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Old 08-18-2022, 06:07 PM   #1
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New Member Intro and First Question(s)

Greetings!


We're new owners of a Dynamax Isata 5 30FW - X based in the Twin Cities. We've replaced our Lance 1685 Travel Trailer for more room and comfort, as we plan to put many miles on our new rig in the coming years. We used our previous rig in temps as low as -8F and as high as 108F, so we plan to put this coach through its paces!


So far, we love the ride and layout of new coach!


But... we're also working through some bugs and glitches (to be expected) and are having difficulty receiving the support we're looking for from the dealer/vendors. So we're reaching out to see what help we can get here:


1. We're experiencing the issues with the GE air conditioning units as described by Mr. Clemens last week. (Also identified by our dealer prior to taking delivery.)



2. There's a sensor issue with the fresh tank and the dealer has a new part on the way.



3. The G12 keeps going offline. We've come to realize the issue seems to be associated with linking it to the mobile app. It'll come back after several hours, but renders many of the systems useless in the meantime. We've put in three calls to Firefly in a week and have not yet received a call back. We'd really love to know where the unit is in the coach as cycling it may help?


4. The Winegard WiFi system has been a clunky setup. We've got it running in the driveway, but are no longer able to access the admin page to determine whether it is connected to our home's WiFi or the new AT&T SIM we installed in it. Planning on putting a call into Winegard tomorrow.



5. When running an 1800w coffee maker off the inverter, the GFCI trips mid brew. It would seem like it should be able to handle this load???


6. The "OVHD" switch on the bedroom Firefly panel seems to be hooked up to the CO2 detector. It does not control any lights, but when it is pushed, the CO2 detector buzzes and the green light on the detector dims in and out.



7. We'd love any tips anyone has for leveling our coach. We were really looking forward to "auto" leveling coming from TT world, but are finding we're constantly in "excessive slope" territory. The tech at our dealership (who did the walk-thru) informed us that lifting the wheels off the ground was "fine" but we understand that NOT to be true.


8. We'll upgrade to a 50amp connection at home soon, but for now, we receive a fault that reads "Switch 3 has a dead battery or is disconnected" when we hook our coach up to the house's 110 outlets with the dealer provided converters.



We'd love to hear any input the forum has on any of these issues. Again, we're super stoked about our new rig and can't wait to adventure in it in tip-top shape!


-The Tatzlocks
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Old 08-18-2022, 06:45 PM   #2
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First off welcome to the family, you will love your coach.

Let me answer a few of these that I know of.

1. Winegard is wonky, no matter what. Sometimes it lets you in, sometimes it doesnt. I have found going to the ip address in Chrome on my ipad works a lot better than there app, their app is horrible. Also, when you are at home and have a good wifi signal, check the firmware on the Winegard, after an update it normally works well, if not, pull the power to the unit and it will do a soft reset.

2. Leveling. This is our second Dynamax, and I have only used auto level once, back in 2015. We bought a simple bubble level, put it in the middle of the floor in the kitchen and manual level with the app, it is quick and doesnt lift any of the tires off of the ground.

3. No 50 amp at home, I would invest in a 50 amp surge protector for the pole. Ours gives us a reading to let us know if the pole is wired wrong etcÖ I still have it even though there is a built in surge protector, I never saw an issue with having too much protection.

I am sure others will chime in on the other questions. Good luck!
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Old 08-18-2022, 07:57 PM   #3
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Congratulations and welcome to the Dynamax group.

What we can answer see below, based on experience with our 2021 30FW over the last 30K travel miles.

First thing we learned, Dynamax builds a great product and support is outstanding. Now most dealers know for certain that the coach has 2 axles with 6 tires on it. That's it for most of it, the rest of issues they might learn while diving into it, or make them worse.
This user forum and that on Facebook has helped us 99% of the time to a: avoid operator errors and b: find solutions to issues found along the way on how to fix them, some like the TPMS issue is still being worked on to find a solution which is chassis based. Any forum item with 3 pages or more, we check all the time to find a solution or avoid operator error(90%)

4. The Winegard WiFi system has been a clunky setup. We've got it running in the driveway, but are no longer able to access the admin page to determine whether it is connected to our home's WiFi or the new AT&T SIM we installed in it. Planning on putting a call into Winegard tomorrow.

We called Winegard and a great support staff helped us with the setup and it works 100% of the time if we have cellular reception. We now also have Starlink on board for the times when Verizon unlimited data really is not unlimited.

5. When running an 1800w coffee maker off the inverter, the GFCI trips mid brew. It would seem like it should be able to handle this load???
Get a Jura Swiss Made Coffee Maker, works great when hooked up to minimum 30AMP shore or even runs off our 400AMP hour battery bank.
Check your incoming voltage on the Firefly panel as low voltage might be the cause of your trouble, as we just found out at a 30AMP hookup. Anything under 107V causes issues.


7. We'd love any tips anyone has for leveling our coach. We were really looking forward to "auto" leveling coming from TT world, but are finding we're constantly in "excessive slope" territory. The tech at our dealership (who did the walk-thru) informed us that lifting the wheels off the ground was "fine" but we understand that NOT to be true.
We always autolevel and the front wheels are of the ground at times, which is not an issues but looks funny. We rough level the coach with leveling blocks beforehand to minimize the funny look.


8. We'll upgrade to a 50amp connection at home soon, but for now, we receive a fault that reads "Switch 3 has a dead battery or is disconnected" when we hook our coach up to the house's 110 outlets with the dealer provided converters.

We have a 50AMP connection at the house to be able to run the AC and everything else while getting the RV ready at home for our next adventure.

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-19-2022, 06:24 AM   #4
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Regarding the leveling question-
I know everyone has their own opinion on this, but we have found that manual leveling is faster, more accurate, doesnít give us the excessive slope error, and keeps all wheels on the ground.
I carry a 2 foot level, and put it on the floor to do a rough check first. If the rear is too high, I dump the air, then proceed with front/back and right/left leveling. It only takes a few minutes, and delivers better results for us.
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Old 08-19-2022, 06:29 AM   #5
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Welcome from Virginia !!!!

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Old 08-19-2022, 07:00 AM   #6
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Welcome,
Your first stop for helpful info is Dynamax channel on YouTube.

https://youtube.com/c/DynamaxRVs

Correct. Donít lift front tires off the ground when leveling. Look at the video on setting the null point for auto level. I use auto level then all the time and then final adjustment with manual if needed. I use a small circle bubble level. If Iím at a site with a big slope I use leveling blocks under the tires.

I use a coffee maker with no problem. My I5 is a 17 so the GFI is on the breaker. Check the wires are secure in the breaker. Are you running anything else that causes a draw when the coffee maker is on?

Happy trails.
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Old 08-19-2022, 09:58 AM   #7
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For the inverter, we have experienced the same thing our 1800w kettle will trip the inverter. Well it doesn't trip it just cycles which sucks for all the other stuff running on it. We have found that the fridge uses around 30A when it is running off the inverter and around 10A is the normal other load when the inverter is on so a base load of 40A. When we turn on the kettle the load goes up to around 170A, you would think a 3000w inverter should be able to handle the load. So now we turn the fridge off before we run the microwave or the kettle when running off the inverter. We also use about 5% of our battery capacity just to boil water in the kettle.
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Old 08-19-2022, 02:04 PM   #8
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1. There is a fix for that coming. Turning off 12V power should reset access. You will need to get an appointment to likely change out the communication module. calling GE might be the best bet as they have more dealer outlets than we do. (I think)

2. I have explained this one some other threads. it could be that it is not level and when it is bouncing sonar off the water surface it is coming back at an angle and missing the sensor

3. When you say the G12...do you mean the touch panel? The touch panel is just an interface device for the G12 which is the main portion. When you say "renders useless"...ALL interface devices? or just the app?

4. If you read the manual, there is a way to reset it to factory defaults. I find in most cases a reboot is necessary and there is almost ALWAYS firmware updates needed.

5. 1800watts is a decent amount. 1800/120=15 amps. There are likely other items on that circuit as well.

6. Just a note...the OVHD lights are the reading lights in the bedroom. They have their oen "on-off" switch on the light "by design" so I can turn off mine, if my wife is still using hers. So just because you turn it ON, does not mean the light will come on. It is "touch control" as I recall. just look on the light fixture itself.

7. Don't lift the tires off the ground...but 99% of the time, leveling issues are related to an improperly set null point. Watch this video

8. Switch 3 is nothing more than a wireless switch. In most cases it is the one in the utility bay...it has nothing to do with what shore power is. You can repair the switch....or do like I do and ignore it. If I need to do something out there, I use the phone app.

My #1 advice. Subscribe to you Youtube page...watch the videos. We cover many of the questions there already.

https://www.youtube.com/c/DynamaxRVs
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Old 08-19-2022, 02:12 PM   #9
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Old 08-19-2022, 02:53 PM   #10
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Thanks for the welcomes and responses everyone! We're about to head our for another two nights in our coach and hope to shake out a few more bugs along the way.


In response to @bclemens reply:



3. When you say the G12...do you mean the touch panel? The touch panel is just an interface device for the G12 which is the main portion. When you say "renders useless"...ALL interface devices? or just the app?

We do mean the G12 itself. Please see the first attached photo from the OP. None of the switches on the touch screen or app operate when this fault occurs. The A/C and Waterpump cannot be turned on/off without it operating. Most of the lights can be controlled via their respective analog switches. (I think I was unable to get the dinette light to come on, even using its analog switch.) Slides and levelers work with their analog switches. The remote Firefly panels also DO NOT work when this happens.

6. Just a note...the OVHD lights are the reading lights in the bedroom. They have their oen "on-off" switch on the light "by design" so I can turn off mine, if my wife is still using hers. So just because you turn it ON, does not mean the light will come on. It is "touch control" as I recall. just look on the light fixture itself.


Yes, we're savvy on and appreciate this design however, it does not work that way in our coach. Regardless of the lights being on or off at their switches the touch panel controls ONLY effect the CO2 detector.



8. Switch 3 is nothing more than a wireless switch. In most cases it is the one in the utility bay...it has nothing to do with what shore power is. You can repair the switch....or do like I do and ignore it. If I need to do something out there, I use the phone app.




My #1 advice. Subscribe to you Youtube page...watch the videos. We cover many of the questions there already.


Love the Dynamax YouTube page and have been watching it for over a year prior to the purchase of the coach. Your presence in the community (we've been eavesdropping on this forum for just as long) and as a proud face of the brand was definitely a determining factor in us choosing the Dynamax brand. Thank you for supporting not only your brand but also your end-users.


[/QUOTE]
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Old 08-20-2022, 09:13 AM   #11
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1. Side note. None of the lights have analog switches. Those are digital wireless switches that act just as the touch screen does. It sends a signal back to the G12. So if lights are working, then "some" part of the G12 is. You didn't say what year you coach was....but have you pulled any of the switches to check the batteries? (including touch screen)? (Nevermind, I see 22 in your signature. Seems odd it would need batteries...so it is likely something deeper)

6. Odd. The CO2 detector is completely separate...there must be something pinned wrong in the harness or the G12 does not have the right floor plan/version.

Is this happening intermittently, or all the time?

I do know, at one time, the pins in the G12 harness were being cleaned off by the chassis upfitter. If made the ends flair out and so the harness pins were not making good connection into the G12 board. That main harness is under the bottom drawer on the passenger side. Pull that drawer, you will see the G12 and the main harness (pretty thick). The weight of it, would pull at an angle and some things would stop working.
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Old 08-22-2022, 11:19 AM   #12
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Thanks @bclemens.

Still continuing to have issues with the G12. It cuts out intermittently, once daily, then resets sometime over night. There was a bundle of wires that could have potentially caused connection issues and I've relocated that bundle to an area whereas they no-longer rest on the G12 itself. Will continue to monitor.


***As I was waiting for my attachment photos to upload, I started experimenting with jiggling the "J17 Real Time Clock" wire and it seems to be effecting this situation. I've crimped the connector down and its formed a tighter connection, but still cuts out. When I jiggle it, it'll come back, then cut out again within a few minutes***



Firefly DID attempt to call this morning, but disconnected the call without leaving a message before I was able to answer.



The CO2 detector/OVHD bed light thing is constant. Not intermittent at all.


To prove we're not all "doom and gloom" over here, we had a great time urban camping in Duluth this weekend. Stayed in the DECC parking lot and walked to this weekend's Art Festival and waterfront attractions. Love the coach! She drove it for the first time and even said she enjoyed driving it more than being a passenger.
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Old 08-22-2022, 11:49 AM   #13
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I also get a periodic fault for the #3 switch.

Two ways to resolve it: Either, remove the panel (its a press fit) and place it as close as possible to the G12 (without needing to remove the panel) and the error will disappear in a minute;
Or, pair it again, the instructions are on the Firefly screen when you tap the Error message. I have not needed to remove the panel for this to work but I suppose it would help;
Or remove the panel, slide the battery out of its slot, wait 30 secs, replace the battery.

YMMV.
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Old 08-22-2022, 11:57 AM   #14
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Your G12 problem sounds like a loose connection somewhere. Have you checked the torques on the main power and ground nuts? There is a spec for their torque on the Firefly web site.

Have you checked whether any of the harnesses plugged into the G12 are hanging on their connectors. The movement of these over the inevitable ruts and holes of the highway cause the very low voltages at these connectors to generate noise that results in Firefly controls going off line. These harnesses need extensive strain relief. I have used some chain linked tie wraps secured to a self tapper mounted above the harnesses. Solved my problems mostly.

Another solution is to download the connection chart from Firefly and tighten the connections at the sockets on the G12 where you are seeing problems. The connectors are grouped in multiplug sockets and some of the male connections are not a tight fit. This fit can be improved by increasing the size of the male connector by pushing a sharp point into the connector thus pressuring it against its counterpart.
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Old 08-22-2022, 12:00 PM   #15
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I’m thinking the pickup on the G12 board is bad at the J17 wire. Watch in the video as the fault is displayed, cleared and then happens again. Momentarily, (before I’m even able to notice while shooting the video) the clock displays the accurate time of 11:43 before flashing back to its fault default time of 6:59am.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1o5ti99ma...FGmEswoEa?dl=0
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