Slide issue, Slide not working, Isata (Dynamax)

[PeterI]

I hope BClemens reads this before my head explodes. 2018 Isata 3 with 9,087 miles has a living room slide stuck open. I have had 6 separate tech support calls with Lippert (Danielle at Dynamax sent me one email but has not called back after three inquiries on my part.)
To condense the saga—we tried every fault reset procedure there is. We did load testing with Lippert on a conference call. We replaced both batteries ($600+). We still get one green/four reds signifying a motor issue. This is after spending quality time with Nick,Kim,David and Chris from Lippert—all very helpful.
Finally found a mobile tech in Reno who immediately jumped on the ladder, pulled away weather stripping and for the next two hours couldn’t remove the first of two motors to attempt a manual retraction.
I climbed up on the ladder and saw the opening couldn’t be two inches wide. Now the tech says they need to attack this from inside the coach, remove all the trim pieces and try to remove the motor from that side AFTER THEY JACK UP THE LIVING ROOM SO IT DOESN’T FALL OUT OF THE WALL!! or they said they could use their electronic gizmo to bypass the control center to activate the motors that way.
I’m not an electrician but if the motor is dead—it’s dead no matter what electrical source is used?
I’ve invested at least 20 hours on this slide issue and no closer to a resolution. My question for Dynamax is there a way to remove the slide motors from an Isata 3 slide from outside the coach. I feel it’s now a Dynamax problem to solve as Lippert is just the component parts supplier. I read the manual and troubleshooting guide as well as the section on manual override. The diagram makes the space look like cavern rather than a slot.I am now going to pour a tall Johnnie Walker Black rocks.

[PeterI]

After I sent my previous post (and after my first cocktail) I got a call from another mobile RV repair shop who answered our one week old call. I basically repeated today’s episode.

To my unbelieving dismay, he said that he’s had to replace this type of slide motor, couldn’t get it to budge from outside the coach so he had to do it from the inside and in the process made a shambles of the trim pieces around the living room that were screwed and glued and needed to be removed to access the motor from inside the coach. He also said jacking up the slide showed some prudent safeguards!

If that’s how Dynamax designs a $150,000+ coach then they should pay if the interior is damaged in the process of removing a dead motor if that’s the only way to extract it.

[Desert Boat]

Originally Posted by PeterI

My question for Dynamax is there a way to remove the slide motors from an Isata 3 slide from outside the coach.

The Lippert site shows normal motor access is from the interior. Their sample units in the videos show the exterior portion of the C shaped piece forming the column is not cut away for motor access. Frankly, Lippert should know whether their design allows for exterior motor replacement without removing the entire column. (My suspicion is that it does not.)

If you cannot remove the motor from the exterior, you should be able to pull out the entire column, as shown in several of Lippert's repair videos. But, you need enough access on the inside to disconnect the tracks - either by removing the four screws holding the track block, or by removing the push nut and lifting the pin on the end of the track. Maybe you could get at the locknut and pin with a long plier set from the outside.

If you have to remove the interior trim and flange to attack the motor from the inside, it is very prudent to support the slide out. The interior flange helps support the slide in the extended position.

[PeterI]

Tonight, I reviewed a you tube video on motor removal from a power gear slim rack slide. It’s not an Isata 3 application but the install looks similar. In the video it looks like the slide was stuck either in or halfway so he attacked it from inside the coach. The set up at the motor looked similar however.

On the OUTSIDE of my Isata at the motor, there is(was) a rubber threshold that was in a channel and just slid out from the channel. This allowed a small (slim) peak at the motor. In the you tube video, the host removed a black metal trim piece that ran from the top to the bottom of the slide. That piece looks like it holds the channel for the rubber stripping. That metal piece has 15-18 screws (not phillips nor slotted). I’m wondering if I remove that piece (which is about 3 inches wide) we’d have clear access to the motor? I’m also wondering if there’s a risk of lifting or peeling paint from the coach.

[Desert Boat]

Originally Posted by PeterI

... In the you tube video, the host removed a black metal trim piece that ran from the top to the bottom of the slide. That piece looks like it holds the channel for the rubber stripping. That metal piece has 15-18 screws (not phillips nor slotted). I’m wondering if I remove that piece (which is about 3 inches wide) we’d have clear access to the motor? I’m also wondering if there’s a risk of lifting or peeling paint from the coach.

Look at 1:05 in this video. This was what I was discussing in my prior post. If you remove all the exterior screws, you have now disconnected the column from the RV. You still need to disconnect the motor wires and the two tracks, then the entire column comes out, including the motor. It does not appear that the black piece is separate from the column assembly.

2:29 in this video is another good look at the column. I cannot claim this is a production representative column, but you see that the C channel piece is only cut away on the interior side for motor access. You also see that the black exterior metal and rubber appear to be part of the column assembly.

[PeterI]

Thanks for the feedback. The metal strip, visible at the top right (and left) with slide extended (and stuck), from outside the coach, shows the top to bottom thick metal piece as SOLID. The only you tube videos I’ve seen where that same thick metal piece has a “c” cutout aligned with the motor is from the inside.

I understand the Jack usage now. I also grudgingly see where the motor removal is best done from inside (unless someone can educate me otherwise). My main troubling question now is how “easy” is the motor removed from inside the coach without destroying the trim pieces?

[Desert Boat]

Originally Posted by PeterI

I understand the Jack usage now. I also grudgingly see where the motor removal is best done from inside (unless someone can educate me otherwise). My main troubling question now is how “easy” is the motor removed from inside the coach without destroying the trim pieces?

If the slide were in a few inches, there would be no need to remove the trim. With the slide fully out, there is no alternative but to go through the trim then the interior room flange to reach the motor.

As with most trim work, go slow and careful. The more time spent carefully working the trim loose, the less damage to the trim. A small pry bar set will help minimize damage while working trim loose. With the softer wood of the trim, the more you spread the prying area, the less the damage. Do not pry with a screwdriver, but a wide thin metal blade, like a putty knife or the tools shown.

(I should have included a full size pry-bar to show the scale of these miniature tools. The larger one is only 7 inches long.)

[bclemens]

LCI has two styles. The old style (H-column), allows motor access from inside OR out. Our guys access the motor both ways based on which is easier at the time.

They have a new style that is more of a U-shape that only allows access from the inside, which is why we do not use it. It IS accessible from the outside or inside and we DO NOT, glue our trim.

Our guys remove and reinstall the inside trim al the time. It is a T-molding, screwed to the aluminum slide room. We then put wood trim over that and screw it from the backside of the T-molding.

Also there are two styles of motor. 1. the motor is held in with a spring. 2. it is held in with a screw. Those should be shown in their latest slim rack owners manual.

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0001459.pdf

PS. LCI is not just the "slide parts supplier". We literally get the entire column, motor, racks, etc, 100% assembled on arrival. We just place their whole system in our slide room opening and attach it to the room.

[PeterI]

BClemens—thanks for the reply. I spoke to Isaac at Lippert this AM (still crickets from Danielle). Isaac said “he believes” the slide in the Isata 3 (2018) allows motor access from the inside only. The mobile RV tech yesterday was able to remove the motor cylinder’s screw that was under a rubber flap along the outside channel. He could not access any more of the motor. The slide is stuck completely out so the motor location is right up against the coach’s exterior wall.

Like I said last night, I climbed the ladder and viewed (barely) the motor behind some framing and a 3 inch wide metal bar (black) running from the top to bottom of the slide.

I was preparing to unscrew all 14-16 screws to see if this would allow open access to the motor from outside the coach. I thought better of it and thought I’d run that idea past this forum and I got the distinct opinion that I should not mess with that piece. Therefore I have the mobile techs tomorrow who said they’d Jack up the slide, pull off the interior trim around the living room slide edge and hopefully remove the motors.

If there’s an easier and better way I haven’t been told of it by either Lippert or Dynamax (nothing from Dynamax except an email PDF entitled “installation and Service Manual Dual Planetary Gearmotor Slim Rack Slide Out System.”)

[PeterI]

I went out tonight and checked the part number on the control box. I have 2 of themas I have a side and rear slide. Both are part number 464183. I have never received any information relative to that particular part number.

Don’t know if that is pertinent to anything. I do know the coach, while titled as a 2018 Dynamax Isata 3 was delivered to us (we custom ordered it) in mid-summer 2017.

[PeterI]

Went into the coach one last time before the mobile tech team arrives a second time to attempt to remove both motors from INSIDE the coach. I examined the border trim from the top to the bottom of the left and right sides of the living room slide. At a suggestion from a forum member I went out and purchased a few different sized prying tools used for removing items such as trim pieces. They are still in the packaging.
I was pleased to hear from BClemens that the mfg does not use glue in their trim applications.
However, after staring at the trim for 20 minutes and referencing BClemens reply to me that trim pieces are screwed into inner support elements “from the back” I’m left wondering how we access behind these pieces with the slide in the full, extended open position. If the wood screw heads are behind the trims, I can’t imagine there’s any room to get behind the trim even if there was a mini 90 degree screwdriver.
Potential carnage is 2 hours away. I guess we’ll find out when the outermost trim pieces are attempted to be removed.

[PeterI]

At 10AM Mick from Safari RV Reno showed up. He pulled out yards of wiring, cabling, connectors and meters from his truck which I am thinking isn’t going to help much in finessing trim pieces off the inside of the coach without destruction while extracting two motors.

I am going to describe what he did not being an electrical engineer. Mick saw that the last tech disconnected the right rear slide motor connector (female) from the wire connector (male?) feeding from the control box.

Mick then disconnected the connection at the control box. At this point all interior power was bypassed. He took this box—which was homemade and ran cables from the control box through this contraption and from the contraption to the motor, connecting his wire line to both. He pulled out a key fob—not connected to anything, pressed it and the right side of the slide started to retract.

After I regained consciousness, I asked if this meant the motors were not fried. He said it looked like one of the motors work but he had to test the left motor. Same procedure, same result. That side started to retract.

The grand finale was connecting both control boxes to both motors through this box device, bypassing all coach wiring between the control boxes and the two motors. After a series of deliberate pressing of his mysterious key fob Mick had closed the slide that was stuck open for two weeks without removing any motors.

He indicated that his preliminary diagnosis is a wiring problem between the control box and motor but couldn’t completely eliminate motor issues without further diagnostics.

Now my wife can safely drive the RV to Safari RV Reno on 10/6 and they can figure out the problem in their shop and not our garage. I will tell Safari I don’t want anybody but Mick to touch it.

[Desert Boat]

Originally Posted by PeterI

However, after staring at the trim for 20 minutes and referencing BClemens reply to me that trim pieces are screwed into inner support elements “from the back” I’m left wondering how we access behind these pieces with the slide in the full, extended open position. If the wood screw heads are behind the trims, I can’t imagine there’s any room to get behind the trim even if there was a mini 90 degree screwdriver.

Got my coach back from mechanic today (second AC condemned and waiting for warranty replacement to arrive) and took a picture of the trim as Brian described. I am with you - do not know how this can get removed with the slide completely extended.

Glad to hear the pro was able to get it retracted.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by Desert Boat

I am with you - do not know how this can get removed with the slide completely extended.

.

You can't....which is why we have never gone to the new style column....this allows us to get motor access from outside. Much easier.

[PeterI]

Thanks to all who have commented.

It would be beneficial if Dynamax would post : SLIDE MOTOR REMOVAL CAN ONLY BE PERFORMED FROM INSIDE THE COACH in the owners manual’s troubleshooting section, especially since you have to remove the stabilizing screw at the bottom of the motor from outside the coach.

It would also be beneficial if Dynamax customer technical support could return repeated tech requests within 17 days.

So far in 9087 miles we’ve had a refrigerator fry, an A/C leak into the living room and this slide nonsense. This is our fourth RV so we’re not naive as to what RV ownership is like. If it wasn’t for BClemens or the techs at Lippert and Mick at Safari RV we’d be clueless with lack of response from the manufacturer.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by PeterI

Thanks to all who have commented.

It would be beneficial if Dynamax would post : SLIDE MOTOR REMOVAL CAN ONLY BE PERFORMED FROM INSIDE THE COACH in the owners manual’s troubleshooting section, especially since you have to remove the stabilizing screw at the bottom of the motor from outside the coach.

It would also be beneficial if Dynamax customer technical support could return repeated tech requests within 17 days.

So far in 9087 miles we’ve had a refrigerator fry, an A/C leak into the living room and this slide nonsense. This is our fourth RV so we’re not naive as to what RV ownership is like. If it wasn’t for BClemens or the techs at Lippert and Mick at Safari RV we’d be clueless with lack of response from the manufacturer.

BClemens is the manufacturer....so saying there is no response from the manufacturer is not exactly accurate.

Who did you reach out to at Dynamax?

Side note...I think my guys find it far easier to remove the slide motor from the outside. I'll have to verify that.

[schnell263]

Good morning, our saga continues. Our RV (Seabiscut) remains in the shop. I was able to access motor #2 from the outside and released the wire harness caught behind the motor and the inside wall. I manually got the room in and did not do anything else but take to the repair shop. Was scared to move it again to set stops. They were able to replace the wire harness to motor #2 and moved the slide in and out manually. Now they have been unable to set the motor stops. They have said they have talked with Lippert and Lippert can not figure out why they will not set. They were wanting to replace everything!!! The whole slide out system. I made a suggestion since we have had issues with mice maybe the wire harness to the touch pad has been damaged and that is why the stops can not be set. They have ordered a replacement harness last week thought it would be in by last friday but so far not arrived to date. I have 2 questions: If this does fix the issue can the touch pad be mounted closer to the controller so they do not have to take the coach apart to mount on the wall on the other side of the coach?
Second if it does not fix issue How do I find a Lippert trained technician to set the stops. I have emailed Lippert with no reply.
Thanks again for all the input!!
Jan owner of Seabiscut

[schnell263]

After 3 week wait for new wire harness from touchpad to controller still unable to set stops. Now the repair shop wants to try to put a toggle switch instead of the originally touch pad and a new controller to go with the toggle switch. I just read that older models can not use this. Also saw something about a motor having a sync sensor not functioning and not able to set stops? Povertyflatts posted this. I feel I need to bring my Dynamax 2016 Isata 3 home and find a lippert approved shop. Does Dynamax have lists for lippert trained people?
Thanks for your response. Frustrated Rv owner.

[Boblind]

I have a 2022 Isata 5 30FW Explorer only one motor on the rear slide is working. This has happened before and with the proper procedure (as per the video) I reset the stops and all was well. Today the reset procedure did not work and the #2 motor only clicks when I attempt to reset. Any suggestions?

[schnell263]

Sorry dont have any suggestions as we brought ours home and it is currently in another shop and they have told us motor # 2 is not working so we are replacing when parts arrive.