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Old 12-03-2023, 11:49 PM   #1
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KD32 Adding bunk TV and understanding wires

Next project.

I am adding a small 4th TV to the bunk so it can be seen from the kitchen counter, wife's request. This is prompting some questions and need for clarification. I went through the equipment manuals and searched the forum first.

I picked up an Insignia Fire version to match the rest of the TVs, but just a 24, as well as a swing arm so it can be redirected from the galley to the bunk.

1. The HDMI feed from the switch to the TV is over Cat6. I pulled identified the ethernet to hdmi converter at the main TV as a Connexx HDMI + POC Dongle Style Passive Extender R01POC-HSSB1RX. I do not get any Google hits on this brand and part number. Is this something I need/can get from Dynamax Parts?

2. The main TV and I assume the Bedroom and Outside tv have coax going to it from the digital antenna (Winguard 360) Those cables do not pass through the data cabinet so I assume there is a splitter somewhere between the antenna and the 3 TVs? If so where, or can I utilize the open single port on the Winguard faceplace in the data cabinet and pull a cable to TV #4?

3. There are two additional unattached coax in the data cabinet, blue and black. The label on the blue is torn/hard to read but the last line is SAT, so I am assuming this is the coax to the Satellite dish (?).

4. I am assuming the black cable goes to Park Cable in the service bay. We probably won't use park cable, but if we were to is there a coax to hdmi converter to plug that into the Connexx switch?

Thanks in advance for any clarification. Then I just need to get ethernet cable and coax from the data cabinet to the bunk.
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Old 12-04-2023, 07:48 AM   #2
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Did you remove the Winegard power button plate? Sometimes they have a splitter as part of them or behind them.
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Old 12-04-2023, 10:13 AM   #3
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1. We get that from River park, you can get that from us, you do not have to.

2. They run to the back side of the Winegard antenna booster, it has a pig tail that distributes the OTA antenna and/or park cable signal.

3. Blue Coax is a home run to the outside in the event you use a portable satellite. Black is to the roof sat.

4. No, the black coax in the cabinet goes to the roof sat. Blue is just a home run to the utility bay.

5. Park cable is already run to the TV's and is the same lines as the over the air TV. OTA comes into the winegard plate. Park cable comes into the winegard plate. It is distributed from there to each TV.
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Old 12-04-2023, 02:06 PM   #4
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Thanks for clarifying everything. I will pull the Winguard face plate tonight.

I ordered the dongle from Riverpark over the phone, $30 +T&S.

And will dust off my label maker tonight and tag the other cables. Then I just need to get coax and cat6 through the over dinette cabinet and should be good. Are there any other conduits to go through? Otherwise I will just go to the upper back of the inside of the cabinet.
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Old 12-04-2023, 02:14 PM   #5
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No conduit.
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Old 12-04-2023, 03:54 PM   #6
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I too have been debating adding a bunk TV. Only way I could see running the wire easily was as you described; through the overhead cabinet.

I did a little reworking of how the cabinet is setup on my 32KD. For example, my short wife could not reach the roof dish power switch where it was installed. Now she can. In addition I installed a A/B switch so I can easily go between roof dish and stationery dish when it's parked in the shop.
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Old 12-04-2023, 04:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DW_DX3 View Post
I too have been debating adding a bunk TV. Only way I could see running the wire easily was as you described; through the overhead cabinet.
I cut out a 24" and 32" tv out of cardboard to visually show the wife the difference, the 24" fits better up there. I wanted to keep the TV consistent with Insignia Fire. Best Buy has previous model 24" for $65, can't beat that. Model: NS-24F201NA23 SKU: 6491295 My local store had mixed stock. I picked up a one way swing arm bracket at Target and cut and extended it last night with some rectangle tube I had around. Pictures later.

Riverpark has 1400 dongles in stock, so you are good there.
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Old 12-05-2023, 02:15 AM   #8
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Here is some more info for anyone adding the 4th TV. See the picture of the Wingard plate with the coax hub. There are 5 micro coax 3 of which are, TV2, TV3 and TV4 which go to the existing TVs. The one marked TV1 is the front standard size coax, so that is the one that needs to be used for the bunk TV.

I measured and looked about 10 times making sure my holes were safe to get the ethernet and coax from the data center to the bunk without conflicting with any existing wires, obviously extreme caution. I did not use faceplaces, just 7/8" plastic grommets in the holes so each cable is a home run to the TV without additional connections. I added angled corner wire cover from Lowes to hide the cables (except for the far right jog) at the top back of the cabinet. There is a big void behind the diagonal panel in the left side of the cabinet with existing wires behind it, perfect to pop the wires out right at the TV bracket. The wires will be wrapped in black corrugated wire cover behind the TV. I will probably pull that panel again when installing the TV arm so I can screw it all the way through and add fender washers and nuts instead of just mounting it with wood screws.

My modified TV bracket is painted and drying, that will go in tomorrow night and the TV can be hung. I will just need to wait for the hdmi dongle.
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Old 12-06-2023, 01:24 AM   #9
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I am labeling the remotes. The blue remote and IR extension cable were in the bag of remotes for the main TV and matrix. What are for? Neither has any brand markings.

My bunk TV is mounted but Instill need to wrap the cables. I did not realize the remotes were Bluetooth. Any remote will turn on and off any TV, but only the proper remote will do then rest of the functions. That is ok if we use the power button on the main and bunk TVs and just need to get used to that. Googling shows there isn't another resolution. I remember reading a post that somebody's outside TV kept turning on when not in use, this may be attributed to this with the proximity. Adding a power switch to the outside power outlet would also resolve this.
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Old 12-06-2023, 04:09 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malmz View Post
My bunk TV is mounted but Instill need to wrap the cables. I did not realize the remotes were Bluetooth. Any remote will turn on and off any TV, but only the proper remote will do then rest of the functions. That is ok if we use the power button on the main and bunk TVs and just need to get used to that. Googling shows there isn't another resolution. I remember reading a post that somebody's outside TV kept turning on when not in use, this may be attributed to this with the proximity. Adding a power switch to the outside power outlet would also resolve this.
Your remote issue was one of the reasons I switched out the living room and bedroom TVs to different brands. First, I wanted 4K Smart TVs but also TVs that I felt filled their areas/openings better. Plus the remote issue. Now the only Insignia TV is the exterior one.

In the living room I went with a 42" LG C3 OLED TV and a mount with a longer arm. This TV is pricey but very thin and sits more flush to the wall than the factory Insignia TV.

In the bedroom I went with a 32" Samsung 4K QLED TV. I reused the hinge mount, but it rid require changing the mounting position. I also installed a black cabinet handle on the underside of the hinge mount so my little wife can pull it back down without having to grab the TV. And because it's never enough, I installed LED lights in the space behind the TV that come on when the TV is flipped up.

For the bunk TV I have bought another 32" Samsung TV but also going with a wireless HDMI transmitter and receiver so I did not need to run Ethernet to that TV for HDMI matrix connection.
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Old 12-06-2023, 04:13 AM   #11
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I am labeling the remotes. The blue remote and IR extension cable were in the bag of remotes for the main TV and matrix. What are for? Neither has any brand markings.
That is the 4-view camera remote. I also labeled these remotes on the back so my wife would not ask what they go to.
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Old 12-06-2023, 10:34 AM   #12
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All good info DW_DX3.

As suggested, perhaps I will swap out the main TV later if it drives us nuts. That should break it up.
I considered the wireless hdmi adapters but figured I was running coax anyway for digital antenna TV and also didn't know if there would be any lag of say the bedroom and bunk TVs were on together, that is why I was trying to keep everything the same as well as learning only one style of TV menu format.
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Old 12-07-2023, 12:59 AM   #13
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All set, just need my dongle and to pretty up the power cable to the bunk TV.

I added a couple of locators to the bunk box lid so the space under can be utilized and the lid can be dropped in place.

As a bonus I found a happy space for the theater seat tables up there. I added a clip strap and felt pads on the wall where it touches, a felt sheet between the top surfaces, and 4" of 3" pool noodle to keep the cup holders aligned. This works for me.
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