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Old 04-21-2021, 03:08 PM   #1
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Isata 5 Black Out Wheels

Local supplier pointed us to a Vision HD 181 Hauler wheel. Comes in 19.5, black. must be installed in a full set of (6) for lug pattern.

https://www.visionwheel.com/wheel/88...e/?finishID=12

Might be a possibility
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Old 04-22-2021, 06:34 AM   #2
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Those are sharp. I would rather have chrome, just kidding.
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Old 04-22-2021, 03:31 PM   #3
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Those are what I would prefer as we got the dark paint. Would love to have a blackout package available for the explorer dark. I was looking into powder coating the rims that came with the motorhome and replacing most of the chrome with black parts.

Any chance of including a set on my rig?
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Old 04-22-2021, 03:51 PM   #4
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Those are what I would prefer as we got the dark paint. Would love to have a blackout package available for the explorer dark. I was looking into powder coating the rims that came with the motorhome and replacing most of the chrome with black parts.

Any chance of including a set on my rig?
We used to powder coat rims...until it started warping the wheels. That was an expensive lesson.

Chance of including a set? Only if you print them large enough so that we can tape the picture to the outside....no guaranty they arrive though.
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Old 04-22-2021, 07:30 PM   #5
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Well I guess the powder coating is out, which is too bad as I like the look of the Dodge blacked out rims.
Would it be a possibility to add the black rims to my rig now before you send it out?
If yes how much would it add to the cost of the unit when I pick it up, or would this be something I would have to ask my dealer?
It might be cheaper than me trying to do it here after it arrives.
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Old 04-22-2021, 07:56 PM   #6
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I actually saw that a few months ago and if I get the dark Explorer those are exactly what I want to get.

I would also get the blackout grill and to replace the chrome bumper I will get the AEV winch bumper.
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Old 04-22-2021, 08:05 PM   #7
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Yea, a DX3 style blackout package would look awesome with the dark paint.
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Old 04-23-2021, 12:24 AM   #8
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I replaced the Alcoa rims on my Isata 5 with a northstar black anodized aluminum rims
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Old 04-23-2021, 12:35 AM   #9
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Here are the photos.
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Old 04-23-2021, 07:26 AM   #10
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Here are the photos.
Nice...now you just need the new Power Wagon Grill
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Old 04-23-2021, 11:46 AM   #11
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Here are the photos.
Did you have to do the black yourself? All I can find are polished aluminum.
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Old 04-23-2021, 02:35 PM   #12
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It came that way. I did paint the original center caps since I don't like the center cap that came with it.
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Old 04-27-2021, 08:45 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by bclemens View Post
Local supplier pointed us to a Vision HD 181 Hauler wheel. Comes in 19.5, black. must be installed in a full set of (6) for lug pattern.

https://www.visionwheel.com/wheel/88...e/?finishID=12

Might be a possibility
In my direct experience, replacing all 6 wheels should be approached with caution. I bought a pair of OEM aluminum wheels thinking that I’d replace the inner dually wheel in the back (steel) with the aluminum ones. Once I got one fitted to the rig, it turned out to be a mistake.

The lugs are long enough, BUT the wheels are hub piloted and since the aluminum wheels are so much thicker than the steel wheels, with two aluminum wheels stacked together, there wasn’t enough hub left to properly support the outer wheel. I would have been left with the outer wheel being supported by the lug studs and not the hub. No good.
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Old 04-27-2021, 09:04 AM   #14
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That is why we were told to replace all 6. The lugs are not long enough to just do (4), the supplier said all 6 was the only way to make it work
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Old 04-27-2021, 11:32 AM   #15
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That is why we were told to replace all 6. The lugs are not long enough to just do (4), the supplier said all 6 was the only way to make it work
I’m not sure I follow why the length of the lugs is pertinent to this situation. Here’s where I am coming from….

The OEM steel wheel which resides at the inner position of the rear axle is approx. 0.378” thick at the center bore (measured with a handheld digital caliper).

The OEM aluminum wheel which resides at the outer position of the rear axle is approx.. 0.730” thick at the center bore (measured with a handheld digital caliper).

That leads to the fact that, stacked together, they are about 1.100” thick at the center bore.

The actual machined portion of the axle that supports the wheels on a Ram 5500 (Dana S111 rear axle) is about 1.150” wide.

With that being said, the _axle_ is what should support the actual weight being transferred from the rig, through the axle and to the wheels and tires as that is how hub piloted wheels work. The lug studs and nuts provide the clamping force and should provide little more than that…but I’ll say again, there is plenty of length for the studs to accommodate most any combination of wheels.

Now that leads to my original point, when an OEM aluminum wheel is installed at the inner position of the rear axle, that makes the inner wheel 0.730” thick instead of 0.378” thick. That only leaves about 0.450” of available width on the rear axle to engage the outer wheel. If you try to install another OEM aluminum wheel in that outer position, then it won’t fully engage the axle. You end up with a situation where the outer wheel is not fully supported and _I_ was VERY uncomfortable with that in a rig that runs right at the GVWR for nearly every mile it goes down the road.

So, the question I would have for the Vision wheel company is: How thick are your wheels at the center bore? ….because if it’s greater than about 0.575” (width of the machined portion of the rear axle divided by 2), then stacking two of their wheels is questionable.
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Old 04-27-2021, 01:06 PM   #16
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I frankly did not get all that far into it. I asked our local tire shop who does all of our other work. They said they had these...BUT, you had to replace all (6) because it was not possible to just change (4) and leave the inner wheel as it was not compatible.

I was not at the point that I needed to build a watch...just needed the time
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Old 04-27-2021, 01:46 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by bclemens View Post
I frankly did not get all that far into it. I asked our local tire shop who does all of our other work. They said they had these...BUT, you had to replace all (6) because it was not possible to just change (4) and leave the inner wheel as it was not compatible.

I was not at the point that I needed to build a watch...just needed the time
Understood. Obviously, what I am saying is that I wanted to know the time and no one seemed to be able to help me with that. So, I tried to build a watch and the parts I got for that timepiece fit together, but I was afraid it was going to cut my hand off if I put it on my wrist.
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Old 04-30-2021, 08:37 PM   #18
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Factory wheels are "HUB CENTRIC" meaning the centerbore of the wheel matches the hub diameter perfectly and centers the wheel and transfers the weight straight to the wheel hub. The only function of the lug nuts is to hold the wheel on, not centering or bearing the load.



Most all after market wheels use the largest centerbore of all applications they are trying to fit for a specific lug pattern and employ a couple different type of lug nuts which center the wheel and carry the load through the wheel studs so they dont have to make a different wheel for each manufacturers hub diameter.



Any chassis meant to run anywhere near their max gvw should always retain a hubcentric wheel.


I just put these wheels on an older dually that is more of a "rod" truck and not meant to haul wt per say!


They wheel center bore was much larger than the wheel hub and relied on "shouldered" lugnuts to center the wheels and carry the weight. In order to use "shouldered" lugs the wheel has to have "overbored" lug holes to fit the "shoulder".



When the inner wheel is left as factory it does not have the overbore hole and the shoulder lugs end up being too long and bottom out against the inner wheel before tightening the outer.



The wheel studs will most likely be too short with inner aluminums but the "shoulder" lug nuts supposedly fix that. In a proper "nut" install the stud is supposed to protrude a minimum of 1 thread beyond the nut.



HOWEVER if you think about how the wheel stud does not extend past the face of the outer wheel the only thing that holds the wheel on is the wall thickness of the lug nut shoulder. You can actually tighten this type of lug nut to failure since the threads of the stud never get into the head of the nut.



IMO this is a BAD idea for a chassis running at or over GVW


Pretty sure if run this wheel package past the dodge folks they will not approve.


Just my 2cents but I have had failure related to this very situation.


It is possible that the dodge hub diameter is the largest one for that specific lug pattern in which case the wheel will be hubcentric and carry the weight but if the studs do not extend out past the outside dually wheel and shoulder bolts are used you still have a major weak link
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