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Old 12-01-2021, 05:27 PM   #1
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Which NEMA 14-50 R and P connectors to use?

I like the idea of wiring connectors in my elec bay so I can put the Hughes PWD50-EPO into the locked bay. Also, if it were to fail, be able to bypass it.
Brilliant Magnatudes! Now, when the coach I ordered arrives in 22 I will be wondering what connectors I should use. I see lots of NEMA 14-50P and Rs out there but I have also seen pictures of some of them melted. I found a Hubbell 14-50P that looks real beefy but they don't make a similar 14-50R other than a surface mount unit. So, what connectors should I use and can I be confident they will handle the full 50amp Monty? Thank you very much, Thorne
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Old 12-01-2021, 07:08 PM   #2
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I like the idea of wiring connectors in my elec bay so I can put the Hughes PWD50-EPO into the locked bay. Also, if it were to fail, be able to bypass it.
Brilliant Magnatudes! Now, when the coach I ordered arrives in 22 I will be wondering what connectors I should use. I see lots of NEMA 14-50P and Rs out there but I have also seen pictures of some of them melted. I found a Hubbell 14-50P that looks real beefy but they don't make a similar 14-50R other than a surface mount unit. So, what connectors should I use and can I be confident they will handle the full 50amp Monty? Thank you very much, Thorne
Can't go wrong with a Hubbell or Levington brand. If you've seen any melted it because a wire connection was loose either inside the connector body or the plug and receptacle mating surfaces didn't fit tight
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Old 12-01-2021, 07:40 PM   #3
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You should be using 6/3 wire with ground. Any UL approved 14-50P or R will suffice. They are capable of carrying 50 amps on both legs for a total of 100 amps. The reason you see some melted is due to loose or poor connections either in the plug or receptacle. A flush mount is designed to be installed in an appropriate gang box with suitable wall plate.
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Old 12-01-2021, 11:39 PM   #4
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Hughes sells this kit:

https://hughesautoformers.com/produc...ll-kit-50-amp/
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Old 12-02-2021, 12:51 AM   #5
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Purchased! Thank you. Seems really beefy, just the ticket!
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Old 12-02-2021, 10:09 AM   #6
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At $108, Hughes is pretty proud of that item. The same things, 50 amp pigtail, gang box, receptacle and faceplate can be purchased at Home Depot for $50.
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Old 12-02-2021, 09:56 PM   #7
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Question, I have the new hard-wired 50A Watchdog with EPO. I see that 6/3 wire is stated above with ground. What are people's thoughts on 6/2+8/1 with ground? Obviously the hots would be on 6 ga, neutral and ground on 8 ga. I see many heavy duty 50A dryer cords with this spec. What are thoughts?


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Old 12-03-2021, 12:38 AM   #8
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Question, I have the new hard-wired 50A Watchdog with EPO. I see that 6/3 wire is stated above with ground. What are people's thoughts on 6/2+8/1 with ground? Obviously the hots would be on 6 ga, neutral and ground on 8 ga. I see many heavy duty 50A dryer cords with this spec. What are thoughts?


Jim
Not an electrician but I often play one with homes, cars, boats and motorcycles. The Hots and the common need to be the same size. The reason one common works with two hots in a 240volt scenario is that the current is exactly out of phase so the common only ever sees what one of the hots has at a time and then cycles to what the other hot sees. That may not make sense but you need the hot and the common to be the same size. Its only the ground that can be smaller because it really only acts as an emergency relief.

Can you please post up some pictures of the area your working on as I am trying to get parts to wire in the removable Watchdog. My thinking is that I want it in the locked bay but I also want the option to remove it from the circuit should it take a dump/lightning strike
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Old 12-03-2021, 10:19 AM   #9
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I have a new jumper wire on order, I'm currently only connected to 30A.


The coach power feed is the one on the right, it's an armored cable, has 6/3 with probably an 18 or smaller gauge ground. The one on the left is the dryer cord that I modified. Other pic is how the termination block on the southwire power reel works. Secured everything within an inch or two and the power watchdog is happy.


Let me know if you want a different pic, but, I have a late 2021 3400KD, imagine it'd be same as your in-progress 2022.


Jim
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Old 12-03-2021, 05:15 PM   #10
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Other pic is how the termination block on the southwire power reel works.
Jim
So the top pic is the side of the power reel where the armored cable originally came out of? (right side to the rear of RV)?
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Old 12-03-2021, 05:29 PM   #11
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The bottom of that device goes toward the coach. So, I suspect the armored cable, that looks like LiquidTight Conduit, goes into the coach.
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Old 12-03-2021, 05:41 PM   #12
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Yep, disconnect the Liquid Tight Conduit from the cord reel and wire to the cord with the male plug.

Then wire the female receptacle box to the cord reel.

You can then plug your surge protector in between the two - or not!

Here's another pic. It is a vertical picture, may be sideways...
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Old 12-03-2021, 06:55 PM   #13
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Ya, and for some reason my top pic is sideways. That is what it looks like under the steel cover on right side of the power reel. I didn't cut anything off of factory wire so that it technically could be put back the way it was, that is why they are sitting a bit weird.


Power watchdog input is at top and output is at bottom, due to the orientation in there it made most sense to mount it sideways in there to get ahold of the factory wires on the output side.


I had to buy 10 ft of 6/3 wire, so, if anyone else needs/wants to do this, I'll have some spare wire, as I only need about 2-3 ft tops.



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Old 12-03-2021, 07:02 PM   #14
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Question, I have the new hard-wired 50A Watchdog with EPO. I see that 6/3 wire is stated above with ground. What are people's thoughts on 6/2+8/1 with ground? Obviously the hots would be on 6 ga, neutral and ground on 8 ga. I see many heavy duty 50A dryer cords with this spec. What are thoughts?


Jim
Neutral has to be the same size as the hots, since it may have to carry the same current. I know the odds are that you will never be drawing 50 amps exclusively on one leg, but I don't cut corners with electrical wiring.
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Old 12-03-2021, 07:09 PM   #15
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I have correct wire on order and I'll fix it next week. Till then, I'm only plugged into 30A service at the house.



I've been doing much reading on this, I feel that with 240V, the wire I have would be fine, problem starts due to 120V. With 240V, the neutral only carries current difference between the 2 hot legs, since I am currently using a dryer cord, it's always running 240V and likely spreading the load pretty equally across the legs. With the 120V, there's more of a chance of a single leg going full 50A, which would put full 50A load on the neutral. (I believe I get it now, please correct me if I'm wrong here)



Why we have these forums, and certainly why I asked the question.



Thanks,
Jim
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Old 12-04-2021, 07:22 AM   #16
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I would suggest you get a certified electrician out to get it wired up properly. You're dealing with some serious power and fire hazard if not done correctly. The electrician could get you fixed up and give you some education rather quickly.

All the wiring should be in conduit, junction boxes all properly anchored with the correct fittings. No exposed wiring.

Also, I would want to be able to bypass the surge protector in case of a failure. That's why we were discussing the addition of an outlet and male plug.

Just my HO. I'm concerned about the well being of you and your rig.
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Old 12-04-2021, 11:07 AM   #17
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I would suggest the addition of dielectric grease at the connections. https://www.amazon.com/CRC-6113-Mari...8633695&sr=8-7
This one is great because you can pump in some grease into the big holes and then put the wire in and all is coated. Leave some of it coating everything.
Another suggestion is to go back and check connections are tight. Sometimes the copper wire settles a bit and the last thing you want is a loose connection. This happens more often with stranded wire which is the best because it carries more current. Electrons like to travel on the skin of the copper and that is why welding cables are stranded...very fine strands! Don't break the fitting, just re-check that it is tight after a couple of days/weeks. I found my main breaker panel in the GarageMahal had a loose hot wire after a couple of weeks. My inspector said my electrical work was the best he has seen so you can do the job, just be meticulous and do your research.
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Old 12-04-2021, 11:15 AM   #18
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Neutral has to be the same size as the hots, since it may have to carry the same current. I know the odds are that you will never be drawing 50 amps exclusively on one leg, but I don't cut corners with electrical wiring.
For everyone following along, Neutral = Common Normally white and must be same size as the hots which often are black and red.

Ground, is usually green or bare. In a main fuse box they are often treated the same and connect up to the same connection bars. In a Sub Panel, they are separate with ground going down to the copper rod in the ground and/or back to main panel green. Local codes sometimes call for a separate grounding rod at the sub panel. I had to learn all this once my GarageMahal was ordered and there are no descent electricians where my vacation home is located.
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Old 12-10-2021, 03:09 PM   #19
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FWIW, I switched over to the portable unit that is now plugged into a freshly installed hard-wired outlet in the front bay. Happy Friday



Jim
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