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Old 07-31-2018, 06:03 PM   #1
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New Isata 5 36 DS

helo all, I purchased a 2019 Isata 36 DS, and thanks to this forum for keeping me rolling. I needed to divert my way home to visit family and use their computer to go over this forum- thanks!

I had read through the different articles and may help- I used to have a RAM 3500.

On trip home, I had problems with fueling, after a couple days of a couple hours a day fueling I found out to turn generator off for fueling and then I re-routed the fuel lines to optimize.

Then problems with black tank thinking it was full, I found the sensors on tank and moved them (they were about 1/3 and 1/2 of tank)- guessing it fixed it.

The camera system worked a few times now just always the blues screen for turning or backing. So hoping someone has ideas for camera system. It was dark to start- turned up contrast, color and about everything else- I turned down the volume- I can't remember if I heard stuff from back?

I've read posts about 3500 and 5500 floor mats- they are not the same. The original RAM carpet mats were easy to see difference (but minor); but I still use the Weathertech mats from 3500- close enough.

Some were talking about the DEF, I think I used about the same amount of DEF with 3500 to trade in for 5500. The indicator for 5500 seemed to take a long time before it started moving and it's not linear- it sits full for a long time; but a large tank.

The biggest thing with 3500 verses 5500 was the gearing- the 3500 had a much lower great ratio (3.42) verses 5500 (4.88). The truck would cruise at higher speed; but suck more fuel. The Isata 5 36 DS is geared to haul! It was mostly empty, not pulling anything; but cruised all the Mtn Passes of Montana, Idaho and Washington State- very good gearing- verses truck doing lots of shifting.

I stuck to 65 mph, got 10 + mpg on new engine- about what I got with Truck, Camper and Jeep on trailer- it got better after 30,000 miles.

The Isata drives much better then truck/camper- the Truck was my Rubicon Support vehicle- so guessing the Isata will get it's Rubicon Stickers too.

I'm also having problem with Inverter? After getting home and unpacking, I turned off inverter on inside pad to save the batteries- my home has a AC Fridge. Then after Parking for a couple days I tried to turn it back on- not working. But I also added 2 AGM batteries to the system- so the power was disconnected for a half hour? I called Dynamax; but late in day and he was as familiar with my model. So expecting call in morning. I'm new to this and started looking through Inverter documentation, too much new stuff to figure out. Leaving my head spinning. I did look through the setting and is was set to wet batteries- so changed them to AGM- but they have AGM1 and AGM2. So guessing something timed out and lost it's memory?

So did I do the correct thing for storing the house for a short time- just turn off inverter- use the solar panels to keep batteries fresh?

Thanks
Rick
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Old 08-01-2018, 07:01 AM   #2
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On mine 2017, there is a power button on top of the inverter that you can't see. My inverter turned off and it took me a day or two to find it. With a mechanics mirror.
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Old 08-01-2018, 07:26 AM   #3
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use the battery disconnect switch when not in use. Even with the inverter off there is still a draw on the coach batteries. The solar panels will keep the coach batteries charged.
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Old 08-01-2018, 08:57 AM   #4
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What inverter and how did you turn it off?
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Old 08-01-2018, 08:58 AM   #5
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Camera system is likely a loose cable at the video switcher.

I had a loose cable on my sub at home...I told the installer that it just was not the right plug. He came over, said it was likely loose. With lots of force, it snaps into place. I had no idea...but I was not used to the AV cables snapping into place. Maybe I was doing it wrong all these years.
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Old 08-01-2018, 10:15 AM   #6
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Inverter?

To turn Inverter off I used the interior Inverter panel switch, on the Magnum Energy Remote Control- I thought that seemed like best/easiest place to turn it off.

I looked on the side of Inverter unit and found the little switch- it does not seem to do anything, I checked incoming power is good and I don't find any output power- so it's off.

While looking through the Inverter Remote Panel, I found it set to flooded batteries- factory default, I first switched to AGM1, then this morning switched to AGM2- doesn't seem to change anything- the solar panels have charged the Batteries- so that is still working. But fridge and microwave are dead.

Where is the Video Switch? I also do not have the factory owners manual- only the one from Dynamax website and doesn't really have specific info.
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Old 08-01-2018, 10:17 AM   #7
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As I recall, the video switch box is below the metal plate covering the area where the center console would be. Lift up the carpet and you can get access to the cover.

I only asked on the inverter as the Xantrex can be a little confusing. he Magnum is a little more straight forward.

I know the little ones we use (1000 watt) you have to "Push and Hold" to turn on.
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Old 08-01-2018, 11:58 AM   #8
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Inverter & cameras

I tried pushing and hold, counted to about 8 and heard click- now the power light on inverter/charger is blinking about once per second. Inverter light is still on for display panel and the charger is now charging the batteries.

Not sure if this matters, when I purchased the extra batteries, they did not have Connectors to make 4/0 jumpers to connect the batteries- so used remade 2/0 jumpers.

Also I pulled up carpet and alum panel and found a Bosch module, with 2 yellow connectors. Not sure how to remove connectors; but seem fully inserted?
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Old 08-01-2018, 02:02 PM   #9
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Bosh module would not be what I am talking about. The video switcher will be connex as I recall.
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Old 08-01-2018, 04:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrangler4X4 View Post

On trip home, I had problems with fueling, after a couple days of a couple hours a day fueling I found out to turn generator off for fueling and then I re-routed the fuel lines to optimize.
Can you elaborate on what you did to optimize the routing of the fuel lines?

There are several of us that are fighting this slow filling issue and I’d be curious to hear what you’ve done and if you saw any improvement while fueling. If you saw improvement, how much improved was it? In other words, did improvement mean the problem is GONE and you can fill your coach as fast as the pump will go? ….or can you just fill a little bit faster now?
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Old 08-01-2018, 05:55 PM   #11
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To help the fuel to flow in I ended up crawling around under truck/chassis partly to note where things are and differences from Truck. I pretty much saw my feeling issue, someone had probably removed the ties that suspended the fuel pipe. I'm guessing at dealer when they ran cable through the area and later I saw same ties on cable. So my fuel pipe was mostly horizontal on a flat surface and it hung low at the junction to the tank- sort of like under your sink- a trap! So tightened and ran a few new ties for additional support.

Also, I straighten the breather tubing (small tubes and tubing), again thank you to this forum and Dynamax supplied drawings and some photos from Casey? My tube to Generator was turned and kind of kinked, there was a tee or two that I aligned- took some tension out of it. Mostly just aligned like the factory schematics, retired engineer- so like drawings.

I can't say it flows all the time everywhere, I am able to walk around while fueling- still cautious and learning to survey the fueling stations. When it slopes everything wrong, I still need to slow flow down; but I'm old and grouchy- so I go to next station.

I just looked at tubing again, at the metal tubing as it passes the back of the frame there is 2.5" of clearance, I thought about raising it further; but then I'd need to shorten the rubber hose that connects tubing to fuel inlet. This is an option if required, maybe some day?

On the fuel tank end there isn't anything to suspend the fuel line from; but from other ties its pretty close already. I wish I had all the schematics- easier to understand?
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Old 08-02-2018, 07:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrangler4X4 View Post
To help the fuel to flow in I ended up crawling around under truck/chassis partly to note where things are and differences from Truck. I pretty much saw my feeling issue, someone had probably removed the ties that suspended the fuel pipe. I'm guessing at dealer when they ran cable through the area and later I saw same ties on cable. So my fuel pipe was mostly horizontal on a flat surface and it hung low at the junction to the tank- sort of like under your sink- a trap! So tightened and ran a few new ties for additional support.

Also, I straighten the breather tubing (small tubes and tubing), again thank you to this forum and Dynamax supplied drawings and some photos from Casey? My tube to Generator was turned and kind of kinked, there was a tee or two that I aligned- took some tension out of it. Mostly just aligned like the factory schematics, retired engineer- so like drawings.

I can't say it flows all the time everywhere, I am able to walk around while fueling- still cautious and learning to survey the fueling stations. When it slopes everything wrong, I still need to slow flow down; but I'm old and grouchy- so I go to next station.

I just looked at tubing again, at the metal tubing as it passes the back of the frame there is 2.5" of clearance, I thought about raising it further; but then I'd need to shorten the rubber hose that connects tubing to fuel inlet. This is an option if required, maybe some day?

On the fuel tank end there isn't anything to suspend the fuel line from; but from other ties its pretty close already. I wish I had all the schematics- easier to understand?
Can you please post some photos over on the I5 Fueling thread? It'd sure help me and others to understand what you did with those vent lines and fuel return lines. Thanks for this post.
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Old 08-05-2018, 06:35 PM   #13
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RV Filler Plumbing

I risked messing up what was working; but maybe refined it more? To be able to see the brass fittings I had to remove my supporting the tie wraps.

This photo is with ties removed showing orientation of fittings. When I first started there was tension in the hoses and fittings were not horizontal. Some created from the bundle of wires laying on the fittings and even tie wrapped to, effectively, push everything down. Cut a couple wraps that pulled things down, bundle now can move up a few inches. The first brass fitting goes to the onboard generator and has always had a drip loop on it. The second fitting is the fuel tank breather connection. All the hose clamps are now accessible, I know I moved clamps around- don't remember which ones were issues.

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This photo shows everything hanging, the cables are still resting on fittings.

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This photo is the new tie point for the tie wraps, it's about half way down the tubing. Originally the fuel line was tied to the cable bundle for support.

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This photo is filling tube with everything supported. I was able to move the whole filling tube up maybe 10" from how mine originally hung- it was just hanging there- the only part that was sort of supported was up by the fittings. The cable bundle was pushing down on the filling tubing and the small hoses were getting tweaked. I remember loosening hose clamps and twisting things, taking tension out of hoses and aligning the fittings- I think the Dynamax schematic must have said to make them horizontal (that I still can't find now that I want to reference it). This time I pushed up on cable bundle more and was able to get the fitting end up higher! I know the rear tie wrap support is up a little higher- using better tie wraps- since I'm home now. I used my phone to try to get the angle of the filling tube- its about 2 degrees downward slope toward the tank. I do not think I have any low spot in my filling tubing- it all looks like it's about the same 2 degree slope.

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I hope this helps, now I need to do more driving so I get the opportunity to fill it again.
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