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Old 06-14-2021, 12:36 PM   #1
oreddie
 
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Full Slide Leveling Process

Greetings -

We've had our Forester 2401WS (full-length slideout) for three seasons now. One set-up issue often creates a bit of stress for my spouse so wondered if members with similar models have a better system, auto leveling jacks notwithstanding.

We park, eyeball the site, and pick what looks the most level, trying to keep the slideout side higher than the other. The slide is extended and I use an electronic level connected to my phone to determine where and how much to lift.

The slide comes back in, leveling blocks are placed accordingly and the rig is driven up onto them. Then the slide is extended and level checked again.

7 out of 10 times this brings acceptable results but the stress comes from the remaining 3 where several attempts are made.

Any thoughts? Thanks!
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Old 06-14-2021, 01:30 PM   #2
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KISS, keep it simple Sam.

Pull up and check level.

Put blocks down so that you're just a tad bit high on the slide side and get up on them.

Extend slide.

Camp.

You'll never get it 100%. Keep it close and don't stress about it.
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Old 06-14-2021, 01:49 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
KISS, keep it simple Sam.

Pull up and check level.

Put blocks down so that you're just a tad bit high on the slide side and get up on them.

Extend slide.

Camp.

You'll never get it 100%. Keep it close and don't stress about it.
I was just going to say the exact same thing. Extend the slide once. Our floor plan in our Sunseeker 2430S is exactly the same as the Forester 2401WS. Close to level and the bathroom door doesn’t slam.
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Old 06-14-2021, 01:55 PM   #4
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Get a LevelMatePro and install that. You need to go set it up first, then once you have saved the info, the app will tell you what you need to do to get level.

To set it up, park some place and get the rig as level as you like with the slide(s) out. Then retract the slide(s) and "Set Level" in the app. This way you can get close to level with the slide(s) in and then when you put the slide(s) out you will be actually level. The app will say you are not but only because you compensated for the slide(s) already.
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Old 06-15-2021, 01:14 PM   #5
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Our current fiver has a Lippert 4 point auto leveling system. My previous trailer was manual. I got the new one with levelers because I liked the idea of pressing a button and watching the trailer level itself. Until I read the instructions, the first of which is "park the trailer on level ground." Seems to negate the idea of auto leveling. Anyway, leveling a trailer seems to be one of the few situations in which close is good enough. The older RV refrigerators used to be almost perfectly level to work properly, but the new ones are much better. As others have said: don't sweat the small stuff. I've found a wee dram can ease the stress.
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Old 06-15-2021, 01:47 PM   #6
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I level our 5th wheel the old fashion way. I back into where the trailer will sit, check the bubble level mounted on front end of trailer, determine which side needs to come up and how many one inch thick boards I need for both wheel & tires, either pull forward or back up, place boards on ground and position trailer on top of boards. I then drop the landing gear, unhook truck and pull out. Level fore & aft by using the landing gear. Hook electric, water and sewage up, go inside turn AC on and extend the two slides. If I am within one bubble of being perfect, then I am a happy camper, if it is two bubbles off, then I have a cold one and then say to hell with it.
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Old 06-15-2021, 02:21 PM   #7
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My Process

Back in the TT, enable the WoBLR set camper is level side to side, unhook, set camper is level front to back. Set stab jack's and extend slides. Keep it easy, just camping.
I'm more particular then the DW.
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Old 06-15-2021, 02:40 PM   #8
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My only real suggestion is to stop playing with your phone and mount some Hopkins levels on the rig where it's easy to see them.
https://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-085...3784198&sr=8-3

You say you have auto-leveling...very nice...so the Hopkins levels should only have to confirm that the coach is level...presumably the auto leveling system has its own built in sensors. BUT, optical illusions are plentiful in the wild, so the Hopkins levels will give you peace of mind that things are right, and if you can manually tweak the levelers, you can dial it it as needed based on the readings from the Hopkins levels.

(I was just on a lake-side site that visually appeared to be tilted side-to-side toward the lake, and the nose of the rig appeared to be substantially nose down. That was the illusion. In reality, the site was dead level side-to-side, and my tongue only needed to come up about 4 inches more than when parked on a dead level driveway. In other words, my eyes deceived me and saw slopes that weren't there, but the Hopkins levels can't be fooled.

My prejudice is that some phone app can be fooled as well, or you holding the phone can introduce errors. Install the Hopkins on a dead level site...or when your rig is dead level as confirmed by a 4' carpenter's framing level. Then all you have to do is apply one on the curb side so the bubble is exactly in the middle and one on the forward side of the coach's short stub wall right behind the cab...also on the curb side. Keep them close together, and your wife can read them and dial you in. No guess work, and she'll be completely confident in the setup.

Also, be sure to put down jack pads under your leveling jacks so the jacks don't sink in to the soil over time. If you're on pavement, terrific, but even crushed stone (popular on sites for drainage) can sink under the load of over 11,000 pounds distributed on 4 tiny leveling jack pads. Pads spread the load a bit more and keep you from sinking. https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=levelin...f=nb_sb_noss_2

If you get the coach level, then the slide will function as designed...as will the fridge. And, while leveling is important for the proper functioning of the slide, where it really counts is with a 2-way fridge. They can be off a few degrees, but they function best when level.

From there,the slide will take care of itself...as designed.
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Old 06-15-2021, 02:56 PM   #9
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You should get some of those stick on levels that go on the exterior of the trailer. You go through the leveling process once you get it close, and then you move the level little bit to make it look right. Your wife will never know the difference. Ive been doing that for 48 years and shes never caught onI do however re-check the levels periodically and tweak them so if they are correct.
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Old 06-15-2021, 07:23 PM   #10
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Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. We don't have an auto-level system. I use Levelmate pro to determine where and how much to add leveling blocks after extending the slide.

I like the suggestion to KISS it (thanks for replacing the second "S" with Sam).
That will be my go-to for our upcoming 20-day trip. I do wonder, however, how much off-level is ok with the 'fridge.

For those with auto levelers tho, I see they weigh in at about 200#. Is the loss of CCC worth it? I suspect so and also wonder if they are owner installable. Heaven would be parking and pushing a button to level it and I think $3k would be worth it. My spouse just might agree.
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Old 06-15-2021, 08:44 PM   #11
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We have the same problem with our Windjammer - one side has the slide-outs. When we first got the trailer, I moved the slide-out to the extended position and leveled the trailer both front to back and side to side. Once it was level, I noted on the bubble level (I have an adjustable one.) where it was and then I pulled in the slides making the trailer off level. I then adjusted the level to show level at that point. Now, when I set up I just level the trailer to the offset leveler and when I slide out the slides the trailer levels out. It has worked for 9 seasons. I use my i-Phone to check it and it usually hits it on the money every time.
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Old 06-15-2021, 08:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OREddie View Post
Thanks for the replies. We don't have an auto-level system. I use Levelmate pro to determine where and how much to add leveling blocks after extending the slide.
This is why you level the unit with the slide out. Then close up your rig and then "set level" in the levelmatepro. This way you don't need to open up and level. Its the same process and ProfChuck describes below but only digitally.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OREddie View Post
That will be my go-to for our upcoming 20-day trip. I do wonder, however, how much off-level is ok with the 'fridge.
3 degrees for adsorption fridges. Just watched a Dometic guy describe it on a TV show. If you are comfortable in the rig, even if unlevel, the fridge will be fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ProfChuck View Post
We have the same problem with our Windjammer - one side has the slide-outs. When we first got the trailer, I moved the slide-out to the extended position and leveled the trailer both front to back and side to side. Once it was level, I noted on the bubble level (I have an adjustable one.) where it was and then I pulled in the slides making the trailer off level. I then adjusted the level to show level at that point. Now, when I set up I just level the trailer to the offset leveler and when I slide out the slides the trailer levels out. It has worked for 9 seasons. I use my i-Phone to check it and it usually hits it on the money every time.
This is the same as "faking" process you can do with the levelmatepro. Good description.
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