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Old 07-10-2020, 04:54 PM   #1
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Storage door latches

Has anyone had the plastic latches on the storage compartment doors break? I have a 2012 dynaquest 340. Iíve had two handles break, figured that out now I have two broken latches. The latches are held in place with rivets so might be complicated to replace. Anyway if someone has dealt with this please let me know how you resolved the issue.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-10-2020, 07:09 PM   #2
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Picture? We might be able to find someone that has worked on those before.
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Old 07-11-2020, 09:30 AM   #3
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I’ll take some pictures and post.
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Old 07-16-2020, 12:46 PM   #4
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Hereís some pictures
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Old 07-16-2020, 12:50 PM   #5
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Hereís some pictures
Ah, those are Wiley Manufacturing doors. We no longer use them and they are mad about that. They won't sell direct when we send people to them and want us to place minimum orders. So we can get them, but we have to order min qty's. Or dollar amount.
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Old 07-16-2020, 12:57 PM   #6
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So any suggestions on what I can do? I would buy more than 2 as Iím sure more will break as time goes on. Also do you know the procedure for replacing? The back of the door is sealed.
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Old 07-16-2020, 01:30 PM   #7
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Post a picture of the outside of the door and also of one of the latches not broken. I doubt Wiley makes their own latches, probably an OEM part. I would drill out the two rivets on one of the latches, pull it and see if there is a mfg stamp on the mechanism. Donít be concerned with rivets, they are easier than screws in many ways. Home Depot or Loweís sell a cheap rivet gun set with many sizes of rivets.
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Old 07-16-2020, 01:39 PM   #8
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^^what Joel said^^.

I actually don't know, but I fired off the thread to Greg...he's been pretty busy but when he has a chance he'll chime in.
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Old 07-16-2020, 01:51 PM   #9
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OK, so I am camping in the Isata 5 in 100+ temps and it’s too hot to go outside. Let’s see if we can solve your issue.

The plates on the back at top and bottom are the pivot points for the latches that move when the center latch is pulled. If you drill those rivets, you should be able to access the horizontal bar that basically is the latch. Appears to have just broken off due to wear. Be careful when drilling the rivets to just go deep enough to dislodge the rivet and not touch the front face of the door.

I have never seen this style of latch with double strike plates and one handle, but you may find a mfg stamp if you remove the cover plates. Here is a cheap rivet gun to put them back after you remove.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-R...6555/207014968

Alternatively, if you still have the metal pieces that broke, you could get them spot welded at a local welding shop and reinstall. They probably have a pivot point behind the two upper and lower covers.
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Old 07-16-2020, 01:54 PM   #10
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"we're gonna need a bigger boat". The diameter of that rivet looks huge. Maybe its the zoom level...
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Old 07-16-2020, 02:00 PM   #11
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Measure across the top of the rivet, probably a 3/16Ē. They sell stainless rivets at Home Depot that are 3/16Ē.

Another option is just find a welding shop and see if they can fix your latches. They will have the right size rivets. Some would have the capability of fabricating a new latch rod if you donít find who manufactured the entire assembly.
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Old 07-16-2020, 02:48 PM   #12
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Measure across the top of the rivet, probably a 3/16Ē. They sell stainless rivets at Home Depot that are 3/16Ē.

Another option is just find a welding shop and see if they can fix your latches. They will have the right size rivets. Some would have the capability of fabricating a new latch rod if you donít find who manufactured the entire assembly.
If you ever drive by the plant, you get two free nights at the campground. All owners get that. But if you want...you can walk out into the plant, go ahead and pick up some tools...as long as you do that, you can keep staying

win-win
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Old 07-16-2020, 03:07 PM   #13
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Thanks for the feedback, Iíll drill out one of the broken latches and see what I got. The handle uses cables to pull the latches in to release. Thanks again, Iíll post when I figure something out.
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Old 07-18-2020, 08:27 AM   #14
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It wasn't identical but I was able to make this guy work. Had to adjust the length of the linkage

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PLW2DK...p_mob_ap_share

I just went back in with button headed self tappers with no issue. Though I do have a rivet gun on board nowadays
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Old 07-18-2020, 09:01 AM   #15
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In one of the photos it looks like TriMark handles so maybe ...

TriMark

Other TriMark Latches
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Old 10-28-2020, 08:25 PM   #16
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I finally got around to replacing the latches. The ones referenced worked perfectly. The stainless steel reverts were a pain to remove but doable. Thanks for the help!
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Old 10-28-2020, 09:34 PM   #17
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Driving out the mandrel in the center of the rivet with a small punch, will make drilling far easier. From a guy who built an aluminum airplane, with 25,000 rivets.
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Old 10-29-2020, 05:43 AM   #18
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Driving out the mandrel in the center of the rivet with a small punch, will make drilling far easier. From a guy who built an aluminum airplane, with 25,000 rivets.
Do you typically drive out the mandrel with a drill, or use a punch. My efforts to use a punch have usually ended in tears because the assembly is not robust enough to take the blows!
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Old 10-29-2020, 01:13 PM   #19
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Most of the 3/16 ss rivets, that needed to be removed, were on plate aluminum, so I never had a problem driving out with a punch, the same size as mandrel. Here is a copy of a method used in the industry, that I never used, different type of rivet I suspect.
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