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Old 01-18-2021, 10:10 AM   #1
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Would someone please make sense to me about the leveling controls?

Maybe it's just me but my auto leveling system has never worked correctly since I bought my RV. I ALWAYS have to go back and manually adjust the system to level out my RV. It hasn't been a big deal, I'm sure it just needs recalibrated.

But here's my issue. There are 4 legs and 4 buttons. WHY didn't the manufacturer just assign one button to one leg instead of one button for either a side or the front or rear two legs?

When you go to do your final adjustment if you are manually leveling the RV, you can't just push the right front corner for instance because it wants to push down both fronts.

Annoying and doesn't make sense.... any of you rocket scientists know how to reprogram this?

Thanks!

Mark
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Old 01-18-2021, 10:17 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangecrush View Post
Maybe it's just me but my auto leveling system has never worked correctly since I bought my RV. I ALWAYS have to go back and manually adjust the system to level out my RV. It hasn't been a big deal, I'm sure it just needs recalibrated.

But here's my issue. There are 4 legs and 4 buttons. WHY didn't the manufacturer just assign one button to one leg instead of one button for either a side or the front or rear two legs?

When you go to do your final adjustment if you are manually leveling the RV, you can't just push the right front corner for instance because it wants to push down both fronts.

Annoying and doesn't make sense.... any of you rocket scientists know how to reprogram this?

Thanks!

Mark
LOL, will be waiting to find out how to possibly reprogram the system for individual controls. I spend numerous hours trying to figure out the controls just to find out they work in pairs and not individual. Lucky for us the Autolevel works great as long you are not in the RV while using the Autolevel function.
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Old 01-18-2021, 10:19 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Orangecrush View Post
There are 4 legs and 4 buttons. WHY didn't the manufacturer just assign one button to one leg instead of one button for either a side or the front or rear two legs?

Mark
Because the jacks need to operate in "pairs", otherwise you have the ability to twist the coach and cause damage.
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Old 01-18-2021, 10:24 AM   #4
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If it's an LCI (Lippert) system the program procedure for auto level is in your manual. Here's the procedure:


LEVEL ZERO POINT CALIBRATION
Before auto-leveling features are available, the Level Zero point must be set. This is the point to which the system will return when an auto leveling cycle is initiated. To set the zero point (controller module must be fully secured in production intent location), first run a manual leveling sequence to get the vehicle to the desired level point. Then activate the Level Zero point configuration mode.
This mode is enabled by performing the following sequence:
1. Turn panel off. Then turn panel on.
2. Perform the following: -Press the FRONT switch 5 times. -Press the REAR switch 5 times.
3. At this point all LED outputs will blink, and the buzzer will be off.
4. You are now in IDLE mode ready to set Zero Point.
5. Press the RETRACT ALL switch 3 times to set the Zero Point.
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Old 01-18-2021, 10:38 AM   #5
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Makes complete sense.
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Old 01-18-2021, 12:02 PM   #6
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The OP did not mention what type of leveler system they have. If they have a Lippert system, there are three hydraulic valves. The front two cylinders are connected to each other and to the same valve.

If you want to tilt the RV top to the left, you lower the right rear jack. The right front jack can also extend and draw fluid from the left front jack, which would compress.

If you were able to individually control all four jacks, you could possibly leave a jack dangling, with no support for that corner, and twist the frame of the truck. With three valves and 2 jacks operating as a pair, all four corners will be supported, either by a wheel or a jack.

As mentioned in post #4, you can possibly recalibrate the auto level set point yourself. You should have the operating manual for the jack system you own, or should download the manual if you don’t have one.
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Old 01-18-2021, 12:04 PM   #7
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It would likely be Power Gear or Equalizer.
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Old 01-18-2021, 01:27 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by BehindBars View Post

If you were able to individually control all four jacks, you could possibly leave a jack dangling, with no support for that corner, and twist the frame of the truck. With three valves and 2 jacks operating as a pair, all four corners will be supported, either by a wheel or a jack.
My experience with the Lippert system is that if you level the coach using the Auto system and then find that its not level, and (say) too low at the Front or the D/S. When you press the manual raise for say Front or D/S, those jacks will extend and the one that extended the least on the opposite pair may retract sufficiently to dangle. So you have to then press the opposite pair either Rear or P/S just enough to re engage the dangling jack but it will also lower the one you originally tried to correct. And so it goes on until you get it right. Can take quite a few adjustments.
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Old 01-18-2021, 01:36 PM   #9
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Mark if you want auto to work you probably just need to recalibrate what level is.

In my experience even when correctly calibrated the auto still goes up an extra 2" beyond what I feel is necessary, so I've just skipped the auto button altogether and manually do it myself. Honestly I probably finish it just as fast as the auto leveler anyways.

From what I've seen there are only 3 valves on the manifold (front, back left, back right would be my guess) I'd also guess that the fronts are plumbed together to equalize pressure based on how they behave. Not something you're going to easily modify to work as you mention, though I do agree that a commercial truck chassis is likely much less susceptible to the twist that lippert is concerned about.
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Old 01-18-2021, 02:14 PM   #10
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In my experience even when correctly calibrated the auto still goes up an extra 2" beyond what I feel is necessary, so I've just skipped the auto button altogether and manually do it myself. Honestly I probably finish it just as fast as the auto leveler anyways.

Us too. I never bother with the auto level. Way faster to do it myself.
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Old 01-18-2021, 02:18 PM   #11
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Big Foot Jacks

I have Big Foot Jacks on my Coachmen Concord 300TS. I called the manufacture and they were extremely helpful. 2 lift switches and a rod needed to be replaced and it was very low on oil (Our pumps require ATF (Dexron III) do NOT use hydraulic fluid in our systems.) I still have lights on the controller that don't seem to be operating correctly. The manufacturer gave me the name of a local dealer and they have my RV as I type. They may have to replace the controller, which is under warranty.
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Old 01-18-2021, 02:20 PM   #12
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In my experience even when correctly calibrated the auto still goes up an extra 2" beyond what I feel is necessary, so I've just skipped the auto button altogether and manually do it myself. Honestly I probably finish it just as fast as the auto leveler anyways.
Absolutely agreed. Plus auto really jerks the coach around. My procedure:

Use Manual to bring down either the front or rear jacks, whichever end is the lowest.

Bring that end to level but not enough to lift the tires off the ground or even close to doing that.

Then bring down the other set until they just barely lift that end of the coach.

Recheck the front to rear level and adjust if needed. Check to assure no tires are off the ground or start over and add blocks under them.

Then level left-right.

FWIW,

Ray
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Old 01-18-2021, 02:48 PM   #13
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Absolutely agree that it is much easier and faster to use the manual buttons to level coach rather than auto level. Auto level jerks the coach around and usually results in lifting one or more wheels off the ground! I have had the same experiences thru at least a half dozen new coaches.
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Old 01-18-2021, 04:14 PM   #14
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For the last 8 years I have routinely lifted a front wheel off the ground on jacks for more than 3 days with no consequences: no cupped tires, no jack issues, no shock problems. I rationalize that whether there is 1000# or 5# weight on the tire it makes no difference to the tire; and once in the air, the worst that's going to happen is a seal is going to fail and the shock absorber will get a minor surprise that would not be any greater from 2 inches in the air than it would be with only 5# of pressure on the tire carcass. In addition by making the coach level it improves fridge operation, drains water correctly reduces twist to the chassis and makes sleeping more comfortable.

With that said I do try to avoid making the rear of the coach the high lift point for the jacks but not sure why. Hydraulic oil has way more ability to limit compressibility than these tiny coaches represent. I think this fear of heights dates back to the days when the jacks were initially offered and their reliability was dubious.
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Old 01-18-2021, 04:34 PM   #15
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Would someone please make sense to me about the leveling controls?

I don't know if this went through already. Not showing up on my computer.

Check out this video.


If this isn't your control, copy the above thread and paste it on your web browser. It should bring you to the Youtube site.
The above video will show up. But, down the right side of your page will also be a bunch of other videos for other leveling controls. Maybe yours is one of them.
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Old 01-18-2021, 04:43 PM   #16
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I think the risks of tires off the ground is twofold:

Shocks are definitely not designed to support the weight of an axle plus tires. If you've seen how they're constructed you'd agree with this. That's what limit straps are for

The jacks are not designed for lateral stability. I've seen a couple damaged jack brackets on here now. In most cases you may not have a lateral force, but without tires on the ground if you do, theres a good chance of a problem.

And rear tires off the ground takes the parking break out of play. Hope I don't need to explain why that's a bad idea.

Glad you're comfortable with it, but I don't think the absence of a problem is evidence it's ok, and I sure wouldn't be encouraging others to do so.
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Old 01-18-2021, 05:08 PM   #17
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My experience has been to use the auto level ability as long as it works as it is supposed to based on using a mid-floor 'level' to ensure it is about as good as I ever could get doing it manually. Re-calibration is not all that difficult and I have had fairly good luck with such effort on the Dynamax. Like many I certainly prefer not to have the front wheels up off the ground unless absolutely necessary but then if the campground site claims to be mainly level then I have to reason that wheels off the ground means the auto-leveler needs recalibration and I have to manually get things squared away. During that process I perform the recalibration with 'level' to get things back to zero for the auto level. So far I have been happy with the results and use the auto function without problem. Nothing is perfect but the equipment should work as advertised and certainly at the extra expense for auto-levelers then I expect the function to work with periodic recalibration as necessary but to work as advertised just the same.
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Old 01-18-2021, 05:58 PM   #18
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Quote:
and once in the air, the worst that's going to happen is a seal is going to fail ...
Quote:
... reduces twist to the chassis ...
That actually is what will happen if a jack seal fails. That corner drops and the chassis or frame twists. Some coaches have had the windshield pop loose or even out.

Quote:
With that said I do try to avoid making the rear of the coach the high lift point for the jacks but not sure why.
It's because you're removing weight from the rear wheels and the rear wheels have the parking brake. If you lift the rear wheels too high the entire coach could slide on soft ground or in a strong wind. No jack is going to withstand that kind of motion.

Ray
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Old 01-18-2021, 06:43 PM   #19
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I believe Dynamax has a YouTube video on resetting the “Null” on the Equalizer Leveling System. Once the “Null” is reset the Auto Level works fairly well. Check out the video. There is a link on the Dynamax website as well.
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Old 01-18-2021, 09:38 PM   #20
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never recalibrate your leveling system until you have visually confirmed the box with the level controller is secure. Our new Berk levelers weren't working properly and I found the level control box was dangling by one screw
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