Exterior 110 volt outlet replacement

[OREddie]

Boy, I think I've really messed up. I'm starting here in case the subject outlet is unique to the 2401WS or similar and will move to another electrical forum if moderators think appropriate.

I misjudged a turn into a parking space and struck an adjacent truck with the exterior outlet cover on my 2017 2401WS MBS. The impact pretty much ripped the outlet cover off flush with the body (and damaged one hinge on the propane access door but it still functions).

Before removing the outlet I purchased another, much more elegant and with a lower profile cover.

I do a bit of electrical work around the house but I wasn't prepared for what I found under the damaged outlet. Pictures should follow.

There were two lines of Romex-type wire, black, white and ground in each entering the outlet from the rear of the rig and a single line towards the front of the rig, a total of nine wires, 6 from the rear and 2 from the front, wedged into V-shaped connectors

There was a cover over the wiring on the back damaged outlet that I pried loose. In the process three wires (black, white and ground) came loose from outlet. It appears that the wires were simply laid into the V-shaped connectors and that installing the plastic cover wedged them down to make contact. No wires were stripped back.

I searched RS, the only identifier on the damaged outlet but can't find anything like it.

The replacement outlet has a single ground and two connecting screws on each side.

My rig's winterized so I'm not in any rush to get this fixed. If need be I'll cap all the wires before removing the batteries for the winter.

Probably TMI and verbose but any guidance would be much appreciated



https://fasteddie.smugmug.com/RV-Ele...utlet/n-tgSZKr

[cboss]

How about just connecting all the like wires and add a new piece of Romex from the connections to the new socket you install. That way the AC run will continue up or down stream and you will have a better connection than those "v things" to your new outlet.

[DaveJordan]

It appears to me that your new outlet can handle a bunch of connections. There are 4 holes inboard of the screws on each side of the back of the outlet. I think these are for connecting wires by first stripping them to the length indicated by the "strip guage"s, also on the back of the outlet. Once stripped, each wire should be forced into an appropriate hole (using something like needle nose pliers) until the insulation butts up against the plastic of the outlet. This should allow you to connect four wires on each side...

I think the grounds could be connected using a wire nut.

Note that I'm not absolutely certain of this. A couple of things I'm not sure of... First, the holes in the outlet are intended for a particular wire gauge. It looks like they'll probably work, but I can't be sure. Second, most devices with this type of push-in connection have some mechanism to release the wires. I don't see that here, but it's possible that half of the holes are actually spots where you can push in to release the wires in the other holes. Again, I don't think so, but I don't know. It would be helpful to have some sort of reference to the new outlet...

Dave

[JLeising]

From your description, original may be something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Group...s%2C165&sr=8-7

May be hard to fit a “normal” outlet - these are pretty thin.

FYI, Jim

[Bob K4TAX]

Please don't use the stab-in or push-in connections. They WILL eventually cause issues. The old fashion "wire hooked clockwise" under the screw will be best.

If necessary bundle up all the black wires, add a black pigtail, and secure all with a wire nut. Bundle up all the white wires, add a pigtail, and secure with a wire nut. Likewise for the green wires. The green pigtail goes to the green screw on the new outlet, the white pigtail goes to the white screw, and the black pigtail goes to the brass screw. Then cram it all back into the box and install the new receptacle and cover.

Those other lines go to other outlets in the trailer so the electrical path will need to be kept intact.

I don't like the stab-in applications nor the V connections. They will cause problems in the future. I've had to replace every switch and every outlet here in the house. They used the stab-in connection and every one of them has heated or become loose I'm old fashion and believe the wire under the screw is best.

Bob

[Larry-NC]

The replies above are at best misleading and better-described as incorrect.

RVs do not use the standard convenience outlets commonly found in household situations. The reason is that the thin walls (2x2 metal or pine studs) do not permit the use of a junction box with sufficient depth. Electrical codes specify the cubic inches required for the number of conductors of each wire gauge, in this case nine AWG 14 conductors. The wall is not deep enough for this many conductors. You cannot use regular outlets with screw terminals. (That's why the GFCI outlet is on a box extender sticking out of the wall.)

Instead, a special kind of outlet called Self-Contained-Device (SCD) is used. RV codes permit this device to be installed directly into the wall with no junction box. Here are the specifications.

Usually, one or two cables are installed directly into the SCD outlet. Professionals use a tool (see page 17 of this specification) which uses a special tool and die to press all the conductors into the outlet. This tool costs several hundred dollars. You can get a tool on Amazon or eBay for $30-40 that sets one conductor at a time if used carefully. You can also get the SCD outlet from Amazon or eBay.

In your (unusual) case, you have three cables. They used Wago connectors (approved for use directly in the wall without a junction box, I think) to create pigtails to go to the SCD outlet. The Wago connectors can accept multiple conductors and can release the conductors when needed.

It's not clear from your description what was damaged--just the cover or the cover and outlet. If it's just the cover, put on a new cover (be sure to use LOTS of butyl tape under it to prevent water entry). If the outlet is damaged, pry off the cover, photograph the outlet so you know where black, white, and bare conductors go, and release the three pigtails, then use the one-conductor tool to set the three pigtails in the new outlet, and replace the cover. You may need to use a C-clamp and two boards to set the back piece onto the outlet. Make a sandwich of the outlet between two boards to distribute the clamping force.