M2 Force 37TS bedroom slide malfunction

Invisibleman · 11-05-2023, 09:14 PM

I've looked at the user manual and the Norco information. But the one missing part is how do you access the components. My slide has malfunctioned on one side. The cable is slack. I suspect it's just popped off a pully perhaps. But before I just start popping panels apart in the bedroom I thought someone could head me in the right direction of how to get access.

roonabeck · 11-05-2023, 09:56 PM

In my bunkhouse floorplan the mechanics for the bedroom cable-operated slide is against the outside wall under the slide. There are some screws hidden in the carpeting of the trim that goes along the bottom of the slide; remove the screws and that bottom carpet-covered panel comes off and you can get to the motor and chains and cables and adjustments.

My cables had become a little slack last year and I found two adjustment mechanisms traveling in opposite directions were catching on each other resulting in a popping/lurching behavior when pulling the slide in. After tensioning the cables properly it’s been fine.

**bclemens** · 11-06-2023, 10:25 AM

If you search for "norco" or cable slide there are lots of threads on this.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...me-220873.html

This is one where Brian did a complete cable replacement.

as well as newer
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ut-240451.html

Invisibleman · 11-06-2023, 10:47 AM

Found the problem. Not sure what to do about it. It seems all six screws attaching the pully mechanism on the right (rear of coach) side has sheared off. I was able to get a view of this by pushing back the carpeted panel on the lower side of the bed. Even if I could reattach this the question remains why did this shear off. Seems might need to access the entire system which seems it would require taking up the entire bed frame?

Invisibleman · 11-06-2023, 10:52 AM

I would add that there was no sign or issues until last night when going to slide out it clearly was cockeyed. I tried moving in and out and sure seemed only one side was working. Looking from the outside, now with the slide about half way out, I could see the cable slack. And that is how I have left it. Fortunately I just arrived at it's Phoenix RV site where it will be for a while. So not an emergency.

**bclemens** · 11-06-2023, 11:19 AM

Those motors are very strong. The motor will torque out, but if you have really good voltage/amperage and hold the button too long it does not torque out soon enough. That is why we started putting resettable breakers in here....to get the breaker to trip before the motor pulls too hard.

**bclemens** · 11-06-2023, 11:25 AM

PS. Norco is a 12month warranty, but I do think they match our 2 year structural warranty. However, based on the coach registration date, it looks like even the 2 year expired in May of 23.

https://forestriverinc.com/files/Com...g%20Manual.pdf

In any event, these are fairly easy to work on once you understand them. In fact, FOURWH, just helped the Cooks replace their bedroom slide on a bunk model (which is more complicated). I think they did it in the driveway...not sure how long it took/

KRedburn · 11-07-2023, 01:44 PM

I had an issue with my 2018 DX3 rear slide. Had the lower right cable (from outside looking at slide) jump between the pulleys, jammed up and ripped the pulley assembly out of the wall. Found only one screw was into the backer material.

Had a 6 inch 3x6 angle iron drilled to match the pulley assembly mount and anchored this to the floor and to the wall ribs with the backer board in it.

Then I put in new cables on that pulley assembly due to being severely frayed, adjusted all cables for proper tension and then reassembled the interior.

Took a while to do this. About 3 days mainly due to nearest RV parts place was 180 mile round trip.

After all was back together (testing was done before final assembly) I changed the automatic breaker for the slide from 20 amp to 10 amp. This is a safety change to cut power to that motor if one should hold the button too long.
(That motor has a ton of torque with 20 amp feed to it)

Haven't had an issue since but do wish I had fabricated my angle brackets for both sides.

It is not too difficult of a job if you have the proper tools.

Invisibleman · 11-08-2023, 08:27 AM

Ken. Very interesting. I had also thought of reinforcing the wall for the pully mount. But, at this point I just don't have the time, nor motivation if I can get it working and secured. I didn't have the cable damage that I can see so far so I believe I can simply remount the pullies. I did have the threaded end of one of the cables get bent, I have no clue how or why, and the cable had jammed between the two pullies so I had to dissemble and free that up. I've been able to straighten it and got a 1/4-20 nut on it. I am now struggling with getting the chain back on the sprocket (in tight quarters) without falling off, long enough to tighten the cables.

If you had to replace the cables, how did you get them wrapped around the top. There is a very large wood trim inside around the slide the I can't even see around. Did you have to remove that trim? I'm not out of the woods yet, starting on day-2. I'll post my progress and results.

I am now wondering, should there be a significant malfunction of cable or mounting failure, what is to keep the slide from either just rolling out, or if you push it in, how can you secure it to get it to a facility for repair. It is pretty easy to push in/out since it is a relatively small slide.

Invisibleman · 11-08-2023, 09:00 AM

Just noticing that both Ken and my malfunctions seem suspiciously similar in cause, that being the cable jumping the pully and jambing between the two pullies. Perhaps there could be a preventivie maintenance notice to get the cables adjusted to the proper tension periodically to minimize the chances of this occuring. I am only guessing the cable adjustment to be at the route of the problem. But, I am sure new cable is going to stretch after use. The adjustment is pretty easy once you know where to get to the adjustment points Just an idea. It may save someone else from the trouble of a more significant problem.

KRedburn · 11-08-2023, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Invisibleman

Just noticing that both Ken and my malfunctions seem suspiciously similar in cause, that being the cable jumping the pully and jambing between the two pullies. Perhaps there could be a preventivie maintenance notice to get the cables adjusted to the proper tension periodically to minimize the chances of this occuring. I am only guessing the cable adjustment to be at the route of the problem. But, I am sure new cable is going to stretch after use. The adjustment is pretty easy once you know where to get to the adjustment points Just an idea. It may save someone else from the trouble of a more significant problem.

If any cable "sags" more that 1/2 inch then it should be adjusted up. IMO

Perhaps a cable "keeper" could be mounted over the pulleys to prevent a cable from coming out from the pulley track.

If your power line to the motor has a 20amp circuit breaker in the 12v panel make sure you change it to 10amp.

Now when I operate the cable slide I run till I hear it start to "load" at the stops then just tap the switch so the pressure is removed from the cable assembly. I also keep an eye on the cable tensions every time I use it. If one goes suddenly slack then investigate for larger issue (pulleys coming out of wall, cable out of pulley, etc.)

KRedburn · 11-08-2023, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Invisibleman

If you had to replace the cables, how did you get them wrapped around the top. There is a very large wood trim inside around the slide the I can't even see around. Did you have to remove that trim? I'm not out of the woods yet, starting on day-2. I'll post my progress and results.

I taped the new cable to the old damaged cable after removing the end on the old cable and used it to pull the new cable in. The slide was half in order to access the upper pulleys to get the cable into the pulley track. takes two to work the cable in.

Invisibleman · 11-08-2023, 02:19 PM

I believe to have found another conflict, or the conflict, which is clearly part of the problem, but I don't know what to do about it. The right side SLIDE OUT adjustment block hits the motor when within a few inches of all the way out. (see picture) This would explain why the top adjuster rod was bent (as can be seen in photo) and snapped off. You can also see that the block is dragging behind the motor, hence it appears to be ascue. I realize I don't have the chain adjustment locknut tightened down or the foam blocks in place but I'm still tweaking adjustments. In the factory Accu-Slide adjustment YouTube you can see the block does in fact go behind the motor. However they appear to have just a bit more room. The only fix I can see would be to space the motor 1/4" or so off the wall. Something I am not going to undertake. I suppose the only other solution would be to change the lengths of the cables and/or chain so the block does not have to pass by the motor, if that is even possible. Also something I am not undertaking. I am going to try to favor the top of the block to the outside and lock it in place, hoping that will fix it, for now. That said, I will always be leary of moving this slide. Open to suggestions. I may see if I can run this by the manufacturer, NORCO INDUSTRY, if I can get ahold of them. They seem to be in Elkhart probably close to Dynamax. One other thing, it would seem to me it would have been a lot easier to work on this, like PM adjustments if the motor and adjustement were on the top, instead of under the bed platform which makes doing anything really difficult. Looks to me there should be room. Just would need a means of removing the top trim for access.

Here's the YouTube video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUIW7kkJa5I

KRedburn · 11-08-2023, 03:13 PM

Cant that adjusting block so it tilts away from the wall in front of the motor.

Invisibleman · 11-08-2023, 05:17 PM

Not really. You'd have to tip it practically horizontal to avoid the motor and then it would collide when passing the other block in slide-in, as the video points out. I surmise the cables may need to be reconfigured somehow so that the block never reaches the motor. Or, the motor needs a longer shaft that would lower the gear. As it is now, there just isn't enough room for the block and the motor. Even if the motor was spaced a little further from the wall, although allowing a bit more room, because the block is getting pretty close to the gear there isn't a lot of give in the chain at that point.

Invisibleman · 11-08-2023, 07:38 PM

SOLVED (I think). After much todo getting as much cable slack as I could, I managed to mount the pully block about 3/4" lower than original. I wouldn't have thought that little bit lower would have made that much difference in the angle, but it did so that the adjustment block now completely misses the motor. If I had enough cable the pully assemply could be lowered a full inch or maybe an 1-1/4" which would provide even more clearance. Lesson learned.

Red Roadrunner · 11-17-2023, 09:06 AM

[QUOTE=Invisibleman;2904141]Found the problem. Not sure what to do about it. It seems all six screws attaching the pully mechanism on the right (rear of coach) side has sheared off. I was able to get a view of this by pushing back the carpeted panel on the lower side of the bed. Even if I could reattach this the question remains why did this shear off. Seems might need to access the entire system which seems it would require taking up the entire bed frame?[/QUOTE

Most likely the screws are of poor quality metal. Just the nice smooth bounce LOL of your coach over well maintained highways could cause the metal against metal on the screws fatigue. When you replace the screws make sure they are registered for quality management. I worked for a company that supplied hardware for several large manufacturing companies. Back in the 1980's the amount of failures of fasteners was so bad that there was an International Standard established.

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