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Old 06-20-2020, 09:18 AM   #1
2018 Sunseeker 2400W MBS
 
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MBS Alloy Wheel Upgrade - Or New Wheel Sims?

Have a 2018 MBS Sunseeker 2400W with about 13K miles and we love it so far! However, had to ditch the pretty chrome OEM wheel simulators (i.e., hubcaps) early on due to incessant (and embarrassing!) rattling and clanking noises. As many already know, our stock wheel sims use a number of little claw-type grippers around the edge that grab onto the wheel rim, but they quickly become loose and noisy, then often fail altogether causing outright loss of the wheel sim somewhere along the side of the road. Of course, I took the advice of others and used the stainless steel tie wraps to prevent loss, but those did nothing to lessen the annoying rattling noises of the loose clips. So, I'm currently running with naked steel wheels. Not the most elegant solution, but completely FREE of noise! So, I've recently come across two possible solutions...

First, the often recommended switch to aluminum wheels - specifically Alcoas, which are attractive but PRICEY (at least $2K per set)! Strangely, it seems Alcoa has had a monopoly on the Sprinter 3500 dually chassis for quite some time. However, I recently ran across a new alloy wheel offering from TheSprinterStore called the Ultra Hunter 003 (avail in chrome finish or gloss black). Wondering if anyone has had any experience with them? Apparently, the wheels are a bit wider (16x6.0 vs the Alcoa 16x5.5), but have an impressive look to them and are cheaper than the Alcoas at about $1499 for a set of four plus the special lug nuts they require (stock steel inners are still run on the back). Here's the link for reference:

https://www.sprinterstore.com/produc...dually-wheels/

Sure seems like an attractive, less expensive, option to the Alcoas - plus does away with the annoying wheel sims altogether!

Option 2, while less expensive that an alloy upgrade, still keeps me tied to the uncertainty of chrome wheel sims - albeit with a supposedly improved retention system. I've heard there may be a wheel sim option that actually "bolts on," but I have yet to find a vendor that offers a set for the wheels on our later model 3500s with duallies. That said, the set I'm considering from Eagle Industries uses a complete 360-degree claw-type grip system that they say is vastly superior to the OEM wheels sims. In fact, they say they've never heard of a reported loss or noise problem attributed to their wheel sims. Best of all, the price for a set of four is less than $200 (see the link below)!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-SPRINTER...53.m1438.l2649

So, what say the older, wiser heads around the table? Anybody got firsthand experience or supportable opinions about either of these options (or possible alternatives)? Fire when ready, Gridley! THANKS!
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Old 06-20-2020, 10:25 AM   #2
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I saw these on Ebay but it only shows the fronts, you could contact the seller to see if rears are available.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Method-MR90...MAAOSwKx9ezZL0

Mine came with HiSpec brand wheels from the factory so that may be another option.
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Old 06-20-2020, 10:33 AM   #3
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If they are anything like the polished aluminum rims ght came on my 2014 GMC HD, which were clear coated, by the time they were 2+ years old , gmc replaced them from water under the clearcoat. And this set doing the same thing
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Old 06-21-2020, 04:57 PM   #4
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Another option is to have the M-B wheels powder coated. Then they would look good and not require any wheel simulators. I'm considering that instead of Alcoas as it would be less than half the price.
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Old 06-22-2020, 01:19 PM   #5
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We have a 2016 2400R and we love it. I thought I was hearing the clanking so many of us complain about, but...it turns out that it was just the plastic valve stem extenders banging around. I placed a short piece of irrigation rubber I happened to have around and slipped that over the plastic valve stem extenders. No more noise at all. Problem solved for about 10 cents! 24,000 miles and no problem with the stock simulators. In fact they are pretty hard to get on and off.
Good Luck.
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Old 06-22-2020, 02:41 PM   #6
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I had the same noise problem on the OEM simulators on my MBS 2401R. Just received new simulators made by RWC (real wheels corp). They use a unique system to engage the steel wheels - steel fingers that hook through the round holes in the steel wheels and are tensioned by screws that you tighten securely. These simulators are designed to look like polished aluminum wheels. The finish is beautiful! Reasonably priced, check them out at www.realwheels.com.
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Old 06-23-2020, 12:03 PM   #7
2018 Sunseeker 2400W MBS
 
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Thanks for the link to RWC and their unique j-hook (frt) & lug nut (rear) retention system - definitely sounds like another option to consider. May I ask what vendor source you used and about what the set of 4 sims cost? Saw no prices listed at RWC and most of the recommended dealers mentioned on the RWC website seemed to cater to the big rigs (saw none that listed Sprinter 3500 sims). THANKS!
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Old 06-23-2020, 01:42 PM   #8
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Just search for "rwc RW1602-18SAK". Several dealers will be found. Price appears to be around $300, depending on dealer and options, etc. Looking at some of the dealer web pages I wasn't completely certain what they were including, so I'd definitely call the dealer before ordering to be sure of what you're getting and to make sure they fit your wheels.

By the way, a couple of the web sites I saw referenced Dodge or Freightliner. Sprinters used to be sold under both of those brands, but the wheels should be the same...

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Old 06-23-2020, 06:14 PM   #9
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eurocampers.com. $276.00 plus $24.90 shipping - $300.90 total. Shipped from the factory in Illinois. hard to believe, but American Made!
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Old 09-05-2020, 12:17 PM   #10
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Eagle Installed?

Has anyone installed the Eagle simulators noted in this thread? I've tried without success both front and back; can't get the entire edge in even with firm strikes with a mallet.
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Old 09-05-2020, 04:15 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OREddie View Post
Has anyone installed the Eagle simulators noted in this thread? I've tried without success both front and back; can't get the entire edge in even with firm strikes with a mallet.
Not sure, but the wheel balance weight location might be the problem. Turn your wheel covers so the latch parts are not over the weights.
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Old 09-07-2020, 01:58 PM   #12
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Latch Parts

Thanks for responding. These simulators have claw-like clamps around the entire perimeter of the insertion side. I checked to see if the wheel balance weights might interfere but it doesn't seem so.

I managed to get a front cover on by inserting one side and beating the remaining clamps into place with a screwdriver and mallet but I don't think that's what the maker had in mind.

The instructions refer to the alignment of a Hand Hole but I don't know what that is. I've reached out to the seller for help and will share if I get a response.
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Old 10-26-2020, 02:09 PM   #13
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I used a 4 pound rubber mallet to engage my replacement , starting with one side and working my way around the edge. It takes some good pounding to get the "claws" to engage but they will go. Note that the claws engage INSIDE of the rim edge so tire weights are not a problem.

My replacement sim came without any logo in the center and the other wheel has a geometric design in the 3 inch flat area in the center. Anyone have an idea where decals can be obtained?
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Old 10-27-2020, 04:47 PM   #14
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On my 16 24R I used the stainless wire ties and have no problems. Keep several onboard in case if an issue with tire but so far so good.
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Old 10-28-2020, 11:29 AM   #15
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I contacted the seller wh responded promptly and suggested spraying WD40 on the rim and cover edge. That didn't work but I think MikeGJax had the answer - wheel weight position.

I cut several of the clips of the cover, positioned that part over the wheel weight, and went to work with the mallet. That did the trick and they look sharp; got 1k miles on them without any issues.

One caveat, however. On one I inadvertently covered a valve extender on a rear wheel. Getting the cover off to reposition it was very difficult.
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