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Old 11-24-2020, 05:16 PM   #1
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Rear cap caulk joint on newer DX3

I have a 2018 DX3 and the vertical caulk joint on the rear cap has cracked in several places. I researched the cause and have concluded that some cracks in the Dicor type sealant on some roof mounted brackets have allowed moisture to migrate into the joint area. I contacted the dealer where I purchased the unit and was told that the newer units are caulked after the paint work is finished. I have a friend who is a body man with much more skill applying sealant than I do, but he would like to see a close up photo of what the factory joint looks like. I contacted Dynamax and they said they donít have a unit currently in process which they can photograph. They have said they would try to get me a picture in a few days, but if someone on the forum has a newer unit and would be willing to get a close up picture of the caulk joint and post it or e-mail it to me I would appreciate it. My e-mail is rejemote@msn.com. Thanks
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Old 11-25-2020, 09:24 AM   #2
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Do you have a picture of the crack? 9 times out of 10 it is simply the paint cracking over the caulk, not the sealant cracking. You are supposed to be able to paint over that caulk, but there is too much flex in most cases for the paint to hold.

So today, its not that we caulk after, but we will go over the joints in black sealant. That way there is no paint exposed to crack. Vertical joints are where we see it the most.

There is not a lot to the joint...its a fiberglass cap, that lays over the sidewall. Then, we take an aluminum extrusion, that lays over the fiberglass rear cap and we screw through that to hold the cap to the sidewall. That extrusion is designed to get a plastic/rubber/flexible cover (called gimp) to hide the trim and screws. Go over that seam with silver or black sealant and call it a day.
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Old 11-25-2020, 10:27 AM   #3
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Brian, thank you for your reply. Here are the pictures of the cracks, first the dicor cracks which I found when trying to figure out what might have caused the cracks where the cap joins the side wall. I can clean them up and re-seal them to prevent further issues. The one of the pictures of the vertical cracking doesn't show much separation but the other one does quite clearly. My body man friend is highly skilled and very OCD so before he caulks the vertical joints he wants to see what the factory joint looks like, up close.
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Old 11-25-2020, 10:45 AM   #4
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While production is not working (just final finish and paint getting shortages caught up). We can still take pics.

First is close up of the extrusion, then a little further and finally the screw cap before paint.

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Old 11-25-2020, 12:14 PM   #5
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Brian, again thanks for your reply. Those are good photos for reference as to how the cap is attached, but what I need to show my body man is the final caulk which is applied after the paint job. I guess the reason Colleen told me it would be a few days is that there isn't a unit which has been painted and caulked which she could get a picture of. I called a dealer about a hundred miles away to see if they had one in stock and they said no. The dealer I purchased from is about three hundred miles away and would have taken a picture but they also do not have one in stock.
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Old 11-25-2020, 12:24 PM   #6
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I'm at a loss as to why he would need that...are you saying the black we do today?

We just lay down the exact same bead that you see on your coach, we just do it in black after it has been painted. it goes on top of the paint.
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Old 11-25-2020, 01:24 PM   #7
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That almost looks like the screws have failed somehow on the side. Surely that is more movement than is normal on the rear cap!?
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Old 11-25-2020, 03:36 PM   #8
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Brian, yes I wanted a picture of the black caulk which is applied after the paint job to know how it should look. I can just tell him it should look like the caulk under the paint I guess if that's how it is, neither he or I have seen one to know what it is supposed to look like.

steadfast, I don't think there is any movement of the rear cap, but the little trim piece which covers the screws and metal strip certainly has more movement than I would expect. My suspicion is that moisture migrated behind the trim piece from the dicor cracks on the roof and then freezing temperatures we encountered caused the moisture to freeze and exert pressure on the trim piece, causing the caulking to fail.
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Old 11-27-2020, 05:24 PM   #9
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Here is what the black looks like today. Click image for larger version

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I would double check the screws as well. It looks like too much movement to me as well.
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Old 11-27-2020, 07:23 PM   #10
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Brian, that is what the body man wants to see, thank you so much. So, to check the screws, I will need to cut the caulking loose from both sides of the trim strip and remove it, correct? Is there anything under the trim strip holding it other than the caulking joint or will it just pop off once the caulking joints are cut loose?
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Old 11-30-2020, 12:01 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by BBC Cobra View Post
Brian, that is what the body man wants to see, thank you so much. So, to check the screws, I will need to cut the caulking loose from both sides of the trim strip and remove it, correct? Is there anything under the trim strip holding it other than the caulking joint or will it just pop off once the caulking joints are cut loose?
correct. As you can see in the earlier pic....that trim is on there without caulk. It is sort of a "C" shape with ridges at the ends of the C and it "sort of" grabs the extrusion.
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Old 12-07-2020, 07:36 PM   #12
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Our 2015 had this same issue on both front and rear caps at the roof line. We cut the caulk, pulled out the rubber bead seal (bullnose?). The screws were not getting a good bite into the plyood roof under layment. We drilled new holes between the existing, ussed SS screws. Replaced original seal, and re caulked. Used the touchup paint to blend it in.
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