Well it begins, body crack and front panel separation…ougg

[mmw1124]

I have a new 2023 dynamax isata 5 28 SS with the explorer package..

Now at 8k, 3 months old.. vin no. 1ng299828

Set up to tow 2005 Jeep Wrangler

The coach has developed a crack from the lower right corner of the body(coach side) where the slide out room goes.

It started as a fine line crack and now larger. Starting from the corner screw hole moving diagonally into to molding belt line of the coach.

Additionally, there is a body separation just foreword the electric steps. The molding should cover this area but a large gap between the lower panels now apparent.. either a bad fitup at the factory or body separation, not sure when it happened.

I Started making calls to Dynamax back in August but none returned. Then sent emails, finally got through. Have been working through the agonizing slow process of a warranty claim.

I’m still not sure if the claim has been approved but I send emails trying to get status.. guess I’ve got to be persistent.

My question is, has anybody experienced body cracks or loosened panels on there Dynamax coaches??? Hopefully my dealer is capable of finding the source of the problem.

Not sure how to post pictures,, will try!!

[Wheelin4Life]

Have an identical crack in my 2022. Check my user name for the thread I started on this topic a few months back. Mine cracked going from my house to the local fuel stop and back home no water on board no trailer in tow. Driveway at the fuel stop rolls the rig onto the drivers side as you go in so all I can figure is it flexed enough to crack when I pulled in there.

Currently at the factory being repaired. Or rather its actually been completed I just cant get back there till a week from Monday to pick it up.

There are several of us that have had this issue on various different models. Appears this area needs some room to flex based on where the springs are attached to the chassis in relation to where the slide opening is. The fix is to put in a flexible piece of trim after they cut a slot allowing the area to flex. Several folks have posted pictures of the repair and noted not having any issues after the fact. I am from WA State and took mine to the factory to have it fixed.

Front corner looks pretty normal to others that I have seen including my own.

[bclemens]

As mentioned on the other threads, not stress related. We had one guy cutting slide rooms out with a saw...should be a router so the corners are rounded. An over cut, will crack the glass. We have pulled another one and the structure is fine.

[mmw1124]

Thx for the reply’s,

If I can get the approval from Danielle (dynamax) the local RV shop has a body shop that can do the work. Not sure what the fix would be.

Hopefully Dynamax will recommend a repair procedure.

Any ideas on how to repair??

[mmw1124]

I’m from Bonney Lake Wa

Bought my dynamax from polsbo, they said there body shop could fix this crack.

Could you text me the repair procedure maybe some pics.. (253-686-8551). Appreciate this.

[bclemens]

That is their (Daneille and Poulsbo's) job, and I trust they can fix it. It is just cutting that area out, patching in a new section, body and paint. When they cut out the area they can inspect for any framing issues, but like I said, the 28 is not a high stress area and is a small slide. It is likely just a square, overcut that we have seen before. Danielle will get Poulsbo what they need.

[mmw1124]

Just got a response back from Danielle saying they want to cover the crack with a piece of molding.

This is not acceptable in my opinion..

I agree with bclemens that the proper body work should be done without molding.. In addition more inspection is needed during the repair process to investigate if there is any structural damage so this does not occur again.

The idea of using body molding to cove/hide a body crack would diminish the value of this coach..

Hopefully they fix it right..

[Wheelin4Life]

Originally Posted by mmw1124

Just got a response back from Danielle saying they want to cover the crack with a piece of molding.

This is not acceptable in my opinion..

I agree with bclemens that the proper body work should be done without molding.. In addition more inspection is needed during the repair process to investigate if there is any structural damage so this does not occur again.

The idea of using body molding to cove/hide a body crack would diminish the value of this coach..

Hopefully they fix it right..

This is THE fix for this. If they cut a big patch of fiberglass and body work the entire area it WILL crack again and you will be in the same place all over.

There are several threads in the Dynamax section of this forum and also on the FB groups about this crack and how it has been repaired using a flexible piece of molding and painted to match the body. This allows that area the little bit of flex it needs without cracking the fiberglass again.

Greg the service manager at the factory confirmed this in person with me as well telling me exactly what I have written above. I personally didn't want to keep having to have it fixed as that seemed silly so told him to please use the molding like all the others had been fixed with so I can be done with the issue.

I tagged you in an old post on FB this morning showing the fix in the comments section of the post. I can't seem to quickly find the 2 or 3 others I had looked at when mine cracked at the moment but thats a good finished example.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by mmw1124

Just got a response back from Danielle saying they want to cover the crack with a piece of molding.

This is not acceptable in my opinion..

I agree with bclemens that the proper body work should be done without molding.. In addition more inspection is needed during the repair process to investigate if there is any structural damage so this does not occur again.

The idea of using body molding to cove/hide a body crack would diminish the value of this coach..

Hopefully they fix it right..

That is a typical repair for people towing a heavy trailer as added line of precaution to prevent it from happening again, even if the tongue weight is exceed. I see no reason for it in this case, other than again, assurance it would never happen again. Many 5th wheels I know are doing this from the factory that way in the gooseneck area...just no way to take all of the flex out.

[mmw1124]

Thank your for the replays;

I do not tow anything heavy so essentially little tongue weight (4 down Jeep Wrangler).

From what I can read these similar body cracks go back to 2015, most dynamax models. Some uglier than mine. But strange its in the same place..

The RV body shop that I’m working with disagrees with the molding over crack repair as they have repaired many. They would rather reinforce or repair the structure to reduce this issue. If this is not possible maybe this is a design flaw.

I may not have a choice, but the molding over crack is a sad solution. Sorry,…

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by mmw1124

The RV body shop that I’m working with disagrees with the molding over crack repair as they have repaired many.

I may not have a choice, but the molding over crack is a sad solution. Sorry…

I'm not sure why you keep saying that. If the body shop thinks they can correct it properly, and I am saying it can be repaired without the molding, what's the issue here? The cracks going back to '15 and your crack are apples and oranges.

Those crack issues are 98% behind the axle. It is a high stress point, not even including a trailer. The difference between your Pace Arrow and a Super C, is that the Pace Arrow has a 5k hitch. A super C has anywhere from a 10k hitch to a 20k hitch. It is VERY easy to get the tongue weight wrong on a trailer. I have had guys swear to me, up and down, think I am insulting them "I know how to load my trailer"...only to find out their tongue weight was 3k, 3 times the rated tongue weight on our 10k hitch (I've seen them as high as 6k). Those are the people we suggest the molding to.

In this case, you do not tow a trailer and this is a 28SS where the slide room is in front of the rear axle. This is not a structural issue from my experience...as mentioned, it was likely an overcut (saw blade went past the corner) and it cracked from there. A routed opened, that corner is rounded and does not create a weak spot in the face of the fiberglass.

I already emailed Danielle and let her know I did not think a molding would be necessary.

[mmw1124]

Sorry bclemens, misunderstood your above comments. Thought you were saying that a body over molding was the fix for my situation.

Is there anything you would recommend for the repair other than “best practices” in the body work.

Any reinforcement behind the body crack area,, eg interior build up laminate or fiberglass.

Thanks again for the reply’s..

[Wheelin4Life]

Originally Posted by bclemens

I'm not sure why you keep saying that. If the body shop thinks they can correct it properly, and I am saying it can be repaired without the molding, what's the issue here? The cracks going back to '15 and your crack are apples and oranges.

Those crack issues are 98% behind the axle. It is a high stress point, not even including a trailer. The difference between your Pace Arrow and a Super C, is that the Pace Arrow has a 5k hitch. A super C has anywhere from a 10k hitch to a 20k hitch. It is VERY easy to get the tongue weight wrong on a trailer. I have had guys swear to me, up and down, think I am insulting them "I know how to load my trailer"...only to find out their tongue weight was 3k, 3 times the rated tongue weight on our 10k hitch (I've seen them as high as 6k). Those are the people we suggest the molding to.

In this case, you do not tow a trailer and this is a 28SS where the slide room is in front of the rear axle. This is not a structural issue from my experience...as mentioned, it was likely an overcut (saw blade went past the corner) and it cracked from there. A routed opened, that corner is rounded and does not create a weak spot in the face of the fiberglass.

I already emailed Danielle and let her know I did not think a molding would be necessary.

Or you have people like myself that any little change in trailer or vehicle on it I go weigh it using my truck to set tongue weight and take measurements of where it needs to be to be WELL within limits .....I was more worried about overloading the rear axle and stressing the frame itself though not the body that part never even crossed my mind LOL.

So since I had Greg do the molding (unless they changed course haven't seen it yet) does that mean I can do at least X2 on tongue weight now??

Totally joking. Always appreciate all your support Brian!

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by Wheelin4Life

Or you have people like myself that any little change in trailer or vehicle on it I go weigh it using my truck to set tongue weight and take measurements of where it needs to be to be WELL within limits .....I was more worried about overloading the rear axle and stressing the frame itself though not the body that part never even crossed my mind LOL.

So since I had Greg do the molding (unless they changed course haven't seen it yet) does that mean I can do at least X2 on tongue weight now??

Totally joking. Always appreciate all your support Brian!

Well, it has been done, so, I would say yes, off the record. This message will self destruct.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by mmw1124

Sorry bclemens, misunderstood your above comments. Thought you were saying that a body over molding was the fix for my situation.

Is there anything you would recommend for the repair other than “best practices” in the body work.

Any reinforcement behind the body crack area,, eg interior build up laminate or fiberglass.

Thanks again for the reply’s..

No. Once they open it up, they will clearly see what the issue is and can correct it. If it was an overcut as expected, they dig out the crack and re-glass. The corner just needs to be rounded, not square.

[Wheelin4Life]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Well, it has been done, so, I would say yes, off the record. This message will self destruct.

I'd be too stressed thinking I was causing some kind of excess damage to the rig I could never actually do it. I have terrible luck so better safe than sorry.