Isata 5 Slide issues....:(

[RKBob]

I just read thru this post this evening and now I’m extremely concerned. I’m seriously considering cancelling my order. On the 7th of September I drove to the dealer where “my” motorhome was starting to be prepped for my PDI. I went a couple of days early because my truck needed to be set up for flat towing. I never got to do the PDI because the technician could not get one side of the slide all the way extended, it kept jamming on the coach wall. After three weeks of attempted fixes and a visit from a Lippert technician they were sending the coach back to Dynamax on the 28th of September. I don’t know what the solution will be nor when I will be able to complete the purchase. With all of the slide problem threads I’ve read ot this forum I’m rethinking the wisdom of this purchase. It would be helpful to know the total production of the Isata5 versus the number of slide failures.

[bclemens]

As a side note....there are primarily two slide mechanisms in the Class C market. Schwintec (In-wall) and the Power Gear Slim Rack (In-Wall). Both mechanisms owned by LCI and used by every single mfg. Winnebago, Forest River, Thor, Tiffin.

I have heard before, Lippert say it wasn't their issue and within two hours have a perfectly working slide after adjusting their system. I am not going to say this is not our fault as I have not seen the unit. It very well could be our issue. I do know, the last thing I heard, was that when they lifted up the outside edge of the slide, the slide came in and out the entire way with no issues. So something changed...we just have to figure out what that was.

[Dick Skeers]

Thanks for hopping Brian,
what do you mean by lifting up?
FYI, i have a factory appointment Oct 9, to shim the rollers. at least 3 of my rollers are carrying no weight what so ever. particularly the rear, where the two rollers adjacent rollers are carrying no weight so that the rearmost roller is carrying their load and the rear roller is, therefore "moaning" loudly.

[bclemens]

They raised up the leading edge of the exterior slide. I was not told how much.

[bclemens]

I thought this was a really good tech document on the in-wall slide out. Might help.

[bratbros]

That document is helpful. Thanks for posting it, Brian. One issue though. The controller in my Isata 5 30FW is a 404183 which is neither of the controllers in that document. I have been in contact with Lippert numerous times and they don't have a manual for that controller. One guy thought that maybe 404183 was built specifically for Dynamax. The issue is in the error codes. The code one red one green on one controller is the set stops error and the other is the park brake ground fault. We are chasing down everything since one time it will code set stops and another time the park brake fault light on the wall switch will come on. We have new wiring harnesses on the way since the controller has already been replaced once. Any insight would be appreciated.

[bclemens]

I have mentioned before....low voltage seems to trigger whatever fault code it wants. Which is why I have suggested making sure the batteries are all the way up...then clear the fault if you have had an issue. most times it works just fine after that.

But even if they did build that part number specifically for us, they should know how it works, they built it. The manual should also be pretty close as it is likely just the way we get them pinned or a connector they add for us.

[bratbros]

You are right on the low voltage. From the time I took delivery on this coach I have always run the chassis engine when moving the slide, even though on the the run through the tech said you don't have to. I have tested the batteries under load both with the engine running, plugged into shore power, and neither and the voltage stays above 12.6 when unplugged and the engine off. When I move the slide using my procedure I watch the solar controller and wait unit it reads 13-14volts before moving the slide. Something is just wacky because it will work for a few cycles of the slide, then the rear motor will stop functioning until I put it in over ride mode and hold the motor 1 and 2 switches. Then I have to re-set the stops and sometimes it will work for a few more cycles and start all over.

[bclemens]

I have asked them about the "auto program" switch that they show. I've never heard of it. But I know my guys here...when we replace a controller, we replace the switch at the same time. Just to be safe.

[bratbros]

I'll pass that on to the dealer I'm working with. They aren't a Dynamax dealer but are Forest River.


By the way, are you looking for more dealers? These guys are bending over backwards to help me, very unlike the dealer I purchased from..they would be a great addition to your/our team.

[bclemens]

We're not looking for new dealers, but we are always looking for good service dealers. And we are always looking to upgrade dealers if possible.

[sseaner]

I finally got around to changing out the slide motor in my Isata 5. The whole process took less than one hour. For your slide change tool kit you will need the following;

#2 square bit
#2 phillips bit
Needle nose pliers
Metric hex screw set
cordless driver

Remove the torx style screws on the black frame starting at the top going down about two thirds of the way. Remove the two flush Phillips screws towards the top. There is one hidden Phillips screw in the top of the vertical seal. Remove that screw also. Pull back the black frame and you will see the motor. My coach was built in November 2017 so I have the retention spring. You can see in the photos below the new motor comes with the screw retention bracket. If you have a second hole above the bolt that holds the retention spring, the motor will fit. If you don't, Lippert says the mounting blocks have to be changed. I have the old style which would entail me ordering the new drive blocks as well as replacing them. I say how about I just change the mounting bracket and keep the retention spring. All you have to do is unscrew 4 metric hex screws and swap the brackets. Take a picture of the bracket orientation before removing the old bracket in case you forget how it was mounted. Once you do that you need to take a pic with your cell phone of the drive sprocket to see the orientation because it is impossible to get your head in there to view it. See the pic below. Plug in your motor and jog the shaft to line up with the drive sprocket. You can then drop it in place. You may have to jog in and out while pushing down on the motor to get it to fully seat. Once that is done you can re-attach the retention spring. Tuck the wiring harness in and be sure it will not be pinched or damaged by a screw. Once that is done re-install all the Phillips screws and torx screws. You will now need to reset the stops for your slide as per the manual. I cycled the slide a couple of times and it worked perfectly. You will notice the new motor has a rubber cover over the to top of the brake assembly and the old one does not. You can see a close up of my old motor and the corrosion that is appearing only after 8 months. My unit is stored in a fully enclosed garage when not in use. Now how do I file this warranty claim?

[bratbros]

Thanks for posting this, Scott. It's nice to know what's actually behind the trim pieces before it's taken apart. Did you have enough room between the slide and the wall get in there and work without too much trouble?


My local Forest River dealer is going to replace the wiring harnesses as soon as Lippert gets them the parts. The motor runs in over ride mode but is intermittent in normal mode. Did your motor totally fail? Did you notice a burned smell to the motor or anything like that?


Thanks,

[sseaner]

I had ample room to work with the slide retracted. The motor did not have a smell but it would get really hot compared to the other one, would retract slower and made an odd noise. The new motor works like when the coach was new. I believe the brake was sticking but I cant be sure.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by sseaner

I finally got around to changing out the slide motor in my Isata 5. The whole process took less than one hour. For your slide change tool kit you will need the following;

#2 square bit
#2 phillips bit
Needle nose pliers
Metric hex screw set
cordless driver

Remove the torx style screws on the black frame starting at the top going down about two thirds of the way. Remove the two flush Phillips screws towards the top. There is one hidden Phillips screw in the top of the vertical seal. Remove that screw also. Pull back the black frame and you will see the motor. My coach was built in November 2017 so I have the retention spring. You can see in the photos below the new motor comes with the screw retention bracket. If you have a second hole above the bolt that holds the retention spring, the motor will fit. If you don't, Lippert says the mounting blocks have to be changed. I have the old style which would entail me ordering the new drive blocks as well as replacing them. I say how about I just change the mounting bracket and keep the retention spring. All you have to do is unscrew 4 metric hex screws and swap the brackets. Take a picture of the bracket orientation before removing the old bracket in case you forget how it was mounted. Once you do that you need to take a pic with your cell phone of the drive sprocket to see the orientation because it is impossible to get your head in there to view it. See the pic below. Plug in your motor and jog the shaft to line up with the drive sprocket. You can then drop it in place. You may have to jog in and out while pushing down on the motor to get it to fully seat. Once that is done you can re-attach the retention spring. Tuck the wiring harness in and be sure it will not be pinched or damaged by a screw. Once that is done re-install all the Phillips screws and torx screws. You will now need to reset the stops for your slide as per the manual. I cycled the slide a couple of times and it worked perfectly. You will notice the new motor has a rubber cover over the to top of the brake assembly and the old one does not. You can see a close up of my old motor and the corrosion that is appearing only after 8 months. My unit is stored in a fully enclosed garage when not in use. Now how do I file this warranty claim?

Nice work. Just submit those pictures and the motor receipt. We likely have a flat rate time for that job. Not sure what that is, but the service rep will know.

[sseaner]

I sent Brian Meeks an email.

[oldwrench]

Originally Posted by sseaner

i had ample room to work with the slide retracted. The motor did not have a smell but it would get really hot compared to the other one, would retract slower and made an odd noise. The new motor works like when the coach was new. I believe the brake was sticking but i cant be sure.

great job, great pictures maybe you should start writing service repair manuals [l.o.l] glad that all is working.

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by sseaner

I finally got around to changing out the slide motor in my Isata 5. The whole process took less than one hour. For your slide change tool kit you will need the following;

#2 square bit
#2 phillips bit
Needle nose pliers
Metric hex screw set
cordless driver

Remove the torx style screws on the black frame starting at the top going down about two thirds of the way. Remove the two flush Phillips screws towards the top. There is one hidden Phillips screw in the top of the vertical seal. Remove that screw also. Pull back the black frame and you will see the motor. My coach was built in November 2017 so I have the retention spring. You can see in the photos below the new motor comes with the screw retention bracket. If you have a second hole above the bolt that holds the retention spring, the motor will fit. If you don't, Lippert says the mounting blocks have to be changed. I have the old style which would entail me ordering the new drive blocks as well as replacing them. I say how about I just change the mounting bracket and keep the retention spring. All you have to do is unscrew 4 metric hex screws and swap the brackets. Take a picture of the bracket orientation before removing the old bracket in case you forget how it was mounted. Once you do that you need to take a pic with your cell phone of the drive sprocket to see the orientation because it is impossible to get your head in there to view it. See the pic below. Plug in your motor and jog the shaft to line up with the drive sprocket. You can then drop it in place. You may have to jog in and out while pushing down on the motor to get it to fully seat. Once that is done you can re-attach the retention spring. Tuck the wiring harness in and be sure it will not be pinched or damaged by a screw. Once that is done re-install all the Phillips screws and torx screws. You will now need to reset the stops for your slide as per the manual. I cycled the slide a couple of times and it worked perfectly. You will notice the new motor has a rubber cover over the to top of the brake assembly and the old one does not. You can see a close up of my old motor and the corrosion that is appearing only after 8 months. My unit is stored in a fully enclosed garage when not in use. Now how do I file this warranty claim?

Thanks for posting this! I hope I never need it, but I appreciate first hand user info like this A LOT!

[Mr. Jiggles]

Ditto, thanks for the pics and info. It is disheartening to think your coach is only 8 months old. I really don’t want to go through that exercise. I’ve had mine for 3 weeks and the slide (drivers side) has started squeaking and groaning and moving slowly as it gets near full extension. It also will collect water underneath the topper near the front and if I don’t get on a ladder and squeegee it off it all comes inside. This has me worried. My wife shakes her head and laughs and says “how much did we pay for this”.
I’ve not only been in touch with Brian Meeks but I also went through Elkhart on purpose last week to try to have some corrections made. I even brought Brian a large Starbucks coffee as soon as he arrived at the plant (big deal, right?) Although I called a week ahead of time that was not enough notice as Dynamax had an annual dealer convention going on. Brian Meeks convinced me to take the coach across the street to a repair place that they respect for some adjustments. I had explicitly spellled out the issues in an email in order of importance but the repair shop ignored what I thought was important and did the stuff I wasn’t that concerned with. On top of that and leaving it there all day what I got was muddy boot tracks in the main cabin area. Then we went 2 miles down the road and parked for 3 days. While sitting there one evening listening to my inheritance slip away we heard a weird loud noise. Walked into the bathroom and the mirror over the sink had cracked at an angle near the point where they screw it to the cabinet door. You I 5 guys know exactly where I’m speaking of. We went to bed and in the morning as I’m taking a picture of it to send to Brian M., the other 3 corners crack (while I’m standing there watching) WTF. OK, it’s only a mirror but again, the wife says.... (refer to above which is now the wife’s favorite saying). Put this together with a few other issues and then Sseaner scares with with his corroded slide motor story and again, wtf?
I do have to say bc that I didn’t have the fuel fill issue with my unit that others had and I did not have black water spill throughout my storage compartments like Blt4speed has but I did have gray water spill out of an open port on the shallow side of the gray tank and drop about 1/2 gallon in the compartment. I asked Brian M about this and sent pics. If there is no flush line on the gray tank and you evidently use the same manufactured tank for both black and gray and the both have a 1/2” threaded port on the shallow end and the black tank receives a flush out line into that port then why is the port just left open on the gray?
While I’m on the subject of tanks, has anyone has this problem - ok, so both gray and black are identical. The plumbing is set up so that the toilet AND the bath sink drain to the black. Both tanks are 42 gallons. When my black tank registers 2/3rds full the toilet switch in the bathroom turns red and won’t allow one more flush. 42 gallon tank only allowing 2/3 or 28 gallons. That’s only good for one and a half days for us. If we dry camp what are we supposed to do? Leave the site to go dump somewhere or squat in the weeds?
Are you getting the impression that I’m disappointed? There are a lot of small things that I’ve chosen not to get upset over but water inside the coach and half of a black tank really stinks, (pun intended)

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by sseaner

I appreciate the info. I carry a spare motor and rack so my first attempt will be to replace the dragging motor. I will do a how to guide on replacing it while I am at it and see if that is the culprit. Please post any new information you receive. I am gong to try the manual mode tomorrow.

Did you ever get a verified, order-able, part number for the rack? The Lippert literature says it is part# 366882, but I can't find anywhere to order that part number.