No AMPS

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by 4XGLMPR

The 1st time i had the problem it was raining and if I remember correctly I did relieve pressure in my AquaGo because I forgot to put the water pressure regulator in. It got wet but continued working as it is made to get wet. Some water did get into the area where I have my sewer drain but that is the same area as my outdoor shower which should be safe from electrical you would think. I continued on our trip staying at numerous other places but each time I would make sure the cord was locked and the ring was tightened. I do not believe mine makes the best seal as sometimes it will turn on me. This is why I purchased a new power cord although mine is brand new. The cord comes in Tuesday. It did not work at any of the camps so I decided to take it the 3-hour drive to my dealer. They tried to replicate my problem but were unable. I asked them if they had used my cord or theirs and they assured me they used mine. I did check with my cord when I went up there to pick it up and it did work. I then went to the Tahoe area for five nights and it worked fine. Today was the last day of another three day camp and it did not work. I must have unhook my power cord 4 or 5 times and made sure it was in the locked position each time. You would think if it was the cord not being in the lock position one of those five times it would have worked. I drove it two hours back to my house and plugged it in to my outdoor outlet and it works fine. It is not 50 amp but the breaker did not trip. I do not have anything plugged in except for factory plugged items. Except for the first rain trip all other campsites seemed normal and I always had someone next to us who's electric was fine although they were running 30 amp.

That's a good detailed post, and half of troubleshooting problems is getting the correct information relayed. Your post above helps tremendously. As you stated, you know what is going on, but may not be taking the amount of time it takes to correctly detail what is going on or the steps taken. That's just all part of it, and we'll see if we can get this figured out.

OK, now about the microwave (which I'm very interested in). Your pic in post #4 shows it on it's own circuit breaker (the 20 amp circuit breaker just to the left of the 20 amp GFCI circuit breaker), but that may not be correct as you stated. Things get miswired/mislabeled. However if the microwave is not on it's own circuit breaker, you are most likely going to overload whatever circuit it may be on in the future when using it.

I am assuming you are currently plugged into your house outlet via 15 or 20 amp adapter. You state that all seems to be working currently too, and the gfci is not tripping. Your microwave should have it's clock display on with the way you are currently connect at your house.

If correct, and the display is on for the microwave, flip off that circuit breaker that is labeled for the microwave. Did the display go off on the microwave?

[TitanMike]

I had a problem similar on an older TT I owned. Only GFCI breaker would trip when plugged in with no power in bathroom or near sink.

Turned out that the outside receptacle had a loose flap and it got wet when it rained or I washed the unit. Replaced the cover, made sure the gasket sealed when flap down, and for good measure replaced the duplex receptacle as well.


Most electricians I've met hate panel mounted GFCI's and would rather see a regular breaker with a Duplex GFCI and the rest of the required outlets just daisy chained off of it.

[llr]

When you have the issue is any 120 volt item working? Fridge on AC, microwave, air conditioner, not heat as it is 12volt.
It sounds to me that the outlet tripping is just one side effect of the issue and is causing a distraction.
Do you have a voltmeter? Are you comfortable working around live power.
Can you post a picture of your AC electric panel, the part with the breakers.
The cord could be the issue as any connection from there to the panel could be.
I am leaning towards an open neutral or ground.
I suspect that a GFCI breaker may trip it saw a voltage differential between common and ground.
On 2nd thought a bad connection would be between the plug on the cord and the transfer switch

[4XGLMPR]

Originally Posted by wmtire

That's a good detailed post, and half of troubleshooting problems is getting the correct information relayed. Your post above helps tremendously. As you stated, you know what is going on, but may not be taking the amount of time it takes to correctly detail what is going on or the steps taken. That's just all part of it, and we'll see if we can get this figured out.

OK, now about the microwave (which I'm very interested in). Your pic in post #4 shows it on it's own circuit breaker (the 20 amp circuit breaker just to the left of the 20 amp GFCI circuit breaker), but that may not be correct as you stated. Things get miswired/mislabeled. However if the microwave is not on it's own circuit breaker, you are most likely going to overload whatever circuit it may be on in the future when using it.

I am assuming you are currently plugged into your house outlet via 15 or 20 amp adapter. You state that all seems to be working currently too, and the gfci is not tripping. Your microwave should have it's clock display on with the way you are currently connect at your house.

If correct, and the display is on for the microwave, flip off that circuit breaker that is labeled for the microwave. Did the display go off on the microwave?

Yes the microwave did go off when i flipped the breaker. Just to go back a little, the metal pole (im not sure what it is called) that the GFI is wired into is not hot when the 20 amp trips making the microwave and TVs go out. I can pigtail from the left pole into the right pole and make it hot. When the 20amp trips everything on the right side of my fuse box goes out. This make sense??

[4XGLMPR]

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

According to the photos you posted in post 5 the microwave has a dedicated 20 amp breaker.

Yes that is true and tried to correct myself a post later. When the 20 amp breaker trips the entire right side of my fuse box goes out including the microwave and tvs and plugs.

[4XGLMPR]

Originally Posted by llr

When you have the issue is any 120 volt item working? Fridge on AC, microwave, air conditioner, not heat as it is 12volt.
It sounds to me that the outlet tripping is just one side effect of the issue and is causing a distraction.
Do you have a voltmeter? Are you comfortable working around live power.
Can you post a picture of your AC electric panel, the part with the breakers.
The cord could be the issue as any connection from there to the panel could be.
I am leaning towards an open neutral or ground.
I suspect that a GFCI breaker may trip it saw a voltage differential between common and ground.
On 2nd thought a bad connection would be between the plug on the cord and the transfer switch

Since this a brand new coach I need to look for a picture showing me where my transfer switch is. Im sorry but I will learn this stuff. I do have a volt meter and dont mind electricity as I have wired several plugs but dont understand the language as I have to keep looking up terms. Just being honest.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by 4XGLMPR

Yes the microwave did go off when i flipped the breaker. Just to go back a little, the metal pole (im not sure what it is called) that the GFI is wired into is not hot when the 20 amp trips making the microwave and TVs go out. I can pigtail from the left pole into the right pole and make it hot. When the 20amp trips everything on the right side of my fuse box goes out. This make sense??

You just ascertained that the microwave is on it's own circuit breaker...so the GFCI circuit breaker tripping shouldn't have any effect on the microwave..... unless we have some weird wiring.

What is confusing is your some of your terminology. Lets see if we can get that correct.

The circuit breakers are what control the 120 volt AC things in your RV (outlets, microwave, outlet television is plugged into, air conditioner). It is circuit breakers like you have in your house, and included this special GFCI circuit breaker you have.

The fuses are for the 12 volt dc items (lights, pumps, fans, furnace, thermostat, etc). The fuses are like what is in your vehicle.

When you say everything on the right side of your "fuse" box goes out, do you mean the 12 volt things protected by automotive fuses...or actually mean the 120 volt AC things on the circuit breaker side.

We may be getting to some meat of the problem too. If you will look at your circuit breakers and the designations below them, you will see every other circuit breaker is on either Line 1 or Line 2.

When that GFCI circuit breaker trips, what exactly are you meaning when nothing on the right works, and you are pigtailing from left pole to right pole.

It's sounding now like you are losing power to either your L1 or L2 bus bar.

[llr]

Originally Posted by 4XGLMPR

Since this a brand new coach I need to look for a picture showing me where my transfer switch is. Im sorry but I will learn this stuff. I do have a volt meter and dont mind electricity as I have wired several plugs but dont understand the language as I have to keep looking up terms. Just being honest.

When it happens remove the cover over the electric panel and measure the voltage from each 50 breaker to the ground buss and the common buss. Then measure between the ground and common buss.

[llr]

Re-reading your post it sounds like you have minimal experience with live power. If you proceed be careful as it can be deadly if not careful.
Set the meter for a 200 volt AC scale or higher

[4XGLMPR]

Originally Posted by wmtire

You just ascertained that the microwave is on it's own circuit breaker...so the GFCI circuit breaker tripping shouldn't have any effect on the microwave..... unless we have some weird wiring.

What is confusing is your some of your terminology. Lets see if we can get that correct.

The circuit breakers are what control the 120 volt AC things in your RV (outlets, microwave, outlet television is plugged into, air conditioner). It is circuit breakers like you have in your house, and included this special GFCI circuit breaker you have.

The fuses are for the 12 volt dc items (lights, pumps, fans, furnace, thermostat, etc). The fuses are like what is in your vehicle.

When you say everything on the right side of your "fuse" box goes out, do you mean the 12 volt things protected by automotive fuses...or actually mean the 120 volt AC things on the circuit breaker side.

We may be getting to some meat of the problem too. If you will look at your circuit breakers and the designations below them, you will see every other circuit breaker is on either Line 1 or Line 2.

When that GFCI circuit breaker trips, what exactly are you meaning when nothing on the right works, and you are pigtailing from left pole to right pole.

It's sounding now like you are losing power to either your L1 or L2 bus bar.

YES,,,The bus bar under my 20 amp GFI seems dead. When the 20amp breaker trips I believe the entire bus bar is dead. The only way I can get power to it is if I pigtail the left bus bar to the right bus bar. Sorry, im calling the bus bar under the 20amp gfi the right side. There are two bus bars up front.

[4XGLMPR]

Originally Posted by llr

Re-reading your post it sounds like you have minimal experience with live power. If you proceed be careful as it can be deadly if not careful.
Set the meter for a 200 volt AC scale or higher

I 100% agree that I have minimal live power experience. But I am always trying to learn. I will retain what I have learned here today. I have an electrician co-worker stopping by Wed and will check unless I figure it out. I will be careful

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by 4XGLMPR

YES,,,The bus bar under my 20 amp GFI seems dead. When the 20amp breaker trips I believe the entire bus bar is dead. The only way I can get power to it is if I pigtail the left bus bar to the right bus bar. Sorry, im calling the bus bar under the 20amp gfi the right side. There are two bus bars up front.

AHHHH, we may be getting some where now. Exactly how are you pigtailing the GFCI (I need exact details, wire colors, what you are running over to what breaker, etc)

I'm about to go eat dinner with some friends so may not respond till I get back.

[cavie]

I have some questions about your panel. It looks to me that you have 2 neutral bars and 1 ground bar, Is this correct? It also looks like your neutral bars are screw down to the bottom of the panel. Is this correct? Is this a metal panel? It also looks like your ground bar is raised off the bottom and possibly on some type of insulating material. Is this correct? Pictures can be deceiving.

If all this is correct your panel is wired wrong. The neutrals (white wires) need to be insulated from the metal and the bare grounds needs to be in contact with the metal can. I don't believe this is your total problem but it does need to be fixed if it as it looks.

If the above is true it explains why the GFI works on you gen and not on shore power.

[4XGLMPR]

Originally Posted by wmtire

AHHHH, we may be getting some where now. Exactly how are you pigtailing the GFCI (I need exact details, wire colors, what you are running over to what breaker, etc)

I'm about to go eat dinner with some friends so may not respond till I get back.

This is the exact wire and positions that I play sit when I pigtailed it. I did it 4 Super Bowl so I can watch my TV that is plugged into an outlet. Otherwise I just use the generator and then I am hot again but I did not want to run the generator for the entire Super Bowl.

I had it in the number three spot on the left side in the number two on the right side

[bclemens]

If you are not familiar with what you are doing, I would get it in to someone to look at ASAP. We just recently spent a few days "crowd troubleshooting" Randy's rig and come to find out his adaptor was wired incorrectly which was energizing his neutral. Which means, when that break was flipped he still had power...dangerous situation if you are unsure.

[4XGLMPR]

Originally Posted by cavie

I have some questions about your panel. It looks to me that you have 2 neutral bars and 1 ground bar, Is this correct? It also looks like your neutral bars are screw down to the bottom of the panel. Is this correct? Is this a metal panel? It also looks like your ground bar is raised off the bottom and possibly on some type of insulating material. Is this correct? Pictures can be deceiving.

If all this is correct your panel is wired wrong. The neutrals (white wires) need to be insulated from the metal and the bare grounds needs to be in contact with the metal can. I don't believe this is your total problem but it does need to be fixed if it as it looks.

If the above is true it explains why the GFI works on you gen and not on shore power.

The ground wires are still touching metal they are just raised up. It's like a three-step metal can. I am not sure what is underneath the two front bars.

[wmtire]

Ok, you are pigtailing your right neutral bar over to the left neutral bar. However this is already being done with a wire on top, which I think I saw earlier. I'll check when I get back home a real computer.

This neutral is a current carrying return line so to speak. Your power comes from the bus bar.

If running a jumper wire, which is the term we need to use is fixing the problem, then most likely the problem is a connection from the top jumper wire going from the left neutral bar to the right neutral bar.

Losing the neutral connection is what causes the GFCI to trip. It's also will mess up everything else connected to that right neutral bar.

Brian stated what really needs to be done, and I would take his advice.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by 4XGLMPR

This is the exact wire and positions that I play sit when I pigtailed it. I did it 4 Super Bowl so I can watch my TV that is plugged into an outlet. Otherwise I just use the generator and then I am hot again but I did not want to run the generator for the entire Super Bowl.Attachment 163422

I had it in the number three spot on the left side in the number two on the right side

Now we are really getting somewhere. The right side bus bar has no neutral until you supply the jumper. This tells me either your panel is plastic or the bars are insulated. Those 4 breakers cannot be working. This explains the GFI tripping. I'm gonna assume that the large Wire to the left in your picture is a #8 gage and is probably the main neutral from your shore power.

[4XGLMPR]

Originally Posted by bclemens

If you are not familiar with what you are doing, I would get it in to someone to look at ASAP. We just recently spent a few days "crowd troubleshooting" Randy's rig and come to find out his adaptor was wired incorrectly which was energizing his neutral. Which means, when that break was flipped he still had power...dangerous situation if you are unsure.

I agree and I did take it to my dealer. They said they couldnt duplicate the problem and it was ready for pickup. I have explained everything to them just as I have to the group here. It is a 2018 and been in the shop more then at my house. Sorry little frustrated. Love my rig..just frustrated

[cavie]

If the panels metal and the 2 bars are screwed down you would not need a jumper.