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Old 01-17-2021, 11:51 PM   #1
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Colorado
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Replacement door gas strut for '17 Isata 5 35DB?

We're missing the gas strut on our entry door. I found another thread looking for the same part for a DX3, but I want to know what length and force to get for the I5? Amazon link?

Previous owner said he took it off and threw it away, just put foam bumpers on the coach side to catch the flying door. I don't like his logic and would like to put it back to stock.

Thanks,
-Ken
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Old 01-18-2021, 12:09 PM   #2
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Location: Elkhart, In
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdventureAwaits View Post
We're missing the gas strut on our entry door. I found another thread looking for the same part for a DX3, but I want to know what length and force to get for the I5? Amazon link?

Previous owner said he took it off and threw it away, just put foam bumpers on the coach side to catch the flying door. I don't like his logic and would like to put it back to stock.

Thanks,
-Ken
The supplier of the door strut is Challenger door.

They sell them on their web site below is the info needed.

310315
Strut, 20" x 10 lb., w/ 6 mm Rod and Small End Fittings”

Here’s the link to their website and product listing: https://www.challengerdoor.com/product/20-strut/.
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Old 01-20-2021, 12:05 PM   #3
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Location: 8000' in CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdventureAwaits View Post
We're missing the gas strut on our entry door. I found another thread looking for the same part for a DX3, but I want to know what length and force to get for the I5? Amazon link?

Previous owner said he took it off and threw it away, just put foam bumpers on the coach side to catch the flying door. I don't like his logic and would like to put it back to stock.

Thanks,
-Ken
Having looked at the rig you purchased, I think you are missing the door strut because the ball mount on the bottom of the door tore out of the metal frame. So, the first order of business would be to fix that and then get a new strut.
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2019 Dynamax Isata 5 35DB
Audi "Nardo Grey"
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Old 01-24-2021, 10:34 PM   #4
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BLT4SPD, you are in fact correct. Ours is torn out of the door. I did see your old thread about repairing yours, but this forum doesn't allow thread necromancy, so I'll ask here: What did you end up doing to repair yours? I'm down to 4 options:
1) somehow take off the bottom of the door and insert reinforcements and reinstall ball stud.
2) squirt a large glob of JB up the hole, push in a new ball stud, and hope it grabs
3) get someone to weld a ball stud to a plate and install on bottom of door (as in other thread).
4) skip it and just put a bumper for the door and either a door-holdback or a piece of paracord as a retainer.

How'd it go for you?
-Ken
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Old 01-25-2021, 07:58 AM   #5
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Lippert (LCI) sells a self closing friction hinge kit for the door. Says it bolts right on and is $34. Good alternative to trying to repair.

https://store.lci1.com/friction-hing...hinge-kit.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdventureAwaits View Post
BLT4SPD, you are in fact correct. Ours is torn out of the door. I did see your old thread about repairing yours, but this forum doesn't allow thread necromancy, so I'll ask here: What did you end up doing to repair yours? I'm down to 4 options:
1) somehow take off the bottom of the door and insert reinforcements and reinstall ball stud.
2) squirt a large glob of JB up the hole, push in a new ball stud, and hope it grabs
3) get someone to weld a ball stud to a plate and install on bottom of door (as in other thread).
4) skip it and just put a bumper for the door and either a door-holdback or a piece of paracord as a retainer.

How'd it go for you?
-Ken
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2017 Isata 5
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Old 01-26-2021, 01:30 PM   #6
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Location: 8000' in CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdventureAwaits View Post
BLT4SPD, you are in fact correct. Ours is torn out of the door. I did see your old thread about repairing yours, but this forum doesn't allow thread necromancy, so I'll ask here: What did you end up doing to repair yours? I'm down to 4 options:
1) somehow take off the bottom of the door and insert reinforcements and reinstall ball stud.
2) squirt a large glob of JB up the hole, push in a new ball stud, and hope it grabs
3) get someone to weld a ball stud to a plate and install on bottom of door (as in other thread).
4) skip it and just put a bumper for the door and either a door-holdback or a piece of paracord as a retainer.

How'd it go for you?
-Ken
I have not fixed it yet. Other projects took priority and then winter set in and it got bumped even further down the priority list.

I’m still thinking that my repair is going to look like this:

1. use a Dremel to cut a small slit in the bottom of the trim piece (think of it like a small “ramp” sticking out below the door)
2. Cut a piece of flat aluminum stock to about 3-4” narrower than the total width of the door
3. Drill the flat piece of stock at regular intervals for pop rivets.
4. Drill the flat piece of stock for a Rivnut where the ball mount needs to be along the length of that piece of aluminum to match where it should be in the bottom of the door
5. Hold my newly fabricated piece of flat stock against the bottom trim piece on the door
6. Mark and drill holes in bottom door trim for the rivets
7. Install Rivnut in aluminum for ball mount
8. Slip flat piece of aluminum into slit cut in step #1 until rivet holes line up
9. Rivet bottom trim and new aluminum piece in place
10. Install ball mount into Rivnut installed in step #7 above

I *think* this has the greatest probability of success and long-term strength. Plus, if something goes wrong, it’s possible to reverse and repair again in the future by drilling out the rivets and take the aluminum piece back out. Plus, I think it can be done for minimal outlay of money and time…….but I say that also knowing that I already own a rivet gun (and rivets) and a Rivnut tool (and Rivnuts).

Since you are local, I am happy to be the guinea pig on this one and if it works out, I can make a second one and we can install it on your rig.
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