Slide issue, Slide not working, Isata (Dynamax)

[first rv]

The last of my VIN is 764258. Thanks.

[bclemens]

OK, they looked that up and are just adding "in-board" rollers to the floor. That helps support the slide out so that it does not "tip down" too far which makes it harder to go back out. So not the same thing and you will not need the roller skids.

[first rv]

Thanks Brian.

[NearDenver]

Originally Posted by bclemens

I already posted it on its own thread....but because this is a sticky, I guess it would be a good idea to post here as well.

https://www.facebook.com/DynamaxMoto...1651766276256/

When I reset my stops, one side was a bit tighter to the coach than the other. Could you add a picture showing how much the gasket should be squeezed to make the best fit?

[bclemens]

If it is compressing the bulb seal then it is doing what it should. By design, they normally hang out about 1/2" or so.

[jacksonHR]

Thank you for this info. I recently had an issue with the main slide on Isata 5 36DS not coming in evenly and dealer re programmed it. Have not had another issue electrically, however, I have noticed that the slide rails on both slides are nice and snug and straight except the one on the rear lower of the main slide. It is bowed out and when the slide comes in, it is bowed out still. Is this normal and should I be concerned? It doesn't seem logical that one of the rails is bowed out. It almost looks like it is too long.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by jacksonHR

Thank you for this info. I recently had an issue with the main slide on Isata 5 36DS not coming in evenly and dealer re programmed it. Have not had another issue electrically, however, I have noticed that the slide rails on both slides are nice and snug and straight except the one on the rear lower of the main slide. It is bowed out and when the slide comes in, it is bowed out still. Is this normal and should I be concerned? It doesn't seem logical that one of the rails is bowed out. It almost looks like it is too long.

It is common and nothing to be worried about. To make that rail bow, it could be as little as a 1/4" variance. In fact, most of the time all of them bow (either in or out) as pressure is exerted on the slide room. Also,when you say they are not bowing...sometimes it bows "IN" which of course it hits the slide wall and is not as obvious as when the rail bows "OUT"

[buffwso]

All-
Motor number two on my Isata 35DB is only humming when manually operated. It will VERY slowly/weakly run if there are folks on the outside helping to push the slide in. So, I'm pretty sure I have a bad motor (Lippert agreed). When I called Dynamax on Friday, the lady at technical support told me to access the motor via inside and that I need to take off the facia. Well, tore off the wood facia and no access.

So, I'm thinking it needs to be accessed from the outside. Early on in this thread someone hinted at a video being done on how to access the slide motors but I can't seem to find it. Also, it looks like I need a special driver/bit to pull off outside bulb seal?? Any help?

Thanks,
Todd

[bclemens]

I think if you search LCI or lippert slim rack or schwintec there are a couple of videos they do. There are two styles, one with a spring clip and one with a set screw to hold the motor in place.

[buffwso]

BClemens-
It is the spring clip style. I've found the LCI videos but am looking for specific information on how Dynamax accesses those motors. Mainly, do you get at them from the outside or inside? The technical support lady at Dynamax is convinced that the motor is accessed via the inside versus the outside. There in lies the biggest challenge---actually getting to the motors without destroying trim and seals unnecessarily. I think a fair amount of material and seals must be removed before the motor is exposed. Thanks for the reply.

Todd

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by buffwso

BClemens-
It is the spring clip style. I've found the LCI videos but am looking for specific information on how Dynamax accesses those motors. Mainly, do you get at them from the outside or inside? The technical support lady at Dynamax is convinced that the motor is accessed via the inside versus the outside. There in lies the biggest challenge---actually getting to the motors without destroying trim and seals unnecessarily. I think a fair amount of material and seals must be removed before the motor is exposed. Thanks for the reply.

Todd

Well, I think we do access them from the inside. But pulling the fascia is normally not all that beneficial, in that we have metal T-rail, behind the wood fascia. They try to get the slide in enough to reach behind.

I have asked my service manager to get video of Greg taking the motor out. maybe not a full on troubleshooting video, but at least a quick shot of how we do it. Hope to get that soon.

[buffwso]

Brian-
That would be huge. Even a picture would be helpful. Must take some finagling to get behind the slide. Yes, I ran into the metal t-rail immediately. May want to get this info to tech support also.

I'll look forward to the information.

Do these motors fail often? This is a fairly new coach. Am wondering if I need to roll around with a spare motor on-hand.

Thanks,
Todd

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by buffwso

Brian-
That would be huge. Even a picture would be helpful. Must take some finagling to get behind the slide. Yes, I ran into the metal t-rail immediately. May want to get this info to tech support also.

I'll look forward to the information.

Do these motors fail often? This is a fairly new coach. Am wondering if I need to roll around with a spare motor on-hand.

Thanks,
Todd

I don't see them fail all that often, but I still think 90% of the issues are when they are run on low voltage. Everything struggles then. After putting out our video on properly operating the slides, we have seen a dramatic decrease in the number of issues.

Solar could also be helping.

[ExFireFMFlorida]

Originally Posted by Mikemdd

While on this topic, I would like to ask again that someone take a picture/pictures of the slide motors and setup while on the manufacturing floor that shows the actual location and setup of the slide mechanisms before being covered up, in case there is a need to manually retract the slide. There are lots of conflicting stories of how to access the motors...some say from the inside, some say from the outside, etc. etc. Interested in the Isata 3. Thanks

I will say, I've had self experience with replacing my own motor already, plus even more recently removing entire slide on my Isata3 FW. You could remove motor from either inside or outside, however my choice is from inside, and here's why. If you note the trim on the outside is painted over after its installed, and logic tells me, removing outside trim, has potential to peel paint, and also the water seal (silicone caulk). There is another consideration. If a motor does, and slide is in the full out, then only access is from outside. On the other hand, if slide is in the full IN position, then only access from inside is posible. Either position requires removing about 17-20 screws on the trim, in order to gain access to motor. Expect at least 1 or 2 of the screws to break, cause they are aluminum.

[DavidMort]

I probably have a bad motor on the front of the main slide. I can move the slide in manual mode so I have a choice on how to access. Inside on the five in the front you cannot access all the screws that hold the slide mechanism in because of the cab and the book case behind the seat. I would think you would have to remove the wide metal and wood flange surround to access.

[ExFireFMFlorida]

Originally Posted by DavidMort

I probably have a bad motor on the front of the main slide. I can move the slide in manual mode so I have a choice on how to access. Inside on the five in the front you cannot access all the screws that hold the slide mechanism in because of the cab and the book case behind the seat. I would think you would have to remove the wide metal and wood flange surround to access.

David I'm not exactly familiar with your particular floor plan , you state it's an isata35db, I tried looking on Dynamaxs website, but cannot find one with those numbers, perhaps being a few years old, they named it different then. Either way, with Ali in in position, or at least partially in, you should be able to access the trim which covers motor area. Worst case scenario, you may have to remove the vertical section of the T aluminum support holding the trim you already removed, if there is no room to access all screws on motor cover. Yes you are correct, factory uses the "Square type head screws" which are also Phillip. All in all, is not a quick access to motor. My motor failed just after my 2 year warranty expired by 5 Months .

[bclemens]

Best way to access the motors is with the slide all the way out...just easier to get into.

[Whalenss]

David,
I had to access the same panel. I did it with the slide out in the out position as BC said. Used drill/driver with long extension. It was a stretch but could reach. The motor design in mine has a hold down spring plus a screw on the outside that had to be removed.

What is "manual mode" to bring the slide out in?

Good luck.

Pat

Originally Posted by DavidMort

I probably have a bad motor on the front of the main slide. I can move the slide in manual mode so I have a choice on how to access. Inside on the five in the front you cannot access all the screws that hold the slide mechanism in because of the cab and the book case behind the seat. I would think you would have to remove the wide metal and wood flange surround to access.

[DavidMort]

Originally Posted by Whalenss

David,


What is "manual mode" to bring the slide out in?

Good luck.

Pat

Manual Mode is when you pull the control pad and use the motor buttons on the back as if your were resetting the stops. When you use these buttons the motors are operating in DC mode. Have to do as if you were going to reset the stops. If slides are in you hit button to set in position stop then use the motor controls to move to out position and hit button to set out stop. To bring in do the stop reset again, use motors to bring slide in.

Note: my bad motor symptom is that after I reset the stops and try to bring the slide in only the rear motor works. Initially swapped out the controller with a new one --- same problem. May be motor, may be bad wire from controller to motor. I will do some wire swaps again to check, will also check voltage at the controller under load again to make sure not a voltage issue. One of the recommended checks is to swap motors. I have to call them again as they were telling me to check signals coming from the controller to the motor --something I was not able to do on the road.

Using this mode to move the slide got us through a couple of stops and back from FL in the spring.

[bclemens]

FYI, We haven't had to replace any motors for quite some time, but Greg said he will video the next one we get. Whenever that is.