Replacing Waste Valves On A W

[halbright]

So, what is the secret to removing the waste valves on a W? The valves are between the tanks and I don't see how to get enough gap to remove a valve or seals. My grey valve is leaking. I use a twist on valve on the end of the long pipe so I am able to use the RV, but I really need to replace that valve.

[Rkloud9]

Originally Posted by hfalbright

So, what is the secret to removing the waste valves on a W? The valves are between the tanks and I don't see how to get enough gap to remove a valve or seals. My grey valve is leaking. I use a twist on valve on the end of the long pipe so I am able to use the RV, but I really need to replace that valve.

I too am interested in this, as, sadly, it is the black valve on my W that is leaking.

[dogpa]

I have an R and my black tank valve has always leaked and warranty says "they could not make it leak" I am interested in any shortcuts also.

[HomeOnWheels]

I'm sorry to hear the trouble, all too familiar to me - I had leak once with grey and twice with black. After I had them fixed under warranty, I decided to install a twist-on valve just in case. So here is a temporary solution for now while you are getting it fixed:
Valterra T58 Twist-On Waste Valve

[halbright]

Originally Posted by HomeOnWheels

I'm sorry to hear the trouble, all too familiar to me - I had leak once with grey and twice with black. After I had them fixed under warranty, I decided to install a twist-on valve just in case. So here is a temporary solution for now while you are getting it fixed:
Valterra T58 Twist-On Waste Valve

How did you get them fixed? If it involved replacing seals or valves, then they had to be removed and reinstalled. I hope you are talking about a W because that is the subject of this thread. The challenge on a W is that the valves are located between the tanks and there is no obvious way to get enough separation to remove and reinstall the valves. Surely​, someone has replaced one of these valves by now. How did you do it?

[FFred]

Should you get it removed you might consider an upgrade to the style valves used on bus conversions.

These can be rebuilt in place easily and rapidly.

Google Dupree valves

[HomeOnWheels]

Originally Posted by hfalbright

How did you get them fixed? If it involved replacing seals or valves, then they had to be removed and reinstalled. I hope you are talking about a W because that is the subject of this thread. The challenge on a W is that the valves are located between the tanks and there is no obvious way to get enough separation to remove and reinstall the valves. Surely​, someone has replaced one of these valves by now. How did you do it?

Dealer did it for me under warranty. I don't know how they did it. I was just offering a temporary solution so you can still use your RV in the meantime.

[halbright]

Originally Posted by HomeOnWheels

Dealer did it for me under warranty. I don't know how they did it. I was just offering a temporary solution so you can still use your RV in the meantime.

As noted in the original post, I am using a twist on valve. I may permanently install one on the end of that pipe as a safeguard against any leakage even after replacing the valves.

[halbright]

Valves And Cables Replaced

After enduring difficult to operate and leaking waste valves for two years, I finally replaced everything. It is not easy to get those valves out of a W as there is no space for anything to move. I was able to remove the waste valves by taking out all of the bolts on both valves, dropping the drain pipe that crosses beneath the RV, wiggling and twisting until the Y pipe, cross pipe and valves came free. To insert the new seals and valves, I cut a 1/2 inch section out of the 2 inch pipe leading into the gray valve and inserted a rubber connector. This gave me enough room to insert the new seals and valves and put everything back together.

I replaced the valves with Valtera Bladex valves. I replaced the cables with Barker Auto-drain electric actuators. Now, to open or close a valve, I simply press a switch. The switches are located in the compartment where the cable handles were. It was necessary to extend the wires between the switches and the actuators in order to reach all the way across the RV.

This was a non-trivial upgrade. I spent 10 to 12 hours over two days to complete all of the plumbing and wiring. Some of this time was naturally a result of this being the first time doing this. If I had to do it again, it would probably take half of that.

Along the way, I discovered the root cause of my original gray valve problem. During initial assembly, there was too much glue on the pieces making up the connection between the tank and the Y pipe. Excess glue got on the lip where the valve seals are to seat. This prevented the seal from seating properly (resulting in a leak) and caused the valve to bind (resulting in cable issues).

Testing verified that both valves now work as they should. I plan to keep the extra valve on the cap end of the drain pipe as insurance against any future valve issues. No more surprise baths when removing the drain cap!

[Rkloud9]

Originally Posted by hfalbright

Valves And Cables Replaced

After enduring difficult to operate and leaking waste valves for two years, I finally replaced everything. It is not easy to get those valves out of a W as there is no space for anything to move. I was able to remove the waste valves by taking out all of the bolts on both valves, dropping the drain pipe that crosses beneath the RV, wiggling and twisting until the Y pipe, cross pipe and valves came free. To insert the new seals and valves, I cut a 1/2 inch section out of the 2 inch pipe leading into the gray valve and inserted a rubber connector. This gave me enough room to insert the new seals and valves and put everything back together.

I replaced the valves with Valtera Bladex valves. I replaced the cables with Barker Auto-drain electric actuators. Now, to open or close a valve, I simply press a switch. The switches are located in the compartment where the cable handles were. It was necessary to extend the wires between the switches and the actuators in order to reach all the way across the RV.

This was a non-trivial upgrade. I spent 10 to 12 hours over two days to complete all of the plumbing and wiring. Some of this time was naturally a result of this being the first time doing this. If I had to do it again, it would probably take half of that.

Along the way, I discovered the root cause of my original gray valve problem. During initial assembly, there was too much glue on the pieces making up the connection between the tank and the Y pipe. Excess glue got on the lip where the valve seals are to seat. This prevented the seal from seating properly (resulting in a leak) and caused the valve to bind (resulting in cable issues).

Testing verified that both valves now work as they should. I plan to keep the extra valve on the cap end of the drain pipe as insurance against any future valve issues. No more surprise baths when removing the drain cap!

Thanks for the update! It would be cool if you could snap a photo of the finished product, although you probably never want to go under there again! My black valve leaks, and the already "fun" task of dumping is further enhanced with this condition.

Somewhere in the first 10000 miles something on the road pushed up the final drain pipe up against the genny exhaust pipe, which got hot enough to melt partially through the drain pipe... I figure that will have to be replaced, so I can then tackle fixing the leaky valve.

Happy travels!

Bob & Cynthia
2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400W
... on the road, East Coast and Canada.

[halbright]

Here are some photos of the installation of the new electric Auto-Drain waste valve actuators, waste valves, and rubber connector for the grey tank.

View from the outside:

View from inside/underside - Foam not yet replaced:

Side/underside view of waste valves and rubber connector:

View from Rear/underside of waste valves and rubber connector:

Side view of permanently installed "Safety Valve":

Rear underside view of permanently installed "Safety Valve":

[Polariste]

Real nice job, very clean!

[imerp]

had same problem for first 18 months of ownership.
At dealer for 4 times with hard to close cables and grey tank valve leaking.
Got into it last week with leaking grey valve.
both grey and black valves very difficult to move .
I finally cut out a quarter inch out of the 1 1/2 inch grey pipe that came from the tank. It appeared that when the tank /valves were ordered installed the assembly compressed the seals against the valve. the rubber seal rubbing against the valve caused a lot of friction, making the valves impossible to close.
I cut a 2inch long rubber jointer in half and used two pipe clamps that came with the jointer to join and seal.
The piece removed allows the valves to be easily removed and when reinstalled eliminate any compressive pressure on the valves and seals.
Works perfectly now.
I also cut the cable so they run straight from the exterior to the valve.
When removing the cables, one had two 90 deg bends where the wire cable attached to the valve, reducing the pressure that could be applied to the valves. Straightened the cable and cut to length. Probably have to instal nes cable and seals but all is working now after a lot of frustration.

[bob dirt]

hfalbright, that's a nice idea. In case of an electrical failure, can you open the new valves manually?

[halbright]

Originally Posted by bob dirt

hfalbright, that's a nice idea. In case of an electrical failure, can you open the new valves manually?

To operate the valve manually, you must remove two bolts. Not the most convenient, but not a big deal. I will just be certain to have the correct wrenches on board, just in case.

[fishheads]

Looks good, Have ordered the Valterra E85-5 electric valve assembly. Where did you attach the +12VDC power cable?

[FFred]

." Where did you attach the +12VDC power cable?"

I would install a key switch and power it with that.


Think of the fun if the valve switch has a 1 - 500 chance of being accidentally thrown!

[halbright]

The stabilizer jacks have a direct electric feed from the house batteries. I attached the hot wire for the valves to that. It's in the pump housing assembly near the rear axle. For the ground, I used one of the bolts that hold the frame extension to the chassis. That gave me good solid connections on both positive and ground. Each valve has its own switch and fuse. There is no danger of them being accidentally activated.

[halbright]

I think there is a greater chance of one of the valves leaking than of one of them being accidentally activated. That's why I installed the manually operated valve at the end of the long cross pipe. That ensures that you don't get a surprise nasty bath regardless of what happens upstream.

[fishheads]

Originally Posted by halbright

The stabilizer jacks have a direct electric feed from the house batteries. I attached the hot wire for the valves to that. It's in the pump housing assembly near the rear axle. For the ground, I used one of the bolts that hold the frame extension to the chassis. That gave me good solid connections on both positive and ground. Each valve has its own switch and fuse. There is no danger of them being accidentally activated.

Thanks for the info!