12V Only Frig Question

[cousin01]

I can't imagine anyone but a first time RVer agreeing to a 12 only refrigerator. 11 amp draw is a deal killer. This has to be a cost and space saving design change. Neither of which are worth it. imho.

[BehindBars]

Originally Posted by cousin01

I can't imagine anyone but a first time RVer agreeing to a 12 only refrigerator. 11 amp draw is a deal killer. This has to be a cost and space saving design change. Neither of which are worth it. imho.

The appeal for the customer in the latest refrigerator change may the significant increase in internal capacity. Some class C refrigerators went from 6 cubic feet in last year's models to 10.7 cubic feet.

I agree that the switch to the 12 volt refrigerator is most likely for cost savings. The installation is also probably simplified, as there are no longer sidewall or roof penetrations for the refrigerator vents.

I'd guess many first time RV'ers don't have a clue whether a 12 volt refrigerator is any better or worse than a 120V/propane unit, so yes, they'll buy into it.

[cousin01]

And they will be into their third set of house batteries before they realize why.

[RedLdr1]

Originally Posted by cousin01

I can't imagine anyone but a first time RVer agreeing to a 12 only refrigerator. 11 amp draw is a deal killer. This has to be a cost and space saving design change. Neither of which are worth it. imho.

Hmm, we've had a few motor homes and trailers so I don't think I'm a first timer...

After the Magic Chef / Ever Chill unit initially cools it only needs 3 Amps to maintain temperature not 11 Amps as a constant draw. Even the basic 100W FR solar setup on our 2400Q should be able to keep the batteries charged.

I prefer the 12VDC only as it gets rid of the antiquated absorption fridge and all the issues that go with it. We've had 3 Way refrigerators before and always ran them on 12VDC whenever possible.

But how well it works will be based on how you use your RV. Since we don't boon dock I don't see any down side. And the DW is happy to have a 10.7 CF unit instead of the smaller units we have had before.

[barnbnb]

Originally Posted by 5picker

This forum and thread is all about finding an answer for the OP and documenting information about the Magic Chef/EverChill operation.

Your last post didn't help either cause.

A question was asked and he answered it. It was not off topic and he documented his experience.
Somebody needs to take a look in the mirror.
Be kind or be quiet.

[TowPro]

Originally Posted by barnbnb

Be kind or be quiet.

I have only been here since laborday and I was ready to leave because of all the "know it all's" around here that think they have the only correct answer to every post.
than I discovered if you click on somebody's name next to there post, then go down and pick the last choice "Add XXXX to your ignore list" and this place is really starting to shape up.
Just go to any Tire PSI threads and its easy to populate your ignore list

[Eric H.]

A compressor system running R134A probably works much better/cooler than an ammonia system in hot weather.

[barnbnb]

We are in between camping units and have been doing lots of comparisons.
Whatever your opinion, the 12 volt system is a cheaper option than the traditional gas/electric system. That doesn't mean it's better or worse, but 12V is the cheaper option. That is why it comes standard on some units now.
Most manufacturers will now allow you to "upgrade" to the gas/electric refrigerator by special order.
My new rig, which is yet to be determined, WILL have the gas unit.
Get what you want and love what you get!

[Dr Safety]

Originally Posted by cousin01

I can't imagine anyone but a first time RVer agreeing to a 12 only refrigerator. 11 amp draw is a deal killer. This has to be a cost and space saving design change. Neither of which are worth it. imho.

There seems to be a great deal of misinformation on the energy usage of a 12-volt compressor RV refrigerators. Compressor refrigerators are much more energy-efficient than absorption refrigerators.

From the Manufacturer and answered on e-trailer: "I spoke to my contact at Way Interglobal about the Everchill Refrigerator part # 324-000119. They informed me that upon startup and until the set temperature is reached, the unit will draw 8-9 amps. Once the set temperature is reached, it will draw around 3 amps to remain at this temperature."

A similar unit manufactured by Norcold lists the Standard amp draw at 5.7 and a setting for night mode of 3.7 amps.

To contrast this, a traditional RV absorption refrigerator operating in gas mode draws 3-4 amps to operate the 12-volt control board.

[Papadave]

It takes a while to digest the price but Engel makes a 12v fridge freeze lineup that I use in my boat, TT, and in the house during storms. I get 36 hours run time on one group 27 battery. The secret is a sawafuji swing motor compressor. Engel licenses the technology to Norcold perhaps others. I would be concerned about a Chinese copy. Stories online of buying a used Engel in 1980 that is still running and these are prospectors in the outback. Ruggedized? Yep. The older ones do draw more power. New ones you see numbers from 1-4 amps. Here is a starting point.
https://www.engelcoolers.com/shop/12...-freezers.html

[rdm757]

Originally Posted by cousin01

I can't imagine anyone but a first time RVer agreeing to a 12 only refrigerator. 11 amp draw is a deal killer. This has to be a cost and space saving design change. Neither of which are worth it. imho.

Well, it wouldn’t work for me as I do a fair amount of dry camping, but I think there are a lot of rv’ers that only camp with hookups. This type of fridge is probably a very good option for anyone who doesn’t plan to dry camp.

[Jimhinkle]

Originally Posted by High Desert

A friend of mine just purchased a new 2020 Forester MBS 2401W and called me tonight with a question I could not answer, as having previously owned a 2017 Sprinter. His unit has the 12V only Magic Chef frig, and he cannot find a "on / off" switch anywhere. Is there any way to turn this unit off without completely cutting power to the coach? I really wasn't aware that the move was towards 12V only units now. Thx

We have a 2020 Coachman and had the same question. The only way to turn ours off is turn the battery switch to off while in storage, or pull out the fuse.

[FFred]

"Compressor refrigerators are much more energy-efficient than absorption refrigerators. "

Yes and no, depends how you measure energy.

The propane fridges do use more BTU, but there is so much energy in a 15 lb bottle most folks think a bottle at abut a buck a day is a genuine bargain .

A DC with a modern computer compressor uses about half the 12 energy required to heat the 12v element , but the resistance element only on when plugged in , or driving with the alt making electric.

I doubt seriously a modern computer board takes 3 or 4 amps to keep it self alive , perhaps when lighting the gas for 15 seconds.

If that draw is too large the earlier style gas units use a spark system , no electric used. You just push the button after leveling and the fridge will operate on its internal thermostat , ice cream like a rock.

[Dr Safety]

Originally Posted by FFred

"Compressor refrigerators are much more energy-efficient than absorption refrigerators. "

Yes and no, depends how you measure energy.

The propane fridges do use more BTU, but there is so much energy in a 15 lb bottle most folks think a bottle at abut a buck a day is a genuine bargain .

A DC with a modern computer compressor uses about half the 12 energy required to heat the 12v element , but the resistance element only on when plugged in , or driving with the alt making electric.

I doubt seriously a modern computer board takes 3 or 4 amps to keep it self alive , perhaps when lighting the gas for 15 seconds.

If that draw is too large the earlier style gas units use a spark system , no electric used. You just push the button after leveling and the fridge will operate on its internal thermostat , ice cream like a rock.

Yes you are correct I used a source that overstated the Amp draw 3-4 amps. I have since found the draw from other sources as 0.5 to 1.8 amps.

However, I will stand by my comment that compressor refrigerators are more energy efficient when both are plugged in. A typical RV absorption refrigerator uses 600 to 800 watts on startup and 150 to 200 watts to run. The 12-volt compressor refrigerator referenced above use between 36 and 70 Watts to run with 120 watts on startup. Your point on running on propane and electrical usage is well taken.

I guess I was trying to point out that DC compressor refrigerator don't draw 11 amps all the time and cause batteries die quickly. They can and have been used effectively especially in the boating world as pointed out above.

[TowPro]

and my point is if you have a good amount of solar, you can power this 12v refreg for less cost than propane when off the grid

[Dr Safety]

Originally Posted by TowPro

and my point is if you have a good amount of solar, you can power this 12v refreg for less cost than propane when off the grid

Absolutely correct. They are not that much of an energy consumer as some think.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by TowPro

and my point is if you have a good amount of solar, you can power this 12v refreg for less cost than propane when off the grid

But be prepared to eat all your perishable food first or go home early if you get a couple of overcast days in a row.

Not knocking solar. Just thinking about its limitations.

[FFred]

"But be prepared to eat all your perishable food first or go home early if you get a couple of overcast days in a row.

Not knocking solar. Just thinking about its limitations."

Most folks choose to park in the shade solar looses big time under a tree!

[tomkatb]

Depends a lot on where you live and camp.

East of the Rockies ac is a need. Trees are everywhere. And it rains a lot.

[TowPro]

When we boondock its along a beach area which are not known for trees.