Winterizing the MBS2400 (2017 in my case)

[ipolyihh]

[QUOTE=BluStreek;1654147]I may opt not to use the RV antifreeze in the water system (just the drains/traps)

I've done the air pump purging, and while doing the RV antifreeze fill of the lines using the "Winterize" valve have actually seen clear water before the pink at places like the toilet, the shower head, and the exterior water line.

After the RV antifreeze purge is finished I open/close the low point drain plugs to allow the system to partially drain. This gets rid of any residual water still in those low point drain line sections.

[Petersb]

You didn’t mention removing the water filter canister and dumping that

[ipolyihh]

Originally Posted by Petersb

You didn’t mention removing the water filter canister and dumping that

that I'm saving for when I start the de-winterizing next year

new water filter after 2nd clean water flush of system:
"city water" connect at home, open/close all faucets etc., open/close low point drains after 2nd flush, also do water heater steps at that point

one more flush to allow water heater tank to fill and then fill fresh water tank

[BluStreek]

...On the F-R Sunseeker brochure pages, not specifically the MBS2400W/WS but solves the Water Heater bypass valve question, too.

Pump, winterizing tube (capped), and stuff that ought to be to the left of the winterizing toggle valve under the 2400W shower.

[BluStreek]

I blew out my system and with the hot water tap open in the kitchen sink using my hand, the air hose, and faucet spout blew back some of the water in the water heater. Sounded like it went back into the fresh water tank. Low, low pressure (a hand held and therefore a leaky 20psi). This was done this past weekend. Today, I opened the drain on the water heater using a small adjustable as clearance for a socket was nigh well impossible, it came out easily, and was 7/8" in my case (a plastic plug).

The water heater did not shed a drop, so my air purging must have worked well. Remember, I want to use the rig in about 8 weeks and didn't want to go through a major to do. So far so good...

I then added (from Amazon) a Camco 11533 Anode Rod with Drain for Aluminum Water Heater



I gave the plug threads two wraps of teflon tape and tightened it gently (not too much torque so as to not strip the aluminum tank). It barely (!) fit with a bit of jiggling to get it to fully enter the tank for thread engagement. The burner assembly was in the way but hand starting the plug/rod was easy enough once in deep enough, and the adjustable wrench did the final torquing in several incremental passes of about 15 degrees each try.

This anode/plug assembly needs a 13/16" wrench to seat if you are not using an adjustable. A 7/8" may or may not work...

I finger tightened the petcock as the CAMCO petcock wrench I bought was useless with the burner tube in the way. I will need to check for leak integrity once I activate the MBS2400WS for duty around Christmas time.

After returning from that outing, I will use the pump/WH drain and bypass/non-toxic antifreeze fill process for the deeper January/February/March winter that follows, I think. That uses the under shower pan Winterizing valve and pick up tube as discussed by others elsewhere.

Heck, this rigamarole makes moving to Florida look easier!

ps. and fyi... this wrench did not work for me for petcock tightening...
Camco 11653 Water Heater Drain Valve Wrench

Save

[JoeSteiner]

I've got a sunseeker 2400R on the MBS chassis. This is what I did to winterize. Took about an hour.
I have a 2015 sunseeker 2400R on the mercedes sprinter chassis.
I just winterized it and thought I would offer my process up to anyone that is interested.
First, I opened all the faucets and the water fill plug.*
I then drained the freshwater tank, the valve is next to water pump in the left rear compartment, behind the black door.* I let the tank drain completely then closed the valve when empty.**
I unscrewed the fitting on the right side of the water pump (non vacuum side) and let it drain, I reconnected when empty.* The left side fitting didn’t seem to have any water backed up.
I drained the hot water tank by removing the plug with a plumbing socket.* I replaced the plug when empty.
I ran an air hose to my unit set at 30PSI with a fitting that fit into the city water fill and blew out the water lines with compressed air.* Blew out the kitchen, vanity, shower, toilet, toilet sprayer and outside shower line with compressed air in that order.* The kitchen faucet took a lot of time, figured it was blowing out the water filter (which it was)
Then I opened up the outside low point drains located just behind the step and blew those out one at a time.
I disconnected the shower hose, and let the shower head hang down straight
When I went to remove the water filter canister, it was empty.* Figured the compressed air on the kitchen blowout removed all the water.* I left the canister in the vanity sink to prevent freezing of the threads
I poured about one cup of antifreeze in every drain trap, kitchen, vanity and shower.
Then I emptied both of the waste tanks
Best I can tell, I’m ready for winter.* If anyone knows of anything I missed, please advise.

[BluStreek]

Thanks Joe.

Model differences make the locations of some of the things different but the process is the same R vs. the W or WS

Nicely compiled!

[OREddie]

I have owned 3 Sprinter based RVs since 2005 and each had a different system for winterizing. I'm about to start the process on our new Forester 2401WS and plan to photograph and document each step, and misstep, I make and share here.

Thus far I've removed a panel beneath the shower pan and found the water pump and a white hose, similar to standard drinking water hose, capped at the end. Immediately to the right of that panel there's a valve labeled B&B and has normal and winterize positions.

Assumptions: The valve is the hot water bypass and the hose should be placed inside antifreeze container and pumped through the system by turning faucets on one at a time until I get the pink.

Under the rig just forward of the rear bumper is a 5" screw onoff plate where a fresh water tank drain is located. Of course the hot water heater must be drained as well. I've yet to figure out where the low point drain is.

Am I on the right track?

Ed
2017 Forester 2401WS MBS

Am I on the right track?

[BluStreek]

HI Oreddie,

I think the low point drains are the two capped tubes in the back inside the access cover. The valve for the fresh water tank drain dumps just outside the access cover. I uncapped and drained both tubes, but make sure your kitchen sink and bathroom faucets (hot and cold) are open, and open the flush spray and work the foot pedal a few times to get the trapped water to flow out the low points. Much of the hot water tank may actually siphon out with the low water drain cap removed. BUT (!!!) double check at the HW tank.

I do think the HW Heater bypass is under the shower by the HW tube as you surmise in the under shower pan access area there.

A doc would be great. I'm going to do an Excel type checklist for my rig.

Also remove anything in the medicine cabinet, pantry, closet, cabinets, drawers, and outside storage bins, etc... that does not tolerate freezing! Canned goods, medicines, some cleaners, food, etc... We're boxing up (labelled RV) most of this and storing in a warm garage to simplify restocking on RV use.

[OREddie]

After reading BluStreek's post I returned to the fresh water tank drain valve compartment and found two white hoses tucked above the drain valve hose. With a few gentle tugs I had the low point drain hoses exposed!

I was looking for something entirely different and likely never would have found without the help.

[OREddie]

My hot water heater is below the stove so I removed a cabinet panel held by 4 screws. I found blue (cold) water line going into the bottom of the heater with an open in-line valve. T'd from that same line is a blue vertical pipe section turning to red pipe after a closed in-line valve. The red portion of the pipe T's again, one section going into the top of the hot water heater and the other disappearing around the opposite corner. Sorry for the verbose description - pictures soon, I promise.

I guess I'll take the risk that reversing the current positions of these valves is the hot water bypass procedure.

Regarding the 2 position valve (Normal/Winterize) attached to the outside of the shower pan I read a post to a different sub-forum that when it's in the Winterize position one can pump antifreeze through the city water connection. I'm going to move the valve to Winterize and see if I can pump AF by operating the water pump with the hose next to the water pump submerged in a bottle of antifreeze.

Ed
'17 Forester 2401WS MBS

[BluStreek]

Ditto my knowing about the water heater bypass, the winterizing toggle valve and access panel. Other things and process, too. Great resource,

Thanks to all!

[ipolyihh]

Originally Posted by OREddie

Regarding the 2 position valve (Normal/Winterize) attached to the outside of the shower pan I read a post to a different sub-forum that when it's in the Winterize position one can pump antifreeze through the city water connection. I'm going to move the valve to Winterize and see if I can pump AF by operating the water pump with the hose next to the water pump submerged in a bottle of antifreeze.

that's the way to do it ( in my 24S at least there is a long hose going to that Winterize valve that seems to have no other purpose )

open/close all the faucets one at a time, remember toilet flush & outside water line

also after pump is off open/close the 2 low point drains