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10-13-2018, 11:07 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 48
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Slide out or leveling jacks first?
I have an “early” 2019 Isata 3 FW (full wall slide) with cab-over bunk and Equalizer Systems auto-levelers. I have noted that when parked on a level pad, the coach sits in slightly nose-down attitude, I assume because of the heavy engine weight up front and the cab-over enclosure. I have searched the electronic manual and this forum and talked with the service mgr. where I bought it and have gotten conflicting advice about whether it is OK to put out and use the slide out without the auto-leveling jacks down. I have also noticed that no matter how many times I have reset the “null level” by following the system instructions, it just doesn’t seem to find the exact level without some manual adjustment. Hoping maybe bclemens can give me the factory recommendations. Thank you.
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10-13-2018, 11:18 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Port Richey Florida
Posts: 640
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Jacks first , always.
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10-13-2018, 11:24 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: California
Posts: 18
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I have a 36 foot class A motorhome and I was always told Jacks down first then slides out. When leaving, slides in first jacks up last. I was told this helps keep the stress on the frame to a minimum. This was also in my motorhome user manual. (2004 Forest River Georgetown 359t).
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10-14-2018, 08:30 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Smoky Mountains
Posts: 553
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Level first, then extend the slide.
It kind of makes sense, you want the slide drive mechanism level when it's working. That's how I always thought of it
Regarding your auto levelers, you might get in touch with a tech at Equalizer while you are in the MH and see if they can walk you through a fix.
__________________
Dave & Julie - Motorhomeless for a while!
SOLD 2018 Isata-3 24FW - Invisibrake/Roadmaster Falcon All-Terrain Tow Bar/2019 Wrangler Sport S 2.0 Turbo
SOLD 2015 Tiffin Allegro 36LA/2014 Wrangler Sahara Unlimited
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10-14-2018, 12:01 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 968
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We have reset our null a couple times, coach still always seems to raise the front too much. We just lower it manually. 2 sec, no big deal. And always level first before slides out. Also equalizer says air up before jacks up when leaving. So on departure-slides in, air up-jacks up.
When we first got coach we would raise the jacks before airing up, coach would always move, jacks would drag slightly. No more.
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Kevin & Jean
2018 DX3 37BH
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10-14-2018, 02:34 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: NE Wyoming
Posts: 165
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Slides first, then jacks. And I have checked level on my refrigerator as that needs to be level ± to operate properly. My unit doesn't look level on the outside either.
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10-14-2018, 04:53 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Southern AZ
Posts: 168
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I always level first then full-slide out. Have an Isata 3 FWM and have the auto-leveling jacks and love them (auto and manual). Agree on the look after all is done though as it does seem like it tilts just slightly. In my case a bit to the right when in front of the unit. Levels tell a different story so things fine. I would want things level before putting stress on the slide out mechanism.
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10-14-2018, 05:14 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 194
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I always level the RV first then extend the slides, and later retract the slides first & then lower the RV. When we first got the DX3 I used the auto leveling feature, but it always went thru various herky jerky motions & never seemed to be level when it finished. Since then I've been manually leveling the RV and it's quick & easy. I mounted a couple of bubble levels on the dash so I can see exactly what is going on & this has worked much better than the auto level feature. A couple of times I've placed a level on the floor to double check the dash levels, & they're always been right on the money.
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10-14-2018, 06:45 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 852
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Level first, set the stabilizers on the side where your heaviest slides are, then extend your slides. After the slides are out, check your level once again, then drop the remaining stabilizers. Recheck again after 48 hours.
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10-14-2018, 08:03 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 60
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Many RV's with air suspension say slides first then level, my Newmar with full wall slide is one, Monaco is a another. Don't ask here, ask the factory.
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10-15-2018, 09:08 AM
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#11
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Navy Junior
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 42
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Mine is a full side slide like OP, so.....level first, slide out, manually re-level (since slide is a huge beast) (also sets u up for fully supported retract). Then when leaving; slide in, feet up.
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10-15-2018, 09:21 AM
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#12
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 18,979
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I think I mentioned somewhere else, the "auto Level" will get it close, but ultimately there is a margin for error. I don't recall the exact number but it equates to over an inch, to inches over 40'
Just to reiterate what others have said...level first, then slides. Otherwise you are putting undue stress on the slides (potentially).
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10-15-2018, 03:37 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: austinburg ohio
Posts: 821
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wow seems everyone levels first then then slides I thought that first as at one time we had a popup but this past weekend at a frog rally a forest river tech told everyone that's the old rule slides first and then level because if you have different sizes of slides as they are moved out it will change the balance same as with the new refrigerators you don't have to be that level that old rule beside think about as you run down the road and they are on they are not level unless you have a trailer get as close to level then slides out then jacks down.
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10-15-2018, 03:55 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 420
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Let's see if I have this right. I level the coach on hydraulic jacks. Should be stable. Now I move out the slide and all of a sudden it isn't stable, tips the coach compressing the non compressable hyd fluid. Compared to the coach's weight, how heavy is the slide. Also, with opposing slides, may balance out.
I have leveled, re leveled and even moved other RVs without issue but prefer level first method.
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10-15-2018, 04:02 PM
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#15
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 18,979
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The issue is not so much being level....as making sure the slides (large moving parts) are level when operating. If the coach is low, opposite the slide, the slide out is working that much a harder to operate UP HILL. If you level first, you are reducing the strain on the slide out and once the slide goes out...then maybe a minor adjustment is needed, but I doubt it. Even then, those hydraulic jacks are designed to move much more weight than the electric slide motor.
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10-15-2018, 04:12 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: austinburg ohio
Posts: 821
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that little tiny motor has enough power to blow the slide right off the couch or trailer don't need to worry about binding
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10-15-2018, 04:21 PM
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#17
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 18,979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bareftn
that little tiny motor has enough power to blow the slide right off the couch or trailer don't need to worry about binding
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Not sure what motor you are referring to, but this is a Dynamax sub-forum, so the original question would be referring to an small electrical in-wall motor.
We just recently had a case that puts things into a practical perspective. The complaint was that there was a slide that was binding, not going all the way out. When we got it here, it went in and out no problems whatsoever, so we didn't really see the issue. However, in looking at the coach, it was not level it was low on the slide side. So we leveled the coach and it started to struggle. We ran the slide side about 1" high and tried again....slide stopped short. It was in that scenario, we were able to re-create the issue, diagnose the problem and correct it.
So coming directly from the manufacturer...level the coach first, then operate the slides. That's the way it is designed to work.
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10-15-2018, 04:37 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: austinburg ohio
Posts: 821
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what I posted is what I was told by a factory rep that is his specialty is electrical motors and other issues
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10-15-2018, 04:50 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Smoky Mountains
Posts: 553
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I'm guessing that the GM of the Dynamax Division, particularly this GM has a better answer than the tech working in the Cherokee factory
__________________
Dave & Julie - Motorhomeless for a while!
SOLD 2018 Isata-3 24FW - Invisibrake/Roadmaster Falcon All-Terrain Tow Bar/2019 Wrangler Sport S 2.0 Turbo
SOLD 2015 Tiffin Allegro 36LA/2014 Wrangler Sahara Unlimited
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10-15-2018, 06:07 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 48
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Well, thanks to all for your replies, esp. to Mr. Clemens for the final word. Question answered[emoji106]
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