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Old 06-13-2022, 10:28 PM   #1
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22 37fll bedroom hot

Anyone else 2022 Sabre 37fll feel like yalls 2 AC units ain’t cutting it? Our master bedroom is always hot/warm at night. We hardly feel any cool air through the vents. We’re considering putting a portable ac in the room. I can’t be the only one with this issue. We installed rv airflow to hope that would help but it hardly did anything.

Any tips or ideas?
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Old 06-14-2022, 06:59 AM   #2
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Anyone else 2022 Sabre 37fll feel like yalls 2 AC units ain’t cutting it? Our master bedroom is always hot/warm at night. We hardly feel any cool air through the vents. We’re considering putting a portable ac in the room. I can’t be the only one with this issue. We installed rv airflow to hope that would help but it hardly did anything.

Any tips or ideas?


HI and welcome to the forum!

I think you did the right thing by adding the RV Airflow to both of your AC units to improve air flow throughout the RV. I put those in mine as well for the same reason as you. I'm positive it's helping, but not enough in that one room. I've heard other FLL (and same floorplan on other makes/models) owners have similar experiences as you and likely just due to the downside of that fiver's floorplan.

Outside of putting a portable AC unit or fan in the bedroom to cool it, have you considered tinting the clear windows on your RV? Although there aren't many windows in your bedroom, tinting all of them in your RV with a dark, nano ceramic film that rejects almost all of the suns UV rays which heat it up does make a difference. When I did it in my FLH, it reduced the heat which came thru our clear windows and zebra shades by 7 to 10 degrees. Our AC units no longer work as hard to cool the RV and keeps cooler longer without them kicking on again. It was also a nice upgrade for privacy (I installed a 20 percent tint). It was a less expensive upgrade than the RV Airflows, but took me a couple weeks taking my time and going slow to tint all 17 windows. It was well worth it for us though.
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Old 06-15-2022, 09:32 AM   #3
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Have a 2021 37flh. Got it July 2021. Difficult to keep bed room real cool. Noticed rear bathroom real warm. A lot of heat coming from vent and shower sky light. Put installation in vent and aluminum installation on skylight in shower. November 2021 went to frankenmuth Michigan, north of Flint. Live in Tampa Florida area. Got cold. Bathroom real cold. Same installation for vent and skylight! Solved the problem. Also close bathroom door. Hope this helps you.
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Old 06-15-2022, 10:21 AM   #4
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Have a 2021 37flh. Got it July 2021. Difficult to keep bed room real cool. Noticed rear bathroom real warm. A lot of heat coming from vent and shower sky light. Put installation in vent and aluminum installation on skylight in shower. November 2021 went to frankenmuth Michigan, north of Flint. Live in Tampa Florida area. Got cold. Bathroom real cold. Same installation for vent and skylight! Solved the problem. Also close bathroom door. Hope this helps you.


The combination of the clear windows with no heat blocking tint and cheap fabric shades don't help. Once I tinted the windows to block out 80 percent sunlight and replaced the bedroom fabric blinds with blackout roller shades, it made a big difference for us. I've been keeping both our AC's on cool low for the past few days here where its been in the mid 90's. Bathroom, bedroom and rest of the RV is cool as cucumber.

And, seeing how the master bathroom didn't have any kind of blind or shade, it was warm back in ours too. I also added a blackout roller shade to the tinted master bath window. The only uncovered area of our FLH from the roof is the shower skylight. One of the first items I installed on ours when we got it were white Maxxair vent covers and it helped keep the heat from coming in thru the fan vents for us.
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Old 06-16-2022, 01:38 PM   #5
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Ours is also pretty hot. I have done the rear AC with rv airflow equivalents, and while it probably doubled airflow in the rear bedroom, absolute value is still crap. I'm going to do the front AC airflow next, but don't expect too much of a help in the back bedroom. The increase in airflow at other vents in the ceiling after doing the airflow upgrade was significant, so i kinda feel like the reduced volume in the bedroom is an artifact of the added vertical distance down through the loft to the bedroom vents.

I pulled the vents off and taped up the foil but it didn't help too much. That exercise did highlight just how far the vertical drop is for the back bedroom vents - if it's just a straight corner in the racetrack up top, it's no surprise the air flow in the bedroom is terrible. I've contemplated closing 1 of the vents in the loft - it gets cold up there pretty quick when we fire up the ACs, so that might drive more air to the bedroom. However, if the angle to the bedroom vents is 90 degrees and nothing else, closing a vent might just route more air around the racetrack and not down.

I'm still thinking about it, but don't have any great solutions nor think your issue is unique by any means.
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Old 06-16-2022, 02:20 PM   #6
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The increase in airflow at other vents in the ceiling after doing the airflow upgrade was significant, so i kinda feel like the reduced volume in the bedroom is an artifact of the added vertical distance down through the loft to the bedroom vents.

I'm still thinking about it, but don't have any great solutions nor think your issue is unique by any means.


You're absolutely correct with your assessment. It's nothing to do with the AC's or build quality issues but all to do with that RV's floorplan and how it requires very long ducting for moving the air into the downstairs bedroom. Many folks with different makes and models of RV's with this same type floorplan have the same exact complaint.

Your only option is adding a portable AC unit in the bedroom, or fan to better circulate the air in that part of the RV. That, or take steps unrelated to your AC to cool the entire coach, like upgrading to blackout roller shades, installing side window valences to block the sun, and installing nano-ceramic window tint that rejects up to 99 percent of UV that generates heat. The good news is these upgrades don't cost a fortune to install.
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Old 06-16-2022, 04:43 PM   #7
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I had the same issue with my front bedroom in my 5er. I made my own airflow thingies and all that did was blow more cold air everywhere, which was nice, but not helping my bedroom. So I added a dump door to the inside shroud. Just cut a hole in the shroud right under the a/c output fan. This dumps all the air from that a/c right into the bedroom. That makes it get cold real quick. I use a piece of 1" foam that slides in above the dump door so when I shut the door, the air gets distributed to the ceiling vents.

Might be better than adding another a/c.

First pic is with the door closed.

Second pic is door open but the styrofoam plug is in place.

Third pic is with the plug moved to the side. The plug just stays in the vent.
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Old 06-16-2022, 04:59 PM   #8
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I had the same issue with my front bedroom in my 5er. I made my own airflow thingies and all that did was blow more cold air everywhere, which was nice, but not helping my bedroom. So I added a dump door to the inside shroud. Just cut a hole in the shroud right under the a/c output fan. This dumps all the air from that a/c right into the bedroom. That makes it get cold real quick. I use a piece of 1" foam that slides in above the dump door so when I shut the door, the air gets distributed to the ceiling vents.

Might be better than adding another a/c.

First pic is with the door closed.

Second pic is door open but the styrofoam plug is in place.

Third pic is with the plug moved to the side. The plug just stays in the vent.

Unfortunately, that won't work for them. In this floorplan, the AC in the rear of the coach is over the loft area, which they've said already gets plenty of cold air. The master bedroom is separate and is another floor below the loft. Nothing more than AC vents in the ceiling of the master bedroom on this model. Very long and apparently angled ducts coming down from the roof (probably four or five feet in length, if not much more).
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Old 06-16-2022, 05:06 PM   #9
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Might be better than adding another a/c.

Forgot to add that there's no factory prep or ducting for adding a third AC unit to the Sabre fifth wheels. Plus, a third roof AC still won't fix the problem of how far vertically down and angled the air would have to travel to get to that bedroom.
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Old 06-16-2022, 05:55 PM   #10
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Forgot to add that there's no factory prep or ducting for adding a third AC unit to the Sabre fifth wheels. Plus, a third roof AC still won't fix the problem of how far vertically down and angled the air would have to travel to get to that bedroom.
Gotcha. I assumed it was in the front bedroom. Went online and see it's in the kitchen. Crappy design.
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Old 06-17-2022, 07:19 AM   #11
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Gotcha. I assumed it was in the front bedroom. Went online and see it's in the kitchen. Crappy design.


Just wanted to say I stand corrected about the location of the second AC in this floorplan....you're correct its in the kitchen and not above the loft, like I thought. This makes for an even longer AC duct run to that master bedroom. And, to make matters worse, the master bedroom only has one duct in the ceiling (provided the pictures on FR's website are up to date). Both bad designs, in my opinion too.

The only way I see to improve the airflow to that part of the RV is for the factory to add more ducts in the master suite. That, and install fans in those long duct runs to draw more air toward and into that room.

I have to admit that although its an innovative floorplan, it introduces lots of problems in regulating temperatures and humidity levels evenly throughout the rig.
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Old 06-17-2022, 08:10 AM   #12
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We’re considering putting a portable ac in the room.
You've gotten lots of good suggestion so I'm going to address the portable ac question.
We bought a standalone portable ac for our house in case the ac broke or the power went out and we needed to use the portable generator. Our goal was to have ac in one room to get out of the heat.
The only drawback is that you need to vent them and have enough power to run them. These are the features we have on DeLonghi and love it. "remote, energy saving mode, extremely quiet, dehumidifier, fan, programmable, window venting"
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Old 06-17-2022, 10:21 AM   #13
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Just wanted to say I stand corrected about the location of the second AC in this floorplan....you're correct its in the kitchen and not above the loft, like I thought. This makes for an even longer AC duct run to that master bedroom. And, to make matters worse, the master bedroom only has one duct in the ceiling (provided the pictures on FR's website are up to date). Both bad designs, in my opinion too.

The only way I see to improve the airflow to that part of the RV is for the factory to add more ducts in the master suite. That, and install fans in those long duct runs to draw more air toward and into that room.

I have to admit that although its an innovative floorplan, it introduces lots of problems in regulating temperatures and humidity levels evenly throughout the rig.
There is a second bedroom vent under the cabinets at the head of the bed, but it has about the same airflow as the other. Small fans to pull some air might be an interesting thing to try.
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Old 06-17-2022, 10:24 AM   #14
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You've gotten lots of good suggestion so I'm going to address the portable ac question.
We bought a standalone portable ac for our house in case the ac broke or the power went out and we needed to use the portable generator. Our goal was to have ac in one room to get out of the heat.
The only drawback is that you need to vent them and have enough power to run them. These are the features we have on DeLonghi and love it. "remote, energy saving mode, extremely quiet, dehumidifier, fan, programmable, window venting"
The washer/dryer prep in the 37FLL is in the master bedroom in the closet. So there's already power and a drain in there (most seem to drain into the black, although some say theirs go to the grey). You have to cut a hole in the wall and either tap into the bathroom vent or make your own if you need air venting. However, putting a portable AC in that space might work out well.
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Old 06-17-2022, 10:57 AM   #15
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Folks in two story or story and a half homes have to re balance there ac vents spring and fall to better distribute the ac. Houses with dual ac systems do not need to do this.

This might help some to cut off air to the lofts.

Thermo pane glass might have helped.

To me it appears to be a design flaw. A supplemental small unit in the bedroom is the likely solution.

The big expensive fifth wheels usually have three ac units. 15,000 btu's would help.
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Old 06-17-2022, 11:42 AM   #16
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The washer/dryer prep in the 37FLL is in the master bedroom in the closet. So there's already power and a drain in there (most seem to drain into the black, although some say theirs go to the grey). You have to cut a hole in the wall and either tap into the bathroom vent or make your own if you need air venting. However, putting a portable AC in that space might work out well.
Just to clarify... our portable ac doesn't drain the water so all you need is a vent. Ours came with a window venting kit which is nothing but expandable plastic with a hole in the middle.
It wouldn't work in our rig, our rig too small and the windows only swing open. It does work surprisingly well in our home, but I have no idea if it would work in their rv.
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Old 06-17-2022, 12:09 PM   #17
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There is a second bedroom vent under the cabinets at the head of the bed, but it has about the same airflow as the other. Small fans to pull some air might be an interesting thing to try.

I did look to see if there was such a thing as a fan powered duct vent you could buy, but no such item exists. Nothing says you can't buy a couple of those inexpensive four inch 12V fart fans you typically see in the ceiling vent of your bathroom. Mount it just on the inside of the ceiling and over the duct hole, tap into a nearby 12V power source, and mount a small on/off switch for it on the closest wall.
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Old 07-11-2022, 02:48 PM   #18
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I have a 2021 model FLL, but we are not having issues at all.

Maybe a dumb question, is the bedroom door shut? It will help equalize the temperature if the door is kept wide open.

We keep the bedroom door open, we have good flow through our registers in the bedroom, and the bedroom is the lowest part of the coach.

We do not have any problems with the bedroom being hot.

One thing that might help: Keep the blower blowing all the time at maximum, which should help equalize the temperature throughout the coach.

I'm at a loss, because we do not have this problem. One thing is, your ducts might not be routed as well as mine. I am of the opinion that they have just been throwing these RVs together for the past couple of years now and maybe they are not all the same.

By the way, even in the mid-90s and full sunshine, our two air conditioners do fine. When we first arrive at the campsite, it does not instantly cool the camper but it is bearable if both are running.
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