No 12v power at 7 pin on Isata 5 - where to look

[Winger1]

New Isata 5 30FW, on my Chevy pickup I had to install an underhood fuse for the 12 hot
Is it the same here? Everything else is working, just no 12 v power to toad at MH 7 pin
Thanks

[caseymyers]

There was a thread on he awhile back and as I remember the RAM factory harness is extended by Morrdye or Dynamax and should follow what RAM does for trailer connection. Look online for the RAM pin nomenclature and that should answer you question. I did that for mine just to check and it is wired IAW RAM's pin order.

[Winger1]

Originally Posted by caseymyers

There was a thread on he awhile back and as I remember the RAM factory harness is extended by Morrdye or Dynamax and should follow what RAM does for trailer connection. Look online for the RAM pin nomenclature and that should answer you question. I did that for mine just to check and it is wired IAW RAM's pin order.

"Look online for the RAM pin nomenclature and that should answer you question. I did that for mine just to check and it is wired IAW RAM's pin order"

Not following what this means. Everything else works but the 12v power feed.

Thanks

[caseymyers]

There’s a schematic (RAM) that will tell you what pin should be 12v power.

[Winger1]

I know which pin it is, i wired my Jeep and all is fine. There is just no 12v feed to the correct pin on the mh

[PenJoe]

I thought we had the same problem with our Sunseeker. Turn of the ignition and then search for a live pin. This is done to prevent battery drain.

[traindrv]

Which pin are calling pin 7? On a standard plug the center pin is for reverse lights, when looking at the vehicle plug the 12V is to the right of the notch and the running lights are on the left.

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by traindrv

Which pin are calling pin 7? On a standard plug the center pin is for reverse lights, when looking at the vehicle plug the 12V is to the right of the notch and the running lights are on the left.

It depends on which schematic you look at. The center pin is used for reverse lights on a trailer. However, this is also used to provide a 12 volt circuit to the trailer with the TV ignition in the ON position. Turn off the ignition, the power to the trailer goes off.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by PenJoe

It depends on which schematic you look at. The center pin is used for reverse lights on a trailer. However, this is also used to provide a 12 volt circuit to the trailer with the TV ignition in the ON position. Turn off the ignition, the power to the trailer goes off.

Don't know what schematic you are using where the center pin is the "charging power" pin.

This is the most commonly used 7-Pin plug/receptacle wiring scheme. My Titan came wired this way and my last two trailers were merely "Plug and Play" meaning I had to change nothing.



No doubt there are a lot of trucks or trailers that have been wired the way the owner or tech thought they should be but the above diagram is pretty much standard and has been for years when wiring 7-wire cables. Nice too as I at one time or another tow at least 5 different trailers in the course of a year. Sure would hate to have to re-wire or build adapters


BTW, WIRE COLORS may change, depending on RV manufacturer but the pins they are connected to remain the same for each function.

If there is no 12V at the proper pin, check fuse box for a fuse labeled "Auxilliary Battery, Trailer Charge, or something similar. It will usually be 30 amp. Could also be a circuit breaker or fusible link. Also, make sure there is a relay in the proper position that controls whether power is on or off according to ignition key position. Check diagrams inside fuse/relay boxes and make sure all is where it should be and isn't "blown".

[Winger1]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Don't know what schematic you are using where the center pin is the "charging power" pin.

This is the most commonly used 7-Pin plug/receptacle wiring scheme. My Titan came wired this way and my last two trailers were merely "Plug and Play" meaning I had to change nothing.



No doubt there are a lot of trucks or trailers that have been wired the way the owner or tech thought they should be but the above diagram is pretty much standard and has been for years when wiring 7-wire cables. Nice too as I at one time or another tow at least 5 different trailers in the course of a year. Sure would hate to have to re-wire or build adapters


BTW, WIRE COLORS may change, depending on RV manufacturer but the pins they are connected to remain the same for each function.

If there is no 12V at the proper pin, check fuse box for a fuse labeled "Auxilliary Battery, Trailer Charge, or something similar. It will usually be 30 amp. Could also be a circuit breaker or fusible link. Also, make sure there is a relay in the proper position that controls whether power is on or off according to ignition key position. Check diagrams inside fuse/relay boxes and make sure all is where it should be and isn't "blown".

Thanks, will do.
This is the correct wiring. Its the way I always have wired my trailers or toads. I tried it with the ignition on from the start. Nothing. I know GM shipped their trucks with dummy fuses in this spot. I thought that was a possibility here. The underhood fuse block is not labeled well when it comes to location.
Getting ready for a two week trip so not much time to diagnose. Will work on it when I get home.

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Don't know what schematic you are using where the center pin is the "charging power" pin.

This is the most commonly used 7-Pin plug/receptacle wiring scheme. My Titan came wired this way and my last two trailers were merely "Plug and Play" meaning I had to change nothing.



No doubt there are a lot of trucks or trailers that have been wired the way the owner or tech thought they should be but the above diagram is pretty much standard and has been for years when wiring 7-wire cables. Nice too as I at one time or another tow at least 5 different trailers in the course of a year. Sure would hate to have to re-wire or build adapters


BTW, WIRE COLORS may change, depending on RV manufacturer but the pins they are connected to remain the same for each function.

If there is no 12V at the proper pin, check fuse box for a fuse labeled "Auxilliary Battery, Trailer Charge, or something similar. It will usually be 30 amp. Could also be a circuit breaker or fusible link. Also, make sure there is a relay in the proper position that controls whether power is on or off according to ignition key position. Check diagrams inside fuse/relay boxes and make sure all is where it should be and isn't "blown".

You had me thinking there because we don't have the MH. But there is another configuration as I mentioned. The center pin is 12V auxiliary. It is listed under heavy duty.

https://www.google.com/search?q=7-pi...eGIH8K9E0PlAM:

[bclemens]

I think this is current...maybe it will clear things up.