Your favorite DX3 upgrades

[Trialrun85]

Good Luck! You can do it.

[MoJoe1003]

Replaced the lighting over the theater seats.

Replaced the cab over bunk curtain.

Added LED mood lighting around the back of the TV.

Replaced the kitchen sink faucet.

Replaced the front shocks with FOX Commercial shocks. Very noticeable improvement in the ride and handling.

[MouseHouse]

My lighting upgrade

[shultz01]

Was busy over the winter since taking delivery of our XL from Jason at Performance RV.
Added the C9 grille kit and Diode Dynamics driving and fog lights.

Added glove holder, shelf/paper towel holder and a stinky slinky tube to the wet bay.

Added additional shelves to the kitchen cabinets.

Added a drawer below the washer & dryer

Added Sport Chassis door panels and a separate amp for the speakers, SCI steering wheel, rubber floor mats, CB w/external speaker and NGP antenna, center console, phone holder, TPMS mount, and my National seats to the cockpit.

Added propane bottle rack and fire extinguisher to Aquahot bay.

Closed off under the leveling jacks hydraulics with mud flap material to protect it a little more from the elements.
Added muds flaps front, rear and in front of the entry stairs and battery bay.
Did the kitchen sink upgrade that others did—we thought that was a great idea.
Added a light in the cabinet under the kitchen sink that comes on when the door opens.
Swapped out the RoadTrip Winegard for the Trav’ler.
Swapped out the High Polish wheels from Dura Brights and did internal TPMS on the rear.
Installed the Air Force One braking system, spare tire and wheel w/hoist and train horns that we were using on the Force.
Like I said, I was busy!! So glad to be done and ready for the camping season!!

[Bill Davis]

Originally Posted by MoJoe1003

Replaced the lighting over the theater seats.
Attachment 272511
Replaced the cab over bunk curtain.
Attachment 272512
Added LED mood lighting around the back of the TV.
Attachment 272513
Replaced the kitchen sink faucet.
Attachment 272515
Replaced the front shocks with FOX Commercial shocks. Very noticeable improvement in the ride and handling.
Attachment 272514

It looks like the shocks are upside down.

[shultz01]

Originally Posted by Bill Davis

It looks like the shocks are upside down.

Nope. They are installed correctly. But I know what you mean. ;-)

[MoJoe1003]

Andy, how did you get that draw in under the washer/dryer? We have the same model XL and my water pump and a heater cozie are mounted right at the opening. I installed a drop down door there but a drawer wouldn’t seem to fit.
Also, interested in your sewer hose solution. Maybe you can show me at the gathering in June.

[MoJoe1003]

Originally Posted by Bill Davis

It looks like the shocks are upside down.

I thought the same thing at first. However, Fox seems to know we would think that and provided a helpful little sticker to dispel any doubt.

[shultz01]

Originally Posted by MoJoe1003

Andy, how did you get that draw in under the washer/dryer? We have the same model XL and my water pump and a heater cozie are mounted right at the opening. I installed a drop down door there but a drawer wouldn’t seem to fit.
Also, interested in your sewer hose solution. Maybe you can show me at the gathering in June. Attachment 272617

I ordered a drawer that was about 4” smaller than the opening. Still allowed me to have a 6” deep drawer. You can kinda see it on this picture. Great minds think alike…I made the louvre panel under the frig a flip up. :-) We can definitely do a Show and Tell at the gathering.

[joet19711]

Andy,
Congrats on the new XL and kudos on the upgrades, great job.
I am getting better, just not quick enough

[shultz01]

Originally Posted by joet19711

Andy,
Congrats on the new XL and kudos on the upgrades, great job.
I am getting better, just not quick enough

Thanks, Joe! :-)

[CyberShanks]

Some very nice upgrades by all of you indeed. I need to hide my credit card from myself for awhile...


Jim

[MoJoe1003]

Originally Posted by shultz01

I ordered a drawer that was about 4” smaller than the opening. Still allowed me to have a 6” deep drawer. You can kinda see it on this picture. Great minds think alike…I made the louvre panel under the frig a flip up. :-) We can definitely do a Show and Tell at the gathering.
Attachment 272622

So, does the drawer ride above your water pump and heater cozie?

I made my panel flip down so I didn’t have to lay my head on the floor to see in there. I’m still pretty close to having to lay on the floor anyway.

[MoJoe1003]

Originally Posted by CyberShanks

Some very nice upgrades by all of you indeed. I need to hide my credit card from myself for awhile...


Jim

Oh man, these guys are brilliant, but this thread has cost me a lot of money! Tell me again why I revived it…LOL!

[MoJoe1003]

Call it OCD, but I found the light and slide buttons in the bedroom of our 3801 TS XL were in an odd order (MHO). The slide in and slide out buttons were the first two buttons when entering the room. The two light switch buttons were the farthest from the door. Easy fix, remove the faceplate, drill a new hole for the communications cables, flip the circuit board over and reinstall. Then pop the button labels out of the faceplate and reposition them in the correct order. Now the light buttons are the first buttons closest to the door as you enter the bedroom. Did the same in the bathroom last year so the light switch was first and the water pump switch was second. Had many a guest turn the water pump instead of the light.


Installed a new SCI steering wheel. Looks and feels great! Thank you to EdandShelley for the generous gift. You’re too much!

[Abe padgett]

Could I get the make and model please of the fireplace

[Sharon455]

Originally Posted by Abe padgett

Could I get the make and model please of the fireplace

You might want to quote the post with the fireplace so that the poster will be notified, also, there are other fireplaces in this thread so no way to tell which one you are referencing.

[EdandShelley]

Originally Posted by MoJoe1003

Call it OCD, but I found the light and slide buttons in the bedroom of our 3801 TS XL were in an odd order (MHO). The slide in and slide out buttons were the first two buttons when entering the room. The two light switch buttons were the farthest from the door. Easy fix, remove the faceplate, drill a new hole for the communications cables, flip the circuit board over and reinstall. Then pop the button labels out of the faceplate and reposition them in the correct order. Now the light buttons are the first buttons closest to the door as you enter the bedroom. Did the same in the bathroom last year so the light switch was first and the water pump switch was second. Had many a guest turn the water pump instead of the light.
Attachment 275345

Installed a new SCI steering wheel. Looks and feels great! Thank you to EdandShelley for the generous gift. You’re too much!
Attachment 275346

Joe… you really helped us with the awning from hell. We appreciated all the assistance and friendship. Finally fully operational!

[EdandShelley]

We replaced the DYNAMAX logo on our last factory trip (original had an carve defect). Greg and I talked about how cool it would be to light up the logo.

Well, that has been in my mind since the trip. So I took it on…with a little engineering help from a company I work with. We were originally going with electroluminescent tape but it requires a 12V to 24V step up box then a 24V to 110V device. All to find out the tape could not glow bright enough for the day and had a delay lighting up.

So, I went down the 12V LED light box path. Here are the rough order of steps to complete. About 8 hours of work….much of it detailing the letters so they are “sharp” when lit.


- remove the current logo (on our XL). Attached with silicone. Use a long putty knife to remove. Go slow.

- get a piece of plexiglass cut to match size of the logo plate.

- cut 1”x1/2” wood strips to line the edge of the plexiglass.

- use foil tape (used for HVAC systems) to cover inside of plexiglass. (Makes it reflective)

- time consumer step… cut the reflective tape to match the logo and put it on the back of the logo panel. Will assure the light doesn’t come through any part except the letters. Also creates more reflection so light is even.

- apply 12v led light strip all along inside of wood strips from above and have power lead go through wood in the lower right corner.

- drill a hole in the lower right area if your steps to match the power leads. Attach approx 3’ of wire to the left strip leads and put them through the hole you drilled in the stairs.

- silicone and light box to the top stair where the logo was originally. Put silicone in the hole where the wires run.

- under rv behind stairs. Run wire down from hole to the stairs wire bundle. You should have two unused plugs that are marked “stair lights”. These power up with the outside handle. Attach positive to positive and negative to negative. Then test

- if all works… attach logo plate to front to light box with 3M heavy duty tape

- you will need a wider strip of stair trim to cover the light box. Easy to buy.

- calk edges with color to match entry stairs.

- enjoy your results

[MasterBlaster]

Originally Posted by EdandShelley

We replaced the DYNAMAX logo on our last factory trip (original had an carve defect). Greg and I talked about how cool it would be to light up the logo.

Well, that has been in my mind since the trip. So I took it on…with a little engineering help from a company I work with. We were originally going with electroluminescent tape but it requires a 12V to 24V step up box then a 24V to 110V device. All to find out the tape could not glow bright enough for the day and had a delay lighting up.

So, I went down the 12V LED light box path. Here are the rough order of steps to complete. About 8 hours of work….much of it detailing the letters so they are “sharp” when lit.


- remove the current logo (on our XL). Attached with silicone. Use a long putty knife to remove. Go slow.

- get a piece of plexiglass cut to match size of the logo plate.

- cut 1”x1/2” wood strips to line the edge of the plexiglass.

- use foil tape (used for HVAC systems) to cover inside of plexiglass. (Makes it reflective)

- time consumer step… cut the reflective tape to match the logo and put it on the back of the logo panel. Will assure the light doesn’t come through any part except the letters. Also creates more reflection so light is even.

- apply 12v led light strip all along inside of wood strips from above and have power lead go through wood in the lower right corner.

- drill a hole in the lower right area if your steps to match the power leads. Attach approx 3’ of wire to the left strip leads and put them through the hole you drilled in the stairs.

- silicone and light box to the top stair where the logo was originally. Put silicone in the hole where the wires run.

- under rv behind stairs. Run wire down from hole to the stairs wire bundle. You should have two unused plugs that are marked “stair lights”. These power up with the outside handle. Attach positive to positive and negative to negative. Then test

- if all works… attach logo plate to front to light box with 3M heavy duty tape

- you will need a wider strip of stair trim to cover the light box. Easy to buy.

- calk edges with color to match entry stairs.

- enjoy your results



Attachment 275479Attachment 275480Attachment 275481

Looks great Ed