Heat Pump

[OREddie]

We're having a somewhat typical central Oregon Fall; a couple really cold (less than 25F) nights, above freezing days that are followed by a week of above freezing nights and downright pleasant daytime temps.

I'd rather not winterize right now; got some warranty work to get done next week, so I'm keeping the coach warm inside and tank heaters on.

I'm wondering how low the outside air temp can go before the heat pump can no longer warm the inside. Or should I just use the propane fueled furnace to be safe?

Ed
2017 2401WS MBS

[Rich.M]

The propane heat ducts pass thru many of same passages as your water and drain lines. I would heat with the propane heater when temps go below freezing and reserve the heat pump for more moderate weather.

[Rkloud9]

Originally Posted by Rich.M

The propane heat ducts pass thru many of same passages as your water and drain lines. I would heat with the propane heater when temps go below freezing and reserve the heat pump for more moderate weather.

Regarding the heat pump, it delivers warm air when the outside temps are above mid 40's. But the furnace is much more effective, as the multiple ducts are near the floor, instead of the heat pump's ceiling delivery. Also, the furnace is considerably quieter. And, as Rich says, the plumbing gets more heat from the furnace. On my SunSeeker, the fresh water tank has a shroud under it, with a heat duct from the furnace sending warm air all around the tank. The electric tank warmers are only on the black and gray tanks. I think the most vulnerable spot for freezing is the outside shower. The best you can do is get the water out of it and refrain from using it. I have stuffed insulation around it, which hopefully helps. The next time I winterize using antifreeze, I plan to leave the pink stuff in that line and stop using it.

Good luck out there!

Bob & Cynthia
2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400w

[FFred]

Heat pumps work by "air cond" the exterior and pumping the heat taken into your RV.

The hassle is about 40F the cooling fins outside will get covered with condensation , ice up, and stop the unit from working.

A std 120v heater , I prefer the big oil filled that look like a radiator , are very reliable and have thermostats.

They are not as efficient in turning electric into heat , but they stay temperate enough not to cause a fire and work regardless of the interior temperature.

Use one , but remember much of the water system is NOT inside the RV , so there will be zero protection for stuff outside , under the unit.

[dukeboone]

Ed, I agree with everything said so far. Below 40F the heat pump is inefficient, better to use the propane heater, or if plugged into shore power use a 110v portable heater of some sort. As a side note, I think I saw you yesterday morning on Mt Washington Dr. Could that have been you? Consequently I was headed the opposite direction to pick up mine for a quick trip up to Hood River.

[OREddie]

Many thanks. I will stick with the propane heater in these few early below freezing nights and turn the tank heater on as well. I've only one more trip scheduled; have to drive 3 hours west for a Sprinter tech to replace driver's door lock. Temperatures there will be moderate and moderate here later this week so I've got a big window to winterize.