Popping gfi at the house with my new XL hooked up - Page 3

Timecritic · 04-24-2019, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavie

Have you disconnected the transfer switch yet?

No currently at work. I will have to try when i get home. Is this transfer switch inside the surge guard?

cavie · 04-24-2019, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timecritic

No currently at work. I will have to try when i get home. Is this transfer switch inside the surge guard?

it's the spot where you shore cord meets the generator and the inside cord going to the electric panel. Shore and gen in. RV out. disconnect the shore cord.

hitchn2go · 04-24-2019, 01:29 PM

But consider all the conditions.

RV worked at dealer, but not when plugging into house. Only thing that has changed is the RV-house interface. Check the easy stuff first.

Timecritic · 04-24-2019, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hitch2go

Could your Hot lead and your Neutral lead on you house outlet plugs be wired opposite from what the RV plug is expecting? Think about it. Hot lead coming from house going to neutral side of RV panel—that would describe he symptoms you are having. Worth a check.

You could plug Rv into a friends house to test theory before tearing into RV.

So if I'm plugged into the house. Put my volt meter into the female 50 amp side of the dog bone. What should me readings be in this female plug

**bclemens** · 04-24-2019, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timecritic

There’s the reel at the back of the rv. Then there is conduit running all the way to the front into the surge guard. This is where I hear a thud when the breaker pops.Then it looks like conduit running all the way to the back of the rv. I’m guessing it goes right to the breaker in the coach bedroom. I can grab my volt meter today. The cover of the surge protector will need to come off to test anything?

Thanks for the replies

The Surge Guard IS the transfer switch. You picture from earlier shows..."Surge Guard RV Power Protection Transfer Switch" model 41260

Surge Guard is the brand name.

Timecritic · 04-24-2019, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavie

it's the spot where you shore cord meets the generator and the inside cord going to the electric panel. Shore and gen in. RV out. disconnect the shore cord.

I will have to look again. This morning it looked like it went, shore-surge-breaker box. There must be a spot where it goes through the surge then meets at the generator?

Timecritic · 04-24-2019, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bclemens

The Surge Guard IS the transfer switch. You picture from earlier shows..."Surge Guard RV Power Protection Transfer Switch" model 41260

Surge Guard is the brand name.

Ok thanks. So if Hitch2go is correct would I need to change something in the wiring in that box?

**bclemens** · 04-24-2019, 01:37 PM

Not really, I feel like Hitch2go is still leaning that there is something wrong with the adaptors or the house wiring as that is the only thing that has changed. coach at dealer, no issue. Coach at home, issue.

If you pull up that model it will show the wiring inside. Even on the cover it says "input" at one end and "output" at the other.

Timecritic · 04-24-2019, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bclemens

Not really, I feel like Hitch2go is still leaning that there is something wrong with the adaptors or the house wiring as that is the only thing that has changed. coach at dealer, no issue. Coach at home, issue.

If you pull up that model it will show the wiring inside. Even on the cover it says "input" at one end and "output" at the other.

Ok. I have not had issues with plugging any other things in at the house. A chance something came lose in the transfer switch.... Either way sounds like this needs to be opened up to try to find out where the issue is?

hitchn2go · 04-24-2019, 01:48 PM

No, Do Not change your RV wiring at all!

Just to be clear. All I am saying make sure your house outlet that you are trying to get power from is correct as a first step.

Taking your RV and plug into another power source would be a good test.

**bclemens** · 04-24-2019, 01:49 PM

But if both dog bones are bad...that wouldn't tell the story.

Timecritic · 04-24-2019, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hitch2go

No, Do Not change your RV wiring at all!

Just to be clear. All I am saying make sure your house outlet that you are trying to get power from is correct as a first step.

Taking your RV and plug into another power source would be a good test.

Where the RV is currently at, I don't have that option.

hitchn2go · 04-24-2019, 02:20 PM

AC is funny. You can have the hot and neutral backwards in an outlet and still run a lamp, drill, or weedeater, etc., and you will never know.

BUT, when you are going to extend the hot, neutral, and ground to another “panel” (ie, RV) it is critical to have the correct house wire being connected to the correct RV plug socket. You must have househot-RVhot, houseneutral-RVneutral, and houseground-RVground connections made properly.

It is a physical matching that must be correct to have the correct electrical result.

If you don’t have experience with AC, the easiest way to test this is just go plug into another power source (neighbor, campground, etc) and see if you get the same symptoms.

Start tearing into your RV before doing this simple step could be a costly mistake given the symptoms you have described in this thread.

Timecritic · 04-24-2019, 02:46 PM

So I spoke with someone at Dynamax today. They told me this coach will not run on a 15a circuit. They said it needs to be 50amp or 30amp service. Anyone with a XL have this problem? Is this why the transfer switch instantly popping my breaker? Thoughts?

**bclemens** · 04-24-2019, 02:51 PM

lol...you've been speaking to someone from Dynamax the entire time.

That is in fact the proper and official response. This page however is an un-official and in many cases un-proper page.

While it is not set up to run on anything less than 50A or 30A...I did exactly what you are trying to do at my home. Granted, I had a 50A-30A Adaptor (know good) and then a small 30A-20A (also known good...as in NOT new) adaptor. I also used a "single outlet" heavy duty 20A extensions cord and plugged that into my garage outlet that I know was 20A and I didn't have anything else connected to that circuit. I plug it in that way so I can load it up and pre-cool the fridge. In fact I have camped in my driveway to test vehicles out. In fact the 30FW I had there and ran one of the AC's on that set up as well.

The 30FW has the same transfer switch and the same dual AC and 50 Amp service.

Timecritic · 04-24-2019, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bclemens

lol...you've been speaking to someone from Dynamax the entire time.

That is in fact the proper and official response. This page however is an un-official and in many cases un-proper page.

While it is not set up to run on anything less than 50A or 30A...I did exactly what you are trying to do at my home. Granted, I had a 50A-30A Adaptor (know good) and then a small 30A-20A adaptor. I think used a "single"outlet heavy duty extensions cord and plugged that into my garage outlet that I know was 20A and I didn't have anything else connected to that circuit. I plug it in that way so I can load it up and pre-cool the fridge. In fact I have camped in my driveway to test vehicles out. In fact the 30FW I had there and ran one of the AC's on that set up as well.

I spoke with CJ over the phone and this was the information he gave me. I mentioned the info I have been getting on this forum. He said this is what the tech told him. I can't imagine a dx3 wiring is different from a XL..Assuming the other guys on here have a dx3 and can run 15 amp service on their coach.

**bclemens** · 04-24-2019, 03:04 PM

I've never done it with 15, but 20 for sure. Doubt there would be a difference.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVYBei5BZmw

this is a short video that describes just what you are trying to do. The issue is, no one in an official capacity wants to help you do this because there are SO many other things to worry about. You can in theory" damage things if not done properly. Personally I think breakers give out before most bad things happen, but if you are using an unprotected, undersized extension code it could over heat.

cavie · 04-24-2019, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timecritic

So if I'm plugged into the house. Put my volt meter into the female 50 amp side of the dog bone. What should me readings be in this female plug

The outside slots are 120 volts to the center slot. Center slot is Neutral. round pin is ground.

Since we now know you have a volt meter. I'm gonna assume you know how to use it. Do what I asked you to do in post #10.

Get a volt meter and start at the Ped and work you way the RV main breaker.
Ped being your house.

cavie · 04-24-2019, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timecritic

So I spoke with someone at Dynamax today. They told me this coach will not run on a 15a circuit. They said it needs to be 50amp or 30amp service. Anyone with a XL have this problem? Is this why the transfer switch instantly popping my breaker? Thoughts?

no. plugging into a 15 or 20 amp with a working dogbone will make no difference what so ever. it will just limit you as to what you can run at the same time once you get plugged in.

I think it's time for you to have a one on one sit down with someone who owns a Motorhome.

joeuncool · 04-24-2019, 04:36 PM

Did some quick Googling and found lots of people with this issue due to having too long of an extension cord back to the house. People may have 25-30 feet of RV cord plugged into a 100ft extension cord that is then plugged into the house. The cords over heat and trip their breakers. Even when only the fridge is running.

How long are the cords?

You may also like: