sticky grey/black tank valves

[gp2down]

I have a 2016 MBS 2401W
Finally got tired of pulling a muscle trying to open/close tank valves, so I bought new ones. To make a long story short (after hours on my back under the rig, and a $500 payment to a RV home service guy) Here is my advice. Your valves are probably OK...mine were. But once I got the old ones removed, took an act of God (and the RV guy) to get the new ones installed...just not enough room in the hard pipe setup between the tanks. But the real problem was the cables, which were installed 2 feet too long at the factory...Shame on you, Forest River!!! Once I shortened the cables to take out the curves in them, problem solved! Valves now easily open and close. Whoever designed the plumbing/cable setup ought to be fired! Of course, my dealer wouldn't touch it.

[SeaDog]

You are correct, that same valve setup probably fits 15 different models across the line of products. To tailor it to your rig would affect the bottom line (the reason for most things like that). JMHO

[River.Rat]

So the question is... HOW do you shorten the cables, do you need to remove the valves to do so?

[gp2down]

By ALL means don't remove the valves. The cables are easily removed from the valves by loosening the allen screw at the valve. Then remove the whole cable assembly at the handle box (nuts removed on the underside) I measured and cut with a Dremel tool in my shop, then reinstalled. Good luck

[River.Rat]

Thanks for the explanation, sounds simple!

I too have the same problem, trying to open/close the valves is difficult, I'll see if I get the same results you did.

[Jack350]

I had the same issue with the black tank valve. It was a longer run than the gray valve that was working ok. Decided to replace the black valve with the electric motor unit from Valterra. It now opens or closes in 1.5 seconds and seems to be a good solution. Fought with the cable, that was really long for the past couple of years. Hope this will remove this issue for awhile.

[Dave S]

I have the same problem on my 2018 Sunseeker MBs. Drilled a hole in the gate valve as seen on utube and sprayed lubricant. This helped some but I think, like you said, the extra-long cable is the real culprit. Can you adjust length from the handle end? Or does the cable need to come off of the valve end?

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by Dave S

I have the same problem on my 2018 Sunseeker MBs. Drilled a hole in the gate valve as seen on utube and sprayed lubricant. This helped some but I think, like you said, the extra-long cable is the real culprit. Can you adjust length from the handle end? Or does the cable need to come off of the valve end?

On my too long cables they had either coiled the excess too tightly or routed them where they had a kink. I rerouted them and they have worked smoothly for almost 10 years now.

[robnotto]

Originally Posted by gp2down

By ALL means don't remove the valves. The cables are easily removed from the valves by loosening the allen screw at the valve. Then remove the whole cable assembly at the handle box (nuts removed on the underside) I measured and cut with a Dremel tool in my shop, then reinstalled. Good luck

I have a similar issue. Looking under neath my chassis I see the wrapped the cables around the pipe about 9 times.

May I kindly ask that you include a picture I can use a reference for cutting the cable to shorten it?

Thanks in advance!

rob

[imerp1]

I had the same problem and shortened the cables but did not fully remove
I cut the grey pipe close to the junction end and removed about 1/4 inch pipe and purchased a flexible sleeve and slid on and tightened with hose clamps.
It appeared the grey/black manifold was to tight when installed and compressed the valves and gaskets. Was very tight prior to cutting out pipe. Problem resolved. I did this on my sun seeker about 5 years ago and has been great since then. Prior to doing this the repair shop attempted a fix under warranty twice but it did not work. Maybe FR have fixed that problem by now!!!

[tomkatb]

We carry a 12’ cable as a spare. Mine are actually 8’

They are not real hard to remove and replace.

You shorten them just like a bile.

Remove the cable. Cleanly cut the sheath. Clean up the end as necessary.

Replace the cable. Cut the correct length. Assumes you measured before removal.

I used my can of spray lock lubricant before, graphite plus a carrier, before replacing the cable. Fill up the sheath. My cable moves really well now. Better than new.

[ForrestG2252]

I appear to be victim of the same valve/cable issues on my MBS2401B 2022. the black does not appear to close completely. For the second time, the waste begins flowing upon removal of the waste drain cap! I am still under warranty and will be calling the dealer tomorrow. When you shortened your cables, did you replace them entirely? Or cut to reduce the length? Did you reroute them in any new configuration.

Thanks for any info or pics of how you rerouted/shortened.

[bob213]

Originally Posted by Dave S

I have the same problem on my 2018 Sunseeker MBs. Drilled a hole in the gate valve as seen on utube and sprayed lubricant.

I watched a YouTube video that showed how to do this. BUT the poster said to use "white lithium grease". I did and the next campout I had gate vales that felt like they had been glued shut with super glue. Had to replace them all. DON'T use a petroleum product to grease them!!!

[ForrestG2252]

Originally Posted by bob213

I watched a YouTube video that showed how to do this. BUT the poster said to use "white lithium grease". I did and the next campout I had gate vales that felt like they had been glued shut with super glue. Had to replace them all. DON'T use a petroleum product to grease them!!!

Thanks! Found a Camco secondary valve I will add to end cap. Also will take for warranty repair.

[OREddie]

A nightmare, for sure. I had my go-to repair shop fix my black water valve. I couldn't close it at all. They shortened both gray and black tank cables and they have worked for 2 years. But they are still really stiff.

I came across this product at my local shop while there to purchase antifreeze. I intend to try it out next Spring. It goes into the black and gray water tanks after they've been drained. For the black water tank, one pours it in and then sets it up with enzymes or whatever as usual. I use an odor product for the gray tank as well so same process.

I'll report back if I find it improves the operation of the valves.

[OREddie]

It doesn't appear that the URL I used to post photos worked. I don't see it in my message.

Trying again

[OREddie]

It is Thetford Drain Valve lubricant. Can't get the pics to show.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by OREddie

It is Thetford Drain Valve lubricant. Can't get the pics to show.

This?...