Isata5 28SS Bathroom Heat Register

WeQuit · 11-24-2020, 10:36 PM

Brian, this is probably really a question for you. Should there be a heat register under the shower on a 28SS (with Explorer if that matters)? We took delivery a week ago. I immediately started chasing a huge shower surround leak (like, to the point that it was puddling water in the electrical bay after running down the floor/wall joint and out the slide cutout). Anyway, as part of that flood mitigation effort I pulled off the panel under the shower pan. I found a heat duct going to... nothing. I asked on the Facebook group if others had a register that duct ties into. Some say yes, but more recent deliveries seem to say no. Is it an intentional change, or is something getting missed on the line?

Matt

**bclemens** · 11-25-2020, 09:11 AM

There is a heat duct and should have an outlet.

**bclemens** · 11-25-2020, 09:15 AM

As for the shower...I've posted this a lot before on how the show pan sits.

ALL of these RV shower pans get formed the same way...not sure why.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...tub-42883.html

This is a thread showing what it looks like (If that is where the water is coming from).

**bclemens** · 11-25-2020, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WeQuit

Brian, this is probably really a question for you. Should there be a heat register under the shower on a 28SS (with Explorer if that matters)? We took delivery a week ago. I immediately started chasing a huge shower surround leak (like, to the point that it was puddling water in the electrical bay after running down the floor/wall joint and out the slide cutout). Anyway, as part of that flood mitigation effort I pulled off the panel under the shower pan. I found a heat duct going to... nothing. I asked on the Facebook group if others had a register that duct ties into. Some say yes, but more recent deliveries seem to say no. Is it an intentional change, or is something getting missed on the line?

Matt

PS. Which Facebook group? We don't really monitor any of them except for the "Dynamax Owner's Group (Official)". They just keep popping up and we can't cover them all.

BLT4SPD · 11-25-2020, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bclemens

PS. Which Facebook group? We don't really monitor any of them except for the "Dynamax Owner's Group (Official)". They just keep popping up and we can't cover them all.

Istata 5 Group. 600 strong and surprisingly active.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/814152392386240

jimmoore13 · 11-25-2020, 01:45 PM

I presume your facia panel for the shower structure does not have a hole. Sounds like a 4:00 PM Friday assembly omission. Get out your jig-saw and install a heat "register"...like the ones in the link below.

I noticed that mine have the ducting sort of "glued" to the register/duct adapter at the furnace, AND clamped. I'd suggest doing both as well. There's enough slack in the ducting to allow removal and replacement of the panel without disconnecting the duct from the register, but if you need to disconnect, the glue won't be powerful enough to prevent removal.

Good luck with the leak(s).

On that front, I've seen a number of issues:
a) loose connectors on the supply lines;
b) cracked drain PVC;
c) in traps with nuts instead of glue joints, vibration-induced loosening of the trap nuts.

Things like cracks in the tub or gaps in the surround should be obvious, and if they aren't, look at the plumbing. Don't forget to look at tee connections supplying the tub/shower and going on to the sink and/or toilet. Those will be PEX connectors made of hard plastic, and any one of them could be cracked...or the same guy who forgot your heat register might have forgotten to add PEX clamps to a fitting.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Vents-an...hoCT3oQAvD_BwE

Canadian-chris · 11-25-2020, 03:20 PM

WRT your shower pan leaking, with access door open turn on or pour water into drain and check that the connection between the shower drain, HepO drain unit and plumbing is not were the leak is. On our I3 the flanges were damaged during or after install and flange nuts were cut in half to allow for installation and they loosened and broke after 4 months.
Best of luck with search and repairs.

Chris

Switfty · 11-25-2020, 08:31 PM

My new ISATA 5 has the same issue with the heat duct. It is just laying in the opening under the shower with no register. Also it looks like the opening in the floor for the wiring going down to the generator compartment is not sealed. Critters will enjoy the cozy environs under the shower pan

WeQuit · 11-25-2020, 09:15 PM

Thanks a lot for the info Brian on what was, I hope, a short work day. Jared jumped in on the Facebook group as well. We are really appreciate it.

Re, the heat vent: I just wanted to make sure that the design intent is for there to be one there. I guarantee you I can make heat come through that duct into the bathroom with minimal effort. I just wasn't sure if maybe Dynamax engineering had a summer intern who did a bunch of heat transfer modeling to show that if you leave the duct loose under there it makes for a warm shower pan that radiant heats the bathroom effectively too

Re, the shower leak: I think you got it Brian. I've been assuming the flange setup is something like that pic you had in the other thread. Its definitely not supply (bone dry whenever the shower isn't in use and the water pump doesn't run at all when no water in use (even over night). I'm pretty confident it is not drain plumbing, cause I'd expect to be able to feel that running down the bottom of the drain pipe. I definitely feel it running down the wall near where the door track ties in. I initially concentrated on siliconing the ends of the shower tracks to force the water out their drain holes and back into the pan, as well as the gap between the outside of the shower door and vanity. That area captures any water that gets outside the doors back there. Those two areas have taken us from waterfall to moderate/slow drip. Now I think I'll just work my way up the surround/pan joint to limit the water running down the flange into that corner. Good times.

Now, go have some Turkey!

- Matt

PremierPOWER · 11-26-2020, 10:05 AM

So I take it that it was just a blank panel covering that, with no way for the heat to get out? How is something like that missed?

Worm43 · 11-26-2020, 10:23 AM

My outside water tank on my XL is suppose to have a heat vent run from the cozy under the refrigerator. There was no hole cut for a vent into the bay and the cozy was just blowing warm air under the refrigerator. Theres no room or play to get under there to remedy the situation.

WeQuit · 11-26-2020, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PremierPOWER

So I take it that it was just a blank panel covering that, with no way for the heat to get out? How is something like that missed?

Yep, the first morning we stayed on it the bathroom was chilly. I was surprised there was no heat outlet. Then, a couple days later, while working the leak; BOOM! surprise duct!

My parents have a couple year old, upper trim, Newmar. DP. Same kinda stuff (they had things like cargo bin light switch wired to battery disconnect and radar cruise sensing unit trim panel missing the 4" hole it needed for the sensor to sense anything). Root cause is how the industry manufactures from what I can tell. Much more "boutique" build practices compared to what most people are used to in automotive. Allows the human related sources of variation to creep in.

- Matt

Bill Davis · 11-26-2020, 10:43 AM

Considering that RVs are mostly built by hand, it’s amazing that more things aren’t missed. Also if you look at the cost compared to a 90,000 dollar pick up truck built almost entirely by robots it makes you wonder how they build them so cheaply. I guess I don’t mind so much fixing minor mistakes or flaws in the build if it keeps the cost down. I know beyond a shadow of a doubt that Dynamax is constantly trying to build a very high quality product that we can afford.
Besides, for me, repairing and modifying is half the fun of ownership.

WeQuit · 11-26-2020, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Davis

Considering that RVs are mostly built by hand, it’s amazing that more things aren’t missed. Also if you look at the cost compared to a 90,000 dollar pick up truck built almost entirely by robots it makes you wonder how they build them so cheaply. I guess I don’t mind so much fixing minor mistakes or flaws in the build if it keeps the cost down. I know beyond a shadow of a doubt that Dynamax is constantly trying to build a very high quality product that we can afford.
Besides, for me, repairing and modifying is half the fun of ownership.

Yep, like most things in life it's all about expectations. If you go into it expecting automotive levels of initial quality you'll be frustrated. If you realize there are going to be some things that need working out here and there you'll be content.

Also, Mary Barra doesn't spend a good chunk of her day on the Silverado forums answering owner's questions and helping with issues. That sets Dynamax apart in a big way. If there will invariably be things to work out having that support is huge. BC probably gets paid more than Mary because he provides that extra effort, but still I appreciate it

- Matt

**bclemens** · 11-27-2020, 05:47 PM

We started building the 28SS's down the truck line when it was first starting out. We switched that over to our Line B with the Sprinter, and are working towards dedicated lines for each chassis. M2, Ram, Sprinter. For some reason, they just missed that duct on the B-line as it was new to them. Based on the picture we were able to find the issue and correct it before any more were shipped. Service was also informed so that they can identify and quickly resolves any customers that may have received one like this.

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