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Old 08-12-2019, 09:47 AM   #1
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Upgrade A/C on 2018 DX3

I know there are lots of threads on A/C's. I have read them, but didn't find anything on upgrades. Knock on wood, I don't have the issues with water in the coach.

Has anyone upgraded the A/C unit(s) on a DX3? I have a 2018 with the Atwood models. I would like more cooling power! I THINK I read the back only has a 13.5k model, I assume that could go to 15k? Are there more powerful/more effective/high CFM models that could go in the front?

I imagine it would be easier to stay with Atwood since the controller is already wired in AND its already hooked up to the auto-start generator. But if its feasible to swap that out to make everything work better, I'm open to it.

Thanks!
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Old 08-12-2019, 05:10 PM   #2
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Ugh, I did a test today. It was 67* inside this morning. Left it set on 70*. Air temperature is 93*. By 5pm it was up to 82* despite being on all day.

I am out of warranty. If I take it into getting it repaired, I guess I should ask about this divider I saw referenced as potentially a problem. Anything else specifically?

Do others A/C's keep the coach cool in the mid-90s or is it definitely a problem?
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Old 08-12-2019, 05:26 PM   #3
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You should not have an issue...the Atwood IS the best cooling AC out there (15k is rated at 18k....but not sure how they come up with all of that). I would...
#1 check the divider baffle,
#2 make sure the filters are clean
#3 make sure an air vent is not blowing directly on one of the sensors.

You have both AC's running?
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Old 08-12-2019, 05:39 PM   #4
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You should not have an issue...the Atwood IS the best cooling AC out there (15k is rated at 18k....but not sure how they come up with all of that). I would...
#1 check the divider baffle,
#2 make sure the filters are clean
#3 make sure an air vent is not blowing directly on one of the sensors.

You have both AC's running?
Thanks Brian. Yes, I have both A/C's running.

1) I just found a schematic. I will go check the baffle now.
2) I cleaned them thoroughly last night before the test.
3) I have 2018 37TS. Do you happen to know where the sensors are?
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Old 08-12-2019, 05:48 PM   #5
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3. not really. The senors ARE the thermostat unless the thermostat is behind a door and then it will be a small dome looking thing on the wall.
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Old 08-12-2019, 06:52 PM   #6
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the thermister for the cold air is in the return duct, it looks at the temperature

in the room going up the return.

The cold air from the unit is right next to the return and it has a baffle that

seperates the ducts. Take the grille cover off and you then can see

if the baffle is there, there was a thread on here a while back, i will see if

I can find it or some pictures.
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Old 08-12-2019, 08:01 PM   #7
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Here it is, go to post #7 of this thread.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...at-136854.html
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Old 08-12-2019, 08:13 PM   #8
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Here it is, go to post #7 of this thread.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...at-136854.html

Yep, that was it. The baffle on both A/cís was pushed out of place by a significant amount. Immediately cooler after adjusting it. Iím going to leave it on during the day tomorrow to see how it does and pick up some tape on the way home to lock it in place.

That was amazing and literally made my day. The previous owner mentioned it had never worked right, which is why I started thinking about a replacement. Amazing to get it fixed 10 minutes.

THANK YOU ALL!!
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Old 08-12-2019, 08:22 PM   #9
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I tried to get dynamax to install a third a/c in my XL and they insured me that it would be efficient in cooling capacity. I was in the Florida keys a couple of weeks ago and the front unit wouldn’t cool below 85 degrees. The designer should experience a hot day in a box , just saying
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Old 08-12-2019, 08:34 PM   #10
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Here is another thread discussing this issue

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ct-140681.html
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Old 08-12-2019, 09:25 PM   #11
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Can somebody point me to a thread on what to look for on baffles? My 19 will not keep the front cool. Not even close. The bedroom works great.
Thanks in advance
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Old 08-12-2019, 10:28 PM   #12
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Remove the filters and lookin to see if the divider board that separates the supply and return air in the plenum is tilted if it is straighten it up and tape in place where it want tilt again. If itís tilted where the supply can flow into the return this fix should help.
Mine is correct and it want cool adequate whenever the outside temp is above 90 degrees.
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Old 08-12-2019, 11:22 PM   #13
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Remove the filters and lookin to see if the divider board that separates the supply and return air in the plenum is tilted if it is straighten it up and tape in place where it want tilt again. If itís tilted where the supply can flow into the return this fix should help.
Mine is correct and it want cool adequate whenever the outside temp is above 90 degrees.
Thank you
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Old 08-13-2019, 05:54 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by joet19711 View Post
Here it is, go to post #7 of this thread.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...at-136854.html
It looks like you taped the baffle on all four sides. I assume its best to stop any air movement at all between them? Any reason not to fully tape it (other than I guess it makes it harder to remove down the line)?
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Old 08-13-2019, 06:21 AM   #15
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It looks like you taped the baffle on all four sides. I assume its best to stop any air movement at all between them? Any reason not to fully tape it (other than I guess it makes it harder to remove down the line)?
Yes, I taped the baffle in the opening all the way around, I used foil tape

It made an instant fix for cooling the coach. I did not see any reason to

fully tape the whole baffle, but I guess it would not hurt anything if you did.

I did mine in like June of 2017 and it is still in place today.
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Old 08-13-2019, 07:23 AM   #16
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Yes, I taped the baffle in the opening all the way around, I used foil tape

It made an instant fix for cooling the coach. I did not see any reason to

fully tape the whole baffle, but I guess it would not hurt anything if you did.

I did mine in like June of 2017 and it is still in place today.
Thanks. I think I will mimic yours. Need to swing by Lowe's tonight and get some tape....
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Old 08-13-2019, 02:46 PM   #17
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I wonder if Dynamax will send a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) to all the dealers and cover the repair...
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Old 08-13-2019, 03:00 PM   #18
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I wonder if Dynamax will send a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) to all the dealers and cover the repair...
Are you aware of a repair we haven't covered?

This would be more of an Atwood TSB (Dometic now), in that the divider comes with self-adhesive material on it. In most cases, I think customers have done it and saved the trip to the dealer, but I don't recall any cases that have been denied since it is about a 5 minute fix.
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Old 08-13-2019, 04:56 PM   #19
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I read this thread with great enthusiasm, as my front AC does not do a good job cooling the coach. I just pulled and checked and it is sealed well. I'm only getting a 10-12o difference in hot vs cold air. That seems low.
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Old 08-13-2019, 05:34 PM   #20
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Even better

Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens View Post
Are you aware of a repair we haven't covered?

This would be more of an Atwood TSB (Dometic now), in that the divider comes with self-adhesive material on it. In most cases, I think customers have done it and saved the trip to the dealer, but I don't recall any cases that have been denied since it is about a 5 minute fix.
No, I am not aware of anyone who has been denied.

I am thinking of all of the people who are unaware of the problem and simple fix. They fall into two classes:[LIST][*]Customers who think that's all the cooling they can get. They may put up with the reduced efficiency but bad-mouth the company, or buy from a competitor in the future.[*]Dealers who aren't aware of this fix and tell the customer that it's working as well as it can (when it's not).

I am convinced that customer satisfaction is your goal. Reaching out to all your customers, not just those on the forum is even better. One vehicle to do this is to send a TSB to all your dealers. Explain the problem and simple fix. Another is to send a message to all customers indicating that some units were mis-assembled and that they could inspect theirs or visit their dealer.
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