Rear electric stabilizer problems 2019 Isata 3 RW

[acoxFL]

Before taking delivery in Dec '18 the jacks wouldn't extend or retract, so a tech removed a panel and supposedly reset a breaker and the stabilizers worked. Now they're dead again, no response or indication of power from the switches. Not a surprise, as whatever tripped the breaker wasn't diagnosed, my bad for not being more intrusive during the inspection. I never tried using them until recently so I don't know how soon after they went out, I suspect fairly soon. Now looking to troubleshoot it myself I find there's no information about the rear stabilizer or the Kib panel on the Dynamax USB thumbdrive, nor can I find any online. Crawling under the RV I see a MORryde label with a work order #, and I have the serial # stamped into the jack itself. Is there any documentation available that might help me know what specific model of the stabilizer jacks and control panel I have? I've reached out to MORryde but wanted to post here as well. Thanks in advance!

[acoxFL]

Actually I think the tech opened the Battery Control Center panel, not the Kib control panel.

[acoxFL]

MORryde responded to my inquiry and I think they properly diagnosed it: "Based on what you’re describing, it might be that the KIB switches are sticking potentially when retracting the stabilizer so the motor is still trying to retract the arms when they are all the way up. Then, the amperage spikes and trips the breaker. If that is the issue, the fix is to replace it with a switch that doesn’t stick."

The KiB switches are indeed sticky and don't look or feel right, so maybe armed with this knowledge after I reset the breaker I can avoid the issue, or I can have the KiB panel replaced under warranty. They also sent me a copy of the manual, I'll attach it in case anyone else is interested.

[bclemens]

Yes, if you reach out to your service contact, we can likely send a new version switch out under warranty. Normally that would go to a dealer, if you think you are capable of the replacement, then they can send direct.

For some reason we had the Big Foot stabilizers on the drive. Thanks for the post, we'll get that corrected on our end.

[Bill Davis]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Yes, if you reach out to your service contact, we can likely send a new version switch out under warranty. Normally that would go to a dealer, if you think you are capable of the replacement, then they can send direct.

For some reason we had the Big Foot stabilizers on the drive. Thanks for the post, we'll get that corrected on our end.

My switches stick as well.

[calif.jeff]

I have a 2018 Foerster 2401W that sticks too.On our rig,we found a resettable breaker,remove the battery control center panel on left as you go in..if you see one with the center button out,push it back in to reset...be careful,there is voltage in there...

[acoxFL]

Originally Posted by calif.jeff

I have a 2018 Foerster 2401W that sticks too.On our rig,we found a resettable breaker,remove the battery control center panel on left as you go in..if you see one with the center button out,push it back in to reset...be careful,there is voltage in there...

I look forward to trying that, thanks!

[acoxFL]

Well I’m halfway there, there was 1 resettable CB in F8 and it was tripped, resetting it brought the drivers side switch and jack to life, but the passenger side switch does nothing. I tried moving the CB from F8 down to the empty F6 below it, that disables the drivers side jack as expected but didn’t enable the passengers side. Moved it back to F8 so I have 1 jack working now! The drivers side switch is the one that sticks and it’s easy to release when the jack retracts, so that wouldn’t be a problem going forward. I thought maybe a 2nd CB is missing for the passenger side jack but I doubt that, otherwise they’d have never worked. So maybe that switch isn’t wired at the switch panel? I’m reluctant to pull the switch panel cover so maybe at this point I will let the dealer fix it. So close though! Fun stuff.

[acoxFL]

Originally Posted by acoxFL

Well I’m halfway there, there was 1 resettable CB in F8 and it was tripped, resetting it brought the drivers side switch and jack to life, but the passenger side switch does nothing. I tried moving the CB from F8 down to the empty F6 below it, that disables the drivers side jack as expected but didn’t enable the passengers side. Moved it back to F8 so I have 1 jack working now! The drivers side switch is the one that sticks and it’s easy to release when the jack retracts, so that wouldn’t be a problem going forward. I thought maybe a 2nd CB is missing for the passenger side jack but I doubt that, otherwise they’d have never worked. So maybe that switch isn’t wired at the switch panel? I’m reluctant to pull the switch panel cover so maybe at this point I will let the dealer fix it. So close though! [emoji4] Fun stuff.

The passenger side stabilizer just had a loose connection on the back of the switch, one of the yellow connectors wasn’t fully seated. Both sides work fine now.

[milkman55]

Great thread illustrating self diagnostic and successful repair. Since you put the word “stabilizer” in the title, others should be able to find this and benefit from the discussion.

On my Isata 3, the momentary switch will not stay powered in up or down mode unless you keep pressure on the switch. As soon as you release, the power is cut. If yours are still staying on when you release pressure, you should get new switches while you still have warranty left.