Starlink Cable Through Bottom Seal of Compartment?

[ncrowley]

I am thinking of placing the Starlink router in the front right compartment of my 2022 Isata 5 since there is power there. Is there any problem running the cable though the bottom of the compartment door? Will that compress the seal so water will come in?

[Camarochevy1970]

I was thinking about the same, but worried about the compartment trapping heat and over heating their router

[dalford]

Originally Posted by Camarochevy1970

I was thinking about the same, but worried about the compartment trapping heat and over heating their router

I don’t think you need to worry about heat. I put mine in the basement of my 5th wheel. Here are the specs..

STARLINK WIFI ROUTER

Wi-Fi Technology IEEE 802.11a/b/g/n/ac standards
Generation Wi-Fi 5
Radio Dual Band - 3 x 3 MIMO
Security WPA2
Environmental Rating IP54, configured for indoor use
Coverage Up to 185m² (2000sqft)
Operating Temperature -30°C to 50°C (-22°F to 122°F)

[Judge64]

Over time, you will breakdown the cable if you close the door on it enough. You will put an indentation in the seal but there is shielding in addition to the wiring inside the Dish cable. If you open and close the door enough of times, you are bound to weaken the cable and possible create connectivity and / or performance issues.

I have been using Starlink for over two years. On my Super C I ran the cable through the roof and mounted it on the ladder with a FlagPole Buddy Mount and I had enough cable left to move the Dish around the coach if the ladder mount did not have a clear line of sight.

I am currently installing it on my Isata 3 Freedom Edition. I am using this waterproof connector.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BMFBJTTG...roduct_details

[AZFoxes]

Can you run it through an access panel on the side of the compartment? Our Europa had an access panel already but they are easy to install. I 3D printed a cable pass through to fill the hole when running the cable through it to keep critters out. Otherwise the screw in plug is there.

Originally Posted by ncrowley

I am thinking of placing the Starlink router in the front right compartment of my 2022 Isata 5 since there is power there. Is there any problem running the cable though the bottom of the compartment door? Will that compress the seal so water will come in?

[Judge64]

I just finished mounting the Dish connector for my Isata 3 Freedom Edition that I posted in my earlier post. I am pretty pleased how it turned out.

I just upgraded my Starlink Gen 2 hardware to the Gen 3 hardware and it is nice they have gone back to an RJ-45 connector w/ CAT6 cable.

There are a few companies now making ethernet adapter for the Gen 2 hardware so you can use regular CAT6 cable.

https://www.amazon.com/STARGEAR-Star...s%2C105&sr=8-6

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by ncrowley

I am thinking of placing the Starlink router in the front right compartment of my 2022 Isata 5 since there is power there. Is there any problem running the cable though the bottom of the compartment door? Will that compress the seal so water will come in?

An option to consider. I used a simple cable port to provide access for my Starlink cable. This is designed to be weather-proof and gentle on the cable. You could even add the port to a hatch door...or the wall around the hatch. I used a 4" hole saw to cut the opening, and then it took a bit of caulk and some screws to install it.

[Dp26]

I use a hatch in the inside wall of a bin. Leaving it open when in use. I suspect a closed small bin will get to or be over the temp max on a hot day.

For the mini, no worry as the router is in the antenna housing (which gets noticeably warm).

For me, the port is to get to my inverter when running off batts. With the mini I will likely use a portable battery and direct 12v to save the inverter power loss.

[ncrowley]

It is the Gen 3 system. Can I use the existing cable connection that is built in for cable TV?

[Judge64]

Originally Posted by ncrowley

It is the Gen 3 system. Can I use the existing cable connection that is built in for cable TV?

No.... the TV Cable is coax and the Starlink Gen 3 is CAT6 with an RJ-45 connector.

I thought about removing the cable and satellite connection and replacing it with the RJ-45 I installed for plugging in the Dish..... but when I found relatively easy place to add it I decided to keep the Cable connection.

[steadfast]

At least on the M2 chassis, the door seals are large and soft so you can run a cable through the doors, which I did. No problems.

[timfromma]

If you want to do this, I suggest buying a short extension cable that is long enough to reach from your router and through the door then plug your main cable into this. This way, all you have to do is replace the short cable if it wears out instead of the main. Maybe even carry a spare extension cable in case of a failure while traveling.

[vlamgat]

Originally Posted by Judge64

No.... the TV Cable is coax and the Starlink Gen 3 is CAT6 with an RJ-45 connector.

I thought about removing the cable and satellite connection and replacing it with the RJ-45 I installed for plugging in the Dish..... but when I found relatively easy place to add it I decided to keep the Cable connection.

And JIC it gets asked..I tried the coax to ethernet conversion boxes sold by Amazon and at least 2 did not work with Starlink. The idea was to use ethernet to interface with the satellite or cable coax links in the wet bay to connect to a cable distribution box in the media cabinet over coax. Just got snow.

[XenoRev]

I ran my cable in through the slide out seal of my Salem 27DBK. If you have any slides, and you DON'T have a Swintek slide mechanism, extend the slide part way, push the cable out from the inside. Then lower the cable to the lowest point, observing while someone else extends the slide to the full extension. Worked well for me.

[RobbieH]

Originally Posted by XenoRev

and you DON'T have a Swintek slide mechanism

Well said!

[gremlin]

Beware that starlink runs some Power over ethernet and so make sure if you're using a pigtail like that one shown it's capable of passing the amperage necessary to power the dish

[Judge64]

Originally Posted by gremlin

Beware that starlink runs some Power over ethernet and so make sure if you're using a pigtail like that one shown it's capable of passing the amperage necessary to power the dish

The ones I ordered work just fine along with a good quality CAT 6 or CAT8 cable.

[ncrowley]

I was concerned about the heat in the compartment, so this is what I did.

I drilled a hole in the floor near the on demand water heater into the compartment. I used this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CWGZHBNJ...t_details&th=1

To route the following cable extension through the hole:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BMFBJTTG...roduct_details

The hole went into the front compartment. The end hangs from the top of the compartment. I connect the cable that came with the antenna to this connector and it runs out a gap in the bottom middle of the compartment - there is no pressure on the cable.

The router and power supply are in an open top plastic box under the sink. the box has vents. I found a box of the perfect size at the container store. The box keeps the router and the power supply safe in transit.

The attachment has a picture of the plastic box under the sink.

I ordered this bag to hold the dish and the cable while traveling. I have not received it yet:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BKTCCP5H...t_details&th=1

Things are working fine so far.

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by ncrowley

<<SNIP>>

I ordered this bag to hold the dish and the cable while traveling. I have not received it yet:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BKTCCP5H...t_details&th=1

Things are working fine so far.

Love that Gig bag for the dishy. I'm still using its packing box to hold everything.

I don't know what dishy you have. I have the Gen 3. It has a hoop-shaped kickstand, and I've been using a small sandbag through the hoop to keep the dishy planted where I put it...often on the roof of my rig.

Thanks for sharing the gig bag idea. I may get tired of messing with my box. For now, I've installed a 500 watt pure sine wave inverter on the wall in the top bunk area, and my power supply and router live on top of the box when setup...for air flow (THEY GET PRETTY WARM!!). I'd probably replace the box with something like a plastic cutting board to keep the electronics from sinking into the blankets and getting that much hotter.

[ncrowley]

I have a gen 3.