, but I guess we'll test that out.
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Old 04-02-2020, 02:38 PM   #145
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Also got my towbar setup. I needed a dropdown receiver as the height differential was much greater than the Isata 3 I had before upgrading to the Isata 5. I am thinking I will have a machine shop drill another 5/8” hole to lessen the length the receiver added to the towbar.
Just a thought......I recently changed my hitch height to toad, and went from drop hitch to straight connect. It shortened the distance between toad bumper, and motorhome bumper. I’m still good at maximum turning radius, but only by inches now.

Have you checked your clearance bumper to bumper at maximum turning radius before drilling another 5/8” hole?
Just askin’
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Old 04-02-2020, 02:38 PM   #146
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Online, I read that 11.5 to 11.8 is the trigger. I feel like that is too low, but I guess we'll test that out.
Relion told me 11.5 for the AGS.

Looking forward to your test results when you have the findings to post.
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Old 04-02-2020, 02:53 PM   #147
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PS. I just noticed the "Dynamax sent the wrong seat" part of your response. As a side note (and dealer is not open so hard to tell), all of our parts are available online for the dealer, with pictures, descriptions and price. Its rare for a dealer to need to talk to us when they can just go online and order what they need.

We likely sent whatever they ordered. If you shoot me the lats 6 of your VIN I will look into that.
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Old 04-02-2020, 02:58 PM   #148
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PS. I just noticed the "Dynamax sent the wrong seat" part of your response. As a side note (and dealer is not open so hard to tell), all of our parts are available online for the dealer, with pictures, descriptions and price. Its rare for a dealer to need to talk to us when they can just go online and order what they need.

We likely sent whatever they ordered. If you shoot me the lats 6 of your VIN I will look into that.
I suspect your are correct. VIN: 595801

Thanks, BC.
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Old 04-02-2020, 03:39 PM   #149
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2. Maybe one of Lith's still isn't working due to a tripped breaker however I have been able to charge what I believe is all of them back up to 14.2v a dozen times or so.
Unless you test each battery individually you would not know if one (or more is tripped). The battery monitor is reading the bank - not the individual batteries.

Its possible you are running off of just a single battery.

If you find one (or more) IS tripped. Charge each battery to full capacity before reattaching the cables.
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Old 04-02-2020, 06:19 PM   #150
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AGS...

Giving this some more thought.

I wonder if having the LBCO and AGS both set to 11.5 might be the problem. Since you can go as low as 11 on the LBCO you might want to try making that lower than 11.5 or making the AGS higher.
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Old 04-02-2020, 09:20 PM   #151
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I would put the AGS closer at 11.8 if not 12V.

If you look at the discharge curve...anything above 35 degrees or so 12V puts it about 90% discharged or more.Even at 14 degrees its almost 60% discharged by time it reaches 12V.
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Old 04-02-2020, 11:23 PM   #152
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TrailWayz and I have the same Lith setup, wiring and ME-RC programming from Magnum themselves, except that he has 4 bats, I have 3. I Do see typically 12-24 hrs of amp hrs available through out the night and days using the same equipment and loads, excluding the heater of mine (and maybe this faulty trailer draw).

I have a nice thermostat on this heater (see earlier in this thread of the install) that I typically set at 40 degress which keeps the utility bay at about that temp. It's "low" setting draws about 15-20 amps. I use this heater to really ensure that shower head, cord and faucet controls in that utility bay don't freeze. They are right by the opening of the utility door and they're potential to freeze is the biggest IMO. I use my RV frequently through the winter so I can't keep winterizing and dewinterizing it. When it's stored, it on 15amp shore power with an electric heater inside the coach, and this utility heater on which has worked fine now for 6 months.

I think I've concluded my setup is usually working as it should, except that the AGS function does not work with Lith's. BIG BUMMER. I'll call Magnum about some other settings in the ME-RC and try to get it to kick on AGS. I did run the Liths down to the point where they shut off and I had no power to coach. My only way to get things up and running was to attach jumper cables to the Liths with another good battery which allowed me to start the gen and charge up the Lith's again. FYI-all of us with Lith's might experience this. The whole system shuts down and you can't even charge the Lith's via the shore or soloar ! You have to have about 10v or higher coming from the coach bats to trigger the inverter to turn on, start charging etc. You can use the engine batt to do this quick jump start. I dealt with this scenario last weekend in the desert and it was trial and error trying to get everything to turn back on, charge etc. It stressfull for a bit.

I also do think there's a problem with voltage when using the slider and Lith's, at least on my current setup. I can have fully charged Liths at say 13v or higher and the slider is struggling through opening and at the end. I have gotten a VDC? I believe fault on that control panel as well at times when using the slider.

To summarize, I'll mess with some other ME-RC programming to get better results and possible AGS startup and get the slider looked at by the local dealer. I think I'll then put the OEM AGM batts back in the coach and test all this again like it came from the factory. I'm also going to ensure all 3 of my Lith's are working correctly.

I appreciate BClemens and others support on this a I do realize I could have created some of these problems. I do love the RV and don't know of any other as good as it is for what it is. : )
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Old 04-02-2020, 11:26 PM   #153
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I stumbled across this, which seems to be helpful.

https://static1.squarespace.com/stat...with+Chart.pdf
These settings are slightly different than what they provided us several months ago. I'll try these for comparision.
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Old 04-02-2020, 11:28 PM   #154
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Relion told me 11.5 for the AGS.

Looking forward to your test results when you have the findings to post.
I tried down to 11.8v this weekend with no luck. I guess I'll try 11.5v.
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Old 04-02-2020, 11:34 PM   #155
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Giving this some more thought.

I wonder if having the LBCO and AGS both set to 11.5 might be the problem. Since you can go as low as 11 on the LBCO you might want to try making that lower than 11.5 or making the AGS higher.
Now we're getting somewhere. I was thinking the same thing but wasn't too sure about how these affect one another. I'll call Magnum tmrw and brainstorm with them.
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Old 04-04-2020, 09:44 AM   #156
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Yes, I'm not saying the AGS can't work...just that it won't work with lithiums if not adjusted. You really want the trigger voltage on the magnum to be higher than for flooded. Possibly as high as 12V.

PS. As I said before, the magnum AGS and Multiplex are about the same thing, but the magnum also has the temp trigger. I would turn it off on the multiplex and use the Magnum panel only for testing. The two trying to work at the same time might also cause some issues.
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Old 04-04-2020, 12:38 PM   #157
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Back to mods, both my Black and Grey valve handles move very freely. The least bump will allow them to open and fill the short dump pipe creating a less than desirable situation when dumping.

Has anyone come up with something clever to secure these handles so they don’t open until you are ready? I was think some bungee cord wrapped around the pipe and securing both ends of the handle? Anyone else have this issue and solved it?
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Old 04-06-2020, 11:45 AM   #158
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Back to mods, both my Black and Grey valve handles move very freely. The least bump will allow them to open and fill the short dump pipe creating a less than desirable situation when dumping.

Has anyone come up with something clever to secure these handles so they don’t open until you are ready? I was think some bungee cord wrapped around the pipe and securing both ends of the handle? Anyone else have this issue and solved it?
I haven't noticed your problem on mine.
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Old 04-12-2020, 01:21 PM   #159
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Slider Update: Dealer and Dynamax confirmed my slider was installed incorrectly. When opening, it stops 6" before it should and it is misaligned when open and closed. I am waiting on Dynamax to decide how to fix it. It's been a week now. Let's see how long this takes...

What an inconvenience and I hope this gets fixed for good because this is a do or die feature. I picked this RV up this way from an out of state dealer who is just a hr from Dynamax. It bothers me that this critical component wasn't right from the beginning. I thought it looked wrong when I flew in to get it but couldn't wait for it to be looked at and fixed, and it did somewhat work for a brief time (15 tries or so). I thought it was an easy realignment but it doesn't sound that way.
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Old 04-12-2020, 03:25 PM   #160
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When closed, it doesn't really look that far off. As long as the D-seals are touching...then the slide is sealed for moisture. The bottom always compresses less than the top. Just a quirk of the slim-rack slide.

Stopping 6" short from going out is not right, but 9 times out of 10, all that is, is the top slide opening gap is a bit too tight and can end up putting it in a bind. Typically just trimming slide wipe or replacing with a shorter one normally does the trick.
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